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About gfallon

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    brian anderson
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    1983 turbo esprit
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  1. GOT IT RIGHT! used the color tune again and was able to richen up a little more but it was # 4 the last one it looked more lean then the others so richen it and smoothed right out. I did count the number of turns out and I am at 9, the how to power tune book said any more then 7 and you can step up. so yes I can get the next step up on the jet at some point. its been raining a lot so have not gotten to drive it yet but I am sure it will be good thanks to everyone for all the help
  2. Gis i red your link on the carbtune and one thing i noticed is about the restrictors. one of my restrictors was broken (mine screw into the top of an extension, one had the screw broke off) so that may cause some of the fluctuation i see. it is weird that the engine pops at the same time. number 1 is the one with no restrictor but cyl 2 also reacts at the same time also i have the how to power tune book. i am also helping a friend restore a 1959 alfa romeo giulietta veloce. i got the book to help with his webbers
  3. I richened up the idle jets and it did get better, it still does the same thing just not as pronounced. cly 1 and 3 will fluctuate together, 1 goes down and 3 goes up, so 1 loses some vacuum and 3 adds some vacuum. I can here the engine pop out the exhaust each time it happens. i will look at the color tune tonight (easier to see when its dark) but my afr reads 12 and 13's ( it was in the 14's) i looked at the notes the previous owned made, he changed some jets, not the idle jet's. idle jet is a 52 changed the main jet from a 165 to a 170 changed the main air correction jet from a 230 to a 210
  4. you can see the ruff idle in the video I checked the color tune and they are all blue in color so should be good will look into the accelerator pump I also changed timing to 15 degrees at idel. (was 10) 20180521_200205_001.mp4 It did seem to help but not much
  5. have not done that yet. I do have one so will take a look thanks
  6. I have a few questions about getting my newly rebuilt engine tuned right. this my first go with dellorto carbs ( lots of experience on su and stromberg ) and a first carb turbo setup. so what I have is a 1983 us car but the pervious owner removed all the emissions. so no cat, no smog pump, no air rails. also the last time he rebuilt the engine he put the pistons and liners from the 88 spec car, so it has the 8:1 pistons and nikasil liners. also a port n polished head and he set the boost at 10psi. it also has an msd timing computer because all the emissions have been removed I have it set up for the euro specs. so the cam timing and ignition timing you can see in the pic I have been working on getting it right and I have it pretty close but cannot seem to get it just right I have ignition timing at 10 deg @ idle and 28 deg @ 4,000rpm ( book said 12deg @ idle ) was able to get the idle down to 1,000 rpm ( had been at 1,800 I found the linkage needed to be re adj) you can see in the pic I have the carbs kind of balanced. does it need to be at a specific number or just level? problem is I still have a hesitation at light throttle inputs and the idle is not perfectly smooth ( so while driving after you let off throttle and when you first go to throttle the rpm will drop for a half second. really only a problem when pulling from a stop) would this be a carb problem or a timing problem? also I installed an afr gauge anyone know what numbers I should be looking for? at idle, cruzing rpm and at wot? right now I have 14.2 - 14.6 at idle. I think it was 10:1 at half throttle and 5psi. have not pushed any more than that
  7. I had a fitment issue with mine also. its a different problem from the others. the turbo placement in incorrect with mine it may also be at the wrong angle. you can see I had to have a .75 inch spacer made so the "turbo" tube would bolt up to the plenum. I already had a nice ss exhaust that the previous owner put on back in the 80's but with the turbo placement being off it was very difficult to get everything to fit correctly, but I was able to get it all to fit so I am happy with it. only thing is I misplaced my nice turbo support plate so I made one that bolts up to the trans and used the link that was supplied. I would like to find out if I can get another one that way it will be supported on both sides of the turbo
  8. so I was looking through my Manuel and I was wrong about the type of cam I have. the gears have 105 on them but according to the book and the markings on the cam they are 107. which is what it should have in it. but I was wondering why the cam gears have 2 marks on them, I did not see anything about that in the Manuel. I am assuming the one marked in white is the one I should set it with. is this correct?
  9. does anyone have to spec to degree the 105 cam's to? I have adjustable cam gears and the intake gear looks to have slipped and the manufacture did not line up his marks with the factory mark so its hard to say were factory should be, kinda a shot in the dark but if I had the cam spec's I could degree them and know 100% they are correct or if there is a better setting other than factory for the cams that would be nice to know. I would assume that would be the only reason to buy adj cam gears
  10. I have both types of head gaskets, bought an engine kit with the goetze and in with all the parts that came with the car is an original type asbestos head gasket. not sure which is better but was thinking of using the goetze.
  11. I looked up the spec on arp web page for an 11mm stud (like we have here) and it said the max is 92 foot pounds yet jae has 110 foot pounds just seems to me like I will pull the threads out of the block with that amount has anyone here used the arp studs? how much did you torque them to? ( I have arp studs in my supra, 85 foot pounds, and my z24, 50 foot pounds, so I have some experience with arp)
  12. I am working on getting my 83 esprit turbo engine back together I bought the arp head studs from jae and arp said to torque them to 110 foot pounds that seems like a lot for an aluminum block I know lotus is 75 on the center and 70 on the outer studs but I also know everyone always said to go with the arp spec when using there studs so what is your thoughts?
  13. ok, so here is an up date I ordered the parts to rebuild the waste gate also I found on the very last page of the lotus service notes it tells how the over boost and over speed module cut out fuel. the over boost switch tells the r.p.m relay to cut power to the pumps and the over speed module tells the 2 fuel pump relays to cut ground it also has a roll over switch that cuts power to the pumps if you ever flip your car. so to by pass all these systems; I gave the pumps a direct ground - did not change anything jumped the rollover switch - did not change anything gave the fuel pumps a power supply straight from the battery to the fuel pumps - this fixed the problem, now we know the system at fault so I had another r.p.m relay that I know is good and switched them out - did not fix it so I jumped the to yellow wires ( fuel pump wires) from the rpm relay - did not fix anything so I am confused, the over boost switch is bypassed and the rpm relay is bypassed, yet it still cuts fuel. how is that possible anyway, I ordered the parts to rebuild the wastgate they should be here in a week or so maybe I will get lucky but something tells me there is more to it then that
  14. ok, the cut has nothing to do with the rpm ( I will check the over speed module but I do not think that will be the problem, but hey you never know) its runs perfect under 5.5 psi of boost any more and it starts to cut it out. just a slight cut from 5.5 to 6.5 and full cut at 7psi ( it is a cut, not just running out of fuel) I rebuilt the worm up regulator last year ( fixed that problem) I was wandering what actually cuts the fuel? in other words the over boost switch sends a signal to something (like the ecu or a relay) then that sends a signal to the component that actually cuts out the fuel this way I can go thru the system one component at a time till I find the problem. rather than making them spend money on something that may be working just fine I bought some books on bosch fuel inj one of them is really good, but they say nothing for boost related setups I will look at the service notes again, maybe I overlooked something
  15. it is missing. or like a rev limiter
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