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AJay

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Posts posted by AJay

  1. I am no expert however i have asked one and he says,

    If the reciever Drier is not replace regularly (every four years i think), then the bags of silica that takes the water from the system can split, these will then flow round the system and could block the expansion valve and stop the system from working.

    Everything else will look ok, ie correct amount of oil and gas... but the flow will be very poor.

    It is located up under the passager foot well and is a pig to replace, (not too Expensive though).

  2. Here is a shot of the PNM/Hispec billet 4 upgrade fitted it today, still bedding in but oh so much better than the standard brake setup.

    I remove and clean the calipers every year as part of the service, and thought that the brakes were good, this year i developed some nasty vibration caused by the pads rusting to the disk (long story) any way as i needed new disks i took the opertunity to upgrade and WOW what a difference. (It might be that i have been living with the vibration for too long). well worth the money, especialy if you need new components to the existing system.

    The kit keeps the balance of the brakes and the disk is the same size, but vented.

    SANY0065.jpg

    SANY0069.jpg

  3. The finished item

    DSC01297-Copy.jpg

    This can then be reinstalled in the car with the case attatched to origional fixing as this provides the ground throught the case.

    The Voltage stabiliser filter (a small black box installed between the regulator and the instruments) can now be removed, this was used to proved the instrumenst with something resembling a smooth dc supply.

    The whole cost of this conversion was 49p

    The voltage regulator came from CPC

    http://cpc.farnell.com/stmicroelectronics/...equestid=531009

    I now have rock solid water temp and fuel gauges :)

  4. I have been experiencing increasing problems with my temperature gauge and fuel gauge and have decided to do something about it. After some investigation i found that the gauges operate a a regulated 10volts, this is controled by a very archaic device called a voltage stabiliser........

    The Smiths voltage stabiliser is a mechanical voltage regulator that reduces and maintains the instrument operating

    voltage at 10v dc. Inside the stabiliser is a bimetallic strip, an insulated heating wire coil, and contact points.

    1) The contact points are located inside the stabiliser housing. One side of the points is on the “B” terminal, the

    other side is on one end of the bimetallic strip attached to the “I” terminal.

    2) The bimetallic strip carries current between the contact points and the “I” terminal.

    3) The heating wire coil is wound around the bimetallic strip. It is connected between the contact point on the

    bimetallic strip and chassis ground.

    “E” terminal (ground or Earth)

    “I” terminal (to Instruments)

    “B” terminal (from Battery) Contact Points (inside, not visible

    When the ignition switch is turned on, the “B” terminal sees full battery voltage. Initially the stabiliser points are closed.

    Current is carried across the contact points, through the bimetallic strip, and provided to the “I” terminal. Thus, when the

    ignition is first turned on, full battery voltage appears on the “I” terminal of the stabiliser. Remember that one end of the

    heating wire is also attached to the contact point on the bimetallic strip. Thus, when the ignition is switched on, current

    also begins to flow through the heating wire to chassis ground. The resulting heat causes the bimetallic strip to change

    shape and “open” the points. This breaks the current flowing to the “I” terminal and through the heating wire. The

    voltage on the “I” terminal drops to zero (0) volts when the points open and the heating wire cools. Without heat the

    bimetallic strip returns to its original shape closing the points. This restores current flow to the “I” terminal and the

    heating wire. The cycle repeats several times a second.

    The result of this on-off cycling produces a reduced “average” voltage on the “I” terminal. The voltage is not a steady

    10v, but switching occurs with a frequency that approximates 10v. Because of this fast switching, it is virtually

    impossible to measure the operating voltage of a stabiliser directly using a volt-ohm meter.

    Now for the interesting bit.......

    All the above can be replaced with a little device called a 10volt regulator

    DSC01292.jpg

    This little device can be fitted within the old Stabiliser for an origional look

    DSC01288.jpg

    The old unit can be dismantled by bending back the tabs on the side of the casing and removing the bottom section.

    DSC01289-Copy.jpg

    This shows the old bimetalic strip as discussed above.

    This is bimetalic strip is removed and the regulator replaces it being soldered to the contacts.

    DSC01294.jpg

    DSC01295.jpg

    Carefully place the circuit board back into the housing. Use pliers to gently fold the sheet metal back to secure it.

    DO NOT allow the short wire to become pinched.

    DSC01296.jpg

    Test your work. Connect your vehicle’s ground to the case of the stabilizer. Connect battery voltage to the “B”

    terminal. Connect a volt-ohm meter between the “I” terminal and chassis ground. If you do not observe 10v

    you will need to open the unit up and check the circuit again.

  5. Fuel Pressure Should be 4.0 PSI +- .5 psi so 4.5 is at the top end of what is acceptable.

    From experience with mine 4.5 is too high and allows the carbs to flood. I have mine set to just below 4.psi.

    The pressure should remain constant at 4-5 psi above boost pressure, so at 8.5 psi boost your fuel pressure should be 12.5-13.5 psi.

    I connected a gauge to my fuel line and got a friend to watch it from the passenger seat as i drove down the road calling out boost pressure.

  6. Hi Brandt

    Just a thought, but are you sure that the carbs are for a turbo. The turbo carbs have a ball bearing that shuts off the pump curcit when on boost, also check the pressurisation of the fuel bowl, if there is a leak and the bowls are not pressurising uner boost this could lead to a lean condition. However i would not have thought that it would go rich at the top end if this was the case. Worth a check.

    Andy

  7. I would check the voltage at the fuel pump under load And possibly try another pump.

    If the pump is falling short on pressure then engine will run lean..... the ECU will compensate and increase the duty cycle of the injectors, but because you dont have much pressure the fuel runs out rather than being sprayed out, this will then not combust and you will get very bad fuel economy and poor performance.

    Not sure if this will show up on the freescan log, but i had a similar on an old Merc that i used to own and it took a while to find, Of course i may be talking a load of Bollocks but i would give it a go.....

  8. A word of warning, if the Dellortos have been replaced with Webbers then walk away.... the Dellortos are especially made for the turbo and are sealed in places that the Webbers are not. Under boost conditions there is a good chance that fuel will leak onto the distributor (the most common fire hazard in the Esprit). This is more likely to ruin your day than the electric windows or mirrors..

  9. hi andy,is it just the bearing you change is there bushes etc or just swap the bearing with the new one,i spoke too paul matty cars ,they said they just supply the bearing now and no kit which is obselste,2 year ago i bought the bearing and idler kit from chris neil,i have now bought a lotus belt from paul matty so i will buy a bearing,and the idler will be ok am i right thanks

    That depends on the condition of the bushes. mine have not been changed in 13 years, i just change the bearing every 2 years with the belt. I always strip the tensioner and inspect it though as they have been known to crack. So far so Good.....

    If you are thinking of changing to the round profile make sure you get the right pulleys as the cam timming was different of some of the later cars.

  10. 8 hours seems a bit excessive to me, it takes me about 4 hours including rebuilbing the automatic tensioner, (it is false economy not to replace the tensioner bearing with every belt, Sj sports cars are very reasonable on bearing prices). the locking pin is not strickly necessary for removal, however it helps a lot on fitting the new belt. i use a drill bit!!!

  11. I would first remove the terminals from the battery and clean all the terminals with a scotch brite pad, connect them back up and try again, if your have electrics but it only clicks when the starter is called for it is usually a resistance problem on your terminals. a starter can draw hunderds of amps on initial start and a small reistance will cause a big volt drop. i.e v=IXR so a resistance of 1ohm X 100 amps will have a voltage drop across the battery of 100 volts hence no electrics, but then they return when you release the starter.

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