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  1. Hi, I don’t know if the owner is on here, but I have the engine under tray for this car if the current owner would like it. If I don’t hear back, I’ll donate it to another interested party.
  2. Made a loose collection of bits to take to a specialist for stripping and rebuilding, effectively the four hubs, three brake callipers (one has decided to stay on the rear transaxle for the moment), the steering rack and possibly the radiator and the steering column….. It might look like a motley collection of scrap but I’d be snookered trying to assemble this lot if I didn’t already have it! The idea will be to have the four corners of the chassis hub-wise ready to bolt back on when all this is done and I can move the chassis for refurb…. Anyone know if the metal bushes on the rear gearbox hangers ever need replacing??
  3. So it’s logistics and not time that are now slowing me down…… I need to move the chassis to a repairer, there are a few options for this. I’ve got access to a Volvo XC90 whose static load on roof bars (not those shown, they are just testers) is 75kg. The chassis is 55kgs, but I’m just not sure about lashing to the roof of my car, has anyone done this or do I concede defeat and just rent a van?
  4. It’s been a while with holidays and the like since my last post. I’d managed to get the body shell back into the garage along with the engine, chassis and all the other ancillaries while we were away but it was a tight fit. So first job was to free up the space by getting the body back outside and tidying the garage again. I do seem to spend a lot of time just moving stuff around, I did underestimate the s p a c e you need to do this!! At least now it’s almost stripped, there aren’t any more space considerations, as stuff goes back together it should free up racking! First job was to completely remove the wiring loom and draw it out of the car. I’ve mentioned it before but regardless of the state of the rest of the car (body was very good, chassis has been refurbished and is in great condition), the electrics were in a real state. There’s evidence in a couple of places of overheating, multiple cut ends and patches and amendments. All out now and safely on one side, I may need to give it to a supplier for use as a pattern to make a new one. The new one I’ll add provision for relays for the windows, isolators for the fuel pump and coil and also maybe spot lights. I’m also still thinking of a new location in the front for all the fuses and relays in one place using modern modules. The dash bar has some relays attached that are quite hidden and I know from the SE everything had moved to the front compartment to make life easier by that stage. I don’t have an ignition barrel with the car as it had a racing start system, I may retain this but relocate it, not decided yet…. I’m probably going to go with an electric heater and fan plus a separate new fresh air blower as mine was from an old Vauxhall and the original was long gone. I may go with the Evans coolant as the car will be completely water free due to the strip down and I don’t really want the water circuit to be in the cabin if a simple electrical heat system can do the job instead such as posted a few pages back. If so, I’ll seal the inlet pipes into the cabin and adapt the dash plate in the binnacle to house period switches to control the electric heat. Radiator was mounted bolt upright and really tiny (10 inch or so), more like an S1 than an S2 (which I understood were at an angle?) I do find this really strange, I don’t think mine is a particularly early S2 so would have though it would have been S2 cooling by that stage. The screen will be coming out but I can feed a tie wrap already through the gap, so may use old guitar string to cut it out completely. I’ll get a new screen but it seems a pity to waste this one, someone is welcome to it if of any use. The battery box had some unusual cracks around the mounting area, I think now I’ve managed to remove it that the weight of a modification to reinforce it with a metal box after it had been installed cracked the boot floor where it was mounted. It weighed A LOT just as an empty box, with the battery in it I can see why the grp had started to give way…. I’m going to fill the boot floor in and re-site the battery where the S1 has its unit, not to replicate the S1 but because I want a larger battery and to avoid these issues in future, as it happened on my other S2. I’m also thinking of adding a removable rear panel on the boot floor that can be bolted in and out, using metal tubing to form the frame, for access, but not decided. Got the horns off and released the final bolts holding the heater plenum / mount in place, but ran out of time to gently cut the sealant out so will do that next time. I’ve just the sills to remove now to access the seatbelt mount points and I’ve started to drill these out. I was originally going to paint the dash board bar in situ, but access was so good that I’ve removed it to have it blasted and painted properly. There are a couple of large bolts I need my local garage to free off to allow further disassembly of the hub’s, the gearbox to separate from the engine and the above sills to take off, but then that is about it. Then, its time to start getting parts out for refurbishment and rebuild, 10 months after starting! Looking forward to getting the chassis done and on trestle tables in the garage then slowly adding the parts back on as they are completed. Body wise, I’m discussing with a few experts on the best way forward for the tasks I need doing……..
  5. Hi there are several after market ones, if your keen on keeping the original you could switch the internals I expect….
  6. Hi, No, he was a frequent guest driver for a small private amateur historic team I was part of, my older brother by day was a transport driver for the owner Max, weekends he hauled the artic race trailer all over Europe. The cars were originally Lotus Cortina’s then we progressed up to race a series of Mustangs. I didn’t expect to find any details on line but there is a small article. Gerry was with us a good few times a year over a period of around 7 years from memory….
  7. I was lucky enough to crew for Gerry and spent many a great night with him in the twilight of his career all over Europe at various meetings. I often drove him to and from his hotel and had dinner with him on top of spending race days with him, a lovely bloke. Unbeatable behind the wheel in the cars we ran, would often qualify slowly to allow a spectacle where he would fight to the front, then slow down to give the rest of the field a chance to catch up again and keep the crowds entertained. Had anyone and everyone drop by at race meetings to give him their best wishes, lots of household names were accommodated for a brew and to share stories from back in the day. He passed not long after my dad and it was a real double blow, he was such a nice fella. Bit of Esprit content, he knew I had an S2 back then. Mentioned the under steer, never knew he had the racing turbo until years later, we spoke more about TVR’s which we also both had. He helped with some of the work I did on it, his turbo went to Mike Brewer after he passed I believe. Lots of interesting stories about ACBC, Delorean, the jet set etc. He was one of a group of guys just enjoying his racing towards the end like Barry Williams and the Lanfranchi’s who were on the circuit back in the late 90’s, lovely guys and enjoyed the craic. You don’t realise what you have until it’s gone ☹️
  8. It’s great to see progress and how the car fits together Paul, thanks for these images!
  9. Do you have any images of the work you can share? I need to start planning for replacing mine at some point and it would be great to visualise where you are with this!
  10. Just remembered when I got taken on a test drive prior to buying my first S2 back in maybe 2002…. It was around South Yorkshire, some lovely countryside and quite a spirited drive by the owner. We we’re on an elevated section of country road with big ditches either side of us, so great view but I expect there were quite a few Nissan Micras down there that just slipped in after a momentary lapse of concentration. The vendor had partially rebuilt the car and was merrily booting it down this lane while I looked out of the passenger window……… All of a sudden, I thought: “Hello, what’s that in the field just below us?” “Strange”, I thought, “looks like a wheel overtaking us.” ”Similar to a Speedline, what are the chances of that…” I watched it idly bouncing up and down as it got deeper into the field and suddenly….. BANG! The car nosed down my side and starts to veer towards the precipice. I braced myself as we looked like we were going over, the car possibly wanting to chase what turned out to be its own front wheel over the edge into the ditch and out into the field. Driver applied the brakes and gently wrestled with the steering trying not to antagonise the car as slowly we ground to a halt after a couple of hundred yards going dead straight…..sparks up by my window, happy days….. Once we had calmed down and got out, we checked the front. He’s replaced the dust shield on the brakes that morning and then realised he’d neglected to tighten all the bolts on the wheel…… The brake disc had locked solid, acting as the only contact point with the road in lieu of the now absent wheel and was now ground flat down to the hub along with the new shield, as if the bottom half had been cut off by a laser. We retrieved the wheel from deep in the ploughed field and with the help of another driver who kindly stopped to help, we managed to lift the front nose up just enough to put the wheel back. One of those useless pieces of information we all keep in our head then saved the day and I suggested we take a single nut off each of the other wheels to attach the runaway back onto the car and gently drive home. We got to his house and the vendor said’ “er, I expect your not interested in buying it now” but I was thinking already that maybe it was fate we’d not crashed more severely and actually this was the car for me! Turns out my old S2 couldn’t kill me physically so went about trying to wreck me financially for the next decade in return, but I still miss that old car….. Anyway, there is a point to this. Do I actually need the front dust shields on the brakes or can these be left off? Ideally I’d like to see both sides of the disc and expect not having the shields on would also help keep the brakes cooler?
  11. I think it can hear us…..
  12. Front off side anti roll bar mount has a dent, maybe the car has been knocked here. Ideally I’d like new metal for this front bit, the U channels are a bit crusty… The captive steering rack mount channels aren’t open at the bottom, a big water trap and filled with crud, I’m going to open these up with a small hole to allow wax in from the underside and water to drain out….
  13. Used these long nose pliers to ease out the grommets which were left in my original S2 ages ago after a ‘mechanic’ repaired (butchered) a water pump repair in 2003, a nice historical touch I thought…. Chassis tubes have been wrapped in exhaust tape, some surface corrosion below this… Front dampers had to be cut off. Not sure if they are salvageable with a rebuild or just go fresh with all new coil overs based on rest of cars condition….
  14. Chassis is now almost done after a solid day this weekend on final disassembly….. I still have a single front wishbone bolt that is stubbornly stuck and resisting taps from the hammer. I’m reticent to apply more force in case I warp the top mount, so will either try some heat or leave it to the chassis shop to sort. This bolt and a couple that are stuck on the engine mount are pretty much the end of the strip down. I’ve been working on the car (which was well progressed in terms of disassembly already) for around 6 months now, mostly a day every other weekend at a steady pace. I under estimated the storage needed for bits as they came off the car so got some second hand eBay racking to store the last bits and bobs! It was a great pleasure to drop by 2X forum members and catch up these past few weeks to discuss progress with their projects and put names to faces! I’ve given the chassis a good power wash and degrease, mainly to stop me getting so filthy every time I need to move it somewhere else! Chassis looked as surprised as me that we’d made it this far…. Removing all the various hoses, tubing and gear levers. Several of the coolant hoses just tore off they were so perished…. Do the red circles or black circles look clearer (opticians joke)…. Near side engine mount has had a big gouge put in it, maybe for the manifold? Lots of crud came out of the various box sections….rested it vertically to allow it to drain before storing in the garage and setting the dehumidifier to maximum….. Lower box had jack damage at the front, ideally want this unpicking and repairing….
  15. …….is auctioning his esprit 350 to create funds for a new classic car business…..
  16. Hi, Think the S2 manual can be found on the above blog….
  17. Dave, Why isn’t this gem in the restoration part of the forum? Lots of really useful pics and advice on here….
  18. Back to a hot garage today after some time away from the car. To be honest, the near side front disassembly was such a pig, it put me off going back in for a while, that and the heat we are enjoying here. Top wishbone was much easier this side, in fact most bolts were ok. The ones that were a pain to sort were the anti roll bar and also the anti roll bar mount. They were so bad I needed to pull them off the car as an assembly, and I still can’t break the anti roll bar’s grip on the lower suspension arm. One bolt is rounded in the chassis so I’ve left it until I can get better access. Steering rack off and majority of chassis now done, just the fans to take off and the gear linkage to remove plus some sundry items, then it’s time to decide on where the chassis goes for lower front box section repairs / blasting etc before it heads back home. Great ongoing help from some fantastic forum members regards advice and potential support for actual body work / engine shop recommendations etc, really appreciated, the calls, emails, face to face chats and responses here have helped me build a good plan of attack. All this support gives me a much stronger chance at succeeding as I’m not as experienced as you guys and just doing what I can to get the car ready for rebuild. I’m hopefully still on track to have the car back on the road (running if not fully finished) in 2 years time by doing a few hours every week on various tasks…… Text is large as I’ve pasted from my phone, but it’s better for my older eyes!
  19. Good luck with retirement Paul! I used POR15 on another chassis, painted it on in the garage and followed the instructions they gave (to clean first with their marine clean formula etc to degrease etc). The stuff has really set solid, some is still stuck to the garage floor a decade later! I’m thinking of the same for the chassis, if I recall it wants to avoid any exposure to UV as this can weaken it. The inner arches of the car I applied it to still seem sound. I’d brush it into the internal box sections in good quantity with disposable paint brushes, they are not worth saving after being exposed to it. From memory you mix the compound together with pigment to activate and it eventually sets rock hard, so should be a known quantity in terms of your fibre glass skills!
  20. Been a while as the with the nice weather come gardening jobs and various distractions from making up new swear words in the garage while working on the car. I did think how nice it must be to build a Caterham kit of new parts as opposed to bashing the hell out of old bolts / suspension parts trying to get them to separate after too long dormant. Another three hours one evening this weekend now starting to strip down the front. Had to take things apart in assemblies as they are just stuck fast. Also know why it felt so heavy, the brakes were fully seized on this side of the car, had to “bray” the calliper off and damaged my favourite piece of 2X4 wood in the process, not a happy bunny. Everything left now (upper wishbone / damper nut / lower swing arm / hub assembly) that you see here is seized and I will need some external help to sort. Even the bolt going through the upper box for the upper wishbone is solid and I don’t want to warp the chassis or break this in there! On the plus side, I reckon another five or so hours and even keeping some of the front suspension in tact as I take it off, the chassis will be fully stripped. Have to also prepare to cut the rear lower hub bolts as these are seized solid and I understand not to use hammers due to hub fragility. I’ll be using optimol (or similar) after reassembly as I don’t ever want to face this grief again! I may lose the option to refurb this suspension if I have to cut the top damper mount off to free up the unit…. Again needed every socket and spanner combination I had to make it happen….
  21. At the other of the scale from me getting covered in cuts and bruises trying to get mine apart, how cool is this? Roger Moore and son at the beach enjoying each other’s company on a short filming break..... Don’t know the owner, pls delete if it breaches any copyright etc.....
  22. Cracked on this weekend, needed to tidy the working space up as it was getting very cluttered! Off side engine mount undid easily, near side the bond had let go, so just came away. Is there a modification for this one that helps with the heat that I may have read of? Thanks to Fridge for the advice, chassis / engine end lowered onto a dolly and the final engine hangers undone..... Then just lifted the chassis up and wheeled the engine back’ards (as we say in Yorkshire). Needed help from the boss! Then started to undo the 22mm bolts holding the brake hanger / engine mounts together. They were STUCK! Hardest bolts on the car so far.... Heat, some percussive persuasion, tickling etc sorted three of them in around an hour. Lots of oxidised dust in evidence. Near side though, with all the torque available from the 6ft pole, still wouldn’t budge it. More heat, more weight, used the engine mass to ‘wobble’ the nut on the end of the breaker bar - nothing! Adopted some strange positions trying to get enough torque without having the engine tip onto me while trying to free off this b$#&y bolt..... 30 mins of pleading / begging / shouting then MOVEMENT! The bolt head just sheared clean off.... I’d lowered the engine onto the floor for the leverage so, defeated, managed to man handle it back onto the dolly for portability and then started the process of drilling out the old bolt. Didn’t get too far through, maybe a quarter of the way, then called it a day. This is the side you may recall with the bolt sheared perpendicular to this into the brake calliper, so now it’s a double problem! At least the car is consistent. May split the bell housing so the transaxle + bell housing is more portable to take these to a work shop to get these two bolts out (or just let the gearbox people sort it when I send out for a check over). Next job will be to break down the front and start to get items off the storage racking and out for refurb, ideally with the chassis and associate parts coming back here first to begin the reassembly. Tanks and radiators can go pretty much and the suspension I need to cut those lower studs to free off the lower links. Once I’ve got the space back, the body can come inside for GRP repairs or moved to a specialist for this work, based on who has time or is interested in the project..... For now, engine is nestled at the side of the last of the chassis, waiting for choice of engine builder to be decided (and for me to work out how to actually transport it there....)
  23. What’s the process for the front chassis lower T section jack damage repair? Mines been hammered! The metal folds over from memory from front and rear. Also have some splitting on the trailing arms, just separation really but want to sort while the cars apart.....what’s the process? Thanks!
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