jcslocum

Does the refurb include rebuilt calipers???

Interesting read on crank welding: https://www.dragracingonline.com/2018/november/crankshaft-rescue.html Laser Welding: http://www.e-m-p.biz/laser-welding/classic-cars/

OK, good to hear! You and others will be much safer....

Most SS bolts you can buy are nowhere near strong enough for the loads induced when torquing or the loads seen in operation. I will not use them in structural applications on any car. They are good for adding a little bling to your car. I did some quick lookup for you to show the difference: Stainless Steel 18-8 bolts: From this we can see that 18-8 SS (304SS) commonly used in off the shelf bolts is only about 20% the yield strength of a 12.9 bolt. Please take them out of your wheels.

No idea......

I will have to look it up.

Probably. These were bad years and lots of stuff was thrown at these engine to get compliance.

I eliminated this restriction on my engine, I just tapped the holes and screwed small pugs in. Not sure what it did/does at the time.

Lars, We had the old cast iron unit that was off when I bought the car with the engine in pieces. Knowing that turbos react well to advanced exhaust systems, I knew this would be an excellent upgrade, as well as to not have to worry about the cast unit cracking. The better flow from the headers of equal length makes the turbo more responsive and spool up faster and with more immediate effect, as has been written by others. We just bought the header and my daughter fabricated the rest of the system in 3" for max flow. The engine in my car is very responsive with to me, zero

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Don't confuse me with the facts!!!

We installed the Aulnox system on our Turbo and it's very very nicely made and will probably never wear out. The welds are beautiful and the fit was pretty good. Took some fettling to get onto the engine because we did it "engine in car". Here's an interesting video of unlocking power with better exhaust; https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/dyno-testing/baby-got-back-turbo-exhaust-size-comparison-test/ You will not regret this purchase. Jon

Fuel pressure regulator??

Here are some wiring diagram snips Motors: There's a relay and switch involved Fuse shows #3 : I hope this helps a bit.

If you have fuel dripping from the carb, your float needle is stuck open. There is a piece of trash between the needle and seat that needs to be blown out. You can try an old trick by tapping on the carb housing with a hard plastic hammer to shake the object out of the needle and into the bowl. Another trick is to crimp the inlet ho to stop fuel flow and let the engine stall, tap the carb housing and then un-crimp the line. Turn ignition on and allow the float bowls to fill. The rush of fresh fuel and the needle at the bottom of the house can flush the junk out and past the needle. Otherwise y

This looks very good so far!!