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Everything posted by JonSE

  1. Car restoration is obviously my second calling, the first being carpentry..... the wheels will be underneath this assembly and I’ll probably bring the long beams closer together so I can use some of the seat mount holes, but will this arrangement suffice for moving a bare body around?
  2. Would you blank and drill to the correct PCD if it’s a spare? Was considering any correct size Wolfrace wheels myself just modified for the correct PCD then powder coated chrome effect if it’s economical versus original Esprit wheels. Another question to help me as you are ahead and have done this before....... When you build the rolling chassis back up, do you do so with spring compressors to get correct setting and tighten the suspension joints with bushes to the final torque before body fitment or leave the nuts loose and just torque up once the body and other bits are back on and the correct weight is more or less applied? Will you need spring compressors to get the suspension apart once the body is lifted off or is enough tension released to just undo the springs? My roofer is very busy this time of year........
  3. Had around 3 more hours today on the car. Didn’t feel like much progress and to be honest, I’m pottering about instead of getting the body off as the shell will then have to live outside in the garden under a tarp, stripped of all soft furnishings but still exposed. After many years of correct dry storage I’m keen to avoid this so may juggle some stuff around to keep the shell inside. So work today, Got the o/s fuel tank out and also managed to free up the sender. Remarkably clean inside, a couple of rust spots but the exterior nothing like the inside. Offside was much much easier, also aided by the side glass being out. Will still send the tanks away with the radiator for a full refurb before they go back in. I think I’ve reached a conclusion of what I’m going to do regards the wet heating system. I’m going to fully refurbish the heater box and it’s little radiator (ideally farming this out!) then reinstall it fully piped and connected to the dash controls as before. However, the non original external fan I’ll replace with a combined fan / heater unit and run a decent feed wire from the starter motor to it. I’ll not connect the wet system but just loop the hose around the engine close loop on the water side and bung the pipes to protect them dry side, the through chassis pipes etc I’ll also replace with new. This way if I later to decide to have water in the car I can do this via just reconnecting in the engine compartment otherwise manage on heat blown in through the new electrical system which will just pass through the dry matrix. It’s all original, the flaps will still give the same function via the dash but I’ll just need a hidden switch for heat. Got a free scraper from under the tank, got a spanner from the other side so tool kit coming together. Foam was in remarkable condition as was the metal on the under side of the tank. This will be replaced with black yoga mat type stuff. I also pulled one of the cam covers off to see if I could see anything untoward while avoiding something more pressing that would actually count as progress. I’m not expert but it seems clean at least, no swarfe. It will be going off for a strip down and check over later this year. I think back to black paint for the covers with the top skimmed to leave LOTUS in metal. I’m thinking of not replacing the vertical carpet that goes on the bulkhead engine side but tidying the area and painting black. The bulkhead window came out today and the seal is 50% compromised with what looks like original sorbit failing to stick it in place. It must have stank and been noisy in the cabin and the gap looks factory. The pseudo Velcro tabs that hold the boards that cover the fuel tank area I’ll think I’ll drill out and use hidden bolts to fix these in place as the Velcro property looks to have failed a long time ago. Both offside tyres have gone flat crushing my favourite yellow garage bowl that was there to capture any residual fuel in the tubes, grrrr!! Took last of the loom off the engine, which is actually a big box of splices held together with short sections of wire I now believe. Part of me is wondering if this will all ever go back together so trying to think in terms of small jobs and not get too overwhelmed! I think I’m going to remove the dash brace bar and have it powder coated or paint it just while I’m this deep in. Thoughts at this stage are that I’ll have the car retrimmed. Loathe to lose the little original finish that’s left but the binnacle has been hacked as well as the door cards and the glove box has a handle drilled through the material. The seats, binnacle, A pillar and bulkhead all needed doing anyway so I think it would show up what’s left. I’m going to try and get it as close as possible to original (so reverse the over stuffing on the seats for example) but I really love the idea of the scheme below. I know it’s not original but that inside a white car really appeals to me! It’s becoming apparent to me how much graft and care the previous owner invested in the strip down and how well the car has been looked after in terms of 60K miles or so, the loom aside which was adapted for various alarms and replacement switches etc. Body has been off for some reason on the past so I’m hoping for no surprises, some bolts were missing, other than that there’s not much sign of hacking around luckily and the car is a sound base....
  4. Thanks for this. I’m going to fit some basic in line bleed valves in a few locations, my thoughts if I do retain the water heating would be to put one of them under the dashboard as well! I’ll also have one fitted to the radiator top when it goes for refurb, hopefully they can just duplicate the lower drain plug for this but once car assembled going to be hard to access. I recall on both previous Esprits running up to temp with the caps off and trying to squeeze airlocks out all around the engine. The SE had a charge cooler system that was 2 steel expansion tanks (early SE) and the charge cooler one looked full of lovely green coolant. Upon removal, the lower pipe was so full of corrosion, no water was getting to the impeller and it had burned itself out. Pig of an exchange job, the bore of the pipes just not meant to accommodate 15 years of actual use! I think I ran an open thermostat in both SE and S2 upon filling to at least get fluid round and when it cooled replaced with the real ones and tipped up again. I was filling the S2 up quite frequently at one point due to a pump seep so would also disconnect the radiator fill hose on the engine and pour neat antifreeze in to try and top it up. Remarkable amount of fluid went in but the expansion tank always seemed to settle around 2/3 full after dumping some out. One mechanic mentioned the pumps were more like weak impellers in terms of volume they shift so I did consider fitting and electric one instead, this would need to be near the fuel pump to allow a head of water. I did have one of these on a V8 engined car and it was great at taking residual heat out of the system when the engine was off. Body is now ready for lifting, just need to carefully remove the heater plenum, windscreen motor and the bonnet catches but this isn’t holding me up. Loom is loose ready to carefully withdraw. I’m then stuck as I need to sort some storage to allow work to continue on the 2 separate parts of the car and getting 4 people round to my house seems to be mission impossible in early 2021! On a positive note, found my 1/4 inch extender bar wedged into the steering knuckle that I thought I’d lost. Need to tap that out from the other side and body will hopefully just lift off!
  5. Thanks Fridge! Got them and it now make sense. Two fan system gone in favour of this single fan repair, but it’s a bit Heath Robinson, which is fair enough. Been thinking since back from the garage, I could keep all the manifold gubbins safe for future potential use and run the combined heater element / fan in the manifolds place. I’d keep forced fresh air via this system through the old bulkhead area as they can run without the element active and just deliver unheated air to the cabin. I’d loop the engine output back on itself or T the heater water into the radiator pipes if there’s any reason to ensure the water is colder on the way back in. I’ll see if any original fans exist to restore as is in parallel but simplifying this down to one small 2Kg box and removing a lot of the original system (reversible) does appeal at the moment for the type of use I’m going to get from the car.... Couple of versions below, one requiring water and the other just electrical......
  6. Thanks Dr Doom, several are absent fully but I’ll keep looking as ideally I want the original type back in the car. Dash metal has been cut to accept replacements so someone was committed..... Heater matrix box manifold thing now out of the car and what appears to be an associate MK3 Cavalier replacement blower unit. I’m not an expert or anything, it just has it written on! The replacement fan casing has been hacked about to mount to the bulkhead. The slider controls were partially connected so even if it worked, the heat or cold output was fixed to one set of vents before. I’m still considering a joint electric blower heater to replace the current arrangement, I won’t install this fan back in anyway in this state, I’d rehouse it as it was just held in with 2X self tappers quite loosely. I can at least see how the airflow now comes in from the bonnet vent and down through the half in / half out the car arrangement and the water drains in case the rain gets in. Also how the air is sucked up to prevent water ingress. The manifold box operates easily but the usual activator stalk has broken for one of the functions. Foam is disintegrated inside the box and it needs the strip down that I’ve viewed on here from Fridge. I may replace the water heated radiator with a modern electric fan run on a separate circuit from the battery but embed it into the existing manifold. Space would be tight as the original fan is outside the air manifold, but I’m also thinking of not reinstalling the 2 face level vents an S2 had (one in the binnacle and one on the dash) and deleting the apertures for these, the dash area it frees up I can install other switches of the same type I need for other functions. The vent system would then effectively be cold or hot blown down to feet or up to windscreen. From memory filling the heating circuit takes some doing and I’m not sure this one has seen water for quite some time. I am not keen to be back into this part of the car ever again, so going to weigh everything up. A very basic electrical heating system appeals at the moment! Still wondering why the body has been off the car in the past and what other things I might discover, been an enjoyable few hours making progress, but keep telling myself any idiot can take the thing apart......
  7. Thanks Fridge! Very good points, seen the AutoSparks loom for the S2 and understand these are good. Great idea regards a take off for the lights and windows, had only considered beefing the starter circuit so will do this. I may take the feed from the other end of the positive wire from the battery (starter motor?) for this. I’m afraid the loom since you saw it has thrown up more challenges. Regards the relays, I’d still like them at least in one location and not just self tapped into the front lip but mounted a little more neatly somehow. I’ll see where I am when the loom is out. I think the original window and fan switches may have burned out based on your info above, there may already be subsidiary relays in place as the replacement switches look less capable.....
  8. My thoughts would be to replace any cut or damaged wire with a complete new run. I’ve got one wire that has been patched 8 times in a serial repair using different gauges, it’s a wonder the car is still with us. Just reread your thread and your advice again above, thank you for the details regards switching and power wires etc. Looking at the spread of relays and fuses, I think the front may be a better solution to house all these in one place in an after market module (or 2) housed in a shoe box sized unit for for the purpose as suggested. I’m just weighing up if it is cheaper to buy a whole new loom from those guys you signpost or work the one I have which will need complete tape removal then rebuilding. If I can master it, I will probably in reality redo every run in this manner and build up a new one so I’m not sure yet of which route. Doing mine would at least teach me how the electrics work in preparation for using it and I reckon I can call others in if I get too stuck. Ideally I’d be able to put a couple of multi connectors behind the binnacle but aside from losing originality, it appeals having all the electrics in one place in the front compartment with blade fuses and modern relays. I think you determined Fabian not to bother with window relays in the end? I’ll know more when I get the loom clear, hopefully this weekend if it goes to plan. The wiring phases me less I think than trying to source the myriad types of sockets and plugs the car uses at the utility end of the circuit (switches etc). The switches appear hard wired in some cases, others have a socket base which was the same as my other Esprit I think. Is there any way to improve on the earthing provision? I did consider running an earth feed round the car like a ring main to branch off. There were numerous failed corroded spade connectors to chassis mounts and even localised earthing in the back to replace the daisy chains of light earths seem a better solution! Ideally I’d boost the wire gauge and definitely run the high drain stuff on much thicker cable, adding more relays to anything where it’s required. I’m also going to fit a coil and fuel pump isolator switch in the cabin alongside fan override. Not too bothered about a radio really apart from the aperture for it needs something.
  9. Your welcome, really enjoyed that. They really downplayed the Lotus involvement, they made a terrible car drivable by all accounts and offered to build it. I knew a race driver that knew Chapman and he always blamed the Delorean stress directly for his death, saying it was the biggest mess he’d seen. Just opinions but who knows?
  10. Thank you Fabian, The loom is a real mess. I’ve followed your post and I’m thinking of doing as you say. A forum member was kind enough to send me an S2 wiring diagram they had fully colour coded so when I lay the loom out, I can do as you say, strip back and rebuild every single wire. There is cut after cut, dead ends, ring circuits and spurs all over this after market. Ignition barrel is gone for race car start, original switches gone and replaced with (probably better but none original) other switches in their place. I’m also considering using the glove box fully for housing the relay and fuse system and upgrading to blades. Just balancing your experience of fixing the old or going new and hoping the new loom has all the requirements as I know you spent ages on it. loom will be out of the car and ready for laying out soon, might even pass to a local auto electrical guy to chase and re terminate the whole thing after surveying with the colour diagram. Loom was partially disconnected any way but with relays etc still in situ so I don’t have the full picture of what may have worked before. The hacking for several alarm installs over the years is bewildering!
  11. For U.K. based people, there’s a Delorean Documentary series starting on BBC2 tonight at 9PM.
  12. Would anyone what these are and why they would be mounted deep in the dash above the radio?
  13. January blues so haven’t got much done recently. Had around 4 hours today, so picked myself up and went back to the dashboard, finally worked the bolts free. Sod of a job getting the dash off but at least can see how it’s goes back together. Self tappers in the glove box wouldn’t budge, drilled them and eventually used brute force / chisel to release them. Worked my forward with the steering column to release the pedal box as well, happy to get this out. The steering knuckle may ruin my eventual body lift party as its loose both inside and out the car but not releasing. Think it will come out with a little more persuasion from the other side. Freed off the inner sill that covers the handbrake and seatbelt mount. Have previously drilled the sill rivets but if it wasn’t for the seat belt mounts would certainly not be taking these off. Come to the conclusion I’ve 2 looms worth of cable in the car, huge amount of splices and cuts in it. Started to withdraw it as it’s coming out for either a refurb of replacement. 2X alarm systems spliced in, an immobiliser and lots of dead ends. Spider looked very settled, going to name him Lucas......
  14. I think it looks good. Was the original all red and the highlights sanded back to metal?
  15. Thank you, re-read that thread after your image above Dr D. Thanks Giorgio regards PNM, I’ll check with Pete, Best Regards, Jon.
  16. Happy New Year! Minimal jobs on the car over Christmas, phone calls to specialists regards carb rebuilds / shell transportation and such though in readiness. Few questions if anyone can help! I’ve procured some scaffold boards to build the body dolly and as mentioned before got some lovely castors off eBay. I was going to mount via the seat holes but these are quite close together front and rear and I’m concerned regards the stresses, even though I would spread these loads as much as possible. What is the best solution you’ve found for dolly mount locations? The body will need to be transported so I’m also thinking of keeping the wheels in the same track position as the road wheels to enable it to go on a transporter via the ramps? The Image replica slot mags have caught my eye again, has anyone gone this route? I’d want wheels to look OEM as possible but if small tweaks can be made to allow better tyre selection, I might go this way. I’ve been chasing alloy wheel cracks in my daily car for a few years now which is making me think about very old alloys and whether it’s worth the trouble / cost over new ones. A full set of Image wheels though will be more expensive than the Wolfrace equivalents (if I can find any!) Phase one will be to refurb and re-tyre the Speedlines but interested in any views. Finally, chassis questions. Is there any U.K. firm that specialises in chassis alignment regards this age of Esprit? I don’t know what I’ll find when I lift the body but if it’s not true, I may explore getting it realigned. I’m veering away from hot dip galvanising regards potential warping, but would an already warped chassis potentially further warped by hot dipping then be beyond forceful realignment or are there too many variables to call? It’s never going to be a track car but I’d like to get it as good as I can while it’s apart. Lastly, the double folded steel that forms the lower front box section that is often damaged via jacking. What is the guidance to repair this area I can impart to a welder if I do this locally? Ideally I’d like the welds unstitching, the metal folding back and that area of metal fully replacing (both sheets) but has anyone done this before? The cuts will be on the metal folds which I’m not sure is a good thing, but I don’t want to just plate over what’s already there. Is it worth then adding a further plate for this area (maybe making provision for a removable sheet) to protect it in future / or using a thicker grade for the main repair? Any advice / musings I will add to the list of considerations, thank you!
  17. Hi, Lovely car! Foulds Motors in Huddersfield are well versed in the older cars, I’ve taken my cars to them from Leeds in the past. Best Regards, Jon.
  18. Hi, It would have been great if this was the actual car your dad owned as it would have been lovely to build the history, but I don’t think the number of owners, colour dates, VRM and date of first registration match your vehicle (the GCF car was kindly shown on my thread as it was a similar looking vehicle to mine originally but isn’t related). My car was originally bronze, then red and black though in the past but it’s most recent DVLA description is black, a colour it’s carried I believe for around 20 years or so now, but definitely since last SORN in around 2013. Looking at the details above, there could be a chance that the car I own and your dads old car left the factory originally in the same or very similar specification and in the same month but around a year apart. Good luck finding the car, I was in a similar position to you and just noticed by chance an old Esprit of mine resurfacing after many years so it does happen!
  19. Thanks for this. I intend to buy two new window switches and a fan switch in the original style, ideally for when the loom is ready (but I’ll live with these replacements in the meantime if I can’t find any). Thanks for the dash info, once that and the heater matrix and fan are out and the sills off, the body is ready to be sent for grp and paint prep.
  20. 😁 Forgot my tapping stick was in shot! Luckily not needed thus far. A bit of a closer look at the loom..... Many breaks / taps that are loose. Ignition butchered for remote start. Evidence of a couple of cuts for immobilisers. Multiple junctions added for modifying different switch types. Window lifter switches and heater fan switches replaced for non original and masks also cut to accommodate them. Horn button hot wired in to dash. Fog light circuit added. Seat belt light circuit missing. Some additional relays buried deep behind the radio! A couple of aftermarket switches floating around the binnacle area plus another red indicator to add to the two extra alarm LED’s. Quite a few dead ends, just loose wires with no terminations floating around! Wondering wether to replace or to fix. Was going to leave in situ (and have been reconnecting everything after disassembly of the binnacle) to allow the car to be re wired after assembly but it’s as close now to being able to take it out and remedy it fresh outside the shell. It will be going off somewhere for the fix or replaced with a new loom based on the advice of the eventual electrician I engage to help get it back together! Really concerned the rats nest in its current state could be a risk to the car, a lot of cuts and shunts around where the ignition barrel used to live..... Got the stalks off, O/S is really grinding due to rust on the contacts. Added oil / penetrating fluid to it and been cycling it to try and free it off. Works OK with oil but then WD makes it sticky again, may look at finely sanding the contacts. Feels deep in to this today with not much progress to getting the lower dash out still.....
  21. Back inside the car today to further disassemble the binnacle with a view to getting the lower dash off for the matrix (otherwise wouldn’t be going this far in!) The instruments were held in with a metal mask, not sure if original but it wasn’t fixed. Deeper investigation of the loom and it’s really been hacked around, possibly with one wire melting that runs across the central tunnel. Was glad to see the instrument bezels rotate off to allow access to the plastic or glass screens, I’ll be able to clean them up without needing to send them away. Based what I discover regards the current mask, I may just spray this matte black as it looks ok. Think it’s a replacement screen as found some small cubes of glass hidden in the binnacle. Think the horn on the stalk push had been replaced with a momentary push button as one of the wires on the stalk is broken. They’d put this where the dimmer switch is for the dash instruments, moving the dimmer under the binnacle. The small part of the dash under the binnacle was held in with 2X self tappers and is in good condition.
  22. Thanks for the responses regards paint. I’ve been investigating chassis treatments this weekend, I’m swaying towards hot dip galvanisation after having the chassis blasted and repaired where required. What is the process for fixing the jacking dents under the front 2 ply box section? Do you unpick the folded metal sleeves / flaps and then replace them? I’ve seen ones repaired where they look lovely and flat, that’s the finish I’d like to achieve.
  23. Thank you both for this. I’ll be doing this (if I do take it on) by hand only to prevent any over zealous incursions into the GRP. How will I know if I’ve gone too far into the top coat and is the remedy to add resin cure back to the compromised area? The PO must have spent some decent hours removing several paint layers and I don’t think the GRP is compromised but a couple of panels have been redone in primer which I want to gently remove again. I tried some 120 gently and this gives a good rate of removal of some of the guide coat and plenty of notice when it goes cream coloured. Just to check - it’s OK to get to this cream coloured layer all over the car? I’m not doing damage getting back to this point (I don’t think my work could deliver any other result as the paint is patchy all over anyway). Paint artisans after myself will get the technical prep work, I was just hoping to save a few hours labour cost by exposing what I could of the bare body. But not at the cost of me potentially damaging anything! Appreciate specialists may be hiding behind their hands but would be keen to see what I might be able to do. I’ll be keeping well clear of any crease lines in the body! Image below of same area wiped with damp rag.
  24. Outstanding levels of finish, truly amazing! The transition to this stage must be so exciting when on a restoration project.
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