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  1. After a 5 year 'rest' I have just recommissioned by 1984 US spec Turbo, but the HVAC system isn't playing ball. I have the 3 speed fan working. The 2 large rotary controls turn, but they don't seem to make any of the distribution flaps work or the heater valve. I haven't dived into things just yet, but I am asking for a few pointers on troubleshooting. I am assuming I can test the vacuum supply with a vacuum gauge? On the US spec cars I believe the vacuum is provided from a belt driven pump on the front of the engine, correct? Does the vacuum line from this pump go down the centre of the car and supply the HVAC controls? I am also going to assume that access is a pain to these components? There is no vacuum reservoir? Thank you
  2. Thanks. My car is LHD US spec and the throttle cable is on the other side of the engine bay. The choke cable does run through the hole you show though. I'll need to look into hw to remove the centre console trim I guess.
  3. Is it even possible to replace the outer throttle cable sleeve in the car? I am reading a lot where owners just slide a new inner cable through the old sleeve. The sleeve in my car is a bit shabby so I am wanting to replace the whole thing.
  4. Another update. Headlights and pods are working fine. High beams too. New relay fitted to the headlight pop up flash and it seems to be working. I need a second opinion on how the headlight flash should function. If I pull the indicator stalk back towards me and immediately release the stalk the pods come up then go back down and the high beam does not come on. If I pull back the stalk and hold it, then the pods stay up and the high beam stays on until I release the switch then the high beam goes out and the pods close. Is this correct? the drivers handbook doesn't even mention this feature. Indicators/Hazards. I think I have found the issue. It seems to be the flasher unit to the right of the fuses. If I turn on the hazards and they don't work, then wiggle the flasher unit and hold it's position, then the hazards work properly. I have sprayed some contact cleaner into the flasher unit socket. I have a new flasher unit on order, so I hoping this will sort it. Otherwise it sounds like the flasher unit base is loose somehow.
  5. I'll give the switch a more thorough clean. I'm a bit nervous trying to take it apart in case it breaks.
  6. Photo of the driver (LHD) door light and seatbelt switch as requested. Oh, started the car up today and the indicators and hazards are working again and neither is the headlight pop up flash. (eyes rolling). If I switch on the indicators I might get one flash then they stop, likewise hazards. I will also check the relay I bought for the headlight flash. Always something.
  7. Good news. I cleaned the switches in the dash and everything is working. I found out that the headlight flash pop up relay was bad too. I say everything, the red door lights aren’t working. I looked at the switches for those, but how to you get to them behind the lower crash pad? Thanks for your inputs btw. 👍🏼
  8. Thanks for the input so far. My car has the blade type fuse panel. This evening I pulled out each relay in turn and all the spades are perfectly clean, no corrosion signs at all. I am sure all the components are correct as everything worked when the car last ran. After a bit of Googling my suspicion is with the light and hazard switch. I have the service manual with the wiring details and it seems that the systems that are not working all go through those two switches. Apparently US spec cars had a lot of wiring and switching differences to UK/ROW cars so that adds to the mix. I went to remove the instrument binnacle side panels that hold the light and hazard switch, but the rear side of each panel is pop riveted rather than screwed in place.....and I just lent my drill to someone today... It seems that the hazard and light switch are prone to breaking and NLA so fingers crossed it may be dirty contacts in them and some electrical contact spray cleaner will work. I'll report back when I get it all working.
  9. I've just got my US spec '84 Turbo running after a 5 year 'slumber' in my garage. It was an engine out major service, new fuel, coolant hoses etc, clutch, belt. I've started it and its running so I checked all the electrics. The following are working: Sidelights, horn, instrument lights, wiper, clock, mainbeam flash (no pop up though), heated rear window, door windows, blower motor, brake lights, number plate lights The following are NOT working: Headlights, indicators, hazards, door lights (red in the door), interior light when the door opens, headlight flash pop up function. I only removed and replaced the ground/earth cable from the engine to the chassis (via the engine mount). I started going through some of the connections in the front, cleaning them and checking tightness etc, but no luck yet. I checked fuses for the headlights and they were good. I haven't checked the relays yet. Any thoughts? Electrics aren't my favourite to work on. Any grounds/earths I can check?
  10. Hi, I have a US spec '84. I have just refitted the engine and have it wide open with all the vacuum lines to show. I have each one marked up as I disconnected them. I am happy to take photos but for some reason I have little success posting them on here but I will try. Alternatively send me a PM if its possible through here.
  11. As part of my 1984 Turbo recommission I removed the exhaust cam carrier to reseal it due to an oil leak between the carrier and head. I had checked and measured the valve clearances, all good. All the valve shims were engraved with their values and I noted them. Through a small series of stupid fumbles (don't ask) I had 3 of the cam buckets fall out of the carrier and one shim has gone AWOL somewhere in my garage. I have no idea which bucket came out of which valve.......What are your suggestions on how best to resolve this? I know it's not good practice to mix buckets/followers with different valves & cam lobes as they have bedded in to each other over time. The engine has done about 70,000 and everything is looking very clean in the engine so far. 1) Buy 3 NEW buckets and shims to replace the ones that fell out 2) Just put the buckets back regardless and hope for the best 3) I know I need to re-measure the valve clearances and figure out what shim to buy to replace the lost one I am kicking myself for this stupid mistake......
  12. My US spec '84 Turbo presented me with this exploded release bearing. It appears the bearing came away from the centering tube it should be fitted too. It's only held on by that sheetmetal ring that has tabs pressed around the tube flange. I have no idea why it exploded like that but the rest of the system is OK. Spigot bearing is good, albeit pushed back maybe 2mm from the crankshaft face, the nylatron thrust washer is still in place on the input shaft, the input shaft is in place by the circlip (I think the previous owner upgraded that). The retaining clips for the release bearing to the fork had come off and only one was in the bottom of the bellhousing. I have a complete new clutch kit coming from a UK supplier, including hydraulics. Any thoughts on what could have caused this? I am also getting the flywheel re-faced. Question on this...there is no step to be machined on the flywheel? Its a straight flat surface across its face? I have read that its the Renault gearbox that requires a 0.5mm step, correct?
  13. I've been having some signing in and posting issues and am working with the Mods to try and sort it out. Now on a different computer. Anyway, I have set up this Shutterfly share site with photos to date of the prep to remove the engine. For the UK G Turbo owners, be aware the US spec cars seem to be very different with the emissions stuff etc. For example, according to the SJ Sportcars parts information, by 1984 car has what appears to be the 1987 on cooling system design. I'll try to keep posting photos and updating. Anyone following, please let me know the link works OK to view the photos.
  14. I am in the same boat as you and I am trying to get a recommissioning thread going in the Resto blog section. I have a 1984 US spec Turbo I am about to recommission that I haven't started for about 5 years. I am almost ready to pull the engine (everything is disconnected) and gearbox together. I am doing all belts, hoses (coolant and fuel), gaskets where needed, filters, a thorough clean/degrease, checking the clutch, new exhaust shields etc. I just placed a big order with SJ to the tune of about 1,500 GBP in parts (plus a chunk for postage to the USA). I am doing all the work myself. Engine has about 70k I think. There are no signs under the car of oil leaks so I don't want to disturb main oil seals etc. The plan is to recommission, drive and enjoy for a couple of years and see where we are then.
  15. I am guilty of letting my 1984 US Spec Turbo sit for nearly 5 years in my garage. I took it off the the road in late 2016 because something was sounding iffy with the clutch mechanism making a graunching sound when I depressed the pedal. Then you The car has been in my garage under cover since then. This summer I decided it was time to get it back on the road. The is generally in good driver condition with around 70k miles and seems mostly original and unmolested. Everything worked when I stopped driving it. So, I thought I would start a thread on my recommissioning of the car. The plan is as follows : Remove engine and gearbox Clean the engine bay area New cooling and fuel hoses New cambelt, aux belts Gaskets where needed New vacuum lines Inspect the clutch and remedy what I find New hardware/fasteners where needed New rear discs Remove and flush the petrol tanks Brake flush and check etc. And whatever else I find..... I have in my garage a portable 2 post lift, engine hoist, chain hoist, plenty of room and enough experience to be dangerous. (Other cars include a 1992 TVR Griffith...changed the camshaft in that; Reliant Scimitar.....similar recommission on that; TR6 engine rebuild and running gear rebuild; Daimler SP250....engine and running gear rebuild and years of British classic maintenance. I'll try and keep the photos of progress coming to hopefully help others who venture down this path, and in return I'll be lobbing out a few questions along the way. First up, the working space.
  16. I am about to replace all the fuel hoses on my 1984 US spec (carb) Turbo. Is the textured hose type in the photo still available? Otherwise I am thinking something like this cloth braided hose. or alternatively a Gates Barricade (TM) Any other recommendations?
  17. I need to remove the rear calipers on my 1984 US spec Turbo because I am lifting the engine out as part of a recommissioning of the car. Do I need to disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper in order to disconnect the caliper from the rear axle or can I leave the cable connected? Photo below of the right side rear caliper. From this thread I am being a bit dumb (American) and not following how to disconnect the cable....
  18. I am starting the recommissioning of my 1984 Turbo Esprit (US Spec) and pulling the engine for a thorough going over. When I disconnected the flexible gear linkage cable it was secured by a retaining loop that was attached to a sump bolt. The bolt undid but stopped at a certain point. I persevered gently and the bolt came out. However, I noticed a brown sleeve part way down the thread of the bolt. I have never seen this before. Can anyone explain what this is sleeve is about? I am hoping I have not done anything wrong.
  19. 1984 Turbo Esprit, US spec. My Esprit has sat for too long, about 5 years due to what I think is a bad clutch issue (when I press the pedal I would hear a sort of "graunching" should but from the pedal area, not the gearbox end). Other projects just got in the way. Anyway, I am now ready to tackle this and of course several other things will need looking at so I am thinking of pulling the engine and gearbox out together and going through everything, like belts, any suspect gaskets, seals etc. I have the Lotus service manual but nowhere in it can I find information on removing the driveshafts to lift out the engine. I have searched this and other forums and found there are a few ways to separate the driveshafts. I am fairly handy with the spanners and have tackled engine out and rebuilds on several other classics, but the Esprit seems to be a unique beast and I am little nervous. I'd like the least invasive if that's possible recommendation on the driveshaft removal please. Thanks in advance.
  20. Hi Dean Try look around this website for some hints and tips. Yes, its American based. I would certainly recommend using a clay bar with the detail spray. First time I used a clay bar I was amazed at the difference. You might want to consider a couple of grades of polish to tackle it in stages. I find Meguires and Griot good products. I had a black Jaguar XJS before my Esprit and I used a black polish and wax system, and it was good, Meguires I think, something to consider. I have one of the 3" and 6" Griot orbital polishers and they are great. You don't have to push hard with them at all. Even gentle approach seems to work. I do the main large areas with the polisher and by hand in the details. The products today are soooo much better than the old T-Cut and Turtle Wax days. I'm originally from the UK, but live in the US now. The American's LOVE their car detailing. Try Youtube too for hints and tips. If you have a leather interior, then I highly recommend a product called Leatherique. I have used it on my XJS and Esprit, nice stuff. Post some before and after pics.
  21. I set the fuel pressure regulator per the service manual to 4-4.5psi with the ignition on but the engine not running. I have test driven the car and it feels 'flat' on hard acceleration (I did post about this on the Lotus Esprit FB page). The car is getting boost, well at least the boost gauge shows full boost under hard accel and I hear a whooshing nice in my right ear. The car takes off but it seems to lack the thrust I think it had before. Now, I have attached snippets of the service manual and I think I see a discrepancy in the notes, perhaps you can concur? In the fuel system General Description (USA cars) section it says the fuel pressure is set to be 4-4.5 psi under light load conditions. In the later section about the fuel pressure regulator it says to set the regulator pressure to 4-4.5 psi with the ignition on only. Then it says run the engine and make sure the pressure is under 3.5psi. When my engine is idling its reading about 1.5psi. If you snap the throttle open it runs up to 4-5 psi. So, my question is should the idling pressure be set to 4-4.5 psi or the ignition on only be set to 4-4.5 psi?
  22. @jcslocumJon, slight thread highjack, but how long did it take you to remove the carbs on your car? Big pain in the a** or just a slow process?
  23. This weekend I had a look at things. I found the idle jacking solenoid mounted at the front of the air box on the carbs. All connections look good. Started the car and warmed it up. Then turned the ac on, and well, guess what, the high idle kicked in again. I pulled the connectors on and off a couple of times and maybe that cleaned them a bit. Anyway, problem fixed. I also found out that SJ does these solenoids still and perform about 3 tasks.
  24. This weekend I replaced the diaphragm. Photos attached of the difference. I haven't driven the car yet, but it seems I will have to check the fuel pressure is correct. Maybe time caused the old one to harden, or maybe the newer ethanol fuels?
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