agentdr8

Make sure the doors are closed and the key is in the II position, then try the button.

You could wire a switch into the inertia switch circuit. It wouldn't alter the alarm/immobilizer functionality, and doesn't require any high current carrying capacity.

Here's what the service notes have to say:

The engine protection valve (exhaust valve) will open regardless of Sport button setting when over 4700 RPMs. When Sport mode is enabled, the valve should remain open at all RPM ranges.

Posted a how-to on LT, with part #s, etc: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/serpentine-belt-change-na.434313/ Also one for the idlers too: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/replacing-idler-pulleys-n-a.438273/

Cebi Motors (previously Nuovo SME) makes these regulators for a number of vehicles, and the pin outs aren't always the same. I found that the Seat Ibiza MK2/3s also use a regulator that physically matches the ones in the Evoras, including the connector shape and number of pins, but the wiring didn't match up 1:1. See this post for more info: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/window-regulator.430786/post-5977462

IIRC, the siren unit does have its own backup battery, and maybe can't hold a proper charge. If waiving your arms while seated within the vehicle didn't set it off, then maybe your proximity sensor is bad/unplugged, but isn't getting properly reported.

Thanks for posting the follow-up with pictures. They'll definitely come in handy for anyone else having to tear down that part of the A/C. Also, there was a TSB released about those drain hose caps. Early Evoras had those rubber one-way valves installed, which were supposed to seep water out of the opening in the pinched end, but ultimately caused a blockage and were later removed. Next time you're under there, I would just remove them entirely. SB-10043684-2855.pdf

Yeah, the glass has to come out first if you want to remove the regulator. After that though, it's only 3 bolts.

I had posted that on LT (and possibly here too) after my first regulator started having issues after a severe downpour. A few dry days later, everything was back to working. Having removed the regulator to see if I could cross-reference it with another one (no such luck, btw), I noticed how poorly sealed they become over time. I would recommend coating any joints, screws, and gaps with a silicone sealant and let it dry before reinstalling.

The metal parts that touch the exterior door handle are the 2 nuts that hold it to the door, and the rod that connects to the latch mechanism. I don't believe the handle has a spring itself, and relies on the spring in the latch to return the handle to the neutral position. If I had to wager a guess, it would be the rod itself is maybe a bit rusty on the end, being mild steel.

C37 10A in the front fuse block

Maybe it's certain colors they don't have record of, but Karen was able to find the original formula for the Paprika dye. It was an exact match for my seats:

If you're handy with a wrench, you can remove all the rear seat and trim yourself, which takes maybe 15-30 minutes the first time. Then the sub enclosure is held in with a few bolts. Definitely agree with you @NC25T-- MDF or fiberglass (or MDF+fiberglass) for custom enclosures, never plywood. I can't remember the dimensions of the OE enclosure, but I'd be surprised if it's more than .5 cu/ft. It's plastic, so some sound deadening would help with resonance, poly fill probably wouldn't be too noticeable either way though given how little volume is inside.

No, I doubt Lotus has a means for this to be always enabled in the ECU. My thought is by using an Arduino or other microcontroller to mimic the actions that a physical button press perform.