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D.no

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Posts posted by D.no

  1. 5 hours ago, theelanman said:

    there could well be an initial vibration caused by change of material but this should not last more than a couple of uses.....

     

     

    I've had to bin discs on more than one occasion due to uneven pad transfer (not on my Lotus), and believe me I tried everything from "normal" road braking (cold) for hundreds of miles, to all-out thermal assault!

    There's a good article here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

  2. 1 hour ago, geartox said:

    I will mount the PF08 pads next Saturday. Do you have a "bedding procedure" (not sure of my english ;-)) for this compound ?

    http://www.pfcbrakes.com.au/techtips.php?pageId=18

     

    1 hour ago, geartox said:

     

    I used this process - it worked fine, but this was on new discs that had no previous transfer layer (of a different pad material, for example):

    Whilst bedding, brake applications should be consistent and using constant pedal effort, which is progressively increased throughout the procedure.

    1. 5 light snubs*, light pedal application: 50mph – 30mph
    2. 5 medium snubs, medium pedal application: 70mph – 40mph
    3. 3 hard snubs, hard pedal application (no ABS activation): 100+mph – 30mph**
    4. Cool down period – 5 mile run with very little brake (Do not sit at side of road with foot resting on brakes when hot, this is likely to damage the disc).
    5. Stop and examine discs – discs should show evidence of heat cycle (colouration in flange) and possess an even transfer layer of pad material on surfaces.
    6. Bedding procedure should now be complete.

    * Snub is the term used for the deceleration of a vehicle from a relatively high speed to a low speed using constant brake pedal effort.

  3. The "Display Information" link does not work for me. I get this error message:

                               Sorry, there is a problem

    The page you are trying to access is not available for your account.

                               Error code: 2C171/1

     

    Just wanted some further information before making a decision.

     

    Display Information - Fast Car Festival.pdf

    L1 PASS.jpg

  4. Sorry - been away from electronic devices, and on my mountain bike for a couple of days - which was blissful (when not trying to get off and crawl at 20mph!). There can be no reason for a change of width to the front tyres causing the car to pull to one side. Alignment for sure.

    Not sure why this would manifest itself upon a change of wheels/tyres though. What happened?

  5. ZZR's are not available in the standard (Corsa/Trofeo) front sizes, the closest is the 215/40/17as you point out. This is slightly wider (fits the rim better), and nominally has a slightly lower rolling radius due to the profile reduction not being quite offset by the increase in width. For a 40 profile tyre, the ideal width in terms of matching the original rolling radius would be 230 but as no such size is made, a 225/40/17 would be a better replacement for a 205/45/17, and would be ok on the 7.5" wide rim. However I can't find a track-oriented tyre in that size.

    The turn-in is sharper (stiffer sidewall, and less tread-block movement?) and front-end grip is a lot better, when compared to Corsa's.

  6. It will be fantastic to get your feedback - it's great news for all of us that there are more tyre options opening up.
     
    I go with these recommendations from Avon:
     

    Minimum cold starting pressure: 22psi (This is the pressure the tyre is set to prior to a session/ heat cycle). Running any lower than this could potentially damage the tyres sidewall construction. Avon Motorsport does not recommend specific starting pressures. This is due to the variables involved (i.e. track conditions, track and ambient temperatures, circuit layout, session length, driving characteristics).

    Target hot pressure: 30psi (This is the optimum pressure for the tyre to be run at whilst at operating temperature). To obtain this target hot pressure there may be a requirement to start each tyre at different cold starting pressures; this is due to each tyre inevitably working at different levels. The cold starting pressure required to achieve the target hot pressure will depend on the variables stated above.

    Right or wrong (and I'd love to hear other's feedback on this) I run 28 front and rear (cold) on the road but must admit I don't monitor the pressures or wear at all upon returning home after day to day driving (it's on my "to do" list!). All I can report is that the balance feels spot on, with the front and rear working nicely as a matched pair. I'll let you know how those pressures stack-up after a run when (if) I get round to measuring the hot pressures.

  7. Just under £800 for a set of Avons fitted.

    I got 4k miles from a pair of rear Corsa's on the road (only did 1 track day on them), so however you look at it, rear tyres are going to be a fairly constant consumable. All of the tyre options are relatively inexpensive and like all things dynamics related it's about finding a compromise you're happy with: If you want exceptional dry grip you'll pay the price with wear rate I guess (and water clearing capabilities). I'd rather base my choices on performance (grip), feel, and on-limit behaviour than secondary ride, cost and longevity but as I don't have limitless resources to try all of the available options I rely on forums like this and reviews to inform the purchase decision. Big thanks to those who've recommended the Avon ZZR's.

     

     

    12 hours ago, geartox said:

    20160721_193111.jpg

    You've had them for at least 11 hours now. I assume you were out scrubbing them in all night, so how are they?:cheers:

  8. It would either take almighty reviews, or a decent cost differential to prise me away from Avon ZZR's - they generate really strong grip but are nonetheless very benign and predictable at the limit of adhesion. Must admit I do like the appearance of the Toyo's though, so I'm keen to hear the opinions of the early adopters among us...

  9. 5 hours ago, Alfa2Evora said:

    Taking full advantage of our one day of sun up here, I decided to tackle our beech hedge which was rapidly taking on the proportions of a row of triffids.

    My new trimmer was making short work of it and I reckoned I'd have the full 40mtr length done in no time, that was right up until I discovered that some cretin had 'buried' a piece of fencing wire in the hedge. Or, more correctly, right up until the blades of the trimmer discovered the piece of wire. The machine kicked back violently but was undamaged - my right thigh prevented the blades from striking the ground, :ouch: .

    The flow of red vital fluids down my leg and into my shoe suggested to me that perhaps I should seek professional help. 2 hours in A&E, a tetanus shot in the rump and several stitches later, I'm home again. This has not been the best day, and to make matters worse the doc said that as I've taken a big bite out of the muscle tissue I'll more than likely be left with a 'dent' in my leg and may never be able to wear a mini-skirt again! :rolleyes:

    I feel your pain David - quite literally, having managed an almost identical hedge trimming mishap a couple of years ago. They don't heal too neat - especially when you give up waiting in A&E, and decide to go to bed with a bit of a bandage on your leg only to wake up in the early hours with the situation in need of re-assessment! Apparently such wounds are best sutured quite quickly. You live and learn, and I now have a LOT of respect for that piece of machinery.

    I tell people it was a shark bite!

    Good luck, and heal well....

  10. I see - good on you!

    I'm on ZZR's now too, and absolutely love them - the car feels much more keyed-in to the road surface, and there's certainly more front-end bite and alacrity. The Corsa's are a fantastic all-round tyre though - absolutely fine on track (so long as pressures are watched closely) and incredible in standing water. In the dry though, I love the way the ZZR's make the car feel limpet-like.

  11. They can squeal a tad at normal road temperatures, but I've never used a track-biased pad that doesn't. I'm probably in the minority here, and admittedly slightly unhinged, but I actually quite like the noise. In terms of performance - they're very very good on the road, but can be a little grabby/snatchy when fine modulation is required at very low speeds (but that's just as likely my complete lack of deftness as any failing on behalf of the brake pads!)

    Just to clarify, the noise is only really present in town driving scenarios - 30mph or less, traffic-light to traffic-light stop/start stuff, and only after they've lost some warmth.

    Hope this helps.

  12. I guess the higher grip levels of the Cup (tyres, geo, springs/dampers, less mass) ultimately mean less reliance on intervention from electrickery.

    The PF08's came recommended by a chap who runs 6 or 7 Exige's in the Lotus Cup -  he was a couple of garages down from me last time I was at Donington. Having just done a quick search based on my sketchy memory of the company name, I believe it was Track-Group.

  13. On 12/07/2016 at 21:09, geartox said:

    From the service notes, I didn't find any difference concerning brakes between the 350 and the previous V6 S model.  So I think this reference https://www.deroure.com/partinfo.asp?MAK=1&MDL=40&TBL=6248&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0&PBID=247214 is always "up-to-date" for the sport 350 with ap racing caliper. Maybe I will try myself to change the pads, so I'm looking for the correct product :)

     

    Changing the pads (and discs for that matter) is so quick and easy, it's silly paying someone else to do it, unless you really don't like getting your hands dirty. I am also now running Performance Friction 08 pads and I like them better than the Pagid RS14's - which in my hands at least (or foot!) get seriously grumbly when very hot, especially on the cross-drilled discs, and you have to really watch for uneven transfer. I'd love to try RS29's on the Exige - my old favourite, but it has to be said I used them on much heavier machinery in the past so I'm not sure how their characteristics would translate to a relatively light car. I also didn't realise until reading this thread that they were available for the V6. How are they stacking up Martin?

  14. I'm very jealous Dave - there's hardly a day that passes when I don't long to be in the Alps. Great pictures.

    What was the general reaction to the Exige? I imagine there are not too many of them around in those parts.

    For anyone interested in doing likewise here's a snippet from my route from a few years ago...

    Day 2: North of Lyon to Monaco via Route Napoleon, Cannes, and the Promenade des Anglais in Nice:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Epxph8yDLwZ2K-NqL1KRz7W7Ouo&usp=sharing

    Day 3: Monaco to Val D'Isere via Col de Turini, Col de la Bonnette, Col de Galibier and Col de L'Iseran: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OSQV6qQEx3J7E27U5e309fXtoZo&usp=sharing

    Day 4: Val D'Isere to Gletsch Via the Petit St Bernard pass, Grand St Bernard pass, Neufenen pass, St Gotthard pass, Furka pass, Grimsel pass, and Susten pass: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1T-07ALykvbypyTvQHE5Xr5QPznw&usp=sharing

    Day 5: Gletsch to Bormio via Grimsel, Susten, San Bernardino, Julier, Umbrail, and Stelvio passes: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xpiP5ZHO19KTexM3ybF0LLdj4as&usp=sharing

    I then went up to Stuttgart for the Porsche museum, and on to the 'ring for a tourist session - I can provide the route if anyone wants it but as that part of the journey is slightly more boring and direct, and not in keeping with the Alpine theme, I've kept it to myself for now.

    I'm planning on heading back over there shortly in my Exige but will be avoiding the South of France like the plague (I never learn!) and will head straight for Obergoms in Switzerland from where the Furka, Susten, Grimsel loop (my fave's) can be driven at will.

     

     

    • Like 1
  15. The brain-dead automotive equivalent of mouth breathing shufflers who use obliviousness as a default state-of-being to get them through their waking hours. And, more pertinently, their commute to and from the premises of whatever unfortunate and short-sighted employer who saw fit to empower them with a task worth paying for. I finally understand the origins and thinking behind the "Speed kills" brainwashing campaign: On the evidence of my drive home this evening a huge proportion of the "driving" population, who presumably somehow managed to fluke a pass on their driving test at the 127th attempt, have difficulty with such unfathomable multi-tasks as moving their right foot at the same time as managing any kind of coordinated motor-skills that result in hand movements: Any kind of speed, any at all, is not going to end well for them. And I can only assume they've now figured this out from experience, and are using their last ounce of intellect to ensure it doesn't happen again by not doing speed. Well, not strictly true, walking pace can just about be processed, but not with enough spare capacity to allow any use of the indicators.

    Mr angry and disillusioned needs a glass of wine....

    Sorry for the rant, but you did ask!

  16. I think it's luck of the draw regarding how many rev's you're asked for.

    The last test I had, I was asked for "Four and half please". So I gave them 4, which in hindsight and looking at the graph below, was not so clever :P

    I still failed by a HUGE margin (105db versus a limit of 100db). I suspect my Quicksilver muffler which has been on the car for an indeterminate length of time (it was on when I purchased the car) may be suffering from a certain amount of packing deterioration! I had checked the Quicksilver website before booking the trackday, and my muffler is stated as emitting a maximum of 98db up to about 6k rpm, whereas standard is supposed to be ~93db...

    QS-LO632S-GRAPH.jpg

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