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philcool

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  • Name
    Phil
  • Car
    Exige S 240
  • Location
    London

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  1. Well no track day cover. But 5k miles a year garaged overnight Non standard exhaust declared Fully com .protected NCB 9 years .legal cover Exige S240 Location Inner London £267 L.V Have noticed that some policy don't cover windscreens now so watch out for that Was over £400 with AIB
  2. I second this advice I had scans and all sorts on my left knee because it was a pain like tooth Ake. Untill one of the lads at work suggested Glucosamine and Chondroitin tablets I get them from Holland and Barret when in the penny sale and they need a month or so to get working but what a difference so I stopped and after a few weeks back came the pain so give them a try
  3. Don't think so bibs we went on a Friday and sat outside and the general consensus is wait till fully open
  4. philcool

    Car SOS

    21.00 more 4 tonight Esprit S1
  5. Just run on Shell V Power and stop buying beer 🍻 at £5 a pint Just my view 😁
  6. Just throwing it out there you could money no object change to a 48V system instead of 12v and have a completely hermetic system fitted so no direct drive from the engine so compressor installation can be at the front so shorter pipes etc. You might even be able to have a split system so 12v for everything else save all the changes. Just a thought ☺️
  7. Just seems everyone on here has a hatred for porsche and the people who drive them ? Personally I've driven loads from boxsters Caymans 911 and macans and there ok just different to Lotus even serviced a few and the pdk gearboxes are cracking Even went in the Exige to a Porsche open day with no official invite and to be fare they let me in and parked up with the rest of them and had a good laugh Just my experience that's all
  8. Yes you can have leaks that only leak under pressure and not loose a vacuum generally O rings can produce this syndrome but it's quite rare usually I find that a system will hold a pressure test but can leak after it's placed on a vacuum and it's always an O ring seal where the O ring has moved but again it's a rare occurrence.
  9. All good points. First thing to note is when the refrigerant charge becomes low the compressor suffers in two ways 1st loss of cooling it's only the cool vapour returning from the evaporator that cools the compressor. 2nd the oil in the system is entrained in the refrigerant and returns to the compressor via a mist as the compressors have no sump. So low refrigerant level equals lack of cooling and lubrication. The systems have low pressure cut outs but they are usually fairly cheep items and are factory set and are not usually that accurate. The problem with a slow leak is the compressor can run for a while without adequate cooling or lubrication verses a big instant leak like a punctured condenser that trips the low pressure switch instantly. So what to do. And your correct vacuum test should pull and more importantly hold 2--3 Torr. You can also do a pressure test with Oxygen free Nitrogen and manually look for leaks with bubbles. Or recharge the system with fluorescent dye and look for any tell tail signe with a U/V light. The thing is car A/C only holds approx 600g--1200g of gas not much at all and the leak can be so small it's very hard to find especially as 50% if the pipework and fittings cannot be seen or easily accessed. And as for the Halfords top up bottles are ok but never be tempted to add more as many people do in the thought of a bit for luck and well it's getting colder etc as the golden rule with car A/C is slightly undercharged is better than overcharge as overcharging can result in liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor and as we all know you can't compress a liquid and or high discharge pressures. Fare better to weigh the refrigerant in according to the stated labeled amount as topping up from a bottle also has oil in with the refrigerant and depends on variables such as engine speed ,ambient temperature .internal fan speed .evaporator/pollen filter cleanliness but obviously that's in an ideal world. So the leak needs to be found and repaired above all else. And your correct about running the A/C all year round very important keeps the compressor input shaft seal lubricated and minimise leaks and as a foot note try not to engage the compressor at high revs as the poor old compressor tries to go from 0 to say 4k revs in a second not good for the clutch or compressor. Hope this helps
  10. Just looking at your photograph and while your digging around in there I know your not going to want to hear this but the top left rusty brown nut is the high pressure on your A/C and that looks like it's rotting away the slightly larger line that's got black foam lagging on it is the low pressure suction side and the two black plastic caps on the pipes at an angle are the service ports Disappointing I must say not a great design
  11. Good point Ian slightly wrong just trying to help the coil in the climate box is the evaporator the condenser is the other end of the system and yes if it does ice up then the compressor should stop on its low pressure setting as the ice insulated the coil from the warm air flow. And 1" of ice has the same insulating effect of 1/2" of cork lagging ( that's one thing I remembered from collage ). Anyway if the compressor still runs with an iced evaporator then yes it can overheat but more often than not liquid refrigerant can return to the compressor and they don't last long once that happens. The main thing to take away from all this is any real issue with these systems it's always the compressor that gives out and that's the most expensive part but ha/ ho that's how it is unfortunately.
  12. Just to help out 1. Never overcharge a system as overcharging is easey done if not weighing the refrigerant in and going by pressures and temperatures as this has many variables .Ambient temperature ,engine speed ,internal fan speed, ,evaporator/condenser cleanliness. Always weigh the charge in and being slightly overcharged is worse than slightly undercharged as overcharging can cause liquid refrigerant to return to the compressor and we all know you cannot compress a liquid. 2 .Always try and engage the compressor at engine tick over otherwise your stressing the magnetic clutch and compressor if you put the A/C on at higher revs so dip the clutch and put the A/C on if necessary. As nothing likes going from 0--4000rpm in 1 second 3. The only cooling the compressor has is the cool refrigerant vapour returning from the evaporator so running severely undercharged if the low pressure switch isn't working will kill a compressor quickly and to compound the problem the compressor has no sump and the oil in the system is miscible with the refrigerant and lubricates the internals as a mist returning with the suction vapour and low suction vapour as in short of refrigerant means the oil doesn't return as well. 4.Always run the A/C at least every month as the glandseal that seals the refrigerant from escaping via the input shaft only seals when wet with oil and whilst stationary the oil drains away and the seal will weep.this happens on large tonnage compressors as well so much so manufacturers now fit what's called a stationery gland seal support that keeps the oil around the gland and stops it draining internally back inside the compressor bit I'm going off topic. If it's cold out most car A/C's won't run due to lack of warm air or heat load to stop liquid returning to the compressor this is usually below 6'C .So run the car to temperature and place on recirculation and warm up the cabin the leave on recirc fan on full A/C on and use the heat in the cabin to give the A/C something to cool and your be ok only needs to run for a few mins. Hope this helps
  13. Yes bit late now have had some good times now highest paid with the best van and they've never skimped on tools and did have a final salery pension till last year but managed to get 12% pension out of them instead now so not all bad
  14. Well I've worked for the same company for 38 years and all that time I've had numerous assesments with different managers and never once been offered a pay rise other than the usuall 1/2% annual increase and nobody else has either. So always have to hand my notice in and be prepared to leve is that a progressive company I think not. Last time of asking oh sorry we really value your years of experience but sorry so handed my notice in to work for our sister company and oh well hold on. Next thing we really value your work and we will match your offer and some and that turned into 24.5% pay rise yes that's right 24.5% from oh sorry about 2 weeks earlier but that's the way it is at our place always has been always will be. So consequently we have lost some good engineers over the years that's cost the company dearly and untill that happens I'm afrade the management never take any notice never. And now we've actually been told before the yearly assesments that we cannot talk about any sort of pay rise as this is not a salary review. Shame is not one manager can actually do my job not one they turn up on site and honestly stand in bewilderment. Shame
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