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philcool

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About philcool

  • Rank
    LOTUS

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    play a bit of squash and tennis and like a wrist watch and most motor sport don't do football or golf im afraid although crazy golfs ok!

More Info

  • Name
    Phil
  • Car
    Exige S 240
  • Location
    London

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Sounds like the clutch pack rattling the clutch only moves a couple of millimeters to engage I would drive back with the A/C on
  2. Unfortunately the big problem finding leaks is very difficult as many parts and hoses are hidden and vacuum tests are ok but they are sucking Inn air to find a leak and unfortunately the gas leaks out under pressure and differsnt joints in the system react differently depending if under pressure or vacuum so if no leak found using a vacuum then dry Nitrogen should be used to test the system under pressure usually 10/14bar and if no leak detected than you can add ultraviolet fluorescent die on recharge and then run the system and go looking with your U/V torch
  3. That's not to had the Rolex is around £450/500 and the Patek £1600 and it's away for 12/16 weeks you do get a new strap
  4. Generally the main place for refrigerant loss is the compressor gland as it requires a thin film of oil on the polished faces to seal and lack of use means the gland dries out.thus resulting in refrigerant loss. To counteract this my Mercedes runs and pumps the system down every time the cars started even if the A/C is turned off. Unfortunately I suspect that Lotus has not configured the system that way certainly not in my S2 Exige. So you must remember to run the system at least every 2 weeks and if the outside temp is to cold usually below 5'C the A/C is usually disabled as there's not enough air temperature across the evaporator to boil the refrigerant from a liquid to a vapour and you risk getting liquid back to the compressor and you cannot compress a liquid so it usually brakes the valves. To get round this run the car up to temperature and place it on recirculation and warm the cabin up then leave it on recirc and place the A/C on and run for a few minutes Also try to remember not to engage the A/C at high revs as the poor old compressor doesn't like going from 0 to say 6k revs in an instant dip the clutch or wait till your at a set of lights Hope this helps as it does seem the Evora. A/C does seem a bit fragile Also it's worth remembering that car A/C only holds around 700grams of refrigerant so you don't need to loose much to start haveing issues. Unlike the systems I work on that can require a top up if 400kg at a cost of around £20k depending on refrigerant used.
  5. Not sure if you can easily see the clutch on the compressor if the middle is turning then the compressor should be turning if the middle is stationery then the compressor is not running If the system has lost gas then the compressor should not run all the cars I've worked on have a low and high pressure cutout switch. If the compressor is running and the charge pressure is low don't run the compressor as it requires returning refrigerant to cool the compressor and also an oil mist in the refrigerant to lubricate it. It could be that the valves in the compressor are damaged and so not compressing the gas time to get some gauges fitted to check the pressures. If the pressure is low Standing pressure for R134a at 20'C should be around 4.7bar. @ 15'C should be approx 3.87bar and 10'C 3.14bar Then start looking for a leak as Dave said you can check by pulling and more importantly holding a vacuum. But to find a leak then a pressure test with dry Nitrogen will be required paying perticular attention to the glandseal behind the magnetic clutch on the compressor. If there is a leak hopefully it will be large enough to find with bubbles or you may be able to hear it if it's small then you may have to add fluorescent dye to the system run on test then look round with a UV light to see the dreaded glow of a leak. Hope this helps a little Golden rule when recharging after repairing a leak always weigh the charge in and never overcharge the system Trust me more refrigerant does more harm than leaving the system slightly undercharged
  6. Me and Dave will be there have signed up Is this exclusively a Lotus car trip or can my mate come in his 981 Cayman ?
  7. Generally all cars have a high and low pressure cut out. The problem when they loose gas be it through the input glandseal usually through lack of use or else were as the oil in the system is misable with the refrigerant you loose that as well. Now there's proberbly only about 700grams of refrigerant in the system and only a few fluid Oz of oil so it doesn't take much to loose the oil charge. Now as the compressors don't have a sump they rely on a mist of oil returning with the refrigerant for lubrication. Now unfortunately 2 things are against you when you loose refrigerant 1 with any loss of gas a certain amount of lubricating oil will also be lost 2 if the system is running low on charge the velocity of the returning gas from the evaporator (cooling coil within the car) decreases and leads to oil starvation to the compressor as it leaves it behind in the evaporator. So golden rules Always run the A/C to keep the input shaft glandseal lubricated. It requires a thin film of oil on the carbon and polish steal faces to seal and stop refrigerant loss. If the A/C is under preforming don't run it untill it's repaired/re gassed And try not to engage the A/C at high engine revs as it puts undue strain on the magnetic clutch and the compressor as it's forced to match the engine revs instantly Although I understand this directly does not help your situations it may help you in the future
  8. philcool

    Which jack?

    This is what they use at the Factory bet know one else took this picture Don't look at the cars look at the jacks
  9. 1. Bibs  2. Barry Kearley and Danny 3. anewtoy and his young lad 4. Geoffers 5. Phil and might be other half ? 6. Scott @Vonspin 7. Nick @Noisy Nick 8. Dave @Atak
  10. What's new already got all the above on my company van including a memo highlighting that any accident be my fault or not the tracker information will be sent to the insurance company. We get a bar chart now and this includes any harsh accelerating or braking or excessive cornering speeds and at any point in the journey I speed it's highlighted in red including how much over the limit and for how long. Well how does it effect me coming from 32years without a tracker/limiter. I'm makeing more money as have always been paid door to door and absolutely no incentive to rush or make up time so quit relaxing. And any traffic which there's plenty so what more overtime. Now the company is getting the hump as overheads have increased due to the extra travel. Now waiting for the memo telling us all to drive the maximum speed limit at all times.
  11. I've always used Shell Helix Ultra 5w_40 fully synthetic in my S2 Exige and Dave's and he tracks his a lot with no ussues And differant grades of shell in all my cars Reson we use shell in fridge plants of all makes and these oils have to cope with -50'C to 110'C and have used Mobile, Elf, Fuchs, sunisco, Emkarati and many others over the years but Shell has never caused an issue with waxing and carryover or carbonising so have applied some man logic and always used it in my cars even my old Merc 20 years old and 180k finally rotted away but never touched the engine appart from oil and filter. Plus 5L When on 50%discount at euro car parts under £19 compared to £52 in a Shell garage. Just my thoughts but everyone has a favourite oil
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