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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. I did mine a few years ago, using a set from @Miguel and there were a few aluminum rivets on each that attach the bracket to the A-panel. Easy enough to drill out and replace.
  2. Don't see how that's possible. The service notes even mention when they became an available option:
  3. The lower front window rail adjuster probably needs to be adjusted slightly to angle the top of the window more inward, which will help the window put more pressure on the cheater seal, and the door seal in that area. The door card has to come off to gain access to the adjuster. EDIT: On another look at your 2nd picture, is that a tear in your door seal at the very top point of the mirror plinth? That could definitely cause a leak as well.
  4. If you have an aftermarket CAI, or you remove the stock one, the slave cylinder can be accessed from above relatively "easy". Less arm shredding at least.
  5. The boot release button also wasn't available until late-MY11/early-MY12. Although if you were to get the updated button panel that includes it, you could wire it up separately to provide that functionality.
  6. Heated seats weren't available until late-MY11/early-MY12. They were standard as part of the Premium Pack, or available as a separate option.
  7. I don't recall seeing an access panel or hole in the bell housing like on other vehicles I've had. That might make it rather difficult to get any grease where it needs to go (release fork pivot, spline shaft, etc). If there isn't a good way to do it in situ, it might be best left as a job during a clutch change.
  8. If the hydraulics are working properly, engaging/disengaging gears should be smooth. A failing m/c could definitely prevent the clutch from fully disengaging, which would make gear changes difficult.
  9. Probably the release fork. It loses lubrication over time. Mine squeaks too, but not nearly as bad.
  10. It's rather inconsistent when the pedal goes limp, so it could actually be a safety issue depending on when it happens. Mine decided to drop to the floor while on a banked on-ramp, merging with 2 other lanes of traffic. Tried to downshift, and nada. Imagine diving into a corner at high speed, expecting to be able to slow and downshift prior, only to be stuck in your current gear. Sure the brakes should still work (hopefully!), but it would be unsettling at the bare minimum. I say get it addressed sooner than later, and drive cautiously in the meantime.
  11. At least here in the states, there are add-on modules like these that can provide that functionality on top of the stock alarm. I don't know of any that have fitted one to the Evora specifically, but I would imagine it not being that difficult. Since it requires another channel from your remote to control the down function, you'd have to repurpose one of the buttons, like the trunk button.
  12. As far as I know, this is pretty common across all S1 Evoras, and isn't considered an issue. The rubbing seems to mostly happen on full suspension extension, and is minimal enough that I think it would take a very long time for it to rub its way through the arm. It could have been avoided entirely had Lotus just made the cables 1cm longer, but maybe they got in the way of something else? 🤷‍♂️
  13. Check out this thread: But yes, it can be done with just a trolley jack and some flat-top jack stands. I wouldn't recommend using axle stands.
  14. The cruise connector comes out the same way as the airbag connector; using a small flat blade screwdriver, press the release tab downward (towards the wires) and the connector should be able to come out. It might be somewhat lodged in the socket, so using another small flat blade screwdriver, you can try and leverage the plug out of the socket from the sides. Not a lot of room to get in there though. The other option is to remove those allen bolts holding the wheel to the center mount plate, which will allow you to get a screwdriver between the wheel and mount to get more leverage on tha
  15. @cdco is correct. The triangular cap has to be pried from the sprayer head, and then the 2 bolts underneath removed. I had removed one a few years ago. This is what the sprayer head looks like without the cap. The 2 nubs on either side are what holds the cap on.
  16. The back reservoir is the cooling system header tank. I believe the level when cold should be about 10mm below the seam, and no more than 25mm below the seam. Any more than that and there's the potential for coolant to be expelled when the system is hot, as there's no room left to expand. The front reservoir is for your charge cooler, and its max level is indicated by the line on the RHS.
  17. It was a few months ago, so it's quite possible that available stock has depleted, and is currently backlogged with the factory.
  18. I was able to order a LHS latch from Deroure/B&C and it showed up in about 2 weeks.
  19. The HVAC controls are on a separate board, but it's screwed to the top finishing surround, so they should come out together. Once released, you can unclip the electrical connections from the backside.
  20. Just a bunch of clips. I start near the handbrake end and pull upwards. You'll likely drop a few clips into the center tunnel, so have a magnetic retrieval tool handy.
  21. You would be correct. The exhaust valve is controlled by another solenoid (VSV) mounted to the rear subframe, and it needs a vacuum source. I would connect the red and black hoses together. As it stands, you currently have a vacuum leak.
  22. It should be one of those actions/sensors causing it to trip. The easiest to eliminate from the equation is the cabin microwave sensor. Next time you arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice to disable the microwave sensor. If the alarm then activates afterwards, at least you'll know that isn't it.
  23. There's a small plastic clip on the underside of the door pull mechanism. It rotates anti-clockwise (on LHS, or CW on RHS) if looking from the top of the card down. Rotate the clip, pull the end of the cable out of the mechanism, and then unscrew the retaining nut closest to the mechanism holding the cable onto the latch pull assembly and back the cable out of the mounting hole.
  24. Short of rewiring the alarm module, there isn't a way to disable the immobilizer. The immobilizer itself is just a fuel and ignition cut-off, so it really shouldn't draw any real power. The microwave sensor, however, does draw a bit of juice when the alarm is set. But the alarm being set and the vehicle being immobilized are two separate states (although it can also be the same state too).
  25. Yep, and mine is no different. But per the handbook and service notes, Lotus seems to think that a fresh, fully charged battery, in ideal conditions, with planets and moons in alignment, should last up to 3 weeks unattended:
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