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82s3

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About 82s3

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday 03/01/1963

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More Info

  • Name
    Bob Silk
  • Car
    1982 Esprit S3 N/A

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  1. How about just keeping things simple with traditional handbrake cables. Less to wrong! Bob
  2. OK, ... how much do you want for them? Bob
  3. Actually bleeding the calipers wasn't the problem that I thought it would. Bob
  4. If you are inclined to sell them can you please email me on [email protected] Bob Email me and I'll be delighted to make an offer. Bob
  5. If you are inclined to sell them can you please email me on [email protected] Bob
  6. Your Veglia dials are for sale? Bob
  7. Hi Giorgio. No, I haven't had to buy new hoses because my rear hoses are stainless braided items with reusable banjos. I have therefore simply bought some replacement banjos (eBay) and fitted them to the existing hoses. Things to note are, 1) The Audi calipers take an M12 x 1.00 thread banjo bolt. 2) You therefore need to buy a couple of M12 banjo's. Best to buy items that come with the compression fitting and olive as this saves buying parts piecemeal. 3) The Audi calipers are a direct replacement for the original Girling units - no modification necessary. Note though that the left hand Audi caliper is fitted to the Esprit's right hand side and vice versa. 4) The right side handbrake cable runs up the side of the engine bay and then and then down past the cooling system's expansion tank, to the caliper. 5) The left hand side handbrake cable run up over the top of the bell housing and then down to the calliper. It runs a bit close to the exhaust and so it's best to wrap it with some heat resistant sheathing. The calipers cost - £45; brand new units from eBay. Brake pads - £20. Brake hose banjos and banjo bolts - £50. Total cost £115 which is about a 1/3rd of the cost of PMN's "kit". I think that covers everything save to saw that the handbrake operation is far better than Girling units. Bob
  8. I read this post several times a while back, thought about it and decided to have a go, because my handbrake has always been a bit naff. In case it did'nt work, I've initially bought just a nearside Audi A6 caliper (brand new & only £20 on eBay) which I've found you need to fit on the offside in order place the bleed nipple uppermost. There's a bit of a knack to getting the calliper in place because there isn't much space - the rear chassis loop that runs under the gearbox gets in the way. This loop also runs very close to the bleed nipple, so bleeding the rear brakes may be easier said than done. Anyway I got the calliper in and then fiddled a new set of A6 brake pads into place and bolted it up, no problem and it slides without fouling the carrier. The bracket on the calliper that retains the handbrake cable outer ferrule needs to opened up a little so that it will slide in. Once this has been done, the cable fits and works as normal. I opened it up with a conical grind stone in a drill. Routing the nearside handbrake cable is up the side of the engine bay, past the coolant header tank and the down to the caliper. No problem. Last job is the brake line. This is a different fitting at the calliper end - it needs a banjo. I'll call PNM tomorrow to see if they'll sell me a set. Bob
  9. I read this post several times a while back, thought about it and decided to have a go, because my handbrake has always been a bit naff. In case it did'nt work, I've initially bought just a nearside Audi A6 caliper (brand new & only £20 on eBay) which I've found you need to fit on the offside in order place the bleed nipple uppermost. There's a bit of a knack to getting the calliper in place because there isn't much space - the rear chassis loop that runs under the gearbox gets in the way. This loop also runs very close to the bleed nipple, so bleeding the rear brakes may be easier said than done. Anyway I got the calliper in and then fiddled a new set of A6 brake pads into place and bolted it up, no problem and it slides without fouling the carrier. The bracket on the calliper that retains the handbrake cable outer ferrule needs to opened up a little so that it will slide in. Once this has been done, the cable fits and works as normal. I opened it up with a conical grind stone in a drill. Routing the nearside handbrake cable is up the side of the engine bay, past the coolant header tank and the down to the caliper. No problem. Last job is the brake line. This is a different fitting at the calliper end - it needs a banjo. I'll call PNM tomorrow to see if they'll sell me a set. Bob
  10. 82s3

    MISFIRE

    Fixed it! On removing the carbs in order to the clean them out on case something was blocked, I found that a couple of the inlet manifold o-rings had swollen and weren't seating properly, causing an air leak. Cleaned the carbs, replaced the o-rings - sorted! Bob
  11. 82s3

    MISFIRE

    And it's not the Accuspark unit either because I replaced it this afternoon and it's still misfiring. And yes, the timing is spot-on. ...am completely stumped! B
  12. 82s3

    MISFIRE

    No, it's definitely not a lean mixture. Bob
  13. 82s3

    MISFIRE

    It won't the float levels. Max of Max 500 sorted the carbs for he earlier this year when I was having a hot running problem. Is it possible to check an Accuspark unit with a multimeter? Bob
  14. 82s3

    MISFIRE

    Well, it's definitely not, > The ignition timing because I have checked it again. > The new parts because it was mis-firing before I replaced them. > The valve timing, because I have just checked that too and it's fine - the cambelt has not slipped. .... this just leaves the Accuspark unit or the fuel pump, I think. If it's neither of them, then I all out of ideas! Bob
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