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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. It pulls upward, and slightly rearward, with a solid yank. Knobs don't even need to be removed. Most likely, one or more of the metal spring clips (#11) will come off and/or fall into the center tunnel abyss. A magnetic retrieval tool helps to find them.
  2. The Evoras only have front speakers. The "rear" is the subwoofer only, and it's driven by the amp via low level RCA. Fronts: Sub:
  3. The wiring colors should be listed in the service notes wiring diagrams, on sheets G1-G7, next to each connection. Whatever colors the Alpine manual has will likely not apply, as that's for their generic harness that tends to follow the standard color codes. From G2, which is for the Euro/ROW INE-W920R, it lists these colors at these pins on the headunit-side: Pin 1: Purple - 12V Batt Constant Pin 16: Pink/Green - 12V Key in Pin 6: Black/White - Handbrake Pin 14: Red/Black - Sidelights Pin 15: Pink/Black - Reverse input Pin 9: Black - Ground Pin 7: Blue/White - Amp turn-on Pin 11: White \ Pin 10: White/Black / LH speakers Pin 13: Slate (grey) \ Pin 12: Slate/Black / RH speakers
  4. @Jayone24 I took these the other day and forgot to post them.
  5. Mine squeaks too. Pretty sure it's the clutch release fork pivot, which isn't easily accessible from outside. AFAIK, there isn't an access hole or cover that you can use to get into the flywheel housing area to lube the pivot/fork, so it'll have to get resolved during clutch change time.
  6. Nope, direct wire. The current draw for that short a length is minimal.
  7. I haven't found any COB strips that have a white silica layer and red LEDs, but there are RGB strips that do have a white silica layer and then multiple LEDs in various colors underneath. They're typically pricier, and the illumination isn't as continuous (you tend to see small circles of light) when showing a single color. I've attached the 3D model of the shroud. brake_led_diff.stl
  8. You have to open up the CHMSL housing, which is not the easiest to do. Start by removing the foam gasket around the lens. The lens is adhered from the front, so use heat to soften it up and a thin blade to cut the bond. With the lens removed, take the reflector out, and then the PCB is held on with 2 or 3 screws. The wiring is attached to the back of the PCB, and is extremely short, so you may have to cut it to remove the board, and run new wires out the back. Once the board is out, I just unsoldered all the LEDs and put an applicable length of adhesive-backed 12V COB LED strip and wired it up. Ditched the reflector and 3D printed a shroud to hide the visible PCB areas and then reassembled. I may end up redoing mine, as I'm not 100% satisfied with the visible red COB when the brake isn't pressed. I think printing a white insert to cover it would look better, and closer to how the Afterburners look. I put some pics up on a thread on LT here:
  9. The adjuster blocks and screws are accessible once you remove the door panel and the door speaker enclosure.
  10. The Inteva latches (MY12+) are supposed to be better, but they probably could use lubrication as well. You can try spraying lube in through the pawl area of the latch before tearing down the door panel.
  11. Lotus never admitted there was an issue w/ the clutch mc, aside from the revision between MY11-12, when they switched from an all-metal one to an all-plastic one. Either way, they're not very reliable parts, and overheating the fluid can't help in any situation. I would highly recommend changing out whichever OE mc is there with either a Wilwood or Tilton, as they're much more reliable, and can be rebuilt from the pedal side.
  12. Make sure the doors are closed and the key is in the II position, then try the button.
  13. You could wire a switch into the inertia switch circuit. It wouldn't alter the alarm/immobilizer functionality, and doesn't require any high current carrying capacity.
  14. Here's what the service notes have to say:
  15. The engine protection valve (exhaust valve) will open regardless of Sport button setting when over 4700 RPMs. When Sport mode is enabled, the valve should remain open at all RPM ranges.
  16. Posted a how-to on LT, with part #s, etc: Also one for the idlers too:
  17. Cebi Motors (previously Nuovo SME) makes these regulators for a number of vehicles, and the pin outs aren't always the same. I found that the Seat Ibiza MK2/3s also use a regulator that physically matches the ones in the Evoras, including the connector shape and number of pins, but the wiring didn't match up 1:1. See this post for more info:
  18. IIRC, the siren unit does have its own backup battery, and maybe can't hold a proper charge. If waiving your arms while seated within the vehicle didn't set it off, then maybe your proximity sensor is bad/unplugged, but isn't getting properly reported.
  19. Thanks for posting the follow-up with pictures. They'll definitely come in handy for anyone else having to tear down that part of the A/C. Also, there was a TSB released about those drain hose caps. Early Evoras had those rubber one-way valves installed, which were supposed to seep water out of the opening in the pinched end, but ultimately caused a blockage and were later removed. Next time you're under there, I would just remove them entirely. SB-10043684-2855.pdf
  20. Yeah, the glass has to come out first if you want to remove the regulator. After that though, it's only 3 bolts.
  21. I had posted that on LT (and possibly here too) after my first regulator started having issues after a severe downpour. A few dry days later, everything was back to working. Having removed the regulator to see if I could cross-reference it with another one (no such luck, btw), I noticed how poorly sealed they become over time. I would recommend coating any joints, screws, and gaps with a silicone sealant and let it dry before reinstalling.
  22. The metal parts that touch the exterior door handle are the 2 nuts that hold it to the door, and the rod that connects to the latch mechanism. I don't believe the handle has a spring itself, and relies on the spring in the latch to return the handle to the neutral position. If I had to wager a guess, it would be the rod itself is maybe a bit rusty on the end, being mild steel.
  23. Maybe it's certain colors they don't have record of, but Karen was able to find the original formula for the Paprika dye. It was an exact match for my seats:
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