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AJay

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Posts posted by AJay

  1. i had the same problem on a belt change a number of years ago, turned out that the belt was too loose.

    I now have a Burroughs gauge and the correct reading is too tight i.e belt whines when engine cold, so i now set it with the Burroughs gauge then adjust so that the belt just whines when engine at operational temp.

    three belts under this procedure and no failures or wear on the belt or pulleys.

  2. This question comes up every so often.

    I have spoken to Lotus technical and was informed that all 910 engines are quite capable of running unleaded fuel, However they recommend Super unleaded or 98 ron or above in the non ECU controlled engines..

    So if you are running on 98 ron then no additive is necessary. Obviously if you wish to play with the timing then theoretically you can gain more power by using an additive, but i have been warned that th 910 will produce good power right up to the point of detonation. So it is not really advisable......

  3. Well done John, i will try to remove the 'Unspeckableness' by using back pressure! No way am i hunting for the valve if its under the dash - its a mine field in there of wires (most of which spark and short if you touch them) so best left well alone!

    Just got my heater working by back flushing... the heater valve is above the peddle box under the dash. you can see it if you remove the cover off the blower motor in the front compartment then put the air flap to recirculate and look through the flap above the servo......Oh you can get to the brake light switch this way as well.

    I bypassed mine with a length of tube and found out that this was not the cause, recomend the back flush first, it was a Bast"

  4. I have a 90 SE and I was wondering if the aux pulley still dictates ignition timing since our cars have electronic ignition? Or is the aux pulley just for the charge pump. I ask because I'm still trying to figure out why my car is having vacume problems.

    The ignitions timing is taken off the fly wheel the sensor is on top of the bell housing. the Aux pulley drives the oil pump and the charge cooler pump so still has an important part to play.

    The vacuum on the SE comes from a mechanical vacuum pump driven from the triple belt pulley on the front of the crank, you could have a problem there. also there is and outlet pipe that runs along the bottom chassis rail this may be crushed or blocked thus reducing the vacuum that the pump can create.

  5. I'm also thinking of doing the same. What system did you go for?

    I have decided to use the MegaJolt Lite Jr. - Programmable Ignition Controller controlling a ford EDIS ignition system.

    http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

    A very cost effective way of converting to distributor less ignition system. It will also give the choice of two MAPs so i can run low boost on unleaded and switch to high boost and a different MAP when using super unleaded.

    Or that is the theory anyway.......

  6. I have just got my heater working after 3 years of tepid heat.

    I thought it was the valve not working so i bypassed this with a length of copper pipe, still only tepid at best......

    Got underneath yesterday a back flushed the heater with a hose pipe.. lots of brown muck came out then i got very wet.....

    Put it all back together and Ureeka hot air as good as any modern heater, Put a thermometer in the blower vent and i am now getting 60 deg c air through the vent.

    Now if only i could get it to stop in a straight line !!!!!!!

  7. Hi Ambrose

    I am the victim of two head gasket failures, both were caused by detonation on number four cylinder.....

    There will be mayo in the breather but not that much....

    The only way to really tell is a gas sniffer (exhaust gas analyser) in the expansion tank....Good news though after second headgasket failure i lost water again and thought here we go again, after testing with sniffer it showed that all was ok yet i still lost water after a hard run... Turns out to be the new rad cap that i had fitted, put the old one back on and all was fine. worth a try before you pull the motor..

  8. The shim is bonded to the head with welseal (not sure of the spelling)....

    The shim was organised by a local engineering company to me in Portsmouth called Banda Engineering. They did the welding and skimming.

    Banda Engineering

    Herbert St, Mile End, Portsmouth, Hampshire PO1 4QR

    Tel: 023 9282 8224

    They have specified them in high output Ford cosworth engines to lower the CR, so i thought it was worth the gamble....

  9. Hi chris

    Definitely don't run too long if it is reaching 105. the S3 turbo dances with detonation when running perfect, if you run at 105 and run at full boost you will get detonation.

    Of course it could be the voltage stabiliser as mentioned or it could be the sender itself. (both of these have caused me problems)

  10. Hi Paul

    I have a head saver shim fitted to my S3 turbo Chargecooled engine it works great. The company that made it used the new head gasket as a pattern and laser cut a shim in stainless. I was worried at first but it was a question of cost, my head needed welding and skimming and was below serviceable limits to start with. That was Three years ago a couple of track days a boost upgrade a chargecooler and a rolling road session. She still runs just great.....Its worth a try.. from memory it was about

  11. Hi

    You can test the regulator by starting the engine and winding in the adjuster screw, when the pressure exceeds the float pressure of the carbs, the engine will faulter and stall. it will probable be difficult to start again as you have now just flooded the engine.......

    Wind the adjuster out the same amount of turns that you have just wound the screw in.

    Connect your gauge in the fuel line before the regulator.. turn on the ingition and and wiat for the needle to stabalise. now adjust the screw to give a reading of 4psi +- 0.5psi.

    This should be the correct setting. Under boost the pressure should remain about 4 - 5 psi above boost pressure. You could now point the gauge to the passenger compartment, leave the engine cover off and with the help of a friend go for a drive. at full boost the gauge should be reading somewhere about 13psi if this is correct then your regulator is working correctly.

  12. Hi guys...

    I'm just trying to get a ballpark figure of the sort of (UK) money one would be looking at to recore a Charge Cooler Rad? (or anyone who has had an ordinary one done - I just need an idea!)

    I don't know how many they should have or how many you can realistically cram into one for extra performance? etc etc

    All imparted knowledge gratefully received :thumbup:

    Thanks ;)

    You can't recore a chargecooler Radiator they are not made the same way as normal radiators. (there are no end tanks)

    I had an SE rad recored with a tripple core for

  13. You can also use the aux belt crank pulley at the front of the engine. There are timing marks on the pulley which align to the front oil seal housing plate. Not sure which one is easier reckon they are as bad as each other to get to but theres no dismantling involved using the pulley.

    The cam drive sprockets also have marks that line up at TDC, if you have a light that has the ability to adjust, you can set the amount of advance onto the light then adjust the dizzy until the marks on the back of the sprockets line up. Far easier than getting to the other marks (on a S3 turbo anyway)

  14. Andy,

    Welcome back, and good luck w/ your Esprit!

    Cheers, Lee

    Thanks Lee

    Pleasure and Pain, it passed the MOT with a few advisor's Mainly 24 year old front suspension bushes (no probs)

    However got home to find water in the oil, Bugger looks like another rebuild on the way...... why o why do we put ourselves through so much....

    Just realised that the garage isn't working

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