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Mark Wainwright

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  1. cool, thats good! except i`m not sure what kit it is.. the retainer looks like the one i got for a chevette, but i cant be sure the clips are the same size.. the gt6 kit which i used the pins from has totally different clips that i couldnt figure out.. but this image is great to see what i should be looking for. cheers again!
  2. @TAR hey, i dont suppose you also have a shot of how the brake pads are retained in the caliper? ie, the two pins and whatever anti rattle clips/shims are in there? i cant find the right kit. mine has wire anti rattle clips and they don`t seem to fit right.
  3. it wasnt so much to save a few pennies as to find out where they were from.. though i couldnt and still cant find the retaining stuff for pre 85 s3 on SJ`s. however... having tried both kits ( i actually had a vauxhall chevette and a GT6 kit.. neither are exactly right.. its not the vauxhall chevette kit as the pins are too thick.. the gt6 pins are right but the shims in that kit dont have holes in the right place.. and finally, i couldnt work out how to fit the pad spring clips from the triumph kit.. didnt seem right. so i still have incomplete front brakes...
  4. I was under the same impression, but i believe i came upon the chevette stuff from a part number which I cross referenced (I cant be sure but it was a bit of an aha! moment as i was having no real luck finding a fitting kit that looked right from triumph stuff), and discovered the part looks idential to the part in the manual, whereas the spitfire stuff doesn`t look the same, apart from the shims. pads also, similar on triumph but not identical, but possible they fit, though chevette pads from first glance look exactly the same. i`ll verify if the fitting kit is right this week when i go over to the garage. i have both kits to try, a gt6 kit and the chevette one.
  5. Hi all, Ive done some digging around and the fitting kit and pads appear to be from a 75-85 vauxhall chevette. no anti squeal shims in the kit. will verify this when i come to fitting them.
  6. Hi all, Does anyone have a pic/diagram of the brake hose/pipe routing and where the small brackets go on the early S3. its just the bit from the flexible line to caliper I`m not sure about. i have one small metal bracket rusted to the old flexible pipe (and i seem to have lost the other) so not sure how the whole thing routes around the coil springs. cheers, Mark
  7. ok, i guess i`ll leave it then, i`m not sure how bad they are leaking, but I dont have the time for a full rebuild at the mo. what about rear main seal? worth doing I guess as theres no getting at that when the engine is in the car? ta, Mark
  8. Hi all, I`m currently replacing the cam belt, water pump and oil seals on a good running 907 to put in my eclat. so a little overhaul. but i`m just wondering what the best way to remove the cam sprockets and replace the oil seals? I`ve currently got the cambelt, and cam pulleys off at tdc, and replaced the water pump, Ive had the sprockets zip tied together so that I dont move them unexpectedly, but it won`t be enough to keep them in place whilst I undo the sprocket bolts. any tips on doing this and on cam seal replacement afterwards? cheers, Mark
  9. ah, thats brilliant thanks. where did you find that diagram? i swear I looked everywhere!
  10. Hi there, I cant find a digram that matches the fuel system layout of my early S3, seems a bit different to whats in the manual. just wanted to check where i need to look to make sure ive replaced all the soft fuel lines, so far ive just done from the flowlock, via a small filter (replaced the plastic one with an alloy one, i had a plastic one in my eclat and after a year the seal had cracked and it was pouring fuel). before the flowlock valve it is hard steel line, which disappeasrs off behind the engine.. what soft lines are between this and the tanks? cheers, Mark
  11. i have one of these in my eclat -
  12. one other thing I heard can cause a fire is a rupture in the oil line to the oil pressure gauge too, probably less likely than a fuel fire, but still worth looking at i guess?
  13. Hi all, I found this thread about this, but it doesnt have the info i`m after - my left hand pod goes down, but doesnt go up, i suspected the contacts in the unit, but i went over it with a multimeter and they all seem fine, no bad contacts either in the control box area or between the wiring pigtail and the contacts/diodes. both diodes read the same resistance, so i guess if one is ok they both are? If i put the right hand motor in the left hand wiring loom it also works fine. so the relays and wiring loom are ok. so its definitely the left hand motor.. but i`m not sure what else to test inside it that might be wrong. it looks simple enough, and everything seems ok... cheers, Mark
  14. yeah, some of the bolts and studs will be grade 8 (possibly higher), ive put a grade 8 (?) on that list where i think they will be high strength and thus not stainless. ta!
  15. ive gone through SJ`s page and extracted what info i can, but theres lots that dont have info as to what they are. if anyone can flesh out the actual specs of the nuts and bolts ive posted below that would be great if known.. it would be kinda cool to put together a full suspension set of stainless and appropriate grade 8 nuts and bolts where they are standard sizes. if we get the full set of info i`ll add it all to my esprit interchange spreadsheet that i have on here. front suspension- ? thin lock nut ? wishbone washer (special large O/D either side of bushes) ? bolt grade 8 - damper to lower wishbone ? bolt - anti roll bar to chassis ? bolt grade 8 - lower wishbone pivot ? bolt - front disc to hub ? bolts - caliper to vertical link M8 nylocs - top ball joints M8 grade 8 bolt long - top ball joint M8 grade 8 bolt short - top ball joint flat washers 1/2 x 1 inch nyloc nut 1/2 unf (T / BS thin) 7/16 unf nyloc nut (trunnion bolt) rear suspension bolt - radius arm to mounting thin lock nut for stud upright m10 x 120mm grade 8 bolt - radius arm to uptight (early, later is 130mm) washer - 7/16 x 2inch - one each side of radius arm mount flat washers 1/2 x 1 inch Flat washers, 1/2 inch x 1.25 M12 nut, DRIVESHAFT ADAPTER/DISC to GEARBOX nyloc nut 1/2 unf (T / BS thin) bolt m12 grade 8 (length?) - radius arm to rubber mounting Bolt grade 8? (length?) - top link to rear upright bolt grade 8? (length?) - lower link to chassis ? BOLT, TOP LINK to CHASSIS for LATER (approx 1982) MODELS ? BOLT, TOP LINK to CHASSIS for Earlier (approx before 1982) MODELS ? LARGE SPACING WASHER, (Each side of link bushes) ? DRIVESHAFT BOLT cheers!
  16. anyone know if these interchange with anything? (they must do right?) i saw a pistonheads thread discussing it but the poster couldnt find a BL one the same, so may be something else?
  17. Hi there, I`m redoing the front suspension and brakes on my 85 S3 and I think it would be wise to buy a big bag of stainless nuts and nylocs to cover anything i need to take off (looks like most of it) and replace, what sizes are used in general if im going to buy a greb bag? rather than trying to guess wwhat ill be taking off and buying then from sj or wherever? Its all pretty rusty under there and looks like a lot of the nuts and bolts have turned back into to iron nuggets. cheers, Mark
  18. hi guys, what bolts should i get to attach the 907 to a regular engine stand? length i can work out from my stand but whats the thread (bellhousing bolts)? Ta, Mark
  19. done, and transplanted what i had in the parts column to the series/year column. obviously some of this is a bit unclear in things like changeover years 84/85 s3 etc but hopefully with enough people who have the cars editing it it`ll be pretty accurate eventually.
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