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Everything posted by AJay

  1. The engine cover needs some work for clearance issues and some slight fettling on the tail gate. If you can get into the garage section (i can't anymore) you can look at my installation
  2. Sorry i can't come and help, Still trying to rebuild my wreck of a car while keeping the marriage together!!! Payment on its way.
  3. Sorry been away.. The issue with number 4 is that it does not get cooled as efficiently as the rest, hence the cooling Mod... The HC engine got a higher capacity water pump different inlet manifold with cooling mods and a restrictor in the water flow exiting the head (to water pump) these Mods helped with the detonation and along with 45's different ignition timing, nicosil liners and different pistons allowed the increase in boost. However even these engines show signs of detonation after a period of time. The only high mileage engine that i have seen with no signs of detonation is an SE 78,000 miles. however i have never seen a US spec fuel injection engine. The timing spec for the LC domestic engine are 12 BTDC increasing to 28 deg at 3500rpm. HC domestic is 10 deg BTDC increasing to 21 deg at 2000rpm then dropping back to 18 Deg at 5000rpm. Sorry to sound like an anorack but it is a heavily researched subject dear to my heart..........
  4. SI don't panic.... I can't see properly from the pics, but the impeller vanes on turbos vary quite a lot.. yours or simons may have been rebuilt and a different impeller used.. if all the vanes look the same chances are they are alright and are not damaged. when they go the damage is normally quite obvious. With regard to the play, all turbos will have play, the oil pressure is what keeps then in line and you have just tested yours without any. It may be worn, but if it was not smoking before you took it off the road and you were happy with the performance why worry now. One day it will require a rebuild but it is easy to get at and can be removed without too mush grief. Don't be lead down the concourse path (if you don't want to) all cars wear as soon as they are started at the factory, as i said before your car is 23 years old that is a lot for any car. Do as little or as much as you want then get it back on the road and enjoy it, it will break down again' but thats half the fun (i think!!!!!!!) Andy
  5. Si It's worth carrying on...... the old girl is 24years old now, there aren't many cars that old on the road. there is going to be corrosion on thin walled ali pipe after 24years. But by the time you have finished your car will be more reliable than most, think of all us unfortunates that carry on regardless with all these time bombs waiting to go off. I have been let down on runs by loss of water etc, wish i had the time to do it. Keep up the fight you will win eventually........
  6. Hmmmm I couldn't fine it.... Still its out now Its going to be replaced with an internal invisible one and the mounting hole filled
  7. I have just removed mine from the drivers side wing, i had to remove the door to get it out. the service manual does state that on later cars (chassis number stated) had a removable panel on the inside to access the ariel all others have to remove the door. Get a friend to held it aint fun on your own.
  8. It would not very wise to increase the boost unless carrying out other modifications to the engine. especially the LC lump. It always was on the edge of reliability and increasing the boost and not changing the timing and or fuel jets sizes WILL detonate number 4 piston to death in pretty quick time I have two rebuilds under my belt for this very reason. Lotus Technical team even suggests that the timing should be no more than 20 deg btdc dropping back to about 18 at max torque point. The Dom s3 turbo goes to 28 degrees on a standard distributer. It would be a very brave man than held wide open throttle for more than a few seconds on a standard engine with more than standard Boost.
  9. SI I can't tell from the pictures but are all the marks in the same place give or take? it could be the markings put in by Lotus as usually the pistons are are weight matched in sets and i can't see any other markings on them to identify this. Also please get some clamps on those liners, if they move you will get a leak when you have lovingly rebuilt you engine. Clamps are not difficult to make, you could use large washers on the studs and a length of tube over the stud up to the thread then use a head nut to bolt it all down.
  10. The main differences are a higher capacity water pump, a different inlet manifold and restricted outlet on the front of the cylinder head. Lotus recommend that i upgraded these components when discussing the Knock problem that i was experiencing with my LC motor running HC piston and liners. They introduce a modified cooling system for Turbos Technical service Bulletin 1987/26 to provide "increased colling systems safety margin in extreme conditions" this was a factory recall for 85MY on but not for US turbos, and i notice that a full kit is available in the sale for
  11. I would go for B if it was my car: although if the G-box has been removed then the nylotron washer could be missing, this would allow the input shaft to weld itself to the crank. (possible with the PO knowledge or lack of it). However if it was fine when parked up then it has to be B Good Luck
  12. As fishy says my car is not standard, and the more power produced generaly means more heat....... The main reason for extra cooling is track days. Under normal (road driving) temperature is pegged at 90 Deg but under track driving where full throttle as held for a high pertcentage of time it creaps up this then brings on detonation.... not healthy for the wallet. As the car is undergoing a few repairs i am taking the opertunty to improve the cooling with a higher capacity rad and increasing the airflow. Lotus recognised the cooling limitations Hence the front valance on the HC. Thanks for all the input, i am still undecided as i now have access to a geniune HC valance, but i am struggling with the rad ducts...... One step forward.....
  13. The front fiberglass bumper definately has wood! Here are some pics of one that i am restoring. Ok i can only post the one (computers, i think i'm to old for them)
  14. I know what you mean i have to look at the boss's car every day. It sound as good as it looks.
  15. Si You realy must remove the tensioner and overhaul it. You can get to it, i remove mine every two years when i do the belt. The casing that holds the bearing fractures and then the whole assembly falls of with one wrecked engine as a result. The detailing looks great, but it will all be a waste of time if the tensioner fails an wrecks the motor. Keep up the good work AJ
  16. Hi Cliff I went saw took photos thanks. As I am goimg to be modifing an origional valance I have a number of choices. I would like some opinions from fellow enthusiasts, which do you prefer?
  17. I am in the process of carrying out some modifications, one of which is increasing the efficiency of the cooling system. I would like to fit an HC front valance and ad Duct but at a staggering
  18. Quick update, the G-box is off with the aid of a pair of mole grips on the release fork and a very large jimmy bar. Thanks for your input.
  19. We tried for two hours to align the gbox, but i think where there was quite a bit of force applied to the bell housing before we realised the problem the front plate mat have slipped. Thanks for the input with the alen bolts i think that is going to be the answer. I'll post to let you know the out come Cheers
  20. Ok so it is always helpful to read ALL of the manual before hand!! A good friend of mine has a terminal noise coming from his V8, so we have pulled the motor to break it down to have a look. All goes well and the engine and g-box is sittng one the floor a quick read of the manual and it says undo the bolts and seperate the G-box from the engine..... So all bolts are undone and the g-box comes off about 2 inches the stops... Turns out after reading more of the manual that the release fork need to be removed (before seperating the G-box) its now stuck, now we can't align the box to get it back on enough to provide the necessary slack in the fork to remove it. Has anyone made this fundimental mistake and how do we correct it. BTW its a 96MY if this makes a difference.
  21. I had an off at Goodwood and Classicline have refused to honour the claim, its in the hands of the Financial ombudsman at the moment, More details when politicaly correct to publish them. My only comment at this point is don't worry about the cost of insurance, its the value that counts and at this moment in time i waisted my premium with classicline and could possably lose the car as well!!!!!!!
  22. I had the same problem earlier this year, fault traced to a stipped thread in the head (i probably over torqued it when the engine was last out two, years ago!!). to fix it i had to take off the cam carrier and helicoil (put a thread insert in) the stripped thread. Not a very easy job but possible with the engine in the car. If you clean the area with a helthy dose of brake cleaner then start the car while looking up from under the car you should be able to see it bubbling out by the offending bolt!! Good luck.
  23. I Have just had the wonderful News that although I thought I was covered for track day insurance, it appears that because some incompetent brain dead admin girl (not a sexist comment , she was a girl) Did not record our conversation that I was attending a club run track day, I am not covered for the accident that I unfortunately had. The wonderful company concerned CLASSICLINE what a bunch of w
  24. I agree sounds like fuel starvation. Check fuel pressure regulator should be 4-4.5 psi on tick over. and remain 4 psi above boost pressure. Also check float hieght 1mm out can make a lot of difference when on boost.
  25. The one that i've fitted is the one in the article from Wayne. Thanks wayne saves me climbing underneath for a photo session.
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