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Everything posted by ekwan

  1. I replaced mine with a stainless steel pipe that came out through the front after the radiator was removed. Bought a length of stainless, got a beading rolled in at both ends by a machine shop. Hopefully, stainless steel would last a lifetime.
  2. You can use OAT on older engines. Just that you have to flush out all that old Glycol based stuff before refilling or the two types will react IIRC.
  3. Coolant sensors fail in weird ways. The one on my Elise would never exceed 65 degrees 🤣
  4. Ford/Mazda switch. Same switch used on the Elise S1. Twist 90 deg and remove. Reverse procedure when refitting.
  5. I would put a gauge on it first to make sure that you "really" have adequate oil pressure before anything else.
  6. There are a few variations of flow patterns for the S3. You have to see (from the workshop manual) which is yours and trace the pipe that comes off the thermostat outlet.
  7. By feeling the pipe downstream of the thermostat while the engine is warming up. It should suddenly feel warm as the thermostat open up. 🤣 Otherwise, try running the engine without the thermostat and see if overheating still occurs. Needless to say which is the easier option.
  8. Perhaps you should look at diagnosing things logically, step by step before diving in at the deep end. First of all, any coolant or engine contamination, or if the levels are drastically raised or lowered (expansion due to heating excepted). Then, check if your coolant is really at 120C, thermometer in the coolant tank or an infra thermometer pointed at the correct places. If the above checks out, perhaps and only perhaps I'd start pushing the panic button, may just as there are other small issues like temperature sensors or even a non working cooling fan due to failed thermo switches, witing, relays or fuses.
  9. Commercially available LED bulbs have a circuitry that maintains the same level of light output irrespective of voltage fluctuations, within a specific voltage range, of course. This is the reason, the cannot be used with dimmers. Mine are just simple discrete LEDs with a resistor in series and readily lend themselves to dimming with just a simple rheostat. As a matter of fact, I have a simple 5V circuitry that replaces the fibre optic pod, and the dimmer is the original rheostat of the car.
  10. All the bulb holders were specifically machined to accept a simple LED with a small resistor wired in series. I cannot remember the resistor values I used (they are documented on my computer somewhere), the I selected the resistances for maximum brightness that I require. Adding a potentiometer, or using the original dash dimmer, would work.
  11. I did think of whipping up a PWM controller using either a NE555/556 but I have other priorities to get on with since this is a 5 year ongoing project and counting. That’s something for the future.
  12. The RHS panel with lettering for the heater flaps etc, did you ever get that refreshed? I am wondering how to recreate the print etc.
  13. Continuing to the end, I had the dash CNC machined out of Aluminium plate. Heavier than the original item, of course, but should outlast the lifetime of the car. Then I had it anodised in matt black, not a total match for the original crinkle finish. I decided to go LED lighting instead of messing about with the fibre optics pod and I choose to build a mini harness for the lighting to make it easier for removal and reassembly the next time. There was a little more achining work to be done to adapt the LEDs to fit the bottom row indicator lights as well as the speedometer and tachometer. With the smaller meters, one could purchase green LED bulbs, thus labour saving. The looms were terminated with Delphi connectors. Next...... I had a whole bunch of bolts, nuts and panel screws anodised to suit. This final result....... It all works. But note to self: Purchase all your LEDs from a single source or there will be slight variations in colour (especially from cheapo online retailers). The swaps will be easy from now on, so uniform lighting colour for the next time the dash comes out. Meanwhile, there are still other more pressing things to get on with.
  14. It's been 15+ years since you last moved the car. Expect the crankshaft oil seal and a whole lot of other seals to leak from the rubber drying out over the years. 😆
  15. Nah! 1 sq in off a tyre inner tube and some contact adhesive
  16. After a bout with Covid………trial fitting. It will go off to be anodised black tomorrow.
  17. I had previously read in passing that someone had fabricated a hand tool for boring the spigot recess of the crankshaft to accept the Citroen roller bearing. This obviously eliminated the issue of the broken circlip and a damaged crankshaft. Can anyone point me in the right direction of this article and the person with this tool.
  18. Part no. 5 which is a plastic up is the usual culprit. I believe replacement phosphor bronze ones can be bought from an online parts retailer, which in theory should last a lot longer.
  19. Can I ask for dimensions for machining the bronze sleeve, thanks
  20. You can get it here even if Lotus no longer stocks it. I do this for my Alfa Romeo.
  21. I believe M10. Taken from another forum topic
  22. I guess Supervac 28, 38 & 50 will give different degrees of force magnification. 28 less, 50 more and 38 somewhere in between. Does anyone know if the stud pattern is the same for the 28, 38 and 50?
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