agentdr8

The OE master cylinders aren't significantly cheaper than the aftermarket ones. If you're going through the expense of changing it out, might as well go Wilwood or Tilton (BOE), as both of them are rebuildable from the pedal side. So if/when it comes time to R&R them, there would be less labor involved down the road.

D132M0033F

Lubricating the slave cylinder push rod should be achievable either from above or below, but I'm fairly certain the squeaking is originating from the fork pivot, which is in the bellhousing.

The directional indicators are controlled by the ICM -- inputs from the LH column stalk are separate from the hazard button, so unless both of those are not working correctly, I'd say the issue lies with the ICM.

Haven't tried one, and not sure how it would look just stuck to the back of the binnacle, but yes, there is an OBD2 port behind the driver's knee bolster.

The service notes for most all Lotus models are available for download at https://vsic.lotuscars.com for a small fee (you can download them all via the 1 hour/£13.00 price). And yes, the 400 service notes are applicable to all S2 cars, with some caveats around the GT/GT430 parts lists.

And the VG.8 section, related to the end caps:

Wouldn't say it's common, but all vehicles will encounter starter issues at some point, since they're a normal wear item.

IIRC, the modification is the mounting bracket, to orient the starter opposite to how Toyota uses it.

Most repair shops will stock or order whole parts only, as identified by the OE parts lists. Lotus does not break down the starter motor into separate part #s for its components, so it stands to reason they would order complete starter units, even for something as minor as bad brushes.

It's possible in all 3 cases, the starter could have been saved just with some disassembly and cleaning or R&R of the brushes. Starter motors aren't super complicated devices; just a high-torque electric motor attached to a gear reduction set. The corrosion would be inside the motor housing and end cap. The brushes put off a fine dust on every start, and mixed with water/heat/air, it creates a grimy paste of sorts, which then makes them stick. Over time, the gap between the brushes and armature grows, and then you get in a situation where there's not enough contact to perform the starting. It used to be fairly commonplace to have starter and alternator repair shops that would tear down the assemblies and rebuild them, at a significantly reduced cost compared to a brand new (or reman'd) unit, but they're much harder to find these days. Luckily for us, our starter motors aren't complicated and R&Ring the brushes is pretty simple. Just remember to disconnect the battery leads prior to pulling the starter out

I'm on my 2nd starter unit, but 4th starter yoke. The brushes in the motor are a wear item, but typically last many years. One of the main reasons they tend to go bad sooner than later, is because of the chimney vent pipe that sits above the starter, and if you still have the OE cardboard tube covered in tin foil, it tends to crack and drip water directly on or around the starter, accelerating corrosion. Instead of replacing the starter as a whole, I would just pick up some extra yokes (also known as starter motor brush holders) from eBay, which are relatively cheap (~$10-$20USD last I checked).

Sugru works well too, and is easy to remove if ever the need arises.

The BOE CAI, specifically on the NA, has shown noticeable gains in HP based on dyno graphs that have been posted over the years. I like mine more for the increased intake sound and the additional room in the engine bay with the stock air box removed.

It pulls upward, and slightly rearward, with a solid yank. Knobs don't even need to be removed. Most likely, one or more of the metal spring clips (#11) will come off and/or fall into the center tunnel abyss. A magnetic retrieval tool helps to find them.