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JonSE

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About JonSE

  • Birthday 10/07/1973

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  • Name
    Jonathan Love
  • Car
    Esprit S2
  • Modifications
    Standard
  • Location
    Leeds

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  1. I think it can hear us…..
  2. Front off side anti roll bar mount has a dent, maybe the car has been knocked here. Ideally I’d like new metal for this front bit, the U channels are a bit crusty… The captive steering rack mount channels aren’t open at the bottom, a big water trap and filled with crud, I’m going to open these up with a small hole to allow wax in from the underside and water to drain out….
  3. Used these long nose pliers to ease out the grommets which were left in my original S2 ages ago after a ‘mechanic’ repaired (butchered) a water pump repair in 2003, a nice historical touch I thought…. Chassis tubes have been wrapped in exhaust tape, some surface corrosion below this… Front dampers had to be cut off. Not sure if they are salvageable with a rebuild or just go fresh with all new coil overs based on rest of cars condition….
  4. Chassis is now almost done after a solid day this weekend on final disassembly….. I still have a single front wishbone bolt that is stubbornly stuck and resisting taps from the hammer. I’m reticent to apply more force in case I warp the top mount, so will either try some heat or leave it to the chassis shop to sort. This bolt and a couple that are stuck on the engine mount are pretty much the end of the strip down. I’ve been working on the car (which was well progressed in terms of disassembly already) for around 6 months now, mostly a day every other weekend at a steady pace. I under estimated the storage needed for bits as they came off the car so got some second hand eBay racking to store the last bits and bobs! It was a great pleasure to drop by 2X forum members and catch up these past few weeks to discuss progress with their projects and put names to faces! I’ve given the chassis a good power wash and degrease, mainly to stop me getting so filthy every time I need to move it somewhere else! Chassis looked as surprised as me that we’d made it this far…. Removing all the various hoses, tubing and gear levers. Several of the coolant hoses just tore off they were so perished…. Do the red circles or black circles look clearer (opticians joke)…. Near side engine mount has had a big gouge put in it, maybe for the manifold? Lots of crud came out of the various box sections….rested it vertically to allow it to drain before storing in the garage and setting the dehumidifier to maximum….. Lower box had jack damage at the front, ideally want this unpicking and repairing….
  5. …….is auctioning his esprit 350 to create funds for a new classic car business…..
  6. http://www.holycows.net/Lotus/?fbclid=IwAR3Eiqj_CBETKahB389-wixoxfLoPAtuzZwnkiFjX3zBsLDs_i8X9ea3R9A Hi, Think the S2 manual can be found on the above blog….
  7. Dave, Why isn’t this gem in the restoration part of the forum? Lots of really useful pics and advice on here….
  8. Back to a hot garage today after some time away from the car. To be honest, the near side front disassembly was such a pig, it put me off going back in for a while, that and the heat we are enjoying here. Top wishbone was much easier this side, in fact most bolts were ok. The ones that were a pain to sort were the anti roll bar and also the anti roll bar mount. They were so bad I needed to pull them off the car as an assembly, and I still can’t break the anti roll bar’s grip on the lower suspension arm. One bolt is rounded in the chassis so I’ve left it until I can get better access. Steering rack off and majority of chassis now done, just the fans to take off and the gear linkage to remove plus some sundry items, then it’s time to decide on where the chassis goes for lower front box section repairs / blasting etc before it heads back home. Great ongoing help from some fantastic forum members regards advice and potential support for actual body work / engine shop recommendations etc, really appreciated, the calls, emails, face to face chats and responses here have helped me build a good plan of attack. All this support gives me a much stronger chance at succeeding as I’m not as experienced as you guys and just doing what I can to get the car ready for rebuild. I’m hopefully still on track to have the car back on the road (running if not fully finished) in 2 years time by doing a few hours every week on various tasks…… Text is large as I’ve pasted from my phone, but it’s better for my older eyes!
  9. Good luck with retirement Paul! I used POR15 on another chassis, painted it on in the garage and followed the instructions they gave (to clean first with their marine clean formula etc to degrease etc). The stuff has really set solid, some is still stuck to the garage floor a decade later! I’m thinking of the same for the chassis, if I recall it wants to avoid any exposure to UV as this can weaken it. The inner arches of the car I applied it to still seem sound. I’d brush it into the internal box sections in good quantity with disposable paint brushes, they are not worth saving after being exposed to it. From memory you mix the compound together with pigment to activate and it eventually sets rock hard, so should be a known quantity in terms of your fibre glass skills!
  10. Been a while as the with the nice weather come gardening jobs and various distractions from making up new swear words in the garage while working on the car. I did think how nice it must be to build a Caterham kit of new parts as opposed to bashing the hell out of old bolts / suspension parts trying to get them to separate after too long dormant. Another three hours one evening this weekend now starting to strip down the front. Had to take things apart in assemblies as they are just stuck fast. Also know why it felt so heavy, the brakes were fully seized on this side of the car, had to “bray” the calliper off and damaged my favourite piece of 2X4 wood in the process, not a happy bunny. Everything left now (upper wishbone / damper nut / lower swing arm / hub assembly) that you see here is seized and I will need some external help to sort. Even the bolt going through the upper box for the upper wishbone is solid and I don’t want to warp the chassis or break this in there! On the plus side, I reckon another five or so hours and even keeping some of the front suspension in tact as I take it off, the chassis will be fully stripped. Have to also prepare to cut the rear lower hub bolts as these are seized solid and I understand not to use hammers due to hub fragility. I’ll be using optimol (or similar) after reassembly as I don’t ever want to face this grief again! I may lose the option to refurb this suspension if I have to cut the top damper mount off to free up the unit…. Again needed every socket and spanner combination I had to make it happen….
  11. At the other of the scale from me getting covered in cuts and bruises trying to get mine apart, how cool is this? Roger Moore and son at the beach enjoying each other’s company on a short filming break..... Don’t know the owner, pls delete if it breaches any copyright etc.....
  12. Cracked on this weekend, needed to tidy the working space up as it was getting very cluttered! Off side engine mount undid easily, near side the bond had let go, so just came away. Is there a modification for this one that helps with the heat that I may have read of? Thanks to Fridge for the advice, chassis / engine end lowered onto a dolly and the final engine hangers undone..... Then just lifted the chassis up and wheeled the engine back’ards (as we say in Yorkshire). Needed help from the boss! Then started to undo the 22mm bolts holding the brake hanger / engine mounts together. They were STUCK! Hardest bolts on the car so far.... Heat, some percussive persuasion, tickling etc sorted three of them in around an hour. Lots of oxidised dust in evidence. Near side though, with all the torque available from the 6ft pole, still wouldn’t budge it. More heat, more weight, used the engine mass to ‘wobble’ the nut on the end of the breaker bar - nothing! Adopted some strange positions trying to get enough torque without having the engine tip onto me while trying to free off this b$#&y bolt..... 30 mins of pleading / begging / shouting then MOVEMENT! The bolt head just sheared clean off.... I’d lowered the engine onto the floor for the leverage so, defeated, managed to man handle it back onto the dolly for portability and then started the process of drilling out the old bolt. Didn’t get too far through, maybe a quarter of the way, then called it a day. This is the side you may recall with the bolt sheared perpendicular to this into the brake calliper, so now it’s a double problem! At least the car is consistent. May split the bell housing so the transaxle + bell housing is more portable to take these to a work shop to get these two bolts out (or just let the gearbox people sort it when I send out for a check over). Next job will be to break down the front and start to get items off the storage racking and out for refurb, ideally with the chassis and associate parts coming back here first to begin the reassembly. Tanks and radiators can go pretty much and the suspension I need to cut those lower studs to free off the lower links. Once I’ve got the space back, the body can come inside for GRP repairs or moved to a specialist for this work, based on who has time or is interested in the project..... For now, engine is nestled at the side of the last of the chassis, waiting for choice of engine builder to be decided (and for me to work out how to actually transport it there....)
  13. What’s the process for the front chassis lower T section jack damage repair? Mines been hammered! The metal folds over from memory from front and rear. Also have some splitting on the trailing arms, just separation really but want to sort while the cars apart.....what’s the process? Thanks!
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