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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Chances are the latch is malfunctioning, much like mine did a while back. Lotus did not foresee ever needing to take the door card off while the door is closed, and as such, it's near-impossible to get to the latch if the door won't open (unless you want to cut a hole in the door card itself). There is a way to get the door open though, and it requires removing the latch catch loop (called the door striker) that's mounted to the door frame. I wrote up a how-to when I ran into this issue. You'll want to have a new latch handy, but last I heard, the S1 latches still aren't available from Lotus, and there's no way to adapt the newer Inteva latches on the older S1 doors.
  2. This only affects Series 1 Evoras, as Lotus redesigned the shifter for Series 2, and it isn't directly adaptable to the earlier models. Lotus' solution to the shaft shortage is to have you order the entire shifter assembly. Unfortunately that means you're stuck with another OE shaft with a plastic blue ball at the end, which will most likely fail over time. There are aftermarket shifter assemblies available from the likes of Inokinetic that are better designed. I'm also personally working on a solution that would allow you to retain the OEM shifter assembly, but not have to deal with the blue ball syndrome.
  3. Yes, rain water can find its way pretty much everywhere. And that particular spot doesn't have any direct drainage, so it will puddle until it evaporates, or rolls off during motion.
  4. Best way to test is dab a tissue on it and give it a smell. Coolant has a very distinct sweetness to it.
  5. I'd like to believe that the heat from the engine bay while out and about driving around should be enough to evaporate most moisture that makes its way into the starter, but maybe that isn't always the case.
  6. Yeah, that's the theory. Internal corrosion on the armature/commutator and brushes will eventually cause it to seize and fail to start. Not sure how one would go about preventing that. Maybe a cover of some sort?
  7. Well, I'd imagine a certain amount of heat from the engine bay should evaporate the majority of water that gets in/around the starter. But it can't get it all, so over time it just collects in there and rusts stuff out.
  8. I thought about it more, and even if the vent pipe isn't cracked, it is susceptible to water from that LHS top vent, and water/moisture can collect along the outside of the pipe too, which will naturally run down the bottom/side of the tube and then drip off near the bend.
  9. There are some great tear-down pictures showing the brushes/yoke on LT
  10. There's a theory on our side of the pond that the starter brushes are actually what goes bad within the starter motors, as the chimney vent pipe sits directly above it, and frequently cracks/tears right at the bend, which allows water to drip onto/into the starter motor. The brush yoke can be replaced, and the armature resurfaced, which will typically bring the motor back to life. Brush yokes are relatively inexpensive (~$20USD on ebay), so it's worth a try. I'm on my 3rd set of brushes in ~52K miles.
  11. I believe for the drier/receiver, any will work as long as the fittings are 5/8"-18 UNF with a thread pitch of 1.6mm on the inlet and outlet. Bergstrom 1000188414 / T0.52.2010B is also known to work. As long as it fits the clamp and is of similar length, it should be fine. Have not ever seen an alternative mentioned for the expansion valve.
  12. I'm a grease monkey too, and find it quite relaxing, assuming all things are going right. Having space, proper tools, and a lift make it much more enjoyable and efficient than it was previously for me.
  13. No need to remove the sail panel to pull the dipstick. It's flexible, so just pull upward and then flex it rearward towards the boot. Also, if you're having trouble reading the level, you can create a hash pattern on the dipstick itself by using a metal file and a vise (or mallet). You may end up sacrificing the file though, as they're quite brittle.
  14. The OE master cylinders aren't significantly cheaper than the aftermarket ones. If you're going through the expense of changing it out, might as well go Wilwood or Tilton (BOE), as both of them are rebuildable from the pedal side. So if/when it comes time to R&R them, there would be less labor involved down the road.
  15. Lubricating the slave cylinder push rod should be achievable either from above or below, but I'm fairly certain the squeaking is originating from the fork pivot, which is in the bellhousing.
  16. The directional indicators are controlled by the ICM -- inputs from the LH column stalk are separate from the hazard button, so unless both of those are not working correctly, I'd say the issue lies with the ICM.
  17. Haven't tried one, and not sure how it would look just stuck to the back of the binnacle, but yes, there is an OBD2 port behind the driver's knee bolster.
  18. The service notes for most all Lotus models are available for download at https://vsic.lotuscars.com for a small fee (you can download them all via the 1 hour/£13.00 price). And yes, the 400 service notes are applicable to all S2 cars, with some caveats around the GT/GT430 parts lists.
  19. Wouldn't say it's common, but all vehicles will encounter starter issues at some point, since they're a normal wear item.
  20. IIRC, the modification is the mounting bracket, to orient the starter opposite to how Toyota uses it.
  21. Most repair shops will stock or order whole parts only, as identified by the OE parts lists. Lotus does not break down the starter motor into separate part #s for its components, so it stands to reason they would order complete starter units, even for something as minor as bad brushes.
  22. It's possible in all 3 cases, the starter could have been saved just with some disassembly and cleaning or R&R of the brushes. Starter motors aren't super complicated devices; just a high-torque electric motor attached to a gear reduction set. The corrosion would be inside the motor housing and end cap. The brushes put off a fine dust on every start, and mixed with water/heat/air, it creates a grimy paste of sorts, which then makes them stick. Over time, the gap between the brushes and armature grows, and then you get in a situation where there's not enough contact to perform the starting. It used to be fairly commonplace to have starter and alternator repair shops that would tear down the assemblies and rebuild them, at a significantly reduced cost compared to a brand new (or reman'd) unit, but they're much harder to find these days. Luckily for us, our starter motors aren't complicated and R&Ring the brushes is pretty simple. Just remember to disconnect the battery leads prior to pulling the starter out
  23. I'm on my 2nd starter unit, but 4th starter yoke. The brushes in the motor are a wear item, but typically last many years. One of the main reasons they tend to go bad sooner than later, is because of the chimney vent pipe that sits above the starter, and if you still have the OE cardboard tube covered in tin foil, it tends to crack and drip water directly on or around the starter, accelerating corrosion. Instead of replacing the starter as a whole, I would just pick up some extra yokes (also known as starter motor brush holders) from eBay, which are relatively cheap (~$10-$20USD last I checked).
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