free hit
counters
waofner - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

waofner

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About waofner

  • Rank
    L

More Info

  • Name
    wolfgang ofner
  • Car
    evora 400

Recent Profile Visitors

526 profile views
  1. Allzeit gute Fahrt! Gratulation zum Design LG wolfgang
  2. have replaced the ridiculously bad quality Lotus leather and replaced it with genuine Mercedes leather- nice side effect: got rid of the, for road use useless, red stripe. in the past rally- drivers applied a tape to their steering wheels for driving situations where they had no feedback from the road to indicate center- maybe helpful for gravel or approaching the road again after a jump.......
  3. i am also awaiting new seat frames; used the time to paint the rear spoiler center section matching the body colour. i am sorry to read that some of you lost their enthusiasm for the evora over the quality issues.
  4. You shold drive it- i'm sure afterwards you love the car including its look!
  5. by the way: remebering my school days- isn't the profile much more important than the material? ===> axial resistance moment and polar resistance moment
  6. in my opinion this guy is a universal Genius! maybe not perfect in every detail but ambitious and he shows no fear to boldly go where no one was before.... so please fellows, lets stop whining and help him to achieve the goal! first attempt: what about drilling holes in a pattern- calculating an equal rigidity by reducing the profile area should do the job- after all: its not a space-ship. according to WIKI: aluminium 300 to 600 N/mm² construction steel 310to 690 N/mm² depending on thickness, maybe a few holes would do the trick! Oh! its even possible he has to strengthen the steel frame.... good luck!
  7. as an ex biker: the ducati clutch rattles when opened because it is a dry running system (like all car applications i know) and not silenced by an oil-bath. the closed dry running ducati clutch is silent. - pressure to the friction plate,-no rattle; are you sure the noise is generated by the clutch?
  8. you will notice that the adapter frame between seat-rails and plastic molding is height- adjustable!
  9. 1. seat all the way forward, remove the now accessible rear mounting bolts (2x 6mm hex) 2. move the seat all the way backwards, remove the front mounting bolts (2x 6mm hex) 3. lift the seat about 10cm on sill- or front- side to disconnect 2x seat heating plugs 1x safety belt signal 4. turn the big adjuster knob to fully bring the backrest to the front 5. protect your sill with a towel, with a light rotation inwards you can easily remove the seat. Seat on the workbench! the real tricky part: side panels shown in jayemm's post 1. pull off the big adjuster knob, will need force and plastic prying tools are a big help the knob sits on an aluminium tube leading to the opposite side adjustable hinge 2. the yellow tree clips you see in jayemm's post should allow to pull/pry the side panels easily from the center part of the back-rest. !!!!! in my case the tree clips were additionally secured with not access-able metal clips inside the center part. =====> broke both side panels, they are fixable but it is annoying anyway.......... !!!!YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE SIDE PANELS IF YOUR CREEKING SOUND COMES FROM THE MAIN SEAT MOUNT!!!! TEST: BEFORE REMOVING THE SEAT: move the backrest to the front, grab the seat cushion on the rear side and try to move sideways: if it creeks- it has nothing to do with the back-rest+hinges. SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE KNOB NOR THE SIDE PANELS!!!! Main mounting bracket: 1. put the seat on its back-rest 2. remove the 2 big headed hex bolts on left and right side 3. now you can easily rotate the front-sided part of the frame from the seat (about 5 to 10 cm) this is done to identify the 2 rear-sided bolts Done! The rest is very easy to see but hard to describe... before remounting i tried to identify every possible contact area and put cotton tape on So why the hell i can still hear it creeking.... prying tools
  10. sorry to say: no simple solution in my case. disassembled my seat completely this weekend. put cotton-tape inbetween every single part.didn't remount the side-panels. it is better now but the creeking noise is still there. in my case 100% not the backrest nor the backrest hinges- it comes from the seat rail- hight adjustable frame- plastic seat moulding...
×
×
  • Create New...