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  1. I have been running 10 psi and have recorded 70-90mph in 5.48secs. After you lot frightening me about the tranny i reduced the boost to 9psi and recorded a 70-90 time in 5.8 secs not a big difference but the difference in the way the car drives and delivers the power is quite noticable. Not sure where i am going with the boost, the extra tourque is adictive but!!!!!!!!!
  2. I am probably wrong, as it is not the conventional view. may be i need to read more and stop driving the car. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
  3. The HC engine has an overboost switch set at 12psi which cuts the ignition if an overboost situation occurs, could be plumbed into your boost gauge line if you are worried about overboost. The lotus valve thingy is called a dump valve by Lotus technical it is designed as a relief valve for overboost and is set at 10Psi so robin you will have to remove this if you want boost higher than 10 psi. Also like everything on the car it only sticks if it not used. the origional boost of 8 Psi should not release the valve under normal conditions. When running at 9.5 Psi it operates at spirited driving conditions between gear changes. I have tested mine and it actualy operates at 11psi so not too accurate. Hope this helps.
  4. You are right of course. I do try to be sympathetic to the needs of the gear box,(no 0-60times and not pinning the throttle until 3rd gear, not using more than 5500rpm, smooth gear changes heal toe etc), but hey its gonna break some day might as well enjoy breaking it.
  5. Good point, as i said only an opinion and i have seen turbine shafts snap with BOV's fitted (could be coincidence). But if the pressure takes time to build again as you suggest then this would cause lag when throttle pinned again!! would it not. I am probably wrong, as it is not the conventional view. may be i need to read more and stop driving the car.
  6. Yes it can Yes it is (If you find the parts cheap enough) Yes i have Not yet. I an running at 10 PSI i have not broken any thing yet (probably will) the car has been on the rollers and re jetted to take higher boost. Carried out performance tests and 70-90mph in 5th gear time is now down from 8.4sec standard LC car to 5.48sec. Also running with SE piston and liners.
  7. Yes Glyn you are right i only have the standard Dump valve on the engine. I have driven cars with BOV's and the Whoosh at slow speeds is annoying (to me) at low revs and sounds like the no 10 buss coming down the road. I am running 10 Psi boost and the standard lotus Dump valve works perfectly. At low to medium throttle the over boost situation is controlled and there is no whooosh, however when really going for it the whoooosh is present for a very short period between gear changes. Now its only an opinion but the LOTUS dump valve releases just enough pressure to take the over boost pressure off the turbine blades and shuts again when pressure equalises to the set boost thus reducing the shock loading on the blades by keeping them under a relatively constant pressure. As throttle is opened then boost is already in the plenum thus no lag. Now a BOV releases ALL the pressure to atmosphere thus unloading the compressor blades. the stored inertia in the blades must then speed up the rotor to above or close to it the designed maximum rpm. when the throttle is opened the BOV shuts thus applying full boost back to the turbine blades Result high shock loading on the blades. I have seen turbine shafts snap with BOVs Fitted. I know my argument has faults, but, under such light boost as 10 PSI i am pretty sure that the arguments are academic. It all comes down to whooosh or not to whooosh. I would take the vacuum feed off the grub screw in the rear Carb manifold if i was fitting one.
  8. Troy My 84 Turbo is the same as yours!!!
  9. You could always buy a Ford Last time i checked the Jack was secured properly
  10. The SE pistons are forged with a chrome plating on the top which is more durable than the standard Ali. however the cylinder head still remains Ali and can not take too muck Knock (detonation). Something to do with the shock wave removing the Gas cusion between the surface of the cylinder head and the hot explosion.(only what i have read) The onset of Knock can be due to a number of issues including Ignition timing Cylinder head temperature Spark plug type/ Temp Boost Presure (excessive) Charge temperature Compression ratio (too high) Octane rating of fuel Etc. Etc So fishy the exact temerature that knock happens depends on a number of variables and can not be given, The temerature is more of a guide and if you can compare pre Charge cooler Temp with post Charge cooler Temp you can at least have a guide to how well your Charge cooler is working. There is some were in my pile of books some sort of Scientific explination that gives temperatures, from memory i think this is in the region of 90 deg C but i will try and dig it out for you and post the info.
  11. The earth strap is there to remove the electrical charge in the coolent, if this is not done it will slowly eat the core of your chargecooler!!!(works on the same principal as a battery) This is the same reason why it is recommended to replace your engine coolent in the service intervals!
  12. Looking good. I agree it does look the part and looking at the Auto art 1:18 scale models they all have black trim. I have the drivers side trim if any one wants a sample!!!
  13. Just had my screen replaced by National Windscreens, they can still get the drivers side moulding but thats all, managed to save the other two although the quality is not quite there (a few ripples) Apparently the Stevens mouldings will fit but you can only get the top moulding. You will have to get three and cut two to fit. I was quoted
  14. Hi Simon I have always wanted to put a G body on an SE. Go for it if the price is right, but the residual will probably not be as good. Just for info the picture of the engine cover is not of a good standard and probably reflects the rest of the conversion. This is the picture of my newly finished charge cooler conversion i hope this will give you a good comparison of what is possible. Sorry not enough space for good pic check out my garage for a better quality image. AJ
  15. Chris if you are taking the g-box off (sound idea) don't forget to make sure the nylatron (not sure of the spelling) washer is on the end of the input shaft or it will weld itself to the crankshaft.
  16. I've had to replace piston and liners twice and belive me it is far easier with the engine out. Once the linear have been reinstalled the "NIB" (how far the linear protrudes from the block needs to be measured) if this is not correct (dirt on the sealing faces or a nick in the block when removing the linear) Then you will be replacing the head gasket inthe not too distant future. The engine can be removed in a morning complete with gear box. Its not that difficult and if you don't want to cause yourself more trouble it is the only way!!!!!!
  17. Thanks I am based in portsmouth, I will be phoning around this week to see if anynoe can do it! I have heard that screens are a bit difficult to get hold of and that the fitters have a few problems with the interior trim. (not sure if this is true). I am not too worried about the chrome trim, thinking about changing it for the Stevens black trim (no other chrome on the car) Does anyone know if it fits? On a plus note I got the last piece of the chargecooler jigsaw today so quite happy. Now I just have to find the time!!!. AJ
  18. Hi guys Got the esprit out of the garage today to do some work on it and notice a 12inch crack in the front screen. Great . Does anyone have any recommendations for changing the front screen on a "G" car. I hear that it isn't straight forward. AJ
  19. HI Brent I am looking for an engine cover for an S3 turbo have you still got one? regards Andy
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