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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Success! I spent a few hours today installing my amp and subwoofer, and while I had it all apart, I located that dome light purple & white wire, and successfully cabled it up to my 2ch relay module. Now I have dome light fade in/fade out during ingress/egress and mood lighting when headlights are on. I took more pictures and will post them up tomorrow (err, later today); time to get some rest.
  2. Sure thing Christian. You can use any 12V SPDT automotive relay; I opted to use a micro-relay I had lying around, which I'll be replacing with a 2ch relay module once I locate that dome light wire. And if you didn't want to get a relay module, you could adapt the wiring to a single DPDT relay and achieve the same result.
  3. Can't seem to edit my previous post, but after thinking about it some more, relay B 30 should be connected to relay A 87 so that the dome light follows the original door open output when the relay is off.
  4. I didn't have time to draw up a diagram, but here's how you'd wire the 2 relays: Wire relay A as previously noted: 85 to 12V switched 86 to D9 30 to chassis ground 87 to D11 Wire relay B as follows: 85 to 12V switched (or relay A 85) 86 to relay A 86 30 to chassis ground (or relay A 30) 87a to purple & white wire leading to terminal 3 on the dome light. You'd want to sever the existing connection in the purple & white wire, so that the relay provides the ground. So what this
  5. Sure thing. I'll draw up a simple relay diagram. As for testing, I've already completed that first part for you, and will likely leave it in place since I like the subtle ambient lighting at night.
  6. Here's what I came up with: Remove passenger floor mat & kick panel, exposing fuse & relay box, and ICM Unmount ICM (1x 8mm nut and 1x 6mm bolt) Disconnect the "D" connector, which should be the white connector to the right-most side of the ICM while facing it (see image below) Locate the purple & white wire (D11) and the yellow wire (D9) (highlighted in the pic below). The D11 wire is for the Door Open Output, which is pulled low when the door switch is engaged (i.e. door open). The D9 wire is the headlamp switch illumination output, which we're using as th
  7. Looks to be rather simple. You have to connect the purple / white wire from the ICM pin D11 to ground to light up the mood lights. You'd want to isolate the dome light though, since it shares the same ground, otherwise it too would be on (you could always turn it to the off position). A simple relay could be connected to the illumination wire that the ICE uses for dimming and switch ground to your mood lighting.
  8. I'm sure West Covina would let you test drive one of the Euro-spec manuals if you were so inclined. Of course, being not street legal you'd want to wait for an actual US model, but at least you could get some seat time in a 400 manual.
  9. The newer latch assembly (inteva) should work, but it does away with the door sill button, so you're left with a hole in the door card. The other change is the interior door handle cable exits the latch assembly at a different (lower) point, so you'd likely have to poke a new hole in the foam access hole cover. Or upgrade to the MY12+ plastic covers. And the interior door handle is different, and has a different attachment method on the end of the cable.
  10. 12VDC most likely, and capable of providing upwards of 10A (fuse rating). There's also a relay for each seat on the front relay block, but probably not necessary if you're wiring direct using sufficient gauge. Since you're not using the ICM to control when the heaters stay on, you might want to rig some other safety system into place so that they don't get left on inadvertently and melt down your place.
  11. Clunking/popping/clicking noise/feeling in the steering wheel when pushing/pulling forward/backwards and side-to-side (not rotating it). It feels like the steering wheel has excess play and isn't "tight" on the column. See this and this thread for more in-depth info.
  12. If you have a pre-MY12, then you likely need the updated wheel spacer. See this howto I posted over on LT.
  13. It's likely the same part as on the S1 Evoras, which is notoriously inaccurate. I've seen temps as high as 124F during the summer, when it was barely 107F outside.
  14. It's held on by 3 fir tree fasteners, which the upper 2 fit into slotted holes, and the lower 1 is somewhat captive in the trim piece.
  15. I believe Bilstein also has a rebuild service that they will perform on most OE fitment shocks/struts.
  16. If the door drains are clear (the long ovalish cutouts at the rear bottom corner of the doors), then it's likely the seal at the bottom of the door that the door card fits over. The 4 or 5 plastic fasteners at the bottom of the door card go through this seal and into the door itself and can leak. I just fixed mine by removing the existing seal (looks like foam weatherstrip) and replaced it with some I had lying around. Pre-punctured the fastener holes and then reassembled and nary a drop now after a thorough all-day soaking from the rain.
  17. It's definitely accessible with the front clam off, but without going to that extreme, you can probably get by with just the left side wheel and arch liner. I'm not sure it would ease the job if the undertray is off, as the hose gets mounted up pretty high.
  18. Definitely better than the stock one, but over here, it reminds me of a clothes dryer vent hose...
  19. After disassembling the front end of my car to replace the clutch master cylinder, it became apparent that Lotus just wants people to believe working on these cars is somehow more complex than any other vehicle. Or maybe that's just what most people familiar with Lotus want to believe based on the book hours for most jobs. I would have been thrilled if I could have removed a "rear clam" on my mk2 MR-2 when I had to repair/replace the crankshaft pulley and front seals. Having to stand inside a trunk and lean over a motor made for a really achy back. If/when it's clutch changing time
  20. I had my starter rebuilt locally, but someone on LT wrote up a good howto.
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