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Everything posted by ekwan

  1. What fuel pressure is everyone running for these carburettors? Or rather what is the maximum fuel line pressure these can withstand.
  2. My bad....... It's indeed a 1982. Should not depend on my memory.
  3. Small wonders. I was looking for screw holes in the chassis to mount the bracket.
  4. Thank you all for your instant responses.
  5. I am trying to mount an SU pump onto my S3. The previous owner had replaced the original SU pump with a cheap Chinese made alternative. As a result, the mounting bracket (no. 12) is now missing. I have to fabricate a new mounting bracket, but cannot figure how it mounts onto the chassis. Would appreciate greatly if someone could snap a pic of the bracket and pump mounted onto the vehicle. TIA.
  6. If there isn't any spark, one of the first things I'd do is to disconnect the engine overspeed limiter. It works by earthing the coil.
  7. Depends on whether it's plastic or metal me thinks.
  8. The device with the spring located at the far end of the filter is often mistaken as a non-return valve, but it isn't. It is a pressure relief valve that opens should the filtering element of the filter fails to flow sufficient oil due to blockage. Oil enters the filter through a series of holes at the engine end of the oil filter. These holes are usually covered by a rubber flap that act and a "anti reverse flow" valve. Perhaps, it's this rubber flap that you are referring to that is certainly importantly to prevent draining of the filter when the engine is at a standstill. Just as important, is the presence of the spring-loaded pressure relief valve for the obvious reasons.
  9. At these levels, did you open the throttle completely before cranking?
  10. Yes. Closer to 110C or up to 120C is preferable to boil off any moisture from the combustion process. After all, Lotus recommends and specifies full synthetic oil (from S3 onward???) so 120C isn't a big issue. 3/8" BSP I believe. That's the reason for me purchasing a Setrab replacement cooler so I can go -AN sizes.
  11. You really want a Honda i-VTEC and not just a mere VTEC. There is no justice in a VTEC.
  12. Make sure your fuel lines are not routed where it could be collecting heat. Fuel vaporising in the lines would cause a vapour lock, resulting in fuel starvation. The exhaust pop before the engine cuts out is a typical symptom of fuel starvation. Obviously, also check your fuses and the state of your fuel pump too. Often, resistance build up along the electrical connections and heats up due to electrical resistance, before giving up, only to restart again when it cools down.
  13. Removed this to refurb the carbs. Off vehicle for months on end and now forgotten where the fixing points are. Anyone here can help please?
  14. It may sound crazy. But after I refurbished my carburettors, I had to upsize my idle jets from 55's to 58's. Turning the idle mixture screws out beyond a certain point made no difference to the idle, at which point idle quality was still bad. Put simply, the jets weren't flowing sufficiently for proper idle.
  15. The best are the springy types also known as constant tension clips. No more tensioning/tightening blues and they expand and contract with the pipe so the clip doesn't eventually compress the rubber hose under the clamp.
  16. The needle valve numbers refer to flow rates, the higher numbers mean higher flow rates. You can go higher, but not lower.
  17. Certainly sounds like you are running on progression & main. Does the throttle plate need to be open up in anyway for it to idle. Seems like the idle circuit for the rears are blocked and not supplying fuel through the idle mixture screw.
  18. Apparently, the later GM modules now dispense with the diode, although the condenser may still be required for suppression purposes. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
  19. I need to clean out some of the internal idle circuit passages which may be blocked due to storage (with fuel) for over 30 years. To do this, I will need to drill some of the lead plugs at the rear of the carburettor on the carburettor-manifold flange. Initially, it will be the smaller idle circuit passage, as adjustment of the idle screws make no difference to the idle characteristics of the engine, and the engine will only run with the throttle plates being opened to a certain extent. Hence, suspecting they (idle passages) may be blocked. Just wondering if anyone on TLF has ever done this before, or has a procedure for doing this. Like the drill size to use, and depth of the drilling etc., and subsequently how to re-plug the hole. TIA.
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