agentdr8

The metal parts that touch the exterior door handle are the 2 nuts that hold it to the door, and the rod that connects to the latch mechanism. I don't believe the handle has a spring itself, and relies on the spring in the latch to return the handle to the neutral position. If I had to wager a guess, it would be the rod itself is maybe a bit rusty on the end, being mild steel.

C37 10A in the front fuse block

Maybe it's certain colors they don't have record of, but Karen was able to find the original formula for the Paprika dye. It was an exact match for my seats:

If you're handy with a wrench, you can remove all the rear seat and trim yourself, which takes maybe 15-30 minutes the first time. Then the sub enclosure is held in with a few bolts. Definitely agree with you @NC25T-- MDF or fiberglass (or MDF+fiberglass) for custom enclosures, never plywood. I can't remember the dimensions of the OE enclosure, but I'd be surprised if it's more than .5 cu/ft. It's plastic, so some sound deadening would help with resonance, poly fill probably wouldn't be too noticeable either way though given how little volume is inside.

No, I doubt Lotus has a means for this to be always enabled in the ECU. My thought is by using an Arduino or other microcontroller to mimic the actions that a physical button press perform.

No, it's controlled by the ECU. The default setting at power cycle is to have it disabled. There are a few ways I can think of to mimic the button press in an automated fashion though.

The option is configurable in the ECU by way of TechCentre, and I'm sure if it's disabled (or unavailable, depending on MY), you won't get the higher redline and throttle mapping.

There's not a lot of room for a custom enclosure in the stock location, but it's definitely doable. Maybe fiberglass?

The sub comes in an enclosure, but it's ported towards the rear quarter panel, and actually is vented to a free-air void in the sill/rear clam. One thing you can do to improve the sound and bass response is to pull the enclosure out and seal the port. Still won't sound super awesome, since it is a relatively small driver (8") and the OE Alpine one is rather cheap, but it's better than nothing. I'd say if you're taking the time to seal the enclosure, it might make sense to replace the driver with something else while you're at it (I went with a shallow mount Pioneer TS-SW series), and replace the Alpine amp with something better (e.g. JL XD500/3), since it's also behind the side panel.

My driver's side window does this too. I've taken the glass out a number of times, and even replaced the regulator (for an unrelated issue), but it still rattles when open. I'm thinking it might be the vertical rails that guide the edges of the glass up and down, but last time I tried to order these, Deroure said they were a factory ordered part that had no expected delivery date. I've verified the adjuster blocks are tight, so I'm also at a loss at what it could be.

I've been emailing with Karen, and she said they have the paprika color as well.

There's been a few posts on LT about cracks in wishbones, which then allows the joint to move around. I think the failures always seem to be right at/near that cast line.

The MG part is rather inexpensive as a whole, but they can be repaired if you carefully remove the lens (it's adhered to the body). The LEDs are 3V, 7.6 x 7.6 mm P4 through-hole. I scrapped the OE LEDs and put a red COB strip on instead, using the PCB as a heatsink of sorts.

Please do update. My LH paprika bolster is in serious need of some touch up.

The latch is probably binding somewhere and not allowing for a complete unlock. Try manually manipulating the door lock pin up and down while trying the interior door handle. If it still won't open, there are very few options left to get the door open when the latch won't budge. I have a write-up on LT about one such method.