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Geeman

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  • Name
    Gordon
  • Car
    1984 Turbo Esprit
  • Location
    Charleston, SC, USA

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  1. As part of my 1984 Turbo recommission I removed the exhaust cam carrier to reseal it due to an oil leak between the carrier and head. I had checked and measured the valve clearances, all good. All the valve shims were engraved with their values and I noted them. Through a small series of stupid fumbles (don't ask) I had 3 of the cam buckets fall out of the carrier and one shim has gone AWOL somewhere in my garage. I have no idea which bucket came out of which valve.......What are your suggestions on how best to resolve this? I know it's not good practice to mix buckets/followers with different valves & cam lobes as they have bedded in to each other over time. The engine has done about 70,000 and everything is looking very clean in the engine so far. 1) Buy 3 NEW buckets and shims to replace the ones that fell out 2) Just put the buckets back regardless and hope for the best 3) I know I need to re-measure the valve clearances and figure out what shim to buy to replace the lost one I am kicking myself for this stupid mistake......
  2. My US spec '84 Turbo presented me with this exploded release bearing. It appears the bearing came away from the centering tube it should be fitted too. It's only held on by that sheetmetal ring that has tabs pressed around the tube flange. I have no idea why it exploded like that but the rest of the system is OK. Spigot bearing is good, albeit pushed back maybe 2mm from the crankshaft face, the nylatron thrust washer is still in place on the input shaft, the input shaft is in place by the circlip (I think the previous owner upgraded that). The retaining clips for the release bearing to the fork had come off and only one was in the bottom of the bellhousing. I have a complete new clutch kit coming from a UK supplier, including hydraulics. Any thoughts on what could have caused this? I am also getting the flywheel re-faced. Question on this...there is no step to be machined on the flywheel? Its a straight flat surface across its face? I have read that its the Renault gearbox that requires a 0.5mm step, correct?
  3. I've been having some signing in and posting issues and am working with the Mods to try and sort it out. Now on a different computer. Anyway, I have set up this Shutterfly share site with photos to date of the prep to remove the engine. For the UK G Turbo owners, be aware the US spec cars seem to be very different with the emissions stuff etc. For example, according to the SJ Sportcars parts information, by 1984 car has what appears to be the 1987 on cooling system design. I'll try to keep posting photos and updating. https://1984espritrecommission.shutterfly.com/pictures Anyone following, please let me know the link works OK to view the photos.
  4. I am in the same boat as you and I am trying to get a recommissioning thread going in the Resto blog section. I have a 1984 US spec Turbo I am about to recommission that I haven't started for about 5 years. I am almost ready to pull the engine (everything is disconnected) and gearbox together. I am doing all belts, hoses (coolant and fuel), gaskets where needed, filters, a thorough clean/degrease, checking the clutch, new exhaust shields etc. I just placed a big order with SJ to the tune of about 1,500 GBP in parts (plus a chunk for postage to the USA). I am doing all the work myself. Engine has about 70k I think. There are no signs under the car of oil leaks so I don't want to disturb main oil seals etc. The plan is to recommission, drive and enjoy for a couple of years and see where we are then.
  5. I am guilty of letting my 1984 US Spec Turbo sit for nearly 5 years in my garage. I took it off the the road in late 2016 because something was sounding iffy with the clutch mechanism making a graunching sound when I depressed the pedal. Then you know....life..... The car has been in my garage under cover since then. This summer I decided it was time to get it back on the road. The is generally in good driver condition with around 70k miles and seems mostly original and unmolested. Everything worked when I stopped driving it. So, I thought I would start a thread on my recommissioning of the car. The plan is as follows : Remove engine and gearbox Clean the engine bay area New cooling and fuel hoses New cambelt, aux belts Gaskets where needed New vacuum lines Inspect the clutch and remedy what I find New hardware/fasteners where needed New rear discs Remove and flush the petrol tanks Brake flush and check etc. And whatever else I find..... I have in my garage a portable 2 post lift, engine hoist, chain hoist, plenty of room and enough experience to be dangerous. (Other cars include a 1992 TVR Griffith...changed the camshaft in that; Reliant Scimitar.....similar recommission on that; TR6 engine rebuild and running gear rebuild; Daimler SP250....engine and running gear rebuild and years of British classic maintenance. I'll try and keep the photos of progress coming to hopefully help others who venture down this path, and in return I'll be lobbing out a few questions along the way. First up, the working space.
  6. I am about to replace all the fuel hoses on my 1984 US spec (carb) Turbo. Is the textured hose type in the photo still available? Otherwise I am thinking something like this cloth braided hose. https://www.belmetric.com/multifuel-hoseethanol-approved-c-14_662/rhm5braid-flennor-multifuel-hose-5mm-braided-foot-p-17451.html?zenid=hn7rf01c2rg9u5mid60oj42pj4 or alternatively a Gates Barricade (TM) https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/fuel-line-hose.p.4219-000000-000001.html Any other recommendations?
  7. I need to remove the rear calipers on my 1984 US spec Turbo because I am lifting the engine out as part of a recommissioning of the car. Do I need to disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper in order to disconnect the caliper from the rear axle or can I leave the cable connected? Photo below of the right side rear caliper. From this thread I am being a bit dumb (American) and not following how to disconnect the cable....
  8. I am starting the recommissioning of my 1984 Turbo Esprit (US Spec) and pulling the engine for a thorough going over. When I disconnected the flexible gear linkage cable it was secured by a retaining loop that was attached to a sump bolt. The bolt undid but stopped at a certain point. I persevered gently and the bolt came out. However, I noticed a brown sleeve part way down the thread of the bolt. I have never seen this before. Can anyone explain what this is sleeve is about? I am hoping I have not done anything wrong.
  9. Great, thanks for that clarification.
  10. 1984 Turbo Esprit, US spec. My Esprit has sat for too long, about 5 years due to what I think is a bad clutch issue (when I press the pedal I would hear a sort of "graunching" should but from the pedal area, not the gearbox end). Other projects just got in the way. Anyway, I am now ready to tackle this and of course several other things will need looking at so I am thinking of pulling the engine and gearbox out together and going through everything, like belts, any suspect gaskets, seals etc. I have the Lotus service manual but nowhere in it can I find information on removing the driveshafts to lift out the engine. I have searched this and other forums and found there are a few ways to separate the driveshafts. I am fairly handy with the spanners and have tackled engine out and rebuilds on several other classics, but the Esprit seems to be a unique beast and I am little nervous. I'd like the least invasive if that's possible recommendation on the driveshaft removal please. Thanks in advance.
  11. Geeman

    Geeman

  12. Hi Dean Try look around this website for some hints and tips. http://www.autogeek.net/ Yes, its American based. I would certainly recommend using a clay bar with the detail spray. First time I used a clay bar I was amazed at the difference. You might want to consider a couple of grades of polish to tackle it in stages. I find Meguires and Griot good products. I had a black Jaguar XJS before my Esprit and I used a black polish and wax system, and it was good, Meguires I think, something to consider. I have one of the 3" and 6" Griot orbital polishers and they are great. You don't have to push hard with them at all. Even gentle approach seems to work. I do the main large areas with the polisher and by hand in the details. The products today are soooo much better than the old T-Cut and Turtle Wax days. I'm originally from the UK, but live in the US now. The American's LOVE their car detailing. Try Youtube too for hints and tips. If you have a leather interior, then I highly recommend a product called Leatherique. I have used it on my XJS and Esprit, nice stuff. Post some before and after pics.
  13. I set the fuel pressure regulator per the service manual to 4-4.5psi with the ignition on but the engine not running. I have test driven the car and it feels 'flat' on hard acceleration (I did post about this on the Lotus Esprit FB page). The car is getting boost, well at least the boost gauge shows full boost under hard accel and I hear a whooshing nice in my right ear. The car takes off but it seems to lack the thrust I think it had before. Now, I have attached snippets of the service manual and I think I see a discrepancy in the notes, perhaps you can concur? In the fuel system General Description (USA cars) section it says the fuel pressure is set to be 4-4.5 psi under light load conditions. In the later section about the fuel pressure regulator it says to set the regulator pressure to 4-4.5 psi with the ignition on only. Then it says run the engine and make sure the pressure is under 3.5psi. When my engine is idling its reading about 1.5psi. If you snap the throttle open it runs up to 4-5 psi. So, my question is should the idling pressure be set to 4-4.5 psi or the ignition on only be set to 4-4.5 psi?
  14. @jcslocumJon, slight thread highjack, but how long did it take you to remove the carbs on your car? Big pain in the a** or just a slow process?
  15. This weekend I had a look at things. I found the idle jacking solenoid mounted at the front of the air box on the carbs. All connections look good. Started the car and warmed it up. Then turned the ac on, and well, guess what, the high idle kicked in again. I pulled the connectors on and off a couple of times and maybe that cleaned them a bit. Anyway, problem fixed. I also found out that SJ does these solenoids still and perform about 3 tasks.
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