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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. I don't see where the fuel filler flap solenoid is tied into the ICM or CDL. One side of the flap relay coil is on the battery positive, and the other side is wired to ground via the dash switch. C9 on the ICM is an output, but I couldn't find mention of if that's high or low. You should be able to hook up a voltmeter and toggle the A/C switch and see.
  2. Not to be a Debbie Downer, but any gas loss is indicative of a problem. Hopefully it's something easy and cheap to fix though.
  3. I don't think there's a troubleshooting guide in the service notes, but I would check these in this order: - Fuses (C28, R11) - Refrigerant fill/pressures (if good, issue is likely related to electronics; if bad, likely a leak) - If leak, refill w/ UV dye and find/fix leak(s) - If not leak, check compressor, clutch, trinary switch - Rinse/repeat until working again
  4. That's how I used to get the front end up. Jack the rear on one side, put a stand with a puck under the front lift pad, set it down. Move jack to other side of car and repeat.
  5. From the service notes. In numerical order, it should be: 1: Brown/Yellow 2: Black/Yellow 3: Black 4: Blue/Purple 5: Grey 6: Blue/Orange
  6. You may need the Homelink bridge for the Chamberlain/Liftmaster openers. The version of Homelink in the Evoras wasn't the most recent, so it may not be directly compatible with the security features of your opener. See here for compatibility.
  7. There's both the BOE CAI and the Radium CAI available for the NAs. I believe BOE ships worldwide; not sure Radium still makes their intake. Might be able to find one in the secondary market.
  8. I've used Spraymax 2K clear before and it works great. Not just for automotive applications, but other things as well.
  9. A132J0107H It's up near the pivot point of the clutch pedal. #14:
  10. The service notes indicate that the clutch sensor switch is also used to briefly cut fuel between shifts. I replaced mine a few years ago when I was encountering stalling issues when slowing to a stop. Even though it wasn't throwing any clutch sensor-related codes, it seemed to clear up that issue.
  11. Don't worry Dean, I've got you covered. Thought this would come in handy at some point in the future: https://divinehandcraft.co.uk/products/lotus-evora-logo-side-repeater-sticker-decal
  12. Apparently later in the model years, Lotus used the all-metal oil cooler feed/return pipes. In the thread I had started on LT, Julian had posted a picture of his 12S heat exchanger housing with the metal pipes. The oil lines that head towards the front of the car should remain flexible (#7 and #8 below), and I believe those are the ones that were covered under a Lotus recall. I believe those are also only present on S cars.
  13. This set of rubber hoses was replaced (under TSB) on other Toyota 2GR-FE vehicles because of this very problem. Their solution was to remove all the rubber hose components and replace them with solid metal ones. I actually bought the necessary parts to accomplish this, but never got around to doing it on mine, since the oil has to be drained first, and it's much easier to access this area from the rear seat access hole. I've attached the Toyota TSB for reference. I had also created a thread about these potential Toyota TSBs and how applicable they would be to our 2GR-FE-driven cars
  14. If it's the turn signal PCB itself, then you'll have to remove the headlight assembly and open it up to determine if there's an issue. On the spare assembly I had purchased off ebay, I found the PCB power connector had come partially undone from its solder pads. It could be a similar failure in yours. If you plan on fixing it yourself, you'll probably want to drill out the rivets holding the heatsink to the PCB, and remove it. Then heat up the backside of the PCB (aluminum-backed) on a hot-plate or with a heat gun/hair drier, then try and repair the connector.
  15. Strange coincidence that another one of these has been reported recently. I just repaired mine in Jan, and someone on the FB group is going through it now as well. Something in the early non-Inteva latch release mechanisms bind as they age, and it results in neither of the handles working to open the door. You can fix this yourself if you're handy, but it requires removing the 2 door striker bolts from the inside of the car. I posted a how-to over on LT: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/open-a-door-when-the-latch-has-failed-closed.475272 Give me a few to fix it; the mods
  16. Here's a thread over on LT that goes into depth on the window regulators. Unfortunately, they're fairly specific (electronics-wise) to our cars, even though the regulator/motor assembly can be found in various other vehicles. The end-result is that no cross-reference parts have been found (yet), but there's the potential to make a wiring harness that would allow the regulators from Seat vehicles to work in our cars. Not sure what the progress is on that currently though.
  17. It's rather normal I believe. Mine are like that, as are others I've seen while underneath their cars. Not sure if there's a need for a fix. If nothing else, now our cars are even lighter.
  18. While that aftermarket O2 sensor may work, you might have better luck using an OEM Bosch. They're available under all these different part #s: Bosch 0258006127 Bosch MHK 100840 Lotus A117E6007F Denso DOX-2017 Rover MHK 1008 40L
  19. The idler pulleys have bearings in them that can sometimes lock up and cause a squeal. This is especially true with the Toyota 3.5 V6, which had a few different TSBs over the years addressing such issue (at least in the Toyota applications). Not saying this is definitely the cause of your particular squeal, but it's one of the many things that can. Some others being bad water pump seal, bad A/C compressor clutch, bad alternator, bad PS pump, bad belt tensioner, or it could not be a squeal at all, and it could be a harmonic noise that's occurring due to rubbing of metal on metal. I
  20. From what I can see in the parts diagrams, it looks like they came be removed separately from the dash. I've never tried to remove them though, so let us know if you manage it.
  21. And some of those LEDs are controlled by the dimmer button on the dash, so you may want to cycle it a few times to see if that makes a difference.
  22. I posted this one over on LT. It's specifically on an NA, but the S is the same procedure, just with a longer belt.
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