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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. It will lift the rear and the front of the side you're jacking from.
  2. Based on the bracket, it looks like a condenser (A132E6376S). #33. There should be one per bank. Here's a picture of mine on bank 2. Looks like the bolt probably came loose and that's why yours is flapping around. From what I found, they're noise filtering capacitors (250V, 2.2 uF) to help reduce ignition noise and/or alternator whine that is sometimes picked up by the radio/headunit. Also mentioned in the wiring diagrams as front and rear noise filters:
  3. Mine also has been running for a while with P0172/P0175 codes. Also replaced all the same things you did, in addition to the pre-cat O2 sensors. Idle is fine, and I don't really notice a huge hit to fuel economy, so I haven't spent too much effort resolving it. I did take it in to my indie shop and had them update the ECU with the latest code, which resolved it temporarily, but it's come back after a few weeks. They did indicate that if the update didn't fix it, it's likely fuel pressure related (which was a bit out of spec). I went ahead and ordered both a replacement fuel rail (comes with th
  4. It should. The double-press locks doors, enables the immobilizer, but disables the microwave sensor.
  5. It won't solve the quiescent drain issues completely, but it'll reduce it somewhat. The microwave sensor apparently draws quite a bit of juice, so by leaving the alarm disarmed (or by pressing the fob lock button twice), you at least negate that. But the ECU and other components seem to constantly draw power, so having it on a tender after about a week is probably always going to be a constant.
  6. No way to adjust the gearstick length/height. And the new knob should have a setscrew in it as well, which is what keeps it on the shaft. The lift tube position isn't much different from stock, and there isn't any noticeable threads or gap that I can see.
  7. Yes, you can remove just the HVAC panel (in green) and disconnect the few connectors on the underside. That should give you more than enough room to get to the boot zip tie (part 24).
  8. It's been a while since I swapped mine, but if I remember correctly, you compress those blue tabs at the top inward and the lift tube slides upward. You'll also need to remove the ziptie that's keeping the leather boot attached on the underside. In order to do that, you'll want to pull the entire HVAC panel/trim upward. It's held on with half a dozen clips, some of which might come off and fall down into the tunnel.
  9. I think you can mount a front cam without having to remove the clam. Depends on how you want to route the wiring to the headunit (assuming you're using a headunit with multi-cam connectivity). I know I've seen a picture of a front cam mounted at the top of the front grill, but I can't seem to locate that thread.
  10. I've not heard of anyone adding front parking sensors to an Evora. Front camera, yes. As far as I know, there are no speed-based 12V supplies. Most worry about parking initially, until they do it a few times, and then gauge how far to park away from curbs or walls. It becomes rather second nature to park a bit further back in a stall, so I'm not sure how necessary sensors (or even a camera) would be.
  11. It's probably a worn-out detent in the seat rail. Mine does this too, but I haven't had a look at it yet. Some others have reported this on LT, and surmised it could be from the constant back and forth moving of the seat during egress/ingress.
  12. I believe there's someone on the LT forum with the same issue. He had the issue traced to some sort of ABS-related fault, but not one that can be cleared by an OBD2 reader/scanner. Likely something that needs a TechCentre.
  13. The B2 pre-cat sensor can be easily changed from the top, as long as you have an O2 sensor socket handy. It helps to stand/crouch in the boot and sort of lay across the motor.
  14. Hey ID, I have the region 2 DVD (PAL) from Duke. Hit me up on LT for some info.
  15. Just the diagram in the service notes as far as I know. The wiring diagrams are pretty helpful too.
  16. Ok I just went out and did the procedure. Here's the simplified version: First things first, the key in the ignition switch has 3.5 positions, and it makes sense to go over which one is which (as referred to below). - 1) Ignition OFF (key in the most anti-clockwise position) - 2) Accessories (key in, and turned one "click" clockwise) - 3) Ignition ON (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise) - 3.5) Start (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise, and then another half turn clockwise to start the vehicle) With that said, the only positions we're interested in are 1) Off
  17. The process isn't really that difficult. It's all about timing though; counting light flashes to indicate which number is being represented and all that. When I last programmed a fob, it took me about 25 minutes from beginning to end, and that was including starting over a few times. It actually behooves one to be proficient enough at the entry of the security PIN in case your fob dies while you're out and about. It's the only way to disarm the immobilizer so you can start the car. I could paraphrase the procedure and try to make it easier to understand. Give me a bit.
  18. Ah, you mean a replacement fob? That requires the security system PIN, which Lotus should keep on file based on the VIN. Any dealership should be able to provide that data once they've verified ownership.
  19. You can order the blanks from Deroure/B&C, either pre-cut if you supply your key code or un-cut that you can take somewhere to be cut.
  20. I wouldn't think the fuel level sending unit wiring would need to be upgraded. If your goal is to only provide more current to the fuel pump, I'd focus just on its connections.
  21. If the S1s use the same connectors as the 400s, they have an 8-pin connector at the fuel module end. Either Excel or Yazaki. I couldn't find the Excel part #, but the Yazaki shows it's rated for 20A: https://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/servlet/SubServlet_e?forward=7283-5574-10&plist=list&select=XX The fuel pump connector is a 6-pin Tyco/AMP, which can handle between 14awg and 22awg wiring, so it could handle 20A as well if you rewired it: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-184060-1.html https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=sh
  22. The wiring diagrams show 1mm (~18 awg) wiring for most of the fuel pump and inertia switch circuits, except when it goes to the alarm module. 18awg wiring has a typical max current rating of 9.5A, so if you're actually drawing much higher, you'd want to switch to 14awg or larger and use the existing wiring just to trigger a relay like you've indicated. Did you replace R19 with a 20A fuse? If so, that would make sense why the connector wiring burned out instead of popping the stock 10A fuse.
  23. That seems reasonable to tidy up the mesh grills, but I could only imagine how long it would take to actually brush the plastic ducts behind the grills. My rear ducts definitely are faded and could use some renewing, but I haven't bothered to see if they can be pulled out from the wheel wells yet. May tackle that this fall when it isn't so hot in the garage.
  24. Glad to hear you got it sorted. Crap design aside, if you ever have to replace it again, I would highly recommend one of the aftermarket solutions.
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