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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Make sure the doors are closed and the key is in the II position, then try the button.
  2. You could wire a switch into the inertia switch circuit. It wouldn't alter the alarm/immobilizer functionality, and doesn't require any high current carrying capacity.
  3. Here's what the service notes have to say:
  4. The engine protection valve (exhaust valve) will open regardless of Sport button setting when over 4700 RPMs. When Sport mode is enabled, the valve should remain open at all RPM ranges.
  5. Posted a how-to on LT, with part #s, etc: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/serpentine-belt-change-na.434313/ Also one for the idlers too: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/replacing-idler-pulleys-n-a.438273/
  6. Cebi Motors (previously Nuovo SME) makes these regulators for a number of vehicles, and the pin outs aren't always the same. I found that the Seat Ibiza MK2/3s also use a regulator that physically matches the ones in the Evoras, including the connector shape and number of pins, but the wiring didn't match up 1:1. See this post for more info: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/window-regulator.430786/post-5977462
  7. IIRC, the siren unit does have its own backup battery, and maybe can't hold a proper charge. If waiving your arms while seated within the vehicle didn't set it off, then maybe your proximity sensor is bad/unplugged, but isn't getting properly reported.
  8. Thanks for posting the follow-up with pictures. They'll definitely come in handy for anyone else having to tear down that part of the A/C. Also, there was a TSB released about those drain hose caps. Early Evoras had those rubber one-way valves installed, which were supposed to seep water out of the opening in the pinched end, but ultimately caused a blockage and were later removed. Next time you're under there, I would just remove them entirely. SB-10043684-2855.pdf
  9. Yeah, the glass has to come out first if you want to remove the regulator. After that though, it's only 3 bolts.
  10. I had posted that on LT (and possibly here too) after my first regulator started having issues after a severe downpour. A few dry days later, everything was back to working. Having removed the regulator to see if I could cross-reference it with another one (no such luck, btw), I noticed how poorly sealed they become over time. I would recommend coating any joints, screws, and gaps with a silicone sealant and let it dry before reinstalling.
  11. The metal parts that touch the exterior door handle are the 2 nuts that hold it to the door, and the rod that connects to the latch mechanism. I don't believe the handle has a spring itself, and relies on the spring in the latch to return the handle to the neutral position. If I had to wager a guess, it would be the rod itself is maybe a bit rusty on the end, being mild steel.
  12. Maybe it's certain colors they don't have record of, but Karen was able to find the original formula for the Paprika dye. It was an exact match for my seats:
  13. If you're handy with a wrench, you can remove all the rear seat and trim yourself, which takes maybe 15-30 minutes the first time. Then the sub enclosure is held in with a few bolts. Definitely agree with you @NC25T-- MDF or fiberglass (or MDF+fiberglass) for custom enclosures, never plywood. I can't remember the dimensions of the OE enclosure, but I'd be surprised if it's more than .5 cu/ft. It's plastic, so some sound deadening would help with resonance, poly fill probably wouldn't be too noticeable either way though given how little volume is inside.
  14. No, I doubt Lotus has a means for this to be always enabled in the ECU. My thought is by using an Arduino or other microcontroller to mimic the actions that a physical button press perform.
  15. No, it's controlled by the ECU. The default setting at power cycle is to have it disabled. There are a few ways I can think of to mimic the button press in an automated fashion though.
  16. The option is configurable in the ECU by way of TechCentre, and I'm sure if it's disabled (or unavailable, depending on MY), you won't get the higher redline and throttle mapping.
  17. There's not a lot of room for a custom enclosure in the stock location, but it's definitely doable. Maybe fiberglass?
  18. The sub comes in an enclosure, but it's ported towards the rear quarter panel, and actually is vented to a free-air void in the sill/rear clam. One thing you can do to improve the sound and bass response is to pull the enclosure out and seal the port. Still won't sound super awesome, since it is a relatively small driver (8") and the OE Alpine one is rather cheap, but it's better than nothing. I'd say if you're taking the time to seal the enclosure, it might make sense to replace the driver with something else while you're at it (I went with a shallow mount Pioneer TS-SW series), and replace the Alpine amp with something better (e.g. JL XD500/3), since it's also behind the side panel.
  19. My driver's side window does this too. I've taken the glass out a number of times, and even replaced the regulator (for an unrelated issue), but it still rattles when open. I'm thinking it might be the vertical rails that guide the edges of the glass up and down, but last time I tried to order these, Deroure said they were a factory ordered part that had no expected delivery date. I've verified the adjuster blocks are tight, so I'm also at a loss at what it could be.
  20. I've been emailing with Karen, and she said they have the paprika color as well.
  21. There's been a few posts on LT about cracks in wishbones, which then allows the joint to move around. I think the failures always seem to be right at/near that cast line.
  22. The MG part is rather inexpensive as a whole, but they can be repaired if you carefully remove the lens (it's adhered to the body). The LEDs are 3V, 7.6 x 7.6 mm P4 through-hole. I scrapped the OE LEDs and put a red COB strip on instead, using the PCB as a heatsink of sorts.
  23. Please do update. My LH paprika bolster is in serious need of some touch up.
  24. The latch is probably binding somewhere and not allowing for a complete unlock. Try manually manipulating the door lock pin up and down while trying the interior door handle. If it still won't open, there are very few options left to get the door open when the latch won't budge. I have a write-up on LT about one such method.
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