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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. A132J0107H It's up near the pivot point of the clutch pedal. #14:
  2. The service notes indicate that the clutch sensor switch is also used to briefly cut fuel between shifts. I replaced mine a few years ago when I was encountering stalling issues when slowing to a stop. Even though it wasn't throwing any clutch sensor-related codes, it seemed to clear up that issue.
  3. Don't worry Dean, I've got you covered. Thought this would come in handy at some point in the future:
  4. Apparently later in the model years, Lotus used the all-metal oil cooler feed/return pipes. In the thread I had started on LT, Julian had posted a picture of his 12S heat exchanger housing with the metal pipes. The oil lines that head towards the front of the car should remain flexible (#7 and #8 below), and I believe those are the ones that were covered under a Lotus recall. I believe those are also only present on S cars.
  5. This set of rubber hoses was replaced (under TSB) on other Toyota 2GR-FE vehicles because of this very problem. Their solution was to remove all the rubber hose components and replace them with solid metal ones. I actually bought the necessary parts to accomplish this, but never got around to doing it on mine, since the oil has to be drained first, and it's much easier to access this area from the rear seat access hole. I've attached the Toyota TSB for reference. I had also created a thread about these potential Toyota TSBs and how applicable they would be to our 2GR-FE-driven cars
  6. If it's the turn signal PCB itself, then you'll have to remove the headlight assembly and open it up to determine if there's an issue. On the spare assembly I had purchased off ebay, I found the PCB power connector had come partially undone from its solder pads. It could be a similar failure in yours. If you plan on fixing it yourself, you'll probably want to drill out the rivets holding the heatsink to the PCB, and remove it. Then heat up the backside of the PCB (aluminum-backed) on a hot-plate or with a heat gun/hair drier, then try and repair the connector.
  7. Strange coincidence that another one of these has been reported recently. I just repaired mine in Jan, and someone on the FB group is going through it now as well. Something in the early non-Inteva latch release mechanisms bind as they age, and it results in neither of the handles working to open the door. You can fix this yourself if you're handy, but it requires removing the 2 door striker bolts from the inside of the car. I posted a how-to over on LT: Give me a few to fix it; the mods
  8. Here's a thread over on LT that goes into depth on the window regulators. Unfortunately, they're fairly specific (electronics-wise) to our cars, even though the regulator/motor assembly can be found in various other vehicles. The end-result is that no cross-reference parts have been found (yet), but there's the potential to make a wiring harness that would allow the regulators from Seat vehicles to work in our cars. Not sure what the progress is on that currently though.
  9. It's rather normal I believe. Mine are like that, as are others I've seen while underneath their cars. Not sure if there's a need for a fix. If nothing else, now our cars are even lighter.
  10. While that aftermarket O2 sensor may work, you might have better luck using an OEM Bosch. They're available under all these different part #s: Bosch 0258006127 Bosch MHK 100840 Lotus A117E6007F Denso DOX-2017 Rover MHK 1008 40L
  11. The idler pulleys have bearings in them that can sometimes lock up and cause a squeal. This is especially true with the Toyota 3.5 V6, which had a few different TSBs over the years addressing such issue (at least in the Toyota applications). Not saying this is definitely the cause of your particular squeal, but it's one of the many things that can. Some others being bad water pump seal, bad A/C compressor clutch, bad alternator, bad PS pump, bad belt tensioner, or it could not be a squeal at all, and it could be a harmonic noise that's occurring due to rubbing of metal on metal. I
  12. From what I can see in the parts diagrams, it looks like they came be removed separately from the dash. I've never tried to remove them though, so let us know if you manage it.
  13. And some of those LEDs are controlled by the dimmer button on the dash, so you may want to cycle it a few times to see if that makes a difference.
  14. I posted this one over on LT. It's specifically on an NA, but the S is the same procedure, just with a longer belt.
  15. The S1s also have a clutch damper (A132Q0021F).
  16. Yep, if it's never been removed, then it should have 4x really tight spring clips holding the facia on. Some people remove one of the clips after removing this panel the first time to make subsequent removals easier. Here's some pictures of that panel, and the areas which you need to tug.
  17. There's the fuel shut-off that could trip if the car was tilted too much in either direction. Not specifically an anti-jacking component, but I could see having to push the reset on that under some circumstances.
  18. Nope. Both can be rebuilt from the pedal-side, and both brands are highly regarded for making quality hydraulics. Comes down to availability/price, and if you have a preference.
  19. Ok thanks. There was some speculation that the master cylinder placement in relationship to the coolant lines was a contributor to failures, which seem more prevalent in LHD cars vs the RHD ones. Since you're out of warranty, I strongly suggest you go with an aftermarket m/c, either Wilwood or Tilton. Either can be had in a week or so, and will outlast any replacement Lotus m/c. Plus both are rebuildable from the interior.
  20. Don't worry, it happens to the earlier metal master cylinders too. Replaced mine at ~27k with a Wilwood and haven't had issue since. Curious to know, is your car a LHD by chance @Scotsdave?
  21. It's "other". I believe someone found a matching part for a tractor, but the cost and availability is about the same as direct from Lotus.
  22. The wheels are hub-centric, so you could replace one at a time without having to lift the wheels.
  23. Deroure is showing part # A132G0047F for the security bolt kit, so I'm assuming it comes with matching bolts. Not sure if they're all keyed the same. I've never actually seen any Evoras with security bolts.
  24. I wish Lotus had created a nice pin out like that for the S1 Evoras. I'm sure most of it is still applicable though. They also didn't have a connector description list like they do on the 400s.
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