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debsdunc

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  • Name
    d heath
  • Car
    s1 elite
  • Location
    beverly

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  1. Didn’t think £10000 as not perfect suppose I can try the market in a couple of months around £6000 mark and if I only get loonies again will keep for another year as galv chassis stainless exhaust it shouldn’t cost me much ! Insurance is nothing so just fuel when I drive it . Thanks for input just shows variation in opinion maybe right person will see it sometime when I’m out once flogged a brooklands with a sign in window while I booted it around 😆
  2. Got no side access so can’t get a garage behind front elevation of house and don’t want to move enjoyed doing it at the time but was younger👨‍🦳
  3. here are a few pictures chassis was Galve and 2packed in black Door was back off because someone told me wrongly you could fit check strap later you cant Regards
  4. Don't need to sell but don't need three cars either its not done to concourse but was done to drive fuel tank/clutch suspension rubbers and trunnions/door beams/ chassis/drive shafts /radiator/cam belt oil seals all the usual failure points were done But this is not concourse and my back is not what it once was so don't like meddling as much as I used to doesn't help that its my job either . Just after a idea of price . Regards
  5. Got a 501 Elite with Galvanised chassis fitted in white that I am thinking of parting with anyone got any idea of price its at 75000 miles every thing done mechanically and was painted 5 years ago' runs well but really needs to go to someone with a garage as I cant get permission for one . Have advertised it last year when stored on blocks (now back on road ) but only got fools and time wasters ? Regards
  6. debsdunc

    debsdunc

  7. ill go with rotor to electrode timing under advance same as the other kid usually see loads of burn on rotor and cap plus possible track marks in cap or sides of coil post good luck
  8. just looked at your location too far for me why don't you ask someone to come and have a listen. sometimes 2 heads are better than one, before you start removing stuff. I would of had a listen if you where near me haven't done anything except marine diesels for 16 years but I served my time on this kinda shit would only of charged you a pint of guiness and a bag of dry roasted peanuts if I found it surely there is someone near you who can have a listen good luck
  9. disconnecting vac unit is like you taking a kilo of valium as piston speeds up burn sequence has to start earlier in order to maintain power within downstroke all you've done is put it to sleep put vac back and run it again to see if its popping in exhaust if it is its losing ignition have cap rotor plugs leads coil all been replaced previous to hoses or after, didn't mean direct water contact meant condensation which forms on plugs and in cap when steam from run up is introduced .if you floated a valve on missed gear change you bend it not buckle stem unless valve head is totally parallel in its relation to piston crown if valves are at angle to piston crown and you had over revved you would have lost a compression you need to clarify what it does hot cold partload full load etc good luck
  10. you answered my post on boot and washer bottle the other night just found your rebuild thread thought I was potty starting with a new chassis well done some serious graft, pissed myself at the kid who said he stood on his wheel centres by accident. well impressed they aint the easiest cars to work on
  11. sounds like you are having fun yet another opinion for you if it pops in exhaust when missing its unburnt fuel in exhaust being ignited as combustion gases ignite stored fuel this is usualy an electrical unit breaking down it is sometimes possible to tell how many cylinders are involved by harshness of misfire will maybe show on kilovolts on scope but may need to be under load.The root cause is probably condensation from changing hoses and run up (no such thing as a coincidence) even when water has gone a track mark has still been created by ignition voltage (will look like a pencil mark on plug or cap or coil or inside plug lead) and ignition voltage will always follow easiest path, plug electrode path tends to be missed for preference of track mark under load check or replace all the units which handle high voltage regards duncan
  12. Thanks for the help everyone didn't realise there was a picture in parts manual have electronic copy. would like to keep as original as possible but cant spend endless amounts so am trying to do 99.9 percent of it myself. Regards Duncan
  13. thanks will look at the link or maybe for owners manual on ebay Regards Duncan
  14. thanks for reply mine has a handmade original jack or tool box that looks as though it goes over battery or wiper motor which is repairable but I don't know how it fits or if it should have a cover on it . Is the rear washer bottle plastic and is it fitted with a steel clip as front mine totally missing regards duncan
  15. new to this but have nearly finished renovation and could do with some photos of boot interior including tool pack and washer bottle position etc. (76 elite 501 now galv chassis) thanks in advance duncan
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