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JonSE

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Everything posted by JonSE

  1. I’m stripping the engine of ancillaries in preparation of sending it off for a check over while it’s out of the car. I’ve watched the two Lotus related segments below (hope links are allowed) and they have got me thinking. I’d prefer to add the later style cam wheels to allow the upgraded belt, I’ve seen these online and can get these if worthwhile? Looking at my engine image, these appear to be the older square cam teeth profiles as the original factory? Below are screen grabs of the later upgrades. I’ve been told the vernier feature is not that necessary if I’m not a
  2. Some basic engine strip down last night, starter motor off, carbs off, oil into cylinders and checked the engine was free via gently hand cranking. The water system is unusual I think, it circulates I believe all the time through the front radiator and thought it had a thermostat to divert only once it got beyond a certain temperature. I wonder if it just ran so hot the system was directly plumbed to the radiators after a bad episode maybe, but I could be confused and will dig further. I’ll send the carbs off for a rebuild somewhere in the U.K., will probably go for a higher a
  3. A short update that covered a huge amount of work, all of Saturday pretty much. Some extra work due to the fact that I use the car to store stripped items inside itself due to space limitations and this all needed to be moved around! However, probably the most progress I’ve ever made in one day ever!! Needed to remove the last steering knuckle and was ready to go.... Car is now in further bits, body has been off at least once before this. Chassis is actually so good it would have been ok to just strip the suspension assemblies right back (these are in remarkable
  4. Could anyone recommended a good supplier of fibreglass materials and the grades I should buy to accomplish various repair / filling tasks on the body? I’ve been reading up and have also received some great advice so I’m going to attempt some of the repairs myself.
  5. Thanks, 2 of these castors are braked and I’ve sited them opposite corners, the body shop that will take the shell has a really rough floor so thought opposite brakes would be good. One of my concerns was the dolly tearing the GRP where the bolts go through but I’ll keep an eye on the stress when I site it. Fridge, did think that the wheels need to be able to fit on my friends trailer for transport originally and this had slipped my mind. We’ll work a solution but reckon the dolly won’t bridge that gap, maybe chock it or something, cross that bridge when I come to it.
  6. Thanks Dave and Dr Doom, I need to see how it rests on the body for the final assembly. I did think about putting the cross sections on top but my thoughts were to spread the body load on the scaffold board or overthinking it? Some of the wood is different thickness and it would focus the stress in a few isolated points, whereas the scaffold method would run back to front. I’ve just used the bolts I have to hand but think I’ll need coach bolts unless the boards are long enough to place the trolley wheels near the existing wheel wells where the heads won’t foul. The below is as f
  7. Car restoration is obviously my second calling, the first being carpentry..... the wheels will be underneath this assembly and I’ll probably bring the long beams closer together so I can use some of the seat mount holes, but will this arrangement suffice for moving a bare body around?
  8. Would you blank and drill to the correct PCD if it’s a spare? Was considering any correct size Wolfrace wheels myself just modified for the correct PCD then powder coated chrome effect if it’s economical versus original Esprit wheels. Another question to help me as you are ahead and have done this before....... When you build the rolling chassis back up, do you do so with spring compressors to get correct setting and tighten the suspension joints with bushes to the final torque before body fitment or leave the nuts loose and just torque up once the body and other bits are back on and
  9. Had around 3 more hours today on the car. Didn’t feel like much progress and to be honest, I’m pottering about instead of getting the body off as the shell will then have to live outside in the garden under a tarp, stripped of all soft furnishings but still exposed. After many years of correct dry storage I’m keen to avoid this so may juggle some stuff around to keep the shell inside. So work today, Got the o/s fuel tank out and also managed to free up the sender. Remarkably clean inside, a couple of rust spots but the exterior nothing like the inside. Offside was much much easier, a
  10. Thanks for this. I’m going to fit some basic in line bleed valves in a few locations, my thoughts if I do retain the water heating would be to put one of them under the dashboard as well! I’ll also have one fitted to the radiator top when it goes for refurb, hopefully they can just duplicate the lower drain plug for this but once car assembled going to be hard to access. I recall on both previous Esprits running up to temp with the caps off and trying to squeeze airlocks out all around the engine. The SE had a charge cooler system that was 2 steel expansion tanks (early SE) and
  11. Thanks Fridge! Got them and it now make sense. Two fan system gone in favour of this single fan repair, but it’s a bit Heath Robinson, which is fair enough. Been thinking since back from the garage, I could keep all the manifold gubbins safe for future potential use and run the combined heater element / fan in the manifolds place. I’d keep forced fresh air via this system through the old bulkhead area as they can run without the element active and just deliver unheated air to the cabin. I’d loop the engine output back on itself or T the heater water into the radiator pipes if th
  12. Thanks Dr Doom, several are absent fully but I’ll keep looking as ideally I want the original type back in the car. Dash metal has been cut to accept replacements so someone was committed..... Heater matrix box manifold thing now out of the car and what appears to be an associate MK3 Cavalier replacement blower unit. I’m not an expert or anything, it just has it written on! The replacement fan casing has been hacked about to mount to the bulkhead. The slider controls were partially connected so even if it worked, the heat or cold output was fixed to one set of vents be
  13. Thanks Fridge! Very good points, seen the AutoSparks loom for the S2 and understand these are good. Great idea regards a take off for the lights and windows, had only considered beefing the starter circuit so will do this. I may take the feed from the other end of the positive wire from the battery (starter motor?) for this. I’m afraid the loom since you saw it has thrown up more challenges. Regards the relays, I’d still like them at least in one location and not just self tapped into the front lip but mounted a little more neatly somehow. I’ll see where I am when the
  14. Thank for this information!
  15. My thoughts would be to replace any cut or damaged wire with a complete new run. I’ve got one wire that has been patched 8 times in a serial repair using different gauges, it’s a wonder the car is still with us. Just reread your thread and your advice again above, thank you for the details regards switching and power wires etc. Looking at the spread of relays and fuses, I think the front may be a better solution to house all these in one place in an after market module (or 2) housed in a shoe box sized unit for for the purpose as suggested. I’m just weighing up if it is che
  16. Your welcome, really enjoyed that. They really downplayed the Lotus involvement, they made a terrible car drivable by all accounts and offered to build it. I knew a race driver that knew Chapman and he always blamed the Delorean stress directly for his death, saying it was the biggest mess he’d seen. Just opinions but who knows?
  17. Thank you Fabian, The loom is a real mess. I’ve followed your post and I’m thinking of doing as you say. A forum member was kind enough to send me an S2 wiring diagram they had fully colour coded so when I lay the loom out, I can do as you say, strip back and rebuild every single wire. There is cut after cut, dead ends, ring circuits and spurs all over this after market. Ignition barrel is gone for race car start, original switches gone and replaced with (probably better but none original) other switches in their place. I’m also considering using the glove box fully for housing the relay
  18. For U.K. based people, there’s a Delorean Documentary series starting on BBC2 tonight at 9PM.
  19. Would anyone what these are and why they would be mounted deep in the dash above the radio?
  20. January blues so haven’t got much done recently. Had around 4 hours today, so picked myself up and went back to the dashboard, finally worked the bolts free. Sod of a job getting the dash off but at least can see how it’s goes back together. Self tappers in the glove box wouldn’t budge, drilled them and eventually used brute force / chisel to release them. Worked my forward with the steering column to release the pedal box as well, happy to get this out. The steering knuckle may ruin my eventual body lift party as its loose both inside and out the car but not releasing. Think it
  21. I think it looks good. Was the original all red and the highlights sanded back to metal?
  22. Thank you, re-read that thread after your image above Dr D. Thanks Giorgio regards PNM, I’ll check with Pete, Best Regards, Jon.
  23. Happy New Year! Minimal jobs on the car over Christmas, phone calls to specialists regards carb rebuilds / shell transportation and such though in readiness. Few questions if anyone can help! I’ve procured some scaffold boards to build the body dolly and as mentioned before got some lovely castors off eBay. I was going to mount via the seat holes but these are quite close together front and rear and I’m concerned regards the stresses, even though I would spread these loads as much as possible. What is the best solution you’ve found for dolly mount locations? The body
  24. Hi, Lovely car! Foulds Motors in Huddersfield are well versed in the older cars, I’ve taken my cars to them from Leeds in the past. Best Regards, Jon.
  25. Hi, It would have been great if this was the actual car your dad owned as it would have been lovely to build the history, but I don’t think the number of owners, colour dates, VRM and date of first registration match your vehicle (the GCF car was kindly shown on my thread as it was a similar looking vehicle to mine originally but isn’t related). My car was originally bronze, then red and black though in the past but it’s most recent DVLA description is black, a colour it’s carried I believe for around 20 years or so now, but definitely since last SORN in around 2013. Looking
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