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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. At least here in the states, there are add-on modules like these that can provide that functionality on top of the stock alarm. I don't know of any that have fitted one to the Evora specifically, but I would imagine it not being that difficult. Since it requires another channel from your remote to control the down function, you'd have to repurpose one of the buttons, like the trunk button.
  2. As far as I know, this is pretty common across all S1 Evoras, and isn't considered an issue. The rubbing seems to mostly happen on full suspension extension, and is minimal enough that I think it would take a very long time for it to rub its way through the arm. It could have been avoided entirely had Lotus just made the cables 1cm longer, but maybe they got in the way of something else? 🤷‍♂️
  3. Check out this thread: But yes, it can be done with just a trolley jack and some flat-top jack stands. I wouldn't recommend using axle stands.
  4. The cruise connector comes out the same way as the airbag connector; using a small flat blade screwdriver, press the release tab downward (towards the wires) and the connector should be able to come out. It might be somewhat lodged in the socket, so using another small flat blade screwdriver, you can try and leverage the plug out of the socket from the sides. Not a lot of room to get in there though. The other option is to remove those allen bolts holding the wheel to the center mount plate, which will allow you to get a screwdriver between the wheel and mount to get more leverage on tha
  5. @cdco is correct. The triangular cap has to be pried from the sprayer head, and then the 2 bolts underneath removed. I had removed one a few years ago. This is what the sprayer head looks like without the cap. The 2 nubs on either side are what holds the cap on.
  6. The back reservoir is the cooling system header tank. I believe the level when cold should be about 10mm below the seam, and no more than 25mm below the seam. Any more than that and there's the potential for coolant to be expelled when the system is hot, as there's no room left to expand. The front reservoir is for your charge cooler, and its max level is indicated by the line on the RHS.
  7. It was a few months ago, so it's quite possible that available stock has depleted, and is currently backlogged with the factory.
  8. I was able to order a LHS latch from Deroure/B&C and it showed up in about 2 weeks.
  9. The HVAC controls are on a separate board, but it's screwed to the top finishing surround, so they should come out together. Once released, you can unclip the electrical connections from the backside.
  10. Just a bunch of clips. I start near the handbrake end and pull upwards. You'll likely drop a few clips into the center tunnel, so have a magnetic retrieval tool handy.
  11. You would be correct. The exhaust valve is controlled by another solenoid (VSV) mounted to the rear subframe, and it needs a vacuum source. I would connect the red and black hoses together. As it stands, you currently have a vacuum leak.
  12. It should be one of those actions/sensors causing it to trip. The easiest to eliminate from the equation is the cabin microwave sensor. Next time you arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice to disable the microwave sensor. If the alarm then activates afterwards, at least you'll know that isn't it.
  13. There's a small plastic clip on the underside of the door pull mechanism. It rotates anti-clockwise (on LHS, or CW on RHS) if looking from the top of the card down. Rotate the clip, pull the end of the cable out of the mechanism, and then unscrew the retaining nut closest to the mechanism holding the cable onto the latch pull assembly and back the cable out of the mounting hole.
  14. Short of rewiring the alarm module, there isn't a way to disable the immobilizer. The immobilizer itself is just a fuel and ignition cut-off, so it really shouldn't draw any real power. The microwave sensor, however, does draw a bit of juice when the alarm is set. But the alarm being set and the vehicle being immobilized are two separate states (although it can also be the same state too).
  15. Yep, and mine is no different. But per the handbook and service notes, Lotus seems to think that a fresh, fully charged battery, in ideal conditions, with planets and moons in alignment, should last up to 3 weeks unattended:
  16. With a battery in good condition and fully charged, it should last at least 2-3 weeks, locked with the microwave sensor enabled. It might help extend that time to lock but disable the microwave sensor (hit lock button twice).
  17. It will lift the rear and the front of the side you're jacking from.
  18. Based on the bracket, it looks like a condenser (A132E6376S). #33. There should be one per bank. Here's a picture of mine on bank 2. Looks like the bolt probably came loose and that's why yours is flapping around. From what I found, they're noise filtering capacitors (250V, 2.2 uF) to help reduce ignition noise and/or alternator whine that is sometimes picked up by the radio/headunit. Also mentioned in the wiring diagrams as front and rear noise filters:
  19. Mine also has been running for a while with P0172/P0175 codes. Also replaced all the same things you did, in addition to the pre-cat O2 sensors. Idle is fine, and I don't really notice a huge hit to fuel economy, so I haven't spent too much effort resolving it. I did take it in to my indie shop and had them update the ECU with the latest code, which resolved it temporarily, but it's come back after a few weeks. They did indicate that if the update didn't fix it, it's likely fuel pressure related (which was a bit out of spec). I went ahead and ordered both a replacement fuel rail (comes with th
  20. It should. The double-press locks doors, enables the immobilizer, but disables the microwave sensor.
  21. It won't solve the quiescent drain issues completely, but it'll reduce it somewhat. The microwave sensor apparently draws quite a bit of juice, so by leaving the alarm disarmed (or by pressing the fob lock button twice), you at least negate that. But the ECU and other components seem to constantly draw power, so having it on a tender after about a week is probably always going to be a constant.
  22. No way to adjust the gearstick length/height. And the new knob should have a setscrew in it as well, which is what keeps it on the shaft. The lift tube position isn't much different from stock, and there isn't any noticeable threads or gap that I can see.
  23. Yes, you can remove just the HVAC panel (in green) and disconnect the few connectors on the underside. That should give you more than enough room to get to the boot zip tie (part 24).
  24. It's been a while since I swapped mine, but if I remember correctly, you compress those blue tabs at the top inward and the lift tube slides upward. You'll also need to remove the ziptie that's keeping the leather boot attached on the underside. In order to do that, you'll want to pull the entire HVAC panel/trim upward. It's held on with half a dozen clips, some of which might come off and fall down into the tunnel.
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