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krytensmeghead

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About krytensmeghead

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday September 2

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    Male

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  • Name
    Glen
  • Car
    83 Esprit Turbo, Delorean, Mercedes 500SEC
  • Location
    Sydney

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  1. I've been thinking about the Subaru box for a while, but I'd only do it if I could fit an H6 engine in there as well. My esprit turbo engine has never been reliable even though I've replaced almost everything to do with the fuel and ignition systems. It's on it's last chance now. I've just had the dellortos ultrasonically cleaned again and getting rid of the lumenition system while the carbies are out. The 1st gear ratio is a bit too high to use in traffic compared to most cars. It's more suited to racing. Injectors are easier to replace than rebuilding carbies, electronic ignition and no timing belt and a simple cooling system. I just don't know if it would be too wide for the chassis. Then there's the whole inboard brake thing to think about and centre diff to disable. So not as simple after all. Anyone else thought about the H6 ?
  2. The idle galleries are blocked. There is no difference between fully open and fully closed on the idle adjustment after disassembly and cleaning with carby cleaner and compressed air so they're disassembled again and need to be ultrasonically cleaned. The only thing I don't know how to get out is the inner shaft seals. Would these be ok going through the ultrasonic cleaner ? It's one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/6L-Digital-Stainless-Steel-Dental-Medical-6-Liter-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Heater-Tank/201481332843?epid=9025027859&hash=item2ee939286b:g:fQwAAOSwNphWZzgl:rk:35:pf:0 I think he's using non caustic degreaser or some sort of non foaming detergent. The bearings are out. Also need to do something about the butterfly screws. Looks like they're single use only but may be able to cut the end off that looks like a helicoil and use loctite. Really need to know about the seals going through the cleaning process. I suspect I won't be able to get them out without damaging them, or get new ones quickly, or get the new ones in. I don't know if there is a more appropriate place to ask this as I'm trying to get this done with the limited time I have off but the carby experts are also on holidays. Thanks, Glen.
  3. I cleaned them out as best I could with carby cleaner and compressed air but the idle circuit appears to be blocked. If I can be bothered working on it again I'll get them ultrasonically cleaned ( again ) and replace the ignition with the hall effect one while the carbies are off. The one thing I didn't think of when I replaced everything before was the steel pipe going from the filter to the engine. That will be replaced with a hose this time. It probably needs to run on LPG if it's not being driven all the time.
  4. I thought it might help if this wasn't in the carbies
  5. I wasn't able to get a file for this, however if you can get a model ,eg. autoart , maybe you could do a 3d scan of it. Depending on the size you're after you could just take a mould off the model. You could find a plastic tray or make a wooden box and use 2 pack moulding silicon.
  6. Found what is probably the cause of the engine stalling. I replaced the fuel pump and pressure regulator and also installed a clear fuel filter on the suction side of the pump. I removed the strainers on the carbies and they were both almost completely blocked. Reversed flushed them with compressed air. The lump on the side of the strainer is just a shadow. The debris hadn't got past the gauze.
  7. I tried that but it doesn't take long for the spark to be there so not sure if that's what is failing. I can test for spark but it still runs badly and keeps stalling. I finally found some info about the Lumenition system regarding ballast and coil values. There was more than one variation of this and the later ones apparently use a different coil. Turns out my coil is more than double the resistance it should be @ about 3.5 ohms. Apparently I need the MS4 coil with about 1.5 ohms and ballast resistor at about 1.5 ohms This probably should be archived somewhere so others can find it as it took many hours to find the info. Lumenition_Optronic_Description.pdf
  8. I thought the tanks were about 500 pounds each - looks like 260 pounds each on SJ but can't really deal with doing the job at the moment. I recently bought a body kit for the Merc for $1270 US. By the time the conversion rate, shipping, import duty, GST and Customs Broker fees were added it was over $4500 AU. I could get some tanks made locally. I'll probably find out about the pin hole after they're installed. Obviously there will be no leaks before they're installed - that would ruin the surprise. ( you might notice a touch of pessimism starting to creep in ) Regarding the engine it could still be the ignition breaking down when there's boost so still multiple things that could be causing the problem. The engine's only done 47,000 miles so probably would be a waste swapping the engine but it's no where near as drivable as the $1200 Commodore I use as a daily driver.
  9. Thanks Gis, Today I took the inlet hose off the fuel pump to see it any debris came out but as I suspected the fuel can't drain backwards through the pump. I haven't done the bucket test for the flow rate yet but I installed a fuel pressure gauge just before the fuel regulator valve and the pressure was down a bit. Unfortunately I gave it about half a turn before I found the gauge so I don't know what it was originally but it was just under 4 lbs when I put the gauge on. I adjusted it up to 4.5 lbs and drove it for about 10 minutes. It did seem better but started to stutter under load ( boost ) so I got it back home before I got stranded again, so I don't know if it would have stalled. I'll probably have a look for the rev limiter tomorrow but i think it's fuel. I did see some discoloration in the inlet of the pump so there could be something in there. I would have thought the rev limiter would suddenly shut off the ignition, not run rough under load. I'm still using the after market tank in the boot. I won't be changing the tanks. That would turn into a $5000 exercise with shipping and exchange rates. Then try to actually fit them. If I have to do any more major surgery on this thing I'll probably remove the motor bike engine they put in there and use a 3.8 litre V6 that has natural torque, no cam belt and only 2 hoses for the cooling system ( + 2 for the heater ), probably mated to a subaru auto.
  10. I've had the cover above the RH fuel tank off several times and haven't noticed anything like a speed limiter module but maybe there is one there. From the generic circuit in the manual I would presume it shorts the negative signal from the distributor to ground so simply unplugging it should stop it effecting the ignition. Is that correct ?
  11. Would the Lumenition module die then come good again ? Is this a normal problem with these ? I have a hall effect conversion for this distributor but didn't end up using it because of where the distributor is and didn't want to replace the Lotus designed system with a poorer one. It goes from the pick up straight to the coil with no other amplifier. I think it might be this one but can't be 100% sure. It's been sitting in a box for ages. I just used the coil out of it. https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ083M0005.htm I just took this photo of it.
  12. Thanks, I couldn't find them searching in the turbo section. I just got some off the shelf individual leads, also ran them away from the engine instead of being jammed between the head and heat shield in case there was any arcing to the engine occurring. If i change them again i'll probably get these because I hate trying to fit a highly flexible lead boot to a spark plug when I cant get mt hand anywhere near the plugs because of where they've buried them. Too much chance of kinking the new leads.
  13. Thanks Andy, I'll check the spark next time it happens. It has a new Distributor cap and rotor button. This is what I've been through so far :
  14. No it's electric. I think it was this one : https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ082L0002.htm Crimped together so probably not serviceable. I might try reverse flushing it but going on the law of averages another akward messy job that won't fix the problem. I think the high pressure ones are positive displacement roller type that may not allow flushing without the motor turning.
  15. I inspected the tanks using an endoscopic camera and there is some surface rust inside. Before changing fuel tanks I installed a new aluminium tank in the boot area to see if it fixed the problem. It's worse than before. I replaced the fuel filter at the same time as the tank but not the pump. It is now very reliable, as it reliably dies after driving for about 10 - 15 minutes. It was running really well then started to run a bit rough and was loosing power. Then it just stalled. Last time it did this I couldn't start it for about an hour ( tried starting it after about 20 minutes but it wasn't even trying to fire ) It started immediately as soon as the road service guy turned up about an hour later without doing anything. I thought it might be pulling a vacuum in the tank due to a filter restriction I used on the tank vent line . This was there to make sure only air went through the vent line. Today I removed the vent filter but made no difference. It was running well for about 5 - 10 minutes but started to stutter again. This time I made it home but don't know what to do next. Is there some sort of filter inside the fuel pump that could still have some crap from the old fuel tanks ? The car's done about 200 Kms with the current fuel pump. The pump was still running and changes tone when I squash the hose. It seems that it's using up what's in the carbies then dying. To check the fuel pressure do I need to have a gauge before or after the fuel pressure regulator ? The pictures I've seen show a gauge before the regulator only but that seems counter-intuitive. However I don't know if the dual output of the regulator is just a tee inside or 2 independent pressure controlled outputs. I could buy another pump and fuel pressure regulator but need to stop throwing money at it with all the associated lead times replacing parts and not fixing the problem. I've already spent about a month on a wild goose chase replacing and cleaning all the ignition components.
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