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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. The S1s also have a clutch damper (A132Q0021F).
  2. Yep, if it's never been removed, then it should have 4x really tight spring clips holding the facia on. Some people remove one of the clips after removing this panel the first time to make subsequent removals easier. Here's some pictures of that panel, and the areas which you need to tug.
  3. There's the fuel shut-off that could trip if the car was tilted too much in either direction. Not specifically an anti-jacking component, but I could see having to push the reset on that under some circumstances.
  4. Nope. Both can be rebuilt from the pedal-side, and both brands are highly regarded for making quality hydraulics. Comes down to availability/price, and if you have a preference.
  5. Ok thanks. There was some speculation that the master cylinder placement in relationship to the coolant lines was a contributor to failures, which seem more prevalent in LHD cars vs the RHD ones. Since you're out of warranty, I strongly suggest you go with an aftermarket m/c, either Wilwood or Tilton. Either can be had in a week or so, and will outlast any replacement Lotus m/c. Plus both are rebuildable from the interior.
  6. Don't worry, it happens to the earlier metal master cylinders too. Replaced mine at ~27k with a Wilwood and haven't had issue since. Curious to know, is your car a LHD by chance @Scotsdave?
  7. It's "other". I believe someone found a matching part for a tractor, but the cost and availability is about the same as direct from Lotus.
  8. The wheels are hub-centric, so you could replace one at a time without having to lift the wheels.
  9. Deroure is showing part # A132G0047F for the security bolt kit, so I'm assuming it comes with matching bolts. Not sure if they're all keyed the same. I've never actually seen any Evoras with security bolts.
  10. I wish Lotus had created a nice pin out like that for the S1 Evoras. I'm sure most of it is still applicable though. They also didn't have a connector description list like they do on the 400s.
  11. I would never put the OEM master cylinder back into my car, regardless of it's the original metal one, or the allegedly better-designed plastic one. They're both non-rebuildable and prone to failure. Either the BOE unit Chad mentioned above (made by Tilton Engineering) or the one that GRP & MWR sells (made by Wilwood Engineering). Both mfgs are well-known and respected for making quality automotive hydraulics.
  12. Nope. ECU doesn't care if clutch position sensor is triggered or not when starting. At least not on my 11.
  13. Jump starting has been known to fry Evora ECUs before. There's a few threads over on LT about it. Here's one of them. The end result is usually having to procure a new ECU. Are you getting a COMMS FAILURE error on the dash screen?
  14. I believe so, as long as the variant code is similar enough to the options/equipment your car has.
  15. How would a different ECU have the same serial as another car? As long as the base options are set in the ECU (trans type, cluster arrangement, etc) and match the vehicle it's plugged into it should at least start. From what I see on the parts list, there's only a single ECU part # for both NA and S cars, but it comes uncalibrated, and requires that a proper variant code be entered in TechCentre and program file (.CRP) in order to set all the options correctly. The service notes state: Care point, please also see Lotus Technical Service Bulletin TSB 2012/17 for important information
  16. The service notes have some of this information, but there's no page that lists what each pin does. You have to decipher that through the wiring diagrams for each electrical system, as indicated in the graphic:
  17. If it's just the LCD screen that you need, I have the ones out of my car that I'm not using. I had purchased one of those KPH units from Motorsport Auctions in order to disect for my anti-red backlight mod, and ended up swapping the LCD screens over to my cluster since they're matte instead of glossy. But to swap it out you'd need to remove the gauge cluster and separate the halves. It's also possible that the ribbon cable is just slightly misaligned, and is preventing that area from drawing pixels. But that too would require you to remove the cluster and open to inspect.
  18. Could be bad audio processor, or bad pre-outs, or bad wiring. The amp is located in the rear of the car, behind the b-pillar cover on the RHS, above the subwoofer.
  19. While not exactly scissor/Lambo doors, it seems that Lotus knows people want "billionaire doors", as evidenced on the Evija. Hopefully they consider that for their other future cars targeted at more 'average' people.
  20. Stainless steel? I don't think I've seen an OEM one of those before. I have the aluminum knob from Elise-shop on mine. I like the heft vs the leather OE one, and it came with everything necessary for the swap.
  21. Yes, my bad. I was looking at the diagram from the wrong perspective. 17 is the one from the bank closest to the bulkhead.
  22. I plan on also doing the steering wheel, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
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