jcslocum

I did a very similar job on my 1984 too. I didn't take the engine out tho, it was partially disassembled from having a broken belt. I did so may tasks to get it ready to run, that I doubt I can recall all of them! One thing I didn't change was the vacuum pump and I should have. Mine made a squawking noise that drove me crazy. I just changed it 4 years later to a GM unit that is a direct cross over. I may still have the box if you want a part number. A lot of the emissions stuff had been taken off, so I completed that job and simplified the engine bay without all of the hoses gone that had been left behind. I had the Turbo rebuilt because I could feel play in the bearing. We replaced the exhaust manifold with the Alunox header, a beautiful piece of work! I changed the clutch fluid line to a new type from JAE. I alos upgraded the alternator to a Bosch unit that is a bolt in swap. I'll be watching and best of luck.

I have 3 of them, 1 is in my 1984 Turbo. Definitely a good piece for my USA car that has shitty timing and lots of emissions junk. I got the car with the top end of the engine apart after a timing belt failure. Almost all of the emissions stuff had been cut out over time, so once together it would run just OK. The 123 lets you plot your own advance curve and if you want to back down timing when on the boost, that is easily programmable as well. A very easy install and I love it. I have one in my 1966 Porsche and my 1972 Alfa GTV too. The bluetooth model allows you to lock out the ignition as an inti theft device. I have that on the porsche.

If the timing is retarded from Optimal, you can get the headers glowing. It could also be a lean mixture. Some materials also have a lower temp rating, so if you used a material like this than they will just glow easier. Some Stainless alloys will do this.

If it's all original paint, then the moisture is probably coming into the glass from the back side and making it's way out the the surface under the paint. Storage outside and car cover may be exacerbating the problem. If you can get it inside and dry they may go away.

The look to me like micro blisters from moisture. Are you sure this is the original paint?? I have them on my Esprit but it's from a previous repaint where moisture was trapped in the primer. They get worse with time 😞

Does the refurb include rebuilt calipers???

Interesting read on crank welding: https://www.dragracingonline.com/2018/november/crankshaft-rescue.html Laser Welding: http://www.e-m-p.biz/laser-welding/classic-cars/

OK, good to hear! You and others will be much safer....

Most SS bolts you can buy are nowhere near strong enough for the loads induced when torquing or the loads seen in operation. I will not use them in structural applications on any car. They are good for adding a little bling to your car. I did some quick lookup for you to show the difference: Stainless Steel 18-8 bolts: From this we can see that 18-8 SS (304SS) commonly used in off the shelf bolts is only about 20% the yield strength of a 12.9 bolt. Please take them out of your wheels.

No idea......

I will have to look it up.

Probably. These were bad years and lots of stuff was thrown at these engine to get compliance.

I eliminated this restriction on my engine, I just tapped the holes and screwed small pugs in. Not sure what it did/does at the time.

Lars, We had the old cast iron unit that was off when I bought the car with the engine in pieces. Knowing that turbos react well to advanced exhaust systems, I knew this would be an excellent upgrade, as well as to not have to worry about the cast unit cracking. The better flow from the headers of equal length makes the turbo more responsive and spool up faster and with more immediate effect, as has been written by others. We just bought the header and my daughter fabricated the rest of the system in 3" for max flow. The engine in my car is very responsive with to me, zero lag. I do think it has added power and less heat in the engine bay as an added benefit.

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Don't confuse me with the facts!!!