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tactical lizard

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  1. Finally had a bit of time to look at this, I ordered a bolt, camber washer and the plate to have a look at what can be done... I'm flying a little blind as I do not know how much an extra mm affects the camber in degrees. Looking at the OE part the bolt can move a total of 11mm. With that little bit of info I decided on making a plate with +5 and +7.5mm, so that there is overlap from a maxed out standard plate. To keep costs down as low as possible it is made from two laser cut plates that are stacked to make the final part. This also enables the same two plates to be used in all four positions on the car. The lower plate is the same thickness as the standard part (1.5mm) and the upper plate is 3mm to match the raised/punched parts. The only other thing I am unsure about is the metal which is used. it looks like its zinc plated steel, its magnetic. and looking at the ones installed on my car they are starting to rust. And I guess zinc coated would make sense on the galvanic corrosion front. anyone any other thoughts? Probably the best thing to do would be to get them powder coated or simply spray paint them. I'm going to order some next week and combine them with the Spitfire steering arms to get more camber. The spitfire arms have a 4mm camber difference over stock so I'm hoping the ability to go to 7.5mm on the rear should more than cover it. I've got to order 3 sets minimum so if anyone wants a set let me know, works out at £37 for the laser cutting per set.
  2. How are you finding wear rates on the ar1's? I find the cup 2s last many trackdays and thus makes them quite a cheap trackday tyre
  3. Yes that could be a possibility although it looks like the cam washer is snugly fit in the raised bits of the plate. I guess it is like that to help the alignment shop to set it precisely. i will order some bits and see what can be done. Initial thoughts without seeing anything would be to stack two laser cut plates together, one for the main plate and the other plate to grasp the cam washer. For adjustment could just change out the second plate with different offset rivet holes. or If you could replace the rivets with bolts then you could elongate the rivet holes in the plates and provide some rough adjustment before using the cam bolt.
  4. Ah nice, I think I'll order some standard plates and get to work on CAD then.
  5. 6 might be a bit much 😎. Where did you get these from?, I have found some here: the pricing is quite spicy, although they do look good kit. I was wondering about this, would be a lot cheaper to get some new plates laser cut. the only thing is how much room is there on the chassis hole behind the plate? it looks like it is elongated but is it big enough to allow 3 degrees? Thanks
  6. Ok might look into getting that kit. How did you get 3 degrees on the rear? I see on your previous posts you was struggling getting past 2 degrees. Think I'm maxed at 2.2 with standard parts.
  7. Is this the bump steer kit you have?: Is it good? or do you think you may want even more camber in the future?
  8. No, not the shark fin. My exige came with a shark fin but also some clear PPF that covers the rear arch and extends towards the rear of the door. I didn't know it was there until the Detailing chap pointed it out. I'm saying you should check your car to see if there is some PPF already fitted from the factory. Then you would not need the shark fin, although it would look good, so get it anyway! Think you can also source the shark fin decals from the deroure website.
  9. Might want to check your car closely and see if theres some factory PPF already in that location. id be surprised if there wasn't.
  10. That's a shame! I think I know what you've done with the box section as I tried it myself. Mount the folded brackets onto the box section and do away with the movable rails. You gain most room by tilting the seat. I gained 66mm with my brackets, however you lose leg room and there's no chance of a harness bar fitting with the amount of tilt I have them set at.
  11. I recently met @Hickster at a track day and he told me that Bell & Covill where supplying some Lotus FIA rails to lower the seat. Might be worth asking him how he got on with them. I believe they are on this page: I did originally see these before making my own but i could not make sense of how they fit when compared to the standard rails with all the folded sheet steel to line the seat holes up. And how does the seat belt fasten to the brackets? theres no hole for it. Unless of course there are additional parts not displayed. One other thing with those FIA brackets, they are listed on this page: which is for the older cars, which may mean that they do not fit the newer cars like the tall rails did not fit @RP420's car.
  12. I had no issues at Bedford with the lotus track exhaust. So I guess you could say it is quieter than the 2bular.
  13. Oh thats weird... It showed at £2200ish yesterday, I was checking the price and noted it was similar to the 2bular. I wouldn't have bothered posting the link if there was only 84 pence in it. Guess I'm still technically correct though... it is a "bit" cheaper 😂
  14. Think it's a bit cheaper here.
  15. Pretty sure all backboxes are fitted the same way. Depends what track you are going to, Ive been on Croft, Donnington, Cadwell and Oulton with the standard exhaust. some tracks only do drive by noise monitoring so some tactical lifting of the throttle will make everything fine. Cadwell was the only close one for me with the static test was fluctuating from 105 to 106db but was allowed on at 105db. I have the lotus track exhaust now which will get you on anywhere but if you are mainly doing tracks with a high db allowance then maybe make something like @Paul_D did with his slip on cannister. Certainly alot cheaper than the Lotus and 2bular offerings.
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