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Everything posted by Laika

  1. If you're using a folded chassis your engine will be slightly higher than mine, I am using a Spyder chassis which has an additional cross brace behind the gear lever location which fouls the T50 gearbox lever relocation mechanism. That cross brace is not present on a real chassis. I wanted to ensure that the engine and box were perfectly level in the chassis , the only way to achieve that was to clear the brace by lowering the engine slightly. The clearance engine to column is fine, the clearance could be an issue with the alternator in its original position. If you use an ECU you no longer require the distributor so you can relocate the alternator to the opposite side. I kept the distributor so I made a custom mount to lift the alternator about 40mm from the original position.
  2. I agree with sparky,79, and it will not fit in a "modern" garage, the gap is just too small to get through without needing paint every month. Once in a standard garage you cannot open the door enough to get out... Hence my GT3 lives out doors By standard garage I mean the kind of garage built on modern estates in the UK.
  3. But only via boot port, passenger... and of course the convenient port, is totally unresponsive... any ideas ?
  4. Just fitted one of these this week in the engine bay: 2mtr Plus a 50 second firestick fitted by driver seat and a 2.5 kg powder in passenger footwell.. That should cover it.. Both links for example only, so you know what i am talking about.
  5. Love child of an AC3000ME and a TVR wedge....
  6. I used four wheel ramps.... Of course, you cannot drive onto them ! You need to jack up until they can be pushed under, then load up and tighten.
  7. Hi I have all the original dampers and springs from my 1998 GT3 Work perfectly, but rusty. Springs will blast and powder coat well, dampers are rusty, but could be rebuilt ? I blasted a set of bilstein in similar condition on a DB7 and they came up well once painted. Free to a new home, but must be picked up north west London.
  8. Deep creep over 2 days then an impact screwdriver should do it.
  9. during lockdown I decided to tackle some larger jobs... I had the engine and box out late last year and when I put it all back together I had 4th popping out... so engine and gearbox out last weekend. To discover the lower rubber gasket on the lever had snagged and was causing the 4th gear to drop out.. Nice easy fix . Engine and box back in... and the other 100 bits that you need to do... Only to discover on test drive that I had developed an annoying creak from Near Side Front.... So I greased all the joints. . No So I figured the spring was scraping on the damper (new springs last year) so I greased the springs... No So I bound the spring in tiewraps... No Then I tried to make it squeak when off its wheels.. no squeak, but I tried the body mounts anyway and found the body mount bolts were not tight... so I nipped them all up a quarter turn and now I have no creaks !! I guess it is usually cold when I test drive before !
  10. It has definitely had a hard life, but the only area that gave me pause for thought was driver side sill.. once that is fixed you are facing a long period of repairs and reglassing the entire body. It looks like someone has used paint stripper and grinder and you have lost your gel coat, with a ton of repairs over repairs (your replacement nose then had another repair nsf), so new matting and gel is the best way to fix that body. Its not a total loss, just a lot of work !
  11. Laika

    E5 PRT

    A 1998 2ltr silver lotus according to Makes it a GT3, I believe
  12. that reminds me i need to get the in-cabin port working... at the moment i have to leave my laptop in boot ! freescan says 82, but i now need to do some spirited driving to see what it says in standing traffic
  13. so the thermostat replacement (including a jiggler) made no difference, the temp stayed at 80, including in standing traffic, with aircon off. so I replaced the sender still no difference maybe my GT3 is just a cool car ?
  14. While we have a couple more weeks of lockdown i decided to tackle my leaking seal today. Found that the large splitpin was cracked and the inner splitpin was twisted/bent in the middle. Removal of the old seal was relatively easy. Following advice from Southwest lotus I cleaned up the spline thoroughly , no grease, no oil. Put on the inner ring, a dab of gear oil. Put in the new seal with a smear of sealant on the outside edge... Just in case. A blob of sealant on the end of the splined shaft (apparently addresses oil leaks up the splines) and put it back together. Seal went in just fine, once you only have a mm or two left to go it goes in far too easy, you need to be very careful, I went in .2m too far, but after a test drive the seal is dry. I found that I could use shrink-wrap to hold the pins on the end of my parallel punch to get them going.. The gearbox drain was a pain as I didn't have the correct socket, but I managed to make one up using a socket set in reverse. For the refill I used an oil pump from Lidl, worked a treat. Gear change is improved with the new oil, that surprised me. Surprisingly easy job.
  15. If re-using the alcantara (I did as it matches my headlining) the secret is not to try and re-stretch it, as you will not get the marks left by 20 years of being pressed on by the door panel to line up again, so I made sure the holes on the composite sheet that it all mounts on lined up with the new foam and the alcantara before I glued it all back together.
  16. My 1998 door cards have alcantara centre panels, but the foam has vanished over time, so I just have alcantara flapping about over the panel. This afternoon I whipped off the panels, then pulled off the alcantara insert panels by straitened the split pins; the panel came out. I found the original foam had turned to dust but luckily I had some left over foam from woolies which was a perfect match. I used the alcantara as a template and spent a bit of time making sure the alcantara holes lined up with the panel holes using a drill bit to make the holes in the foam manually. Then a bit of spray glue and careful use of a screwdriver to reopen the split pins and the panels are now foamy again !
  17. finished the suspension yesterday so moved on to the thermostat. took out a fresh looking thermostat and put in a new one from SWL with new gasket too. not being able to go for a drive, all i can manage is an idle, dash gauge now reads 80 and the fans kick a bit later and it goes just below 80. i tested the old thermostat and it opens at 82... then closes fine...cant find anything wrong with it, but the gauge is now 15 degrees warmer !
  18. All finished. Lessons learnt; Two days of seafoam deepcreep application actually works ! Cut the nylon off the rear stud nuts and use them to draw out the stud, they are deeper threaded so don't strip under immense torque required to draw those out. Front upper stud, with careful use of the front double nut you can actually get both arms out without needing to withdraw the entire stud. I used a press for bushes out and in, only needed a max of 5 ton. For the arb bush I could not use the press so I used my threaded press and pull sleeve kit combined with my bearing press kit, and that worked perfectly. There are TWO spring clips, one either side on that bush! Getting the front lower arm back in is painful, but use of pressure and up and down wiggling (of the arm) gets it aligned, I found putting in the rear bolt half way helped get the front in. You need proper spring compressors to remove the front springs to get to the top plate, that spring is under loads of pretension. Putting the new spring in using the front arm and a jack worked perfectly, my new springs were an inch shorter than my old ones, I could not use that method if I was putting the originals back in. Put the ARB ends back in the Bush BEFORE you fit the springs ! Wear goggles... loads of grit, dirt and stones seem to fall on your face everytime you try and do anything.
  19. OSR was a three day epic involving heat, wd40, drilling, pressing, drawing, welding .. eventually got that bottom stud out. NSR I tried wd40 and nuts, heat and draw, to no avail. I really didn't want to spend three days drilling so I got some seafoam deepcreep. Applied it over two days and the stud drew out on first attempt, totally amazed. Need a lot of spacers to get it out, tight all the way..
  20. Urghhhhh. NSR strip yesterday, who designed the origami heat shield!!, all came apart ok in the end. Definitely a knackered bush...
  21. Started strip down the OSR suspension on Saturday... thanks to @sparky and his special tool, I was able to press in my new bushes today., ready to refit as soon as my new hub bolts and nylocs arrive... time enough to get the remains of the stud drilled out....
  22. Ahaaaa.. I missed that, will get on that after my suspension refresh !
  23. Hello In uk Spoke to Steve at SJS, their next delivery window is april 20th Christopher neil/oakmere are closed Pnm answered my call but have had a message back about placing orders... I need front disks and pads for gt3 plus some balljoints/spacers/bolts/washers for my suspension rebuild but cannot find anyone still shipping parts in uk.. Anyone you know still able to supply parts in the uk? I have a list of original lotus part numbers and descriptions and money to pay!
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