agentdr8

The only issue with having no clear coat over the sides/edge is that the films typically don't cover them, so now you're exposing bare plastic to UV, which will yellow over time. It might not be super noticeable though, since those areas are vertical and/or have the black plastic beneath them.

The headlights aren't covered with a film, but they are sprayed with a clear coat from the factory that is supposed to delay/deter UV damage to the underlying plastic lens. Of course over time, UV ends up damaging the clear coat itself. Most will have the headlights refurbished; sand down the existing clear coat, polish smooth, and then apply a new clear coat. I would recommend after applying a new clear coat, that you also then put a UV-resistant film on top (like Xpel, 3M, etc.).

6061-T6 with a hard anodization per RRR.

The most current service notes are available from https://vsic.lotuscars.com. There are copies on the various forums, but some may not be the most current. Probably won't find any step-by-step guides, but there are a few threads about those that have done it themselves. Evora Clutch Replacement DIY | The Lotus Cars Community (lotustalk.com) 2020 Evora GT clutch change | The Lotus Cars Community (lotustalk.com)

Aluminum billet. Unsure of which grade though.

I just received a pair in the US from a pre-production batch. They look very well constructed, and with all replaceable bushings. Kudos to Gregor over at RRR for the quick turn-around time. For future reference, the two bolts that hold the end bushing on should be torqued to 45 nm per RRR.

There are 3 fuses that handle the window regulators and their respective motors. C33 is a 5A, and it provides accessory voltage to both motors, which is what handles the auto drop/raise. C9 and C10 are 20A fuses, and protect the motors themselves. C9 is LHS, C10 is RHS.

Don't be put off too much by the lack of drain plug; even the OEM plastic one may not have it, as it was removed as a running change over the years.

If your aftermarket radiator has no drain plug in it, then emptying the radiator would require clam removal to get it out. Both the inlet and outlet for coolant is near the top tank, so you can't even pull one hose to let it drain that way. Your shop could get creative, and maybe disconnect the hoses from the radiator (via wheel wells) and use low pressure air to force the coolant out one side. Not sure how thorough that would be.

I'll have to dig around to find mine, but I should still have it. Black and paprika if I remember correctly.

Make sure when you fit the new pump, the high pressure feed line that routes underneath the driveshaft on the RHS has plenty of clearance. Otherwise, the shaft will contact that pipe, and wear a hole through it, causing a giant mess (1st-hand experience here).

The window regulator control module handles the window drop and raise, in conjunction with the switch integrated in the door latch. If you've determined it isn't the window sticking against the seal, then the only real fix is a replacement window regulator.

When bleeding, it helps to point the nose downhill, and also ensure the front wheels are on the ground while turning lock to lock slowly. I tried doing it on my lift with the wheels in the air, and it would not bleed correctly. If bleeding the system doesn't resolve it, the rack itself might have some worn seals internally.

If it isn't the normal tire scrubbing from the Ackermann geometry, then it's probably air in your power steering line. Could be from a leak, or a worn seal somewhere. Probably best to remove the front undertray and have a look.

The Perei HS25/MG Rover XFG000150 (clear) or XFG000140 (red) are the same fixture, but do not include the 2 holes that Lotus uses to mount to the spoiler. The 2-pin connector is also different.