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  1. #43 has a new owner in Germany.
  2. The belt is only about a year old ... when I change it again I'm planning on a new bottom pulley and tensioner etc. ... Just not right now - I need the car to be mobile again before the MOT runs out at the end of the month! Hants34 ... Unfortunately, I don't think NA will make any difference to the water pump! The front of that engine looks the same as my NA excel (with only a couple of minor differences - one being, that one doesn't have 154,000 miles worth of accumulated muck all over it!).
  3. From that pic, it looks like it can be done with the cam-belt in place... Can anyone confirm that? It's been a long time since I re-sealed my pump to the block! My Excel has just had the same problem sudden water pump problem ... it was fine running on tickover for 20 mins .. drove 7 miles, 82 degrees, all fine, 200 yards before getting to halfords it gets worried about crap parts or furry dice and dumps its coolant ... Would be an easier job if the PAS pump wasn't bolted to the water pump!!
  4. It could be wear on the shims where they meet the valve tip, wear at that point would increase clearances. You can measure that with a mic, and possibly just flip the shims over!
  5. Half an amp sounds like quite a lot since the ECU isn't doing anything when switched off (keeping the trim settings etc in a low power static RAM should be negligable). Half an amp is more than leaving one sidelight bulb on. I would've expected less than 100ma for the whole car but that's not based on any measurements at this time of night! I can check mine tomorrow. Is he absolutely sure that it's the ECU?
  6. Yep, I got the capsules today. I missed the courier yesterday and had to wait for redelivery today. They look so much better than the originals. I've already dismantled them to align the output shafts to match the original. I was too scared to twist the shaft in case it was attached to the diaphragm. Hmm .. thanks for the tip dave, I'll take a look at my vac pump... judging by the way it seems to "breathe" as it pumps, mine might well be the type that can be reversed! I'm also wondering if the fact that one of my capsules was effectively an open vent to the manifold vac line would be causing the lumpy tickover I currently have - but only at the slowest tickover speed (around 850). It's smooth at higher engine speeds and pulls fine with no misfire. Plugs have been replaced, leads checked etc .. fingers crossed the capsules will fix it too!
  7. I can't seem to find a pressure pump (in between working!). I was looking for hand pumps, but pressure pumps seem much rarer than vac pumps. I've noticed that some vac pumps also have a positive pressure outlet even if the gauge is vac only .. unfortunately my vac pump doesn't! Something like the lumbar support pumps for seats might work with a gauge added, although I'm not sure if they'd make it to the 0.35-0.4 bar range! Any ingenious solutions or cheap sources of pressure pumps?!
  8. After much arguing with the warranty company, I managed to convince them to pay for a pair of alloy wastegate capsules from PNM to replace the originals ... this probably was more related to the fact that a pair was cheaper than a single unit from Lotus combined with Lotus dealer fitting charges. Getting anything out of the squirming b*****s has to be considered a success though :-) Now I just need to set them up .. I understand how to measure the movement with dial gauge etc, I'm just wondering how people generate and measure 5psi accurately to set them up? I do have a hand vacuum pump, but I don't think it has a pressure side outlet that I can hook into .. Half of the pump searches I try on ebay seem to end up with and array of devices designed to increase manhood size!!!
  9. If you're using these on standard bells, you may need a 1.5-2.0mm washer to move the caliper outboard (ie, towards the wheel face). The original AP rotors (on my car at least) were stepped a little on their mounting face and the PNM discs weren't. This meant the PNM disc was touching the inner edge of the caliper. Also, since the PNM discs are 30mm thick instead of 32mm, the 1.5/2.0mm washer centres the disc nicely in the caliper, otherwise the 2mm extra gap is all on one side. I did speak to PNM and they said that this stepping (original machined, not wear) was not on all discs as far as they were aware. Perhaps this is why lotus always shipped bells & discs as a unit. Apart from that niggle at install time, the discs work fine!
  10. I wonder if some of the confusion is about where these pressures are acting .. Am I right to suggest that the 0.4 bar is the pressure applied to the capsule diaphragm needed to open the wastegate, whereas the target 0.8-1.0 bar is the pressure in the turbo acting on the wastage valve? The ECU will bleed pressure away from the wastegate capsule preventing it opening until the desired boost level is reached - but in order for this to work, the valve must stay shut with up to 0.8-1.0 bar inside the turbo, otherwise, regardless of what the ECU is requesting, the valve is forced open by pressure in the turbo. So, we need a capsule that can open the wastage with 0.4 bar applied to it for "safety", but will hold the wastgate shut with 0.8-1.0 bar inside the turbo .... correct? Do I get a free chip? ;-)
  11. I'm a bit lost here - I thought the standard ECU / boost controller would bleed away pressure when it wants to allow more boost than the static capsule setting - so that the capsule stays shut. Conversely, under conditions when the ECU wants to limit boost, it would not bleed pressure from the capsule feed and the capsule is then effectively receiving full engine boost levels and will open at its "static" setting. Or does the ECU boost controller always bleed off a percentage of boost?!
  12. Check your bottom pulley carefully ... I *very* nearly had the same problem as you on my Excel but I noticed that 7 teeth were missing / chewed in a row on my belt. I heard a (fairly quiet) whooshing noise, stopped the engine and turned it over by hand to check it out. I nearly died of shock when I saw the missing teeth. The cam & aux pulleys were all ok, as was the tensioner bearing. The car was in regular use, 3000 miles a month at the time. The belt was only 3000 miles old (1 month!), and was correctly tensioned.
  13. The 912 NA engine in my Excel SE has now reached 149,000 miles with nothing other than routine maintenance and re-sealing the water pump to the block when the original sealant started to fail (no gasket on later cars). It's pretty similar to an S3 engine except for the Nikasil liners and Mahle pistons in my Excel so with careful maintence I don't think mileage is an issue. I've used mobil 1 15w/50, 5w/50 or castrol RS 10w60 for the last 100,000 miles - I always allow it to warm up gently, no thrashing until the water AND oil are warm. It's done a few track days in its time, including Castle Combe last year with around 138k on the clock! It still pulls strongly to 7k, no visible smoke ... oh, and a compression test last week revealed all between 210 and 220psi :-)
  14. Are you sure it was the cat at fault? My car failed emissions simply because the joints between the standard cats and the exhaust box were loose and not airtight. The dealer removed the exhaust box and used some snazzy F1 (they claimed) sealant on the cat->pipe joints and refitted the clamps, it then sailed through!
  15. The Sport 350 / AP discs are 320mm, not 323mm. If you use a 330mm disc and space the calipers away from wheel centre by 5mm, there won't be an unswept area on the outside edge, although there may be on the inside edge, depending on the friction area on the disc. I've got the PNM replacements on mine with the original Lotus bells, however, the PNM discs are not 32mm thick (30mm I think) and did not have a small step machined into them as the AP discs on my car did. This meant that the caliper was rubbing against the outer friction face of the disc. In the end, I spaced the caliper outboard (towards wheel face) by 1.5mm with washers, to stop the rubbing and centre the caliper on the thinner disc. No problems with the PNM discs once fitted and set up ...
  16. EBC make different thickness pads in a variety of compounds. If you look at their website and compare Esprit Brembo and Elise rear pads you'll see the difference.
  17. I had this problem on one front hose on my TVR but in reverse! I was changing the pads and couldn't get the caliper piston to retract - yet the brakes worked ok. I assumed the piston was partially seized and bought a pair of recon calipers at the same time as a set of goodridge hoses before realising that the original rubber hose wasn't allowing fluid to flow back towards the master cylinder!
  18. Yep, I've got a 94 Grif 500 ... it's brutal, sounds gorgeous, still looks good despite being 13 years old and since it's Rover powered, isn't too expensive to fix. The engine hasn't been touched except for exhaust manifold gaskets .. diff has had output shaft seals ..gearbox output shaft weeping but that oils the chassis :-) I've owned it for about 8 or 9 years ... in some ways it's similar to a Lotus - you can get in there and fix things yourself - and it's been pretty reliable and only potentially left me stranded twice - one of the non-starting problems was a sticky start motor so a whack fixed that until I could change it, the second was a faulty fuel or ignition relay which I hotwired and got myself going. It is a car you "listen" too, it hints when things are going wrong, a bit like Lotuses. Build quality falls short of Lotus .. and the chassis on my Grif needs attention on the outriggers - this is a body off job. I understand the later cars had better chassis protection, but the early ones, although allegedly powder coated are generally suffering by now unless the owners have spent time keeping the chassis tidy. A summer use only car will be better .. As a comparison, the chassis on my 145k mile Excel is still solid .. the 48k mile TVR is not. This summer it will need a body off resto .. a good chance to go through it changing bushes etc too - but bear this in mind if buying an older car - check the chassis outriggers carefully! It's also very different to drive ... brutal power delivery (loads of torque), short wheel base .. don't sneeze on a roundabout and lift off oversteer can be an issue - perhaps partly influenced by the LSD freeing up when backing off too. In some ways it's better on a track than the road where the surface is smooth and you can plan everything. 0-60, 0-100 ... pretty much same as Esprit V8 .. although after 100, the Esprit wins hands down. AND I'm too scared to thrash the Esprit from 0-60 ... on the other hand, the TVR can finish off a set of old tyres nicely! Don't believe the 320/340bhp claims of TVR .. a good standard 500 will have 270 to 280 but it's a lot lighter than an Esprit. The power numbers don't matter, it's plenty fast enough! DO NOT expect a Griffith to handle anything like an Esprit ... at 130 the Esprit feels like it's doing 90, at 90 the TVR feels like it's doing 130. But that V8 soundtrack :-) Every time I drive the Esprit I feel I'm gonna lose my licence! To get it "alive" it needs speed!! Most days I take the Excel to work ... Well, Fred probably knows why!
  19. It could be just a hose clip that needs tightening up. There are a lot of hose joints! You could also check the security of the bleed valve. If you're unlucky, the rad could be split.
  20. If you're in Hampshire, I'd recommend Micheldever Tyres. I had a puncture repair on a rear mag on my S350, well, two punctures in the same tyre - a 6cm bolt and a small nail! I pointed out the value of the wheels and the guy who took the wheel in said, if we damage it, we'll replace it. They had one of their most experienced guys do the work - he called me in to show me a microscopic mark on the wheel before he started and just got on with the job .. very carefully!
  21. If they keep ramping up the tax on high band cars ... maybe it'll help the resale value of pre-2001 supercars?? Feeling pleased that I bought the 2000 Sport 350 instead of the 02 now As to the rest of the hidden tax rises, don't start me off!!
  22. R-49 is another drop in replacement for R-12 (in addition to RS24 mentioned above) .. seems a cheaper option that changing components?
  23. Don't panic ... if your car is pre-2001 ... it's "only" going up by
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