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agentdr8

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agentdr8 last won the day on September 8 2018

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About agentdr8

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday 01/01/1977

More Info

  • Name
    Dave
  • Car
    2011 Evora 2+2
  • Modifications
    Difflow, Larini, BOE CAI, Kenwood DMX905S
  • Location
    NorCal, CA

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  1. It should. The double-press locks doors, enables the immobilizer, but disables the microwave sensor.
  2. It won't solve the quiescent drain issues completely, but it'll reduce it somewhat. The microwave sensor apparently draws quite a bit of juice, so by leaving the alarm disarmed (or by pressing the fob lock button twice), you at least negate that. But the ECU and other components seem to constantly draw power, so having it on a tender after about a week is probably always going to be a constant.
  3. No way to adjust the gearstick length/height. And the new knob should have a setscrew in it as well, which is what keeps it on the shaft. The lift tube position isn't much different from stock, and there isn't any noticeable threads or gap that I can see.
  4. Yes, you can remove just the HVAC panel (in green) and disconnect the few connectors on the underside. That should give you more than enough room to get to the boot zip tie (part 24).
  5. It's been a while since I swapped mine, but if I remember correctly, you compress those blue tabs at the top inward and the lift tube slides upward. You'll also need to remove the ziptie that's keeping the leather boot attached on the underside. In order to do that, you'll want to pull the entire HVAC panel/trim upward. It's held on with half a dozen clips, some of which might come off and fall down into the tunnel.
  6. I think you can mount a front cam without having to remove the clam. Depends on how you want to route the wiring to the headunit (assuming you're using a headunit with multi-cam connectivity). I know I've seen a picture of a front cam mounted at the top of the front grill, but I can't seem to locate that thread.
  7. I've not heard of anyone adding front parking sensors to an Evora. Front camera, yes. As far as I know, there are no speed-based 12V supplies. Most worry about parking initially, until they do it a few times, and then gauge how far to park away from curbs or walls. It becomes rather second nature to park a bit further back in a stall, so I'm not sure how necessary sensors (or even a camera) would be.
  8. It's probably a worn-out detent in the seat rail. Mine does this too, but I haven't had a look at it yet. Some others have reported this on LT, and surmised it could be from the constant back and forth moving of the seat during egress/ingress.
  9. I believe there's someone on the LT forum with the same issue. He had the issue traced to some sort of ABS-related fault, but not one that can be cleared by an OBD2 reader/scanner. Likely something that needs a TechCentre.
  10. The B2 pre-cat sensor can be easily changed from the top, as long as you have an O2 sensor socket handy. It helps to stand/crouch in the boot and sort of lay across the motor.
  11. Hey ID, I have the region 2 DVD (PAL) from Duke. Hit me up on LT for some info.
  12. Just the diagram in the service notes as far as I know. The wiring diagrams are pretty helpful too.
  13. Ok I just went out and did the procedure. Here's the simplified version: First things first, the key in the ignition switch has 3.5 positions, and it makes sense to go over which one is which (as referred to below). - 1) Ignition OFF (key in the most anti-clockwise position) - 2) Accessories (key in, and turned one "click" clockwise) - 3) Ignition ON (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise) - 3.5) Start (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise, and then another half turn clockwise to start the vehicle) With that said, the only positions we're interested in are 1) Off
  14. The process isn't really that difficult. It's all about timing though; counting light flashes to indicate which number is being represented and all that. When I last programmed a fob, it took me about 25 minutes from beginning to end, and that was including starting over a few times. It actually behooves one to be proficient enough at the entry of the security PIN in case your fob dies while you're out and about. It's the only way to disarm the immobilizer so you can start the car. I could paraphrase the procedure and try to make it easier to understand. Give me a bit.
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