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    1984 Turbo Esprit
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    Charleston, SC, USA

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  1. The washer bottle on my '84 Turbo was leaking. Previous owner has added some fibreglass matting but it didn't hold up (its split down the groove where is slides onto its retaining bracket) . I bought a new complete washer bottle incl. washer motor from SJ. When I went to fit it, I found the end of the washer motor interferes with the headlamp motor. (see yellow arrow in the photo) I placed the old and new bottle side by side and found the new washer bottle is a little wider and the washer motor longer. I am thinking about swapping the motors over, but some gentle prying won't seem to free the motor from the bottle. Anyone had this before and know how to remove the washer motor without damage?
  2. Thanks for the pointers. I have been tracing everything and checked the vacuum. The car has a good vacuum to the controls. The rotary controls have good movement, the fresh air/recirc flap in the front works. The mechanical linkages to the windscreen vent flap work. I am not sure about the footwell flap yet. Nearly then, so will persevere. New question. The HVAC system has been converted to R134a by a previous owner. During the 5 year 'rest' the gas has made a run for it. I want to get it recharged to see if it will hold. Does anyone know the amount of R134a and PAG oil(/?) the system needs compared to the original R12 charge?
  3. I am now looking at doing this very same thing. I am hoping to ditch the air pump hub (53), spindle (50) and specific endcap (55) and replace with the fully enclosed endcap (16). I am not sure how best to check the endfloat with the engine in the car. How do you lever the camshaft back and forth to measure the endfloat, and without the endcap fitted what is to stop the camshaft pushing forward? The thrust washers have completely different part numbers one for with air pump, the other without.
  4. I'm just following up to say I managed to replace both the choke and throttle cable complete at the weekend. I removed most of the transmission tunnel trim which wasn't too bad. I tackled the choke cable first. On the US spec cars the choke pull knob comes out around knee level to the right of the steering wheel. I duct/gaffa tapped a length of vinyl hose tot he old cable and gently pulled it part way through the rear bulkhead, then cut the old cable off and attached the new cable and pulled it back through into the engine bay. Routing it in the engine bay wasn't particularly difficult. The throttle cable was similarly done but the bulkhead grommet held the cable very tightly. I ended up having to push the grommet through into the engine bay and retrieved it then passed the new throttle cable through. I used a new grommet I had in my stash of odds and ends that was a perfect fit. Somewhat annoyingly the new choke cable had a slightly larger ferrule (?) crimped on the carb end. I had to very slightly drill out the bracket mounted on the carb to accept the ferrule that the lock screw nips up on. And the new throttle cable didn't have the crimped on ferrule on the carb end so I had to use a screw on trunnion which gets close to the return spring. Anyway, job done and thanks for the input.
  5. After a 5 year 'rest' I have just recommissioned by 1984 US spec Turbo, but the HVAC system isn't playing ball. I have the 3 speed fan working. The 2 large rotary controls turn, but they don't seem to make any of the distribution flaps work or the heater valve. I haven't dived into things just yet, but I am asking for a few pointers on troubleshooting. I am assuming I can test the vacuum supply with a vacuum gauge? On the US spec cars I believe the vacuum is provided from a belt driven pump on the front of the engine, correct? Does the vacuum line from this pump go down the centre of the car and supply the HVAC controls? I am also going to assume that access is a pain to these components? There is no vacuum reservoir? Thank you
  6. Thanks. My car is LHD US spec and the throttle cable is on the other side of the engine bay. The choke cable does run through the hole you show though. I'll need to look into hw to remove the centre console trim I guess.
  7. Is it even possible to replace the outer throttle cable sleeve in the car? I am reading a lot where owners just slide a new inner cable through the old sleeve. The sleeve in my car is a bit shabby so I am wanting to replace the whole thing.
  8. Another update. Headlights and pods are working fine. High beams too. New relay fitted to the headlight pop up flash and it seems to be working. I need a second opinion on how the headlight flash should function. If I pull the indicator stalk back towards me and immediately release the stalk the pods come up then go back down and the high beam does not come on. If I pull back the stalk and hold it, then the pods stay up and the high beam stays on until I release the switch then the high beam goes out and the pods close. Is this correct? the drivers handbook doesn't even mention this feature. Indicators/Hazards. I think I have found the issue. It seems to be the flasher unit to the right of the fuses. If I turn on the hazards and they don't work, then wiggle the flasher unit and hold it's position, then the hazards work properly. I have sprayed some contact cleaner into the flasher unit socket. I have a new flasher unit on order, so I hoping this will sort it. Otherwise it sounds like the flasher unit base is loose somehow.
  9. I'll give the switch a more thorough clean. I'm a bit nervous trying to take it apart in case it breaks.
  10. Photo of the driver (LHD) door light and seatbelt switch as requested. Oh, started the car up today and the indicators and hazards are working again and neither is the headlight pop up flash. (eyes rolling). If I switch on the indicators I might get one flash then they stop, likewise hazards. I will also check the relay I bought for the headlight flash. Always something.
  11. Good news. I cleaned the switches in the dash and everything is working. I found out that the headlight flash pop up relay was bad too. I say everything, the red door lights aren’t working. I looked at the switches for those, but how to you get to them behind the lower crash pad? Thanks for your inputs btw. 👍🏼
  12. Thanks for the input so far. My car has the blade type fuse panel. This evening I pulled out each relay in turn and all the spades are perfectly clean, no corrosion signs at all. I am sure all the components are correct as everything worked when the car last ran. After a bit of Googling my suspicion is with the light and hazard switch. I have the service manual with the wiring details and it seems that the systems that are not working all go through those two switches. Apparently US spec cars had a lot of wiring and switching differences to UK/ROW cars so that adds to the mix. I went to remove the instrument binnacle side panels that hold the light and hazard switch, but the rear side of each panel is pop riveted rather than screwed in place.....and I just lent my drill to someone today... It seems that the hazard and light switch are prone to breaking and NLA so fingers crossed it may be dirty contacts in them and some electrical contact spray cleaner will work. I'll report back when I get it all working.
  13. I've just got my US spec '84 Turbo running after a 5 year 'slumber' in my garage. It was an engine out major service, new fuel, coolant hoses etc, clutch, belt. I've started it and its running so I checked all the electrics. The following are working: Sidelights, horn, instrument lights, wiper, clock, mainbeam flash (no pop up though), heated rear window, door windows, blower motor, brake lights, number plate lights The following are NOT working: Headlights, indicators, hazards, door lights (red in the door), interior light when the door opens, headlight flash pop up function. I only removed and replaced the ground/earth cable from the engine to the chassis (via the engine mount). I started going through some of the connections in the front, cleaning them and checking tightness etc, but no luck yet. I checked fuses for the headlights and they were good. I haven't checked the relays yet. Any thoughts? Electrics aren't my favourite to work on. Any grounds/earths I can check?
  14. Hi, I have a US spec '84. I have just refitted the engine and have it wide open with all the vacuum lines to show. I have each one marked up as I disconnected them. I am happy to take photos but for some reason I have little success posting them on here but I will try. Alternatively send me a PM if its possible through here.
  15. As part of my 1984 Turbo recommission I removed the exhaust cam carrier to reseal it due to an oil leak between the carrier and head. I had checked and measured the valve clearances, all good. All the valve shims were engraved with their values and I noted them. Through a small series of stupid fumbles (don't ask) I had 3 of the cam buckets fall out of the carrier and one shim has gone AWOL somewhere in my garage. I have no idea which bucket came out of which valve.......What are your suggestions on how best to resolve this? I know it's not good practice to mix buckets/followers with different valves & cam lobes as they have bedded in to each other over time. The engine has done about 70,000 and everything is looking very clean in the engine so far. 1) Buy 3 NEW buckets and shims to replace the ones that fell out 2) Just put the buckets back regardless and hope for the best 3) I know I need to re-measure the valve clearances and figure out what shim to buy to replace the lost one I am kicking myself for this stupid mistake......
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