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Everything posted by JonSE

  1. My engineer friend has had the expansion tank for a while, but I’m going to scrap it…..he’s opened it up and I’m going to buy new, versus saving this thing…. The bottom pipe had rusted away, I had this happen on an SE I owned on the charge cooler circuit. Rot destroyed the outlet at the base of the tank, but clogged it so the tank looked full still! Led to the pump burning out!!! Is there any merit now I need a new one to adding more water capacity via a larger tank? Looking at the state of this, I expect the cooling jacket etc to be a bit compromised. Once a 100% new cooling system is installed, is there merit in still flushing the whole thing through a few times to purge it of any contaminants etc quite early on?? My plan remains to delete the heater matrix and replace with electric, but to maintain the water loop that exits C4 to allow the cooling that the matrix once brought with it. Just wondering if a restrictor is required to mimic the little radiator I’m replacing or if the full flow is ok. Could even fit an aux water pump in there at the front chassis area to help with return flow…..
  2. Are these both SJ items off the shelf or engineering solutions I need to investigate, based on the several builds where you guys blazed the trail?
  3. Thanks for all the feedback, I’ve just been rereading above responses and also the threads regarding your S1 builds, with respect to the doors……thank you for the inputs as I jumped into the side bar private reg conversation and got distracted. The build up process seems daunting @Fridge and also in view of your thread @Lotusfab, also Paul with the historical issues back in the day from your thread…. Going back to Dave’s comments about dry hanging the doors, mine came mostly complete but one was off the car, the other assembled and on the car. Both had various bits taken off, locks / window motors etc but are still complete assemblies. The NS door was complete and hung (seemed ok) so I removed this as a single unit, at the time with a view to take as a complete assembly to the painters. But it’s too heavy so I will need to strip both to get the skins off or risk them getting damaged anyway. Dave, you mentioned scoring the beams which I will do to get the approximate positions of everything anyway. Window frames have the quarters in and these are staying as appear to be in OK condition. I’ll record all the shims but to your point above Dave, the doors will need rebuilding from beam upwards anyway, so I may not faff around dry fitting them before paint and delay the rebuild as a result. Major components will be back to me soon so need to juggle the body and mechanical space around, milestone for me to get the bare painted body back on the mechanicals, but could still be a while away! Photo added of aerial hole filled in, deleting this to maintain the lines….
  4. Interesting point on the cooling! I had an S2 previously and switched the cooling ducts over so the off side rammed air into the carbs, the near side then fed the engine top end. I think the cooling provided was really marginal and only worked when the car was under way, so didn’t make much difference in traffic! I don’t think it allowed too much latent heat out at rest and really could have used a bi directional fan to extract air when stood and help draw air in when moving maybe. I’m hoping with a new cooling system / radiator, better fans and modern coolant mixed quite rich that the car can cope better than when it was new. I can always hack an ear back in but reckon I’ll fit a powerful fan in the engine cover to force air around the bay when stood. I’ll definitely have a fan over ride and will keep an eye on the gauge!
  5. I reckon by the time I sort what I need to it will be autumn and the paint guys should hopefully be ready, but want to ensure they keep it inside etc…. Reading Fabians post about electrics I’m tempted to have my loom de-taped and gone over by an auto sparky as opposed to buying new, also to add a separate fused power line forward to allow a take off for the lights, heater and windows etc under relay control. I have the colour coding so this might be the better option. Had anyone used a distribution block they could recommend for this for automotive use? Should I use 25A wire for this as would prefer too much capacity as too little!
  6. Thanks for asking! Not much progress, the mods were allowing water to pool in a couple of void areas that were created so just re-instated some 10mm drain holes to allow a couple of gallons of water to drain out. At least I hope they were voids and not ballast tanks for when it becomes a sub again…. Shell is back in garage to allow it fully cure, paint man is ready when I can present all the panels to him, so I need to strip the doors down to the shells as a priority now and strip the paint off the front bonnet to move forward…
  7. I think VAT and fees took it closer to £4.5K in the end…..good plate for someone just not me!
  8. OK, who was it?? 😁😁😁 I contacted DVLC and asked them which PPW numbers they might release in the latest sale, I asked them if PPW 306 might be available. They said not but they would release 306 PPW. Good enough I thought, very steady bidding then it caught fire and too rich for me! Well done whoever nabbed it, will look good on whichever car it goes on 👍
  9. My plan after speaking to a couple of people is to now reassemble the doors, front / rear panels and headlight pods to ensure they haven’t warped before the whole lot goes for paint. I’m really not looking forward to doing the doors but can’t justify paying someone for hours to fettle them at current rates. I think this might be the sticking point to some extent in terms of making progress this year, or I might get lucky. Aim still remains to get the car running under its own power as soon as possible, so get the panels aligned, body and chassis back together after paint, engine done and the wiring in place! Really hope to do all this in under 2 years. Plan is still to paint the body off the chassis after stripping the boot floor paint plus a few other details and sorting panel alignment. Any thoughts on the above most welcome, I’ll be going back now in detail over the @Fridgeand @Djs44 and @Lotusfabblogs plus others to determine the running order for this like a big meccano kit that needs teasing back together!
  10. Body arrived back from Chris at BOSS motors yesterday, very quick turnaround time, great progress reports and fantastic quality of work. Steve the Lotus transporter brought it back and really went out of his way to meet the deadline, so great thanks to both for helping me with this part of the work! BOSS have done a fantastic job of “simply” grafting on a couple of amendments onto the existing S2 front end to more mimic the S1. Boot floor and other areas left as-is so they can be reverted back to S2 in future if required. Sun roof filled and a new GRP front bumper as part of the deal that mimics the texture of the plastic one very closely. Body stripped ready for paint and to check for any repairs, which were pretty limited thankfully. Late S1 blade / duct arrangement dropped straight onto the S2 revised front end (thanks for that info Paul). I’ll get more pics when I get back home later but I’m delighted at turning this corner!
  11. What mod did you do in order to be able to delete the otter switch?
  12. I’ve asked the body shop today to fill the rear light cut outs in readiness for me to cut in the new SJ surrounds and find a set of X19 clusters, I’ll get the surrounds etc in order, cheers! If anyone sees any decent clusters, let me know 👍
  13. Thanks for that, I’ll reconsider, the price was around the X19 lights mostly, saw them for huge cost on eBay etc….
  14. At this phase no, I’ll re use the Rover ones to get the car mobile and then do the rear lights down the line if I can’t live with the look. I weighed up the cost and it looked like being £1000 to get the parts together I needed! Priority is to get the car moving under its own steam asap…
  15. The plan is to get the body back and then refit the doors that were off the car to ensure they don’t foul the unpainted body, ditto the front and rear hatch and the light pods. I understand this is a time intensive process and I’m no expert, so this next step may delay getting the car back together, but wouldn’t make sense to pay someone else to do if I can manage it myself. Then I’ll disassemble it again and bag the shims up with reference notes to limit any damage on reassembly after paint then have the body painted. Replacing the body onto the chassis I hope won’t bring the doors / hatches back out of true as it didn’t seem to be carrying lots of shims when it was together so hopefully minimal stress for remounting and bolting all back together again. This is where the front end has been slightly modified, added a colour to show the effect…
  16. Body shop has added a few inches of GRP to the front end to mimic the shape of the S1, below the waist line. The body shop who is a Lotus specialist left the majority of the S2 front structure in place so it can be reverted back if a future lucky owner decided that was the way to go, which also means the bobbins in the front boot space are in the same place as a benefit. They are just sharpening the lines up using a few images of S1’s I provided them, which they used originally to scale up the amendments I wanted. Also moulded a new spoiler and radiator cowl from his mould to dry fit while the car is inverted. Hopefully my S1 type radiator will fit OK into this assembly as it seems a better fit than mine was, where the radiator was just bolted into the boot floor using thin bolts and suspended from a very crude cage that had rotted out. He had a GRP bumper made up to ensure the front looked ok during the works which I’m going to buy as mine is cracked in several places and very brittle. Sun roof was filled using an original roof mould and various repairs done. I’ve also filled the radio antenna hole and the front badge holes as I’d prefer to use a decal on the nose. Chassis has been repaired by the specialist most of the lower surfaces were replaced plus a new tube added around the manifold. Now powder coated and checked for true on the jig and was surprisingly straight……
  17. Some images that I collected from the cars history referring to the above. I’m a little melancholy regards the little pup in the posh new seats of his owners car all those years ago tbh…. I’ve similar photographs of my old car somewhere. Might have mentioned before but this car was very local to me for 20 years, around half its life, but I never saw it, there’s a chance it used to visit a few doors up from me as the previous owner had family on the same street. That was a long time after these pics, which I believe were either Billingham or Sunderland in around 1996 after the car was brought up from the South Coast where it lived 91-96.
  18. The rather lovely gentleman that previously owned my car kindly got in touch and let me know he had found a large bag of history for the car, this over a year after we did the deal. I’ll put some photos up in time, but it goes from having no history to being able to see ownership history back to the mid eighties. There are also some photos of the car in period and images of the last body off restoration. In hindsight, the chassis looks great 25 years after it’s last separation from the car, but it made sense being this deep in to split it from the car and do it again. @Fridgeit looks like the car spent some decent time in your neck of the woods for a good proportion of its life. I’ll not post up personal details but might try and track some of the previous owners down to see if they recall the car.
  19. Yes, the radiator cage on mine was a real botch job, I’m not sure with mine being a relatively mid / late S2 why it was set up like this. As mine was disassembled when I bought it, I’m not sure if it’s a DIY fix using an earlier radiator to replace a broken later one. The radiator was bolted through the boot floor which to me wasn’t very satisfactory, it looked too flimsy and potential to crack. I have considered bolting the radiator to the chassis somehow as I’ve seen this on other restorations but I’m not sure how to align it with the body when it’s refitted.
  20. Thanks, do you know if they were supposed to be drilled to allow water out? Mine were full of crud and starting to go from the inside, I jet washed the chassis to stop me getting filthy every time I needed to move it and 20 years of grit and road kill came out of there! I’m going to ensure there are drain holes when it’s done and fill the whole thing with cavity wax…
  21. Hi, I don’t know if pieces were added at some point in the past when the chassis was off before, as it had been painted red and was generally in very good condition. The additional bits themselves have started to rust through so it’s a good point about the strengthening…
  22. I was going to see if a thread had been started around this very subject, so thanks for this. Were there 2X complete running vehicles on location, plus a third shell that they air cannoned off the pier? Which car did they tow out of the water (a real vehicle or another shell?) in that case? The main car is now in the Deezer collection in Florida, the sub version built by Perry is with Elon Musk, does that leave 1X (the camera car) and the air cannon shell / sea exit scene shell? For such iconic cars, I’m surprised the location of the second vehicle remains a mystery. I saw the car via a magazine article that someone had decided was the second vehicle go through the auction (then the retraction that followed). If that wasn’t it, how did it get built up to be so, including by the factory themselves? There was an older thread on here where someone believes they have the second car. As you say, knowing that and proving it would be a huge deal in terms of movie history! Pic stolen from web to balance the words!
  23. Thanks for that, I’ll check into that regards the chassis. The lower box has to come off for repair which will allow all the media out there, but I’ll see what the cleaning regime is on the rest of it before it’s committed to coating. Oil cooler location needs to be considered then, the car isn’t going to get the kind of daily use it was designed for, but is like it to cope with it if needed. I expect modern oils have come a long way in terms of keeping the set up as it. I’ve another car with a forward oil cooler and there is no way to drain it on oil changes without taking the car apart so it’s accepted there’s 2 litres of old stuff that mixes with the new every time as the pipes run very flat.
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