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Posts posted by pan

  1. 10 hours ago, Jacques said:


    Is this still relevant?

    The Lotus S4s sports seats, what are they like? Are they like the GT3 with no extra seat belt holes, or more like the Sport300 or different?

    Kind regards,



    I think sport seats from S4s and GT3 are the same, and sport300 one is different from them, not only the extra seat belt seat. The seat shells can be still ordered from SWLC or other.



  2. On 22/10/2019 at 09:33, Giniw said:

    Unfortunately I can't help but I am looking for the any available infos on the S4s sports seats too ... Would you mind sharing the photos you already have? That would be quite helpful! :)

    I once found a Spanish seller who have (had?) a S4s with the original sport seats but he couldn't/wouldn't take any more photos than the one in his car ad.

    If you want some photos, I can send to you.

    • Love 1
  3. Hello all,

    I would like to have my seat shells trimmed as same as the S4S sport seat.

    Mr. Mike already helped me a lot to send some photos to me, but the trimming shop advises me to send some photos of the rear of the seats, especially the headrest area and under the headrest area to see how and where the drawstring works, and the photos of the underside of the leading edge of the cushion on the seat are needed too.

    If you have the S4S sport seats in your car, would you do me a favor and send me some photos? I really appreciate it.

    thank you.





  4. On 18/03/2019 at 04:09, MarkKassim said:

    Hi Pan, I take it the  V band flange is for the connection of the rear system to the turbo, Leon can help you with that , you will have to send him the dimensions. 

    The difference in the pipe layout is only changed for production , they are still collect in the same order , just 2 overlaps 3 or 3 overlaps 2.

               Hi Franco, for our needs I think the internal wastegate is fine. I know the external units can have better flow ,but they are very expensive and are really used on professional 

    race cars. I know the S3 Esprits use one ,Alunox developed that set-up so it was a direct replacement. 

    After dynoing my car I found I needed the Stiffer spring in the wastegate, as the flow characteristics of the Alunox manifold blew the wastegate open. The medium spring couldn't hold it.

    If you were going for very high power say around 500BHP then maybe go for the external.


    Mark, both of the inlet and outlet of turbine are V band but with different size, Is it possible to send Alunox the turbocharger or  turbine side for alignment?


  5. 14 hours ago, plumdeplakmuis said:

    Hello Pan, what power level are you plan on running? 

    G25-660 is a very good unit, fairly compact for the flow with very high EGT capability and available as a integrated wastegate unit as well. But spool-up of the EFR is better due to TiAl turbine which is 40% lighter than standard wheel material and 50% lighter than G25 high temp material, so if you don't go for more than 500hp i think EFR would be the better solution.  But if you go over that it might be easier to fit G25-660 over EFR 7670 packaging wise. 

    Around 400whp. I want a really fast spool up time and response. it seems that g25 series is a good choice for this and its efficiecy is much better than EFR7670 , it has smaller compressor and turbine wheel and I can choose a 0.72 turbine housing.  So I think it can compensate its weight. But G25 is lack of the choice for turbine flange and no twin scroll choice for 0.72 A/R.

  6. 7 hours ago, MarkKassim said:

    Hi looks like we have similar ideas, a T4 turbo flange is available from Alunox and comes with the larger collector 


    I will post the final dyno results when I finish. I'm running the BorgWarner  EFR6258-G Twin Scroll Turbo supplied by Van Der Lee Turbo Systems.

    Hello mark, Can I order a V band flange?I plan to run Garrett G25-660.

    My MKII seems too close to chassis tube, I would like to buy a MKIII

    are there two version of MKIII? It seems that they have big difference at downpipes from cylinder 2 & 3, one is similar to MKII, another one is a different design.




  7. On 21/02/2015 at 04:39, Vulcan Grey said:

    I would not do that unless you have done something to verify the A:F, modified the ECU programming for a 3Bar sensor, and added more fueling!!!


    The ECU controls boost via the boost control frequency valve connected to the wastegate.  That is a PWM (pulse width modulated) computer controlled bleed valve, much better than a manual boost controller.


    The real problem with increasing boost is that the tables for the map sensor in the ECU are limits to that 2Bar MAP sensor!  The Esprit boost is already at the limits of that MAP sensor, if you increase boost beyond the limits of that sensor, then the fuel flow will not be correct for that much boost, and you will go lean.  The ECU has control over the boost normally, and it will try to protect the engine from overboost, or a lean condition, but it you add a manual bleed valve as a second boost controller, then you take that ability away from the ECU.

    Hello Travis,

    This is my own idea.

    HKS Power Editor( can rearrange the output voltage of 3 bar sensor to the range of 2 bar sensor sent to ECU, and if offset the output voltage to cheat the ECU what the actual boost level is, the boost level can be over 2.07 bar while ECU still can take control.  

    The boost level is a parameter to the control of the fuel delivery and sparking time.

    The boost level read by ECU is lower than the actual boost level, It may make the car run lean or advance the sparking time(the lower the boost is, the more advance sparking time can be), but the pulse width for the fuel injectors will be increased automatically to approach the pre-set A/F ratio.

    Is it a good way to increase the boost level?


  8. On 18/12/2018 at 02:34, chris said:

    I didn’t notice any difference in lag characteristics between the 2 chargecoolers.  Obviously it’s possible just didn’t change the way the car felt to me when driving. I did however notice a difference when I swapped the turbo out to a hybrid unit similar to the S4 spec but that was to be expected as my original T3 was smaller and couldn’t give me the power I’m looking for without getting itself all hot and bothered. 

    Are you going for increased performance or just looking to keep everything cool?

    If performance then I don’t think you will see as much of an increase as you would with a larger cc and rad. If it’s purely a way to aid cooling then you could look at spraying water in front of the rad (I think some of the Jpn cars use this technique on the air to air inter coolers) no idea how effective it is though! 


    On 18/12/2018 at 00:36, Chillidoggy said:

    A couple of photos of it for you.

    The ProAlloy website item doesn’t seem to show the pipes, but it’s a shitty photo. I had very good dealings with them, so I suggest an email to Chris at ProAlloy. Mention my name, tell him he used my CC for his prototype if you like.

    I should add that the main reason for me going to ProAlloy was I needed a new CC and they were obsolete at the time, not sure if that’s still the case, though. 



    Thanks for the inputs.

    I think I will go for an more efficient C/C system as I have no idea how to tune a meth/water injection system, It could be worse at A/F ratio without a good tuning.


  9. On 16/12/2018 at 19:57, chris said:

    I fitted the aquamist system in an attempt to stop pre-ignition, therefore any performance gain I got was down to upping the boost level rather than the water inj. At that time my car was running carbs and a dizzy and so no changes to the timing.

    Although Lotus used the air con rad on the S300 you dont need to loose the air con to do this!

    I simply replaced the original C/C rad with a more modern and bigger aluminium unit.  You can see some pics of the install on my project page  (if your interested), its entitled "the never ending project".

    When i swapped from the standard C/C to the Alunox version, the intake temp went from 80 degrees and climbing (on rolling Rd) to being able to maintain a constant 60 degrees.  I have since fitted a heat barrier and turbo jacket from Funk motorsport and the larger C/C rad which has brought the intake temps down further.

    Water/meth is definitely the cheaper option however IMO performance bang for buck has to be C/C route + its power on tap all the time without needing to ensure the water/meth reservoir is topped up.   


    I was told that bigger chargecooler should be paired with larger or more efficient cc rad, bigger c/c will add more turbo lag but meth/water injection won’t. Alunox c/c should be a good product but it is too big for me, I prefer the r&b one.

    On 16/12/2018 at 21:35, Chillidoggy said:

    Pan, ProAlloy made me a more efficient charge-cooler heat exchanger, it seems to work well. Maybe have a look at their website, although I see the one they’re selling now has put got the same pipes as my prototype version. You can probably see it on my refurb thread somewhere.

     Jonwat - A word about water injection into turbos, we used to mix a chemical called Rochem RACC with water, and spray it into the turbo inlets on our marine diesels to clean the tracts and blades. The mechanical impinging of the droplets and chemical mixture was the key. Made the engines cough a bit, but it certainly did the job, and as far as I know, condensation wasn’t an issue. That said, the Esprit turbos are much smaller, so things may be different with them.

    Thx Ian, 

    Proalloy was my first choice before but I couldn’t  find any comment about it. The cc rad listed at their website is as same as yours and can be fitted perfectly without any modification?

  10. 22 hours ago, Jacques said:

    Mine are not these dimensions and they are original. I am told by all Wheel lip makers, that I should measure either total width and then subtract 1/4", or lay the outer lip down on a flat surface (say my working table in the garage), and then measure from top of the bolt patern, to the outer edge. That gives the exact same result for the lips. 2,25" front and 2,75" rear.

    Does it make sense?

    Kind regards,


    You’d better order a 3.25J one and compare with your stock one, and you will know what size your stock one is and how to meaursue the width of wheel.

    I have two sets of oz futura, both came with 2J front and 2.5J rear outer lip. one is modified to 9J front and 12J rear and another set is still original.  

    • Like 1
  11. 17 hours ago, Jacques said:

    Okay, so came home from another trip climbing Mountains, this time in the Caucasus, and measured the outer lips on my non-US OZ Futura's.

    Front outer lip is 2,25".

    Rear outer lip is 2,75".

    To fit tires as in the Sport300 dimensions in Width, you need to extend the rear outer lip ½", so rear outer lips will be 3,25" to suit the tires.

    On another note, som tire manufactures recommend a Wheel between 10,5" to 11,5" in Width.

    Lotus went with 10,5" for reasons I suppose (apart from being 17", not 18" and another section (height).

    So, fronts should do in 2,25" and rears in 3,25".

    Then, if you look at the, they have no 2,25 fronts in 17". So the nearest is 2,50" for the fronts. Or 1 step more narrow.

    Keep the profile low, and it shouldn'r rub the inner Arches.

    Kind regards,


    The front outer lip is 2” and the rear is 2.5” . You should measure it from the bead seat, not from the edge.

  12. 18 hours ago, Jacques said:

    Thanks Pan. I have a stable repeatable 330 Hp at 6194rpm and 415Nm at 4425rpm very conservatively measured and a nice cool chargecooler at all times.

    I think I go for the 315/30-18 on the 10,5" rear Wheels. That would be 2,75" extended to 3,25" outer lip.

    I think you're right, the other solution is too much. Reminds me of the LP5000s.

    Another thing: how is the outer aluminium lips performing with regards to not corroding? How do you keep them nice? (thinking about radinox too)?

    Kind regards,


    I am afraid of the radinox being so strong that it will damage the wheel face or hub when it takes a hit. And I don’t see any big diffference of weight between Aluminium and Radinox.

    I am 100% sure that the outer lip of rear wheel is 2.5J, not 2.75J, (I measured the stock one and the 3.25J one that I bought, there was 0.75J difference).  Extending to 3.25J for 315 is fine for S300 wheel arch.

  13. 15 minutes ago, Jacques said:

    Nice pics!

    Pretty serious to look at. How is cornering grip?

    And did you notice excessice bearing Wear?

    I suppose you long ago installed afjustable upper rear arms, if they weren't there already?

    Kind regards,


    I didn’t notice any excessive bearing wear yet as I only drove it for less than 20 miles. I do notice it has almost no oversteering when cornering..those tires are too wide for the power of S4S...and the adjustment upper rear arm is standard on S4S....

  14. 1 hour ago, Jacques said:

    Hmm, I Wonder why Lotus did these Wheel sizes, though, albeit in 16" and 17", but with higher side walls (profile).

    When they did the Sport300, I suppose they did all they could to optimise the car and give it even more sporty driving abilities in total.

    I have notoced that some tire brands recommens using Wheels between 10,5" to 11,5" for the 315/30-18 tire. The 10,5" is a bit on the slim side. We'll see.

    I don't know if the Sport300 rear Wheel Arches can cover the 11" rear Wheel (extended outer lip only)?

    Anyway, I am slowly working my way through a pile of Sport300 parts and mods, to get as close as possible. And then some.

    Your Wheels look very good. Is that wider outer lips in aluminium?

    And could you possibly post a couple of shots from the side and one from the rear (to see the Whole car from behind,)?

    Kind regards,


    I add 0.75J to the outer lip(aluminium) to fit 315 and then add another 1.25J to the inner barrel to fit 335. Pls see the pics of 315 at stock ride height and 335 at lower ride height from the rear.





  15. 3 hours ago, Jacques said:

    I wouldn't go to 245 front and 335 rear, at least not the later. The 235 and the 315 will sit on my rebuilt Futura Wheels, where the front is 8,5" and the rear is 10,5". I have no rubbing. It just runs smooth and nicely. Loads better roadholding compared to the original SE Wheels with fresh tires. Never really liked the original SE tires as they are too high in profile, and a bit wobly or less surefooted, hence the V8 AWI Monobloc's I have been using for the last 5 years.

    The 315/30-18 have the correct size compared to 245/50-16, and the 285/35-18.

    So, do you mean that the driving got worse with the 235 and 315 compared to 235 and 285? Or was that with regards to the 245 and 335 tires?

    Kind regards,


    If you add 0.5J to the outer lip of oz futura for 315, the tire will stick out of the car body without S4S/V8 wheel arches(but If you have S300 arch, you even can add 0.75J).  Without the wheel arches, it is better to add the extra 0.5J(I recommend to add 1J) to the inner barrel of the oz futura and10.5J seems too narrow for  315 of PS2.

    both 315 and 335 are worst than 285 for driving, maybe it is just for good-looking. 

    The pictures show 315 PS2 tire on 10.75J (added 0.75J outer lip) at stock height ride



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