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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Sounds good Michael! They could have avoided the whole issue by just drilling a strategically placed hole or two, and for free!
  2. Mine came with the Plack from the PO. Sounds great, but could be considered too loud by some. Removes the secondary cat + resonator + any valve equipment. Basically just a straight pipe with tips.
  3. I don't recall there being a drain hole in the underside of the clam; there probably should be, but they likely didn't put one there because it could potentially dribble water into the fresh air cabin filter. The HVAC air intake duct sits between the two radiator exhaust vent scoops: Here's a pic from when I took the clam off. The hinge area (and where the hole would need to be drilled) is roughly a few cm towards the front of the vehicle from where the cabin air filter is. And the intake duct, from Deroure:
  4. Some have the means and the ability to do that, but others don't, and would rather opt for a drop-in solution. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be an easy way to extract the PCBs in the first place, short of either cutting a hole in the backside, or removing the lens. If/when mine fail, I'll likely just remove the lens, as it's fairly easy and I've done that before, and then just replace all the LEDs at that time. And if no one has yet produced a gerber and/or replacement PCB by then, I'll try and work one out in Eagle.
  5. I haven't been able to procure an example board yet. Still looking for one, but no one seems to have any busted headlight assemblies for a reasonable amount.
  6. It's kind of disheartening (but also somewhat reassuring) to see that not much has changed in the 400's creature comforts vs. the S1. Having just cold or just hot is better than having neither, and you can sort of get a warm mixture by cracking a window and regulating it that way.
  7. Probably a one-off special build to celebrate the Esprit in the movie. Kind of like that custom-ordered Evora 410 in The Spy Who Loved Me style.
  8. The bushings should be lubricated with a synthetic grease like Superlube or similar. Nothing petroleum based though. It's pretty critical for them too, otherwise they'll make noise and/or wear out faster than they should. This is mentioned in the service notes, but I don't recall it specifying a lubricant. I had to replace my bushings twice, as I didn't lube them the first time and they only lasted about 5000 miles before the clunking came back. Now anytime I have the front undertray off I reapply the Superlube.
  9. You can buy the Xpel ones from Summit if you want to self-apply.
  10. You got a nicer unit. The INA-W900BT that my 11 came with is not only discontinued, but fairly worthless on the secondary market:
  11. They may have been worth something back in 2009/10, but by today's standards those Alpine units aren't worth much. The door speakers have rather thin paper cones, the sub not much better. The amp though, surprisingly, is a class D. It only has a 25A fuse, so it can't put out much power. If you plan on getting rid of the Evora in the future, it probably makes sense to hold onto the OEM gear, even if you don't plan on reinstalling it.
  12. The window motor fuses are in the front fuse box, passenger footwell. IIRC, you were having issues with your passenger window not working from the switch? Might also want to check C33.
  13. Thanks Gav for the pics. Does anyone have a functional or non-functional PCB they'd be willing to send me? I'd remove mine, but I hear they're a PITA to get out of the headlight assembly, and since mine are functional at the moment, I haven't a need. Prototyping a replacement would be made much easier if I had one to reference. I can pay for S+H if that makes it easier.
  14. I replaced my front drop links recently. Was going to go aftermarket, but the OEM ones were available and relatively inexpensive, so I just ordered them. I know at least 1 individual on LT replaced the rears with aftermarket links from Whiteline and was satisfied with them. If/when it comes time to do my rears, if the OEMs aren't available, I'll likely go the Whiteline route.
  15. Does anyone have a good image of the OEM PCB? I've designed a few in my day and could take a stab at replicating one if it isn't too complex.
  16. Yes. MTL only comes in one variant, which is the 75W/80 GL-4. The others are MT-85 and MT-90, but those aren't MTL. I suppose they are the same formula, but just different viscosities, and labeled differently.
  17. I just replaced mine yesterday with Redline MTL. Have used it in all of my previous vehicles and the shifting is significantly improved, especially when cold.
  18. Has it been determined that the board itself is the issue? Could it be just the LEDs themselves, or possibly the driver?
  19. I got a set of CocoMats for my S1, based off a template that another LT member had shared. I think if you don't want to go the OEM route, you're better off making a template (butcher paper/cardboard) and send it to one of the custom floor mat companies.
  20. I suppose I could always leave it in the ignition to avoid the problem too, but sometimes the key has to be removed and put into my pants pocket. It's definitely not ideal that it's so pricey, but I like the uniqueness of it and the amount of effort @TBD put into designing and producing it, and don't mind supporting a fellow TLF member. To put it into perspective, if this were a 911 key, it would be about $500. Granted, that has a much more finished appearance, and has electronics inside, but it likely cost them less than $20 in parts to make.
  21. Yeah. SLS printing isn't nearly as cheap as FDM, but produces much higher quality and resolution prints. The costs could probably be reduced by moving to injection molding, but since it's such low quantity, there'd likely be a huge penalty for a small batch.
  22. I think @TBD did a great job on the keyfob. Can't wait to receive mine. No more key stabbing me in the leg!
  23. I think the hardest part is removing all the interior pieces; the wiring is just 5 wires in total.
  24. Here's the pics; the roof harness does indeed come down the passenger-side B pillar, and meets up with main harness behind the subwoofer panel. I took the purple & white pin out of the connector on the roof harness side, and used a T-Tap to run a wire (blue in the photos) to the kick panel area. I ran it along the floor under the carpet and wire channel cover.
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