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agentdr8

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agentdr8 last won the day on September 8 2018

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About agentdr8

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday 01/01/1977

More Info

  • Name
    Dave
  • Car
    2011 Evora 2+2
  • Modifications
    Difflow, Larini, BOE CAI, Kenwood DMX905S
  • Location
    NorCal, CA

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  1. The B2 pre-cat sensor can be easily changed from the top, as long as you have an O2 sensor socket handy. It helps to stand/crouch in the boot and sort of lay across the motor.
  2. Hey ID, I have the region 2 DVD (PAL) from Duke. Hit me up on LT for some info.
  3. Just the diagram in the service notes as far as I know. The wiring diagrams are pretty helpful too.
  4. Ok I just went out and did the procedure. Here's the simplified version: First things first, the key in the ignition switch has 3.5 positions, and it makes sense to go over which one is which (as referred to below). - 1) Ignition OFF (key in the most anti-clockwise position) - 2) Accessories (key in, and turned one "click" clockwise) - 3) Ignition ON (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise) - 3.5) Start (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise, and then another half turn clockwise to start the vehicle) With that said, the only positions we're interested in are 1) Off and 3) On. - With immobilizer enabled (red oval in the middle of speedo will be blinking) and alarm disarmed, insert key and turn On. Then within 10 seconds, turn key Off. - The immobilizer LED will now be blinking faster, and you'll want to count these blinks. Each blink is equal to one digit, so if you see 5 blinks, you're at number 5. 10 blinks is a zero. See example below. - As soon as the first number of your PIN is counted in blinks, quickly turn the key to the On position, then back Off. - The LED will continue its fast blinking, and you'll count out the blinks to the 2nd number of your PIN. Once at the 2nd number, quickly turn key to On, then back Off. - Repeat the above step to completely enter your PIN. If successful, your alarm might chirp, and the immobilizer should be disabled. - If programming fobs, continue to enter in 2 additional digits after your PIN using the above process. Those 2 digits should be 1, 1. Upon entering the final "1", leave the ignition in the On position. - Within 8 seconds, press any button on the new fob to be programmed. The immobilizer LED should pulse and you may get an alarm chirp. - If programming more remotes, press any button on them within 10 seconds, and repeat. - When finished, either turn ignition to Off, or wait 10 seconds with no additional button presses. I drew up a quick ASCII art example of entering the number 5:
  5. The process isn't really that difficult. It's all about timing though; counting light flashes to indicate which number is being represented and all that. When I last programmed a fob, it took me about 25 minutes from beginning to end, and that was including starting over a few times. It actually behooves one to be proficient enough at the entry of the security PIN in case your fob dies while you're out and about. It's the only way to disarm the immobilizer so you can start the car. I could paraphrase the procedure and try to make it easier to understand. Give me a bit.
  6. Ah, you mean a replacement fob? That requires the security system PIN, which Lotus should keep on file based on the VIN. Any dealership should be able to provide that data once they've verified ownership.
  7. You can order the blanks from Deroure/B&C, either pre-cut if you supply your key code or un-cut that you can take somewhere to be cut.
  8. I wouldn't think the fuel level sending unit wiring would need to be upgraded. If your goal is to only provide more current to the fuel pump, I'd focus just on its connections.
  9. If the S1s use the same connectors as the 400s, they have an 8-pin connector at the fuel module end. Either Excel or Yazaki. I couldn't find the Excel part #, but the Yazaki shows it's rated for 20A: https://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/servlet/SubServlet_e?forward=7283-5574-10&plist=list&select=XX The fuel pump connector is a 6-pin Tyco/AMP, which can handle between 14awg and 22awg wiring, so it could handle 20A as well if you rewired it: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-184060-1.html https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard114-8004GpdfEnglishENG_SS_114-8004_G.pdf184060-1 The inertia switch connector is a 3-pin Tyco/AMP Econoseal, which can handle wire sizes from .2mm to 2.0mm, so it's 20A capable as well: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-344273-1.html https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Catalog+Section1654365_Econoseal0911pdfEnglishENG_CS_1654365_Econoseal_0911.pdf1-344273-1 You should be able to build a relay harness using stock connectors and upgraded wiring.
  10. The wiring diagrams show 1mm (~18 awg) wiring for most of the fuel pump and inertia switch circuits, except when it goes to the alarm module. 18awg wiring has a typical max current rating of 9.5A, so if you're actually drawing much higher, you'd want to switch to 14awg or larger and use the existing wiring just to trigger a relay like you've indicated. Did you replace R19 with a 20A fuse? If so, that would make sense why the connector wiring burned out instead of popping the stock 10A fuse.
  11. That seems reasonable to tidy up the mesh grills, but I could only imagine how long it would take to actually brush the plastic ducts behind the grills. My rear ducts definitely are faded and could use some renewing, but I haven't bothered to see if they can be pulled out from the wheel wells yet. May tackle that this fall when it isn't so hot in the garage.
  12. Glad to hear you got it sorted. Crap design aside, if you ever have to replace it again, I would highly recommend one of the aftermarket solutions.
  13. The side ducts are bolted to the underside of the rear clam. There isn't a lot of room up under there, so I'm not sure if you can remove them without taking the clam off. I've seen some posts on LT where people have used very small brushes with long handles through the grills. But I can only imagine how tedious that would be.
  14. IIRC, there's a spring inside that pulls it back down. Maybe it's broken. I don't believe there's a separate part # for it, so you'd likely have to replace the whole sprayer assembly.
  15. The release fork is controlled by the release (slave) cylinder. So if it's not moving much when you press the clutch pedal, then something is weird with the hydraulics. If it's moving an appropriate amount but the clutch isn't disengaging, then it could be a bad clutch cover/pressure plate or clutch disc.
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