Rolls

DIY wiring verdict: Well after a couple of months of intermittent wiring work I’ve decided to bin the loom. upon checking my work, I have found a couple of cold soldier connections and consequently, I’ve lost confidence in the caliber of my work across the project.. I regret not buying a new loom in the first place. I’ve spent a couple of hundred dollars on parts and a lot of hours. At least I’ve learnt a lot per above. Could a forum member confirm that S&J’s loom is up to snuff? Appears to be good value at $980 AUD. I read @vintaylor post from 2016 which gives some interesting insights.

Which groups are you following @Fridge?

I agree with your comments Dave. I’ve had a play with different grades of media from my cabinet tonight and mixed it with thick gearbox oil. Surely blast media is not enough to block a hot passage that’s under pressure? Fascinating topic Fabian. I admire your calm approach. I would need therapy.

Wiring; I’m intermittently working on the loom when the opportunity arises. I’ve picked up some tips from @Lotusfab Bearing in mind I’m a wiring novice, I have learn’t the following: - invest in a quality ratchet crimping tool + a power wire stripper. Saves a lot of time & they cost peanuts - don’t use yum cha spade connectors from eBay - I’ve soldered every connector. The next owner will enjoy the benefit. Something I learned - add the smallest of dots of solder to the tip of the Iron. It helps conduct the heat more efficiently (this is after you have tinned the tip) - do not use a flux paste. The chlorides are too strong and may cause an issue long term. Use the self fluxing wire instead - do not use lead free solder - what were they thinking! - shrink wrap all connections - use a ballpoint pen for your tags. Ink pens (artline in my case) run if they get moist. Another rookie mistake. - tags. I use removable ones on string like in antique shops. Much more convenient than masking - use quality heat shrink solder connectors for all joints. They have solder that melts when you apply heat. They are easy to use and a much safer option - to help the wires make their way down the plastic conduit tubes (doors etc), use a dry spray lubricant. The ones for the mirrors are 2m long. - watch out for bullet connectors. It’s very easy to create a cold solder - don’t use electrical tape on your loom. Use Tesa loom tape. Much better finish and doesn’t leave a sticky residue - I’d recommend pinning your loom to a plywood sheet to make it easier to follow what goes where ....question for the day.... my existing relays are 30amps? Sounds like a lot. Does anyone know the correct ratings for each circuit? Or where can I find the answer? cheers

That is exceptional. Well done. For the benefit of all, do you mind sharing which components are leather and vinyl?

Your post highlights how lucky we are to have this forum. The collective knowledge of all is invaluable. Frankly, I could not restore my car without everyone’s assistance. This one issue alone will save many of us a lot of headaches. And money! Wouldn’t it be great if we could get even more input from people like Mike?

Thanks for the feedback. Another quick question. The doors have these small plates riveted into the corners. Any idea if they are original / what they are for?

Won’t be cutting any corners. All replaced thanks to Matt! Thanks for the replies. Satin black it is

Door beams: I can’t work out whether the inner section of the door beam that one sees when the door is open, is satin or gloss black. I assume it’s satin? S2.

Just keep methodically plowing through the work. It will be worth it in the end. Onwards and upwards Fabian.

A very sad time for Australia at the moment. We have endured unprecedented devastation attributed to bush fires. 100,000’s of animals have perished. Towns obliterated. Homes lost. It’s tragic. An area larger than Belgium has already been decimated and the fires are expected to burn until the end of our summer. Some fronts have joined and created mega-fires. These “mega fires” are so large they are creating their own weather systems including lightening which causes further havoc. The Eastern seaboard of our country has been cloaked in ash and smoke - the air quality in large swathes of area have been deemed hazardous. I’ve never seen anything like it. And the fire season hasn’t even started yet!! If you would like to make a donation here is a link: https://www.vic.gov.au/bushfireappeal

Sound deadener: I have almost finished applying the body deadener. I ended up using Dynamat Extreme. Unfortunately one box is not enough. An esprit requires 1 & 1/4. I have therefore spent $540 aud (£270) on the two boxes. If I had my time again, I would have used a more economical brand because I believe the outcome would have been just as effective. I’m debating as to whether or not I should install a roof section... would it remain glued upside down given the heat that a black body attracts the other option would be to install small squares of the product patchworked over the area (inch x inch). Looks great!

Mission complete... albeit 5 years later. I was sceptical about the black but now that the inks is on I’m delighted. I’m very luck to have Glen doing the honours with the gun

The final push before Xmas. There’s even an art to masking a car properly... learn’t a lot from Glen who has taken on the mammoth task of painting. Given the wheel-wells will be full gloss I should have put the car on a rotisserie as it will be very difficult to get a gun in there. I know it’s not original but given you can see so much of the area I believe it will look good.

Thanks. Prepsoled tonight for final checks. Lots of small sections that need some 800 finessing. The booth is booked for a major service. Providing that's done Friday it should be right for shooting Saturday. It will mean that the filters will be fresh etc. Painter reckons it's a good 10 hour day just for the body Going to do the panels in Jan. Onwards and upwards!