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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Not sure what sort of GDOs you guys have over there, but if they're like our rolling code ones that utilize Security+, Homelink has these compatibility bridges that basically take the old-school Homelink signal from your vehicle and converts it to a more modern signal for your opener.
  2. If it's normally just held on with tape, then 3M VHB should do the trick.
  3. This was mentioned over on the LT forums, but sometimes a good throttle body cleaning and MAF cleaning (with MAF-specific cleaner only!) can clear up idle dips/stalls. Something else to try if the ECU reset doesn't fix it.
  4. Make sure you disarm your alarm/immobilizer first before disconnecting the battery
  5. As luck would have it, after cleaning my throttle body today I noticed that my vent hose is flaking too.
  6. I believe it's A132S0081F You might also want to take a look at this thread across the pond; there's lots of alternatives to that hose mentioned that don't have the flaking issue.
  7. If it isn't fault-related, it's possibly just a dead/dying starter or starter brushes. Mine was delivered in the same state you're describing.
  8. agentdr8


  9. Ah I see. Yeah here in the States, we call these things dash covers Just seeing the picture makes me cringe. Reminds me of my parents' car back in the early 90s.
  10. I use a Covercraft UVS100 (UV11156SV) windshield shade. It's made for the Evora, so it looks appropriate. The leather dash looks so nice, it'd be a shame to hide it under some carpet or velour. They even have one in metallic blue.
  11. Check out the excellent how-to over on this side of the pond.
  12. Found the time to install the module tonight. Here's the write-up. Let me know if there are any questions.
  13. I received my second-hand Evora with a slightly mis-aligned front bumper cover. Had a local body shop work with the dealer to fix it (at their cost), but it turns out the previous owner had some poor repairs done on the back-side of the cover, which caused it to sag in the middle. It was also missing the impact foam that is normally behind that part of the bumper. I had a chance to look at the front end while it was all taken apart, and I think the service notes are correct; if you want to adjust vertical alignment between the front edge of the clam and the top/trailing edge of the bumper
  14. Basically. But these universal modules have overload protection (so the mirrors aren't constantly folding/unfolding if you lock/unlock the doors repeatedly in a short period of time) and provide a 5sec +12V pulse to whichever side of the fold circuit. I had originally ordered a 12V dual timer relay module, and was going to use that, but found this mirror module on eBay for ~$12US.
  15. I have the replacement switch, which gives one manual control over the power folding. This thread is about automatic folding of the mirrors, which isn't possible with just the switch change. Now that I think about it, the switch doesn't even need to be swapped out to utilize the auto-fold module, but it does give you manual control over the power folding.
  16. This post may be a bit "late to the party", but I'll be integrating a power mirror auto-fold module into my 11 Evora next week. I've already found the wires needed for this, and will likely write up a quick "how to" and post it over on LT. These modules can be found on eBay/Amazon for very little coin, and basically have a few relays that provide power to either side of the mirror fold circuit (for a few seconds) depending on door lock signals. I plan on wiring mine to fold the mirrors when the doors are locked (via fob), and unfold when the ignition is hot. Having the mirrors unfold on
  17. GRP also carries wheel lug studs. They show them as 1.75", which is roughly 44.5mm, or extended length 2.25" (57mm).
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