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Everything posted by ekwan

  1. This topic had been covered many times before......... You set the initial timing "static" using marks on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel (but there are few exceptions, manufacturers' recommendation). Then you set the timing dynamically using a timing strobe at a higher engine speed, usually above 3000rpm (or whatever specified) with the vacuum capsule disconnected. At this point, the mechanical advance of the distributor should have advanced to its maximum. Although static or idle advance may change, this should not be of consequence and this is mainly a matter of distributor tolerance, since maximum advance at high engine speeds is more important as it could cause detonation damage if the ignition is far too advance. Obviously, if the idle advance now varies by a significant amount, it will need to be checked. For example, if static timing is 9 deg BTDC and the spec is 35 deg BTDC at 3000rpm, it effectively means that the distributor's max mechanical advance is 26 deg crank. There are other variations, but is too long a topic to go into here. No need for expensive toys but a cheap Gunson's strobe will work perfectly well. You DON'T NEED impressive digital toys. When those engines were designed and built in the 1970's, there weren't any engine electronics or digital tools either. Don't get your knockers squeezed like someone else in another forum.
  2. If your vehicle hasn't already got a sunroof aperture, could you not fit an aftermarket Webasto like one of these?
  3. Try soaking the entire housing in diesel overnight. That has never failed for me, and you are going to be rebuilding the entire charger anyway.
  4. It's a bummer with these old cars. I remember working on the 1980's BMW engines, the tappet adjusters were a off-centred cam, and the threads on the tightening bolts used to strip on a regular basis. Never got round to finding out why, but looks likely from heat cycling and metallurgy composition of the metal.
  5. Nah! I'd just hone out the hole ever so slightly and get an tight interference fit with a roll pin.
  6. Looks like a strip down & machine job. But otherwise, no big drama.
  7. Anyone here know values of crank advance vs RPM for an S3 NA. Otherwise I'd have to acquire or borrow one and make measurements.
  8. Where would this seal be located? At the bottom of the shaft next to the drive, or at the top of the shaft just under the advance weights?
  9. B*ggers should have them operated using a Bowden cable. What's wrong with Lotus engineers
  10. If you design an engine to run 4 X DCOEs or DHLAs, you aren't exactly expecting to use vacuum advance, are you?
  11. I would also add to this that the richer mixture at the warm-up phase significantly cools the in-cylinder temperatures. As such, it would be possible to run at more advance ignition timing without the danger of detonation.
  12. Vacuum is mainly for fuel economy and emissions during light acceleration. As the Esprit is considered a "sports car" (in quotes), fuel economy or emissions (way back when) isn't a prime consideration, hence the vacuum delete. Similarly, for Alfa Romeos too of that era.
  13. The distributor on an S3 NA is non-vacuumed, hence a 43D model. The ones with vacuum are 45D's.
  14. Any idea which other cars would use a distributor (Lucas 43D) similar to this, ignoring the advance characteristics as this could be separately mapped? The S3 NA is a Lucas 43D distributor with mechanical advance only.
  15. Between the 2 carburettors, from fuel filter to carb, fuel pump to fuel filter, banjos on both tanks to t-piece and from t-piece to fuel pump AFAIK. Also I replaced the inlet and outlet of the fuel pump with 8mm push on pipe unions
  16. Do you 100% trust the reading on your dash temperature gauge?
  17. All incandescent bulbs head for the trash can. The oil line goes in favour of an electric oil pressure gauge.......assuming that there is space to fit the sensor.
  18. Yucks ! Looks like 3 or 4 Delphi metri-packs will do the job with extensions
  19. Thank you Dan. Job is to replace the plastic facia with one fabricated out of aluminium sheet.
  20. I need to remove the instrument cluster to replace some bulbs, refresh some meters etc. Just want to ask in advance if there just one or two connectors to disconnect, or are do I have to remove connectors to each and every instrument on the dash?
  21. You can buy replica oil pressure gauges from Smiths. Looks the same as the original gauge, but takes an electrical sensor, instead of a pipe feeding oil pressure to the pressure gauge in the cockpit. I would go this route, having had an oil pressure pipe break behind my dash in my Ford Escort RS2000, and having scalding oil all over my feet.
  22. I have used Derby Performance Hoses for all my cars. No problems all these years. Worth paying the little extra over unknown eBay quality.
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