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About 82s3

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  • Name
    Bob Silk
  • Car
    1982 Esprit S3 N/A
  1. So, I have got the car back and it runs like a dream. Max didn't find an obvious fault but suspects There was an issue with the choke circuits in one or both carbs. Anyway, in exchange for two thousand seven hundred quid this was the work carried out; Compression test & cylinder leakage test. Checked the entire ignition system. Stripped & rebuilt carbs, re-set mixture and balanced. Checked the ignition timing. New cam belt & tensioner. Stripped and rebuilt rear brakes as they had seized up during about 12 month of non use. Replaced all gearchange bushes and seized cross gate cable, ... which has completely transformed the gearchange. Labour was near as dash it fifteen hundred, the rest was parts. Bob
  2. Who did the respray and, if you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge you? Bob
  3. Thanks for everyone's input; appreciated. Having tried everything and become exasperated with it, The car is now in th care of Max 500 in Guildford who comes highly recommend. I hope to be able to collect it in a few days and will let you all know what he found and how he fixed it. Bob
  4. Thanks for your feedback guys. Responding in no particular order. 1) I haven't not taken the car on the road for quite a while as it has been out of MOT. I have however started it regularly and run it up to operating temperature. I was about to take for it's MOT when this problem cropped up. It'll drive OK around the garage complex where it is kept. 2) All of the components, etc. that I have renewed have been a response to the problem and none of the bits and pieces that I have replaced/ work done have eased it. I do not therefore think that I have replaced anything with a component that is faulty out of the box. 3) The fuel pump seems to be working OK as I can see it pulsing fuel through the fuel filter. Then again, there's no harm on checking it. 4) Between "2" & "3" it runs fine. It only when you turn the engine off when it is hot, leave it for a while and then try to turn it on again that it runs badly. Perhaps I'll go back to basics, check the float heights again and set the mixtures with a Colourtune. Mind you I don't understand how that will fix the problem when on first start up it runs OK right through the temperature range. Bob
  5. I own 1982 Lotus Esprit S3 N/A which runs very poorly when hot. The symptoms are as follows: 1) Starts from cold relatively easily and picks up well on the throttle with no flat spots. 2) Continues to run well up to temperature and also when the fans cut in, albeit as the temperature rises the idle drops from 1000 revs to about 850 revs. 3) Turn the engine off and leave it for 5 to 10 minutes and it is then difficult to restart, runs poorly and eventually dies. And so something is breaking down in some way due to heat. I have checked and or replaced the following: a) New speak plugs. b) New distributor rotor arm. c) New electronic ignition module (Accuspark). d) Distributor cap, HT leads and plug caps are less than two years old during which time the car has covered less than 2000 miles. e) New ignition coil and ballast resistor. f) New inlet manifold gasket. g) Carburettors ultrasonically cleaned. h) Carburettors balanced with Morgan Carbtune. i) Compression checked 170 psi for each cylinder +\- a couple of psi across the four cylinders and so I do not think that the engine has worn piston rings, cylinder bores or a blown head gasket (no “mayonnaise” in the oil filler cap). j) Vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold do not seem to be leaking. k) New fuel filter. So, I have now run out of ideas. Question, .... what have I missed? Bob Silk
  6. Where did you get it done and how much did they charge you?
  7. You know, I am not sure! There wasn't any apparent tracking that was causing the rotor arm to short out. However the brass contact was (very) slighlty loose, whereas on the replacement that I bought from a local car parts shop for £3, it was rock solid. Once I had relplaced the rotor arm, the engine started first turn of the key and then ran better than it has for a long time.
  8. Fixed it; it was the rotor arm all along. Took the car down to the south coast today; 120 mile round trip - ran like a dream! Thanks to everyone who replied to my call for help; greatly appreciated.
  9. See my thread "Poor running when hot" under in Carbs/ Fuel. Stil not fixed mine yet!
  10. There is just one lead feeding the coil; it's white. There is no lead running from the starter solenoid to the coil. the only other lead on the +ve side of the coil comes from what appears to be a suppressor whose body is attached to the coil's mounting clamp. This afternoon I re-attached the original coil, a Lucas item bearing a sticker which says that it is a ballast coil. Having wired it up and switched the ignition on I read 6v from +ve side of the coil to earth; not sure what I did wrong to read 12v yesterday! Anyway, I removed all of the spark plugs, attached a plug to one of the HT leads and cranked the engine - no spark. I then detached the king lead from the distributor and held it near the cylinder head and cranked the engine again - and got a spark. So, I am now tending to the view that my faullt lies in the distributor cap and/ or rotor arm.
  11. I have just the one live feed to the coil and so it must surely be an unballasted system? Really strange because the old coil was, I am sure, unballasted. Either way I'll try an unballasted coil and see if the engine will start. Meantime I am not running any electronics as the moment - just a contact breaker and condenser both of which are brand new.
  12. An update, having spent all day trying to sort the car out, focusing in the ignition system, because there is an old adage that goes something like, "even if it seems to be a fuel problem, it'll be ignition!" 1) All voltages across the battery and the coil checked both cold and hot, running and not. The battery registers 12v engine stopped and 13 volts running and so the alternator would appear to be working properly. 2) Despite the wiring diagram in the manual showing the presence of a ballast resister, I get 12v supply to the coil when the engine is running. I also noted that there is only one live feed to the coil. Hence there cannot be a ballast resister installed. Further evindence of this is the fact that the coil's 12v supply when running equates to more than 80% of the battery's voltage; hence no ballast resistor. There however what appears to be a suppressor wired to the live side of the coil and mounted on the clamp that secures the coil to the foil lined fibreglass box that houses the coiland is bolted to the engine side of the boot floor. I have no idea of the purpose of this component; it does not appear on the wiring diagram. 3) Notwithstanding "2" above, I have have installed a new ballasted coil, this replicating the original coil that I replaced last week. 4) Points gap checked and ignition timing re-checked. 5) Ignition advance bob weights checked for full & free movement. 6) No "play" in the distributor's shaft. 7) Distributor rotor in good condition. 8) New spark plugs installed. 9) HT Leads resistance checked and found OK as was the king lead. 10) Distrubutor cap checked - no apparent tracking; all terminals cleaned. 11) Engine started and run up to working temperature cooling fans cut in satisfactorily, twice. 12) Carb main and idle jet checked - all clear. 13) Carbs balanced with a manometer. 14) Vacuum hose running from the inlet manifold to the break servo appears serviceable. So, I then take the car for a run and initially it is fine, albeit it refuses to idle below c.1500 rpm. after 15/ 20 minutes, the original problem reappars: a) Increasingly bad misfiring, a couple of really spectacular backfires through the exhaust and refuses to idle. b) Switch off and wait five minutes and the engine restarts, runs for a short time and then dies again. This becomes progressively worse; eventually running for 5 seconds max then dies. c) One occasion when it restarted I observed, just before the engine died that it momentarily seemed to run backwards. d) Eventually, it just refused to start and I had to push it home whereupon, having cooled down it still refused to start and now the starter solenoid doesn't even engage (assume battery flat). Car = Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. Owner = Hugely p*ssed off with car which is living up to it's name (see above!). So guys, what have I missed?
  13. Yes, the coil is like for like and I get 9v when running.
  14. I see that this problem is not uncommon, butI thought that I would seek some help, notwithstanding the volume of advice that has already been posted on the forum. Here are the symptoms: > Starts first turn of the key from cold and runs fine for about 20 minutes and then starts to stumble, typically stalling when changing down approaching a junction. > Then difficult to re-start. > Leave it for a minute or two and it'll restart and idle (albeit with a "stumble" when the throttle is "blipped") with no problem and pull away and maintain motorway+ speeds without incident. > However the longer the run, the worse the problem not just slowing down for a junction, but also at town speeds, up to, say, 30 mph. Steve at SJ Sportscars is adamant that this is a heat related ignition problem and/ or a bad earth. However all of the car's electrical systems seem to operate fine this including the tacho which takes it's feed from the negative side of the coil. The other reason that I don't think that this is electrical is that the above symptoms have remained unchanged even after I have (a) installed a new balasted coil (resistance 2 ohms), (b)swapped the Lumention for contact breakers (a very cheap temporary and simple control/ test alternative - correctly gapped), © re-set the ignition timing both statically & dynamically, (d) dizzy cap and HT leads are only 24 months old, (e) plugs cleaned and correctly gapped. I am therefore tending to the view that I have a fuelling problem, in which regard: 1) The fuel pump must be OK because it is is coping with the demands of motorway speeds. 2) The fuel filter appears to be full of petrol and does not therefore seem to be obstructed. ... which only leaves the carbs. My guess therefore is that either a jet/s and or passage/s is blocked and/ or the float height of one or both carbs is "out" causing either under fuelling (but then surely that impair high speed running?) or over fuelling thus maybe causing a "rich cut" when the engine's rev's drop (note though that the choke mechanisms appear to be functioning properly. So, my next course of action is to remove the carbs, dismantle, thoroughly clean and then re-assemble them with new 0-rings and gaskets throughout. If this doesn't cure the problem then I'll be stumped because I think that I will have exhausted everything on both the sparks and fuel side of the engine, unless of course I have missed something even more simple? Meantime the curious thing is that you can start the car and leave it idling until the fans cut in and this problem does not seem to arise. Any ideas would therefore be very welcome, because this problem is priving top be a royal pain in the backside.
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