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Everything posted by AJay

  1. What are your tyre pressures? should be 25 psi rear 21 front (from memory) if they are filled to 35 psi which most garages seem to do then it does feel out of sorts in the corners...... worth a check.
  2. Fit the chargecooler, you will need a custom made adaptor but it will give you more room for your water pipe. Second thoughts it might be easier to use the HC inlet manifold and then use the proper adaptor, i am still usig the LC water pump so this made sense at the time....
  3. I used to run my 84 turbo on a daily basis without an engine cover, when it rained no 4 and 3 spark plug holes filled with water and i would get a horrible miss fire until it all dried out 40 miles plus. it was a night mare.
  4. That i like a lot, keeps the car origional (sort of) but cleans up the lines. Very nice use of paint! May be lose the mirrors...
  5. 27mm is the correct level. the float hight is a starting point, and yes 2mm will make a big difference. This is a very good site:
  6. I am no expert however i have asked one and he says, If the reciever Drier is not replace regularly (every four years i think), then the bags of silica that takes the water from the system can split, these will then flow round the system and could block the expansion valve and stop the system from working. Everything else will look ok, ie correct amount of oil and gas... but the flow will be very poor. It is located up under the passager foot well and is a pig to replace, (not too Expensive though).
  7. AH mis read the post, yes to the aircon/chargcooler rad and tripple core main rad but only a single oil cooler although larger than standard, but not two.....
  8. Here is a shot of the PNM/Hispec billet 4 upgrade fitted it today, still bedding in but oh so much better than the standard brake setup. I remove and clean the calipers every year as part of the service, and thought that the brakes were good, this year i developed some nasty vibration caused by the pads rusting to the disk (long story) any way as i needed new disks i took the opertunity to upgrade and WOW what a difference. (It might be that i have been living with the vibration for too long). well worth the money, especialy if you need new components to the existing system. The kit keeps th
  9. The finished item This can then be reinstalled in the car with the case attatched to origional fixing as this provides the ground throught the case. The Voltage stabiliser filter (a small black box installed between the regulator and the instruments) can now be removed, this was used to proved the instrumenst with something resembling a smooth dc supply. The whole cost of this conversion was 49p The voltage regulator came from CPC I now have rock solid water temp and fuel gauges
  10. I have been experiencing increasing problems with my temperature gauge and fuel gauge and have decided to do something about it. After some investigation i found that the gauges operate a a regulated 10volts, this is controled by a very archaic device called a voltage stabiliser........ The Smiths voltage stabiliser is a mechanical voltage regulator that reduces and maintains the instrument operating voltage at 10v dc. Inside the stabiliser is a bimetallic strip, an insulated heating wire coil, and contact points. 1) The contact points are located inside the stabiliser housing. One side of
  11. Hope this helps
  12. Fuel Pressure Should be 4.0 PSI +- .5 psi so 4.5 is at the top end of what is acceptable. From experience with mine 4.5 is too high and allows the carbs to flood. I have mine set to just below 4.psi. The pressure should remain constant at 4-5 psi above boost pressure, so at 8.5 psi boost your fuel pressure should be 12.5-13.5 psi. I connected a gauge to my fuel line and got a friend to watch it from the passenger seat as i drove down the road calling out boost pressure.
  13. Hi Johnathan Does this help?? I can confirm that there is no clearance problems, i had to do this as it is a g-car so no chance of going through the chassis.
  14. Hi Brandt Just a thought, but are you sure that the carbs are for a turbo. The turbo carbs have a ball bearing that shuts off the pump curcit when on boost, also check the pressurisation of the fuel bowl, if there is a leak and the bowls are not pressurising uner boost this could lead to a lean condition. However i would not have thought that it would go rich at the top end if this was the case. Worth a check. Andy
  15. Er Thanks just what i need, should have looked first....... Andy
  16. Jon Slightly off topic, but you couldn't do a boost vs timing advance graph could you? Andy
  17. I would check the voltage at the fuel pump under load And possibly try another pump. If the pump is falling short on pressure then engine will run lean..... the ECU will compensate and increase the duty cycle of the injectors, but because you dont have much pressure the fuel runs out rather than being sprayed out, this will then not combust and you will get very bad fuel economy and poor performance. Not sure if this will show up on the freescan log, but i had a similar on an old Merc that i used to own and it took a while to find, Of course i may be talking a load of Bollocks but i would g
  18. A word of warning, if the Dellortos have been replaced with Webbers then walk away.... the Dellortos are especially made for the turbo and are sealed in places that the Webbers are not. Under boost conditions there is a good chance that fuel will leak onto the distributor (the most common fire hazard in the Esprit). This is more likely to ruin your day than the electric windows or mirrors..
  19. That depends on the condition of the bushes. mine have not been changed in 13 years, i just change the bearing every 2 years with the belt. I always strip the tensioner and inspect it though as they have been known to crack. So far so Good..... If you are thinking of changing to the round profile make sure you get the right pulleys as the cam timming was different of some of the later cars.
  20. 8 hours seems a bit excessive to me, it takes me about 4 hours including rebuilbing the automatic tensioner, (it is false economy not to replace the tensioner bearing with every belt, Sj sports cars are very reasonable on bearing prices). the locking pin is not strickly necessary for removal, however it helps a lot on fitting the new belt. i use a drill bit!!!
  21. I would first remove the terminals from the battery and clean all the terminals with a scotch brite pad, connect them back up and try again, if your have electrics but it only clicks when the starter is called for it is usually a resistance problem on your terminals. a starter can draw hunderds of amps on initial start and a small reistance will cause a big volt drop. i.e v=IXR so a resistance of 1ohm X 100 amps will have a voltage drop across the battery of 100 volts hence no electrics, but then they return when you release the starter.
  22. I use stainless steel aeroquip nuts, as per lotus spec but in A4 stainless as they are available locally at
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