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Everything posted by AJay

  1. Trevor I have just completed the removal and replacement (with SE manifold) with the engune in the car, i had to remove the LHS engine mount bracket and jack the engine up a few inches, but it is possible to do it in the car... To be honest though i did have perfect stainless nuts on all the studs that were replaced 4 years ago, if the nuts are less than perfect then i think it would be an engine out job and especialy if you had to split any of the nuts. If you ever take the engine out i recommend replacing the nuts just in case..
  2. Hi This is what i used for about 3years before i chargecooled and fitted an electronic controller. It is not a bleed valve, It has a ball bearing inside that blocks the pressure from the diaphram until the spring pressure (Adjustable) is overcome, then the boost pressure is fed to the capsule, i have found that this prevented wastegate creep and maximum boost was achieved earlier. it is fitted by cutting the pipe from the turbo to waste gate and fitting in line. Previous to chargecooling i only used it to fine tune the boost to the correct boost level. I do like Clay's solution though and it can be set up with out opening the engine bay, nice.
  3. Try bacK flushing the heater matrix, the sediment in the cooling system likes to gather at the matrix, mine needs back flushing every couple of years, same symptoms as you have experienced, worth a try as its a lot easier than removing the valve (from experience).
  4. The turbo G car is right on the limits of detonation by design with 4 star leaded, although Lotus approved the cars for use with unleaded it was recommended for longevity to run on 4 star (higher octane). Although there will not be any damage to the valve seats by using unleaded, you will suffer from detonation unless super is used (especialy in sustained periods of WOT i.e track or motorway driving). You pays your money your take your choice!!!!!
  5. I have done it on my 84, I used the SE aircon/chargecooler rad up front and used 15mm copper pipe to run on brackets again in the airflow under the car to give better cooling.
  6. have a look at the sanyo Xacti HD2,390...49289478,00.htm I borrowed one for my holiday and the 720p hd is stunning, so is the 7.1 megapixel stills all onto a 8Gb memory card almost 2 hours at 720p and for
  7. whoops, sorry to hear that, but it happened to me twice before i realised why....... detonation destroying the pistons in my case, hence all the mods. The LC engine is right on the limit with standard boost, if you have to rebuild and still want all the performance then i am afraid you will have to upgrade if its going to last more than 5 minutes. Fingers crossed its only a valve or two.
  8. It looks the same as the otter switch which controls the fans on an S3 turbo, i replaced mine with a part from a motor factors which i think came from an MGB. it was slightly different but fitted in the rubber seal, the clip did not fit but i secuured it with a cable tie (not needed but a precaution) and i had to make an adapter lead for the connections. It was about the quater of the price of the lotus part. If i can find the part number i will post it for you.
  9. If your boost is noticably higher but the gauge still shows .5 bar then suspect a leak in the boost line to the gauge. I run .75 bar and when i had a leak in this line i only got .5 on the gauge. My engine is far from standard the standard boost for your engine should not be any more than .6bar (8psi). to achievd a reliable .75bar i have fitted SE piston and liners, a chargecooler, rejetted the carbs, improved the cooling through the head, fitted a triple core radiator, fully mapable ignition system and colder spark plugs. You would probably see about 10 bhp per 1psi increase more with chargecooling (I am sure that there will be loads that disagree). If you realy want to increase the boost you must look at the timing, Lotus technical recomend no more than 20 degrees dropping back to 19 at max torque. Hope this helps.
  10. Check the tyre pressures, The first time i had my tyres changed the garage put in 35 psi in the rears (should be 25 psi) and the car felt lethal in a straight line at 70mph. So much that i took it back to the garage as i thought they had not done the wheels up. The chassis is that sensitive to tyre type and pressure. also as mentioned above i would get the same tyres on the rear ASAP. apart from anything else the differential will be taking a hammering as one wheel will always be turning faster than the other. Probably wont do any harm but better safe than sorry.
  11. Hi Pete I have a set of vacuum gauges that connect directly to the carbs. If you want to PM me you can pop over and i can have a look for you.
  12. I dismantled the instruments and coated the inside with aluminium tape to reflect the light, then drilled 4 holes in the base of the cases and in serted the LED's from bottom (similar to the origional bulb). this works really well on the tacho and the speedo. on the boost gauge i removed the bulb which is on the side and replaced it with an LED. (Pictures in my garage, sorry don,t have them to hand on this PC). I haven't done the other minor gauges yet as just replacing the bulb with and LED dosen't work on those. I am very happy with the result and the gauges are as bright as you would expect from a modern car.
  13. looks like just the two of us!! i will see you at yours at 9ish
  14. What time are we meeting on Monday?
  15. Nope No tensioner, you wind it over similar to putting a chain on a sprocket.....
  16. If you loose your vacuum pump, you'll need another method of tensioning the belt. The G cars have a belt that just drives the water pump with no tensioner, this should fit as the distance between the crank pulley and the water pump should be the same.
  17. SCC082910DHD11821 Silver S3 turbo Portsmouth England
  18. Yeh your right, i put my glasses on and had another look. Still its a good story!!!!!!
  19. That looks to me like a standard S3 with turbo side skirts and front spoiler added, not too difficult a job to do aftermarket. The rear spoiler doesn't look any different than a standard S3 to me. The spoiler on the turbo cars is integral to the body shell, and is well nigh impossible to retro fit to a NA car without major surgery, so that probably explains why that hasn't been done. I remember ElTel has Paul C's first Esprit which was an NA with turbo parts, see here.... It is a turbo rear spoiler, I don't know how true it is but when Giugario designed the turbo he put the spoiler on and the engineers thought that this would upset the balance of the car, but chapman would not let them change the design so the engineers put a gurney strip across the top of the roof on the rear lovers to make the rear spoiler all but useless. With the glass rear hatch on this could upset the high speed balance of the car......... Just my 2p worth.
  20. Before adjusting spring pressure check to make sure you do not have an air leak, if you have blown a seal on the inlet manifold you could have another leak somewhere.
  21. They look like HC Piston and liners. There is no problem replacing the damaged pistons only as long as they are the lotus ones, to be honest without balancing the rest of the engine the small difference in the piston weight will have little effect if any. The damage to that piston looks like detonation, is it number 4 by any chance? When you remove it can you clean it up and post pictures, If it is detonation you will have to sort this once the rebuild is complete or you will be in for another....I speak from experience. If you would like to have a chat about it and the saga to reduce it PM me and i will give you my number. Too long a story to post!!!! Andy
  22. I got mine from a local motor factors, original was 10 PSI the new one is 15 PSI and it is written on the cap. I will try to find a reference for you if you still have problems getting one.
  23. You will need the latter mount for the Aircon pump as this is drilled and taped for the latter tensioner.
  24. Classic symptons of a head gasket, but check the Rad cap first, i had the same problem and thought it was the head gasket (again) but as a final check i replaced the rad cap and every thing was fine :0). If its not sealing properly or holding the pressure then this would allow the temperature to rise and the loss of water. Good luck
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