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philcool

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  • Name
    Phil
  • Car
    Exige S 240
  • Location
    London

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  1. Lucky enough not my quoat but a friend in 4 bed detached house in Dartford and before you ask no swimming pool
  2. I've been there twice your not flat out much more chance of getting lost round the cones. It's a good bit of fun but you do little timed runs so should be OK.
  3. Should last longer than 100 miles to be honest unless you've hit a big pot hole and possibly bent something which is easey done on our crappy roads or as you say they diddent lock it off properly of forgot all together
  4. No actually waited for a chrome orange one to come up waited 18 months. It's the sort of car you can go as shouty as you like. In my opinion obviously I've a C Class mercedes and silver it is a suits it well
  5. Exactly that hamza the glandseal that seals the inpur shaft is basically two ploshed faces usually one made of carbon the other tungsten and are pressed together via springs they rely on a thin film of oil between the faces to seal once this drains away through lack of use they begin to leak. A larger screw compressor but eventually the same
  6. Good lad ypu won't get better than that 5" any lower and the evap will ice up Well done just remember to run it as often as ypu can and try to engage the A/C at tick over and not at high revs as the compressors don't like going from 0--4k revs in 1 second πŸ‘Œ
  7. Just weigh the correct amount in and it's done remember your proberbly not testing with the rpm at 4k and 60mph air over the condenser. Remember don't overcharge correct amount and finish not a single gram for luck
  8. Happy days I'd say your about there πŸ₯ΆπŸ‘
  9. Bruss Turning the can upside down all depends whether it's got a dip tube some of our cylinders have some haven't so if it says invert I suggest it has so follow that instruction. You can run and top up at any time some people top up 3 times a year if they have a small leak so you can run and top up multiple times but remember to keep an eye and add up the grams your adding if you doing a bit at a time better to charge the correct amount in one go. To vent the high side hose via the gauges with the A/C running shut off the red connector to the system remember its anticlockwise to close. Open the red valve on your gauges and make sure the yellow middle hose is either connected to the closed cylinder or blanked off to stop the refrigerant escapeing to atmosphere.Then crack open the blue valve on the gauges and you should see the pressure on the red high pressure gauge drop down to match the pressure on the low pressure blue gauge you should also see liquid refrigerant move through the gauges sight glass. Once the pressures on both gauges equalise close the blue low pressure connector to the system and remove the gauges that now have the same low pressure in the both lines as the suction pressure of the system this will be lost to atmosphere not much you can do about that. I would say thoes pressure 40psi suction and 220psi are about right for air onto the evaporator of 20'C remember theses will vary depending on engine rpm. As for weighing the last bit in you have to weigh every bit in from the moment you introduce refrigerant to break the vacuum it all counts. I vac the system to 2 Torr or below and because its a very fine measurement you only have to wait half an hour to check for pressure rise if its OK I place the cylinder on scales that measure in grams introduce gas to standing pressure of the cylinder usually about 70psi run the A/C introduce gas until the required weight in grams has been charged in and that's it. No more no less if it says 650grams that's what it gets sometimes it might say plus or minus 10% just charge to the grams quoted don't bother with the plus or minus amount and you won't go wrong. Phil
  10. Good man Bruss Fist of all do like the little vac pump. Now where vacuum is concerned we use a Torr gauge which is way more accurate than your gauges so yes leave it overnight as may take a while to show up if the vacuum is getting lost. Also certain parts if the system act differently under the forces of pressure and vacuum O Rings for instance can be a pain leaking under pressure and holding under a vacuum and sometimes the other way so unfortunately a vacuum test with normal gauges is not a definitive test but it's a start and the correct course of action. As for adding oil yes you won't boil away any with a vacuum pump but you can suck some into the vac pump but generally your be OK. So if no real patches of oil about I'd just give it a top up. So fast forward it holds 30" all night good when you come to add refrigerant do not add it as a liquid as it will boil about -60'C and can crack pipes and fittings so please add gas only Remember these systems only take a small amount of refrigerant. Now the best way to charge car A/C is by weight so look at the grams needed usually around 600-750g and charge using scales remembering to include the gas used to brake the vacuum. Now if your using the coloured segment gauge arrangement then read the instructions and follow them. Remember some refill canisters already have a percentage of refrigerant oil mixed in with the gas. Golden rule better to be slightly undercharged than overcharged when filling. So many people get carried away with well I'm adding refrigerant it's getting cold I'll add some more.Always ends in tears Hope all goes well I'm sure it will Just remember once running the red high pressure line will contain liquid refrigerant so you can bleed this through the gauges to the low pressure side before removal if your used to using the gauges bleed slowly if not just be carefull when removing.
  11. I would suggest that the system is still undercharged and that you do have a variable volume flow compressor that will only allow the suction to drop to a preset level iraspective of engine revs. Have you an idea of how much refrigerant you have put in ie the full can or 1/2 a can. If you've put the full can in then I would suspect the expansion valve is at fault and not letting enough refrigerant through to the evaporator or maybe the driers blocked which is the filter before the expansion valve. On a magnetic clutch compressor as the suction drops a pressure switch dis engages the compressor and on pressure rise re engages corresponding with an engine rpm rise and the distinctive click sound. The reason you don't run the suction pressure low is that you will freeze the evaporator coil and block it with ice. So I suspect that your compressor is running and varying it's output as its designed to do irrespective of engine rpm Hope this helps John
  12. Sounds like it's pumping as the needle wouldn't move at all it will be up in the red when off because the pressures equalise through the system. If the needed goes down to the top of the low scale on tickover it would suggest the system is still undercharged. How much refrigerant is in the cylinder from new ,check this against the refrigerant charge in the handbook if the pressure was very low when you first connected the gauge then there would have only been a few grams in the system and from that you can gauge roughly how much it requires. If you've put say 600-700grams in which I don't know off the top of my head is around the full charge and it's still regulating at the top of the low then I would say there's a fault with the expansion valve not letting enough refrigerant through and the compressor is regulating itself on the suction pressure. A magnetic cluch type compressor will cycle on and off as the pressure falls and back on again as it rises. Where as a non magnetic cluch compressor will regulate its output to match the suction pressure. Hope this helps
  13. Yes you can link the relay out on a magnetic clutch compressor while the engine is off and see and hear the centre of the clutch pull into the pully I can hear my clutch engage and the revs rise on my s2 exige from inside. But looking at your clutch in your pictures it looks like a constantly running clutch I stress looks. I would re connect the STP gauge and your need 2 people and look at the gauge pressure with the engine off start it rev to 1500rpm does the pressure drop down or not turn the A/C on with the internal fan on 3 and again rev to 1500rpm does it drop down if not then the compressors not pumping. Now if its not then either the compressors running and has an internal problem or its not turning and that could be an issue with the clutch. I looked again at your pictures and can't see any wires on a plug behind the pully maybe if ypu have a closer look you should be able to see 1 or 2 wires going to a plug behind the pully as that's where the coil is situated on a magnetic clutch Keep at it John nothing ventured nothing gained . Just a thought does your A/C switch have a light in the middle mine does and shines blue when A/C is called for just a thought
  14. So you connected the STP canister and it was reading a low pressure below the green I assume. You added refrigerant and ran the A/C and did you notice the pressure again drop and you added more refrigerant. At this point as you were adding refrigerant with the system running did the pressure whilst running and adding refrigerant come back into the green or is it a case you kept adding and it just kept dropping away in which case the compressor is pumping but the expansion valve is closed. Or was it the case you topped it up ran the A/C and the needle never moved in which case the compressor is not pumping
  15. Usually if the expansion valve has failed closed then the compressor would cycle on and off on the low pressure switch if its jammed open less likely because its still only got a small orifice it would still produce enough pressure drop to achieve some cooling
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