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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Err, maybe I was unclear. I know the UK 400 has reflectors, but the US 400 should have lights, correct? And if that's the case, do you know what color the lights are going to be? I could imagine Lotus just re-using the S1 lights for the US 400, but I was hoping they would change the lens colors to match the UK 400 reflectors.
  2. I think they're the same as the S1 Fed Evora tail lights. Do either of you know if the fed marker lights are the same amber (front) and red (rear) as the S1 Evoras on the 400? I'd really like to replace mine with white/clear markers, but apparently the clear ones on the UK 400s are just reflectors.
  3. CarPlay and Android Auto headunits still utilize the connected phone (and its mobile data connection) for navigation. Google Maps now supports offline maps (for a specific region, based on available phone storage) which helps in this regard. The interface for GM still sucks as in-car navigation though; Waze is definitely better, and will be available on AA later this year.
  4. Probably just the boot latch switch is out of alignment and can't tell when it's open. Or the ground needs cleaning up.
  5. Last time I took mine out for a cleaning, it had the same Denso/Toyota markings that I recall from a previous Camry, so I'm guessing it's just a standard-issue Toyo MAF. I can go cross-ref the part # here in a bit. EDIT: Yep, pretty generic Denso MAF used in Toyota's line of vehicles with their 3.5 V6. Toyota part # is 22204-31020, Denso part is 197-6110.
  6. If you want to take the mirror folding one step further, you can automate the folding process like the 400s. See this thread for more info.
  7. Dry is when the fluid is brand new and uncontaminated. Wet is after the fluid has absorbed 3.7% water by volume. Even after a complete brake/clutch fluid flush, you'll still have some level of contamination when you put fresh fluid in. The higher the wet boiling point, the longer it'll last before it needs to be flushed again. It then comes down to driving preference/style vs. cost vs. flush frequency.
  8. Should be fine. Heat wrap on the line is definitely a good idea.
  9. I don't know that I've seen a DIY write-up here on TLF, but there is this one on LT.
  10. You'll want to swap the brake/clutch fluid (they share a reservoir) with some high temp DOT 4 like Castrol SRF or ATE Type 200, and bleed out all air from the clutch slave cylinder first, and then brake calipers, starting at passenger rear, then driver rear, pass front, driver front. And each caliper has 2 bleed nipples; 1 on the front and 1 on the back. That should definitely improve the clutch pedal feel, but if the master cylinder is failing, it won't be long before it gets mushy again. There was also a service bulletin, where the Lotus dealers would put heat reflective wrap on the clutch l
  11. Not to totally go OT, but I think this is usually a bad clutch position sensor, or it needs adjustment.
  12. Daniel, I too was concerned about reliability and cost of ownership when I picked up my 11 in March. But my researched uncovered what you're likely finding; the powertrain is solid, and rarely an issue with these cars. Maintenance items are rather average in price, and if you dig deep enough, you can find quite a few OEM parts from the vehicles they were originally designed for (Ford, Jag, Chevy, Toyota, etc) at a much better price than the Lotus-branded ones. I would think the most expensive items on these cars would be body-related. Even if you had to do the clutch, the parts aren'
  13. @bernico 19s I don't think there's been any mention of the transmissions not lasting over 14k miles. I'm fairly certain there's an individual on LT that has over 60k miles without any tranny issues (and original clutch too, iirc). If I had to wager a guess, I'd say maybe your synchros have failed. You shouldn't need a whole new transmission, unless it some how grenaded itself from loose bits flying around.
  14. I think the bigger hurdle if your 11 doesn't already have the (closed) ducts is getting them. It doesn't look like Deroure has part #s for those original ducts any more. And the MY12 ducts won't attach to the MY11 bumper using the existing mounting points.
  15. If you have a MY10-11, they changed the duct design from the MY12+, and the whole front bumper would have to be replaced (or the MY12 ducts would have to be modified). Might be easier to just switch pads/rotors to help stave off the fade.
  16. Not sure what sort of GDOs you guys have over there, but if they're like our rolling code ones that utilize Security+, Homelink has these compatibility bridges that basically take the old-school Homelink signal from your vehicle and converts it to a more modern signal for your opener.
  17. If it's normally just held on with tape, then 3M VHB should do the trick.
  18. This was mentioned over on the LT forums, but sometimes a good throttle body cleaning and MAF cleaning (with MAF-specific cleaner only!) can clear up idle dips/stalls. Something else to try if the ECU reset doesn't fix it.
  19. Make sure you disarm your alarm/immobilizer first before disconnecting the battery
  20. As luck would have it, after cleaning my throttle body today I noticed that my vent hose is flaking too.
  21. I believe it's A132S0081F You might also want to take a look at this thread across the pond; there's lots of alternatives to that hose mentioned that don't have the flaking issue.
  22. If it isn't fault-related, it's possibly just a dead/dying starter or starter brushes. Mine was delivered in the same state you're describing.
  23. agentdr8

    agentdr8

  24. Ah I see. Yeah here in the States, we call these things dash covers Just seeing the picture makes me cringe. Reminds me of my parents' car back in the early 90s.
  25. I use a Covercraft UVS100 (UV11156SV) windshield shade. It's made for the Evora, so it looks appropriate. The leather dash looks so nice, it'd be a shame to hide it under some carpet or velour. They even have one in metallic blue.
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