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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Yep. Once you separate the lens, you remove the middle layer, which houses the LED ring. It's mounted on the backside via 2 spring nuts. I posted a few pics a while back when I disassembled mine. You can check out the photos here. The brown and black wires lead to the LED board.
  2. I know to pull the one out of the spare headlight assembly I have the lens had to be separated. It was fairly simple with a heat gun on low, moving it constantly in a sweeping motion. Others have said they've replaced theirs without opening the headlight, and I don't know how that would be possible without cutting a hole in the fixture.
  3. It could be the triangular mirror mount. That area is a known leak source as well.
  4. IIRC, the rear diffuser and rear undertray all use the same bolt size. M8-1.25 x 20mm w/ small wrench head (10mm). I'd recommend zinc plated steel over stainless steel; less worries about galvanic corrosion.
  5. Gatorback belts used to be Goodyear, but are now branded as Continental Elite. I used 4070825 for my most recent belt change. I have a spare Bando and a Dayco, but the Gatorback/Conti belt seems to be as good as they've been on other vehicles I've used them on in the past. If you really want to use a Gates, that part number for the NA is K070822 for their V-rib design. I don't know that it's a waste of time fitting a non-gatorback style belt, but you may eventually experience slippage with the standard ribbed designed belts. I'd say go with what you've got, and at the next belt change
  6. I finally got around to installing my Powerflex Performance ARBs and I definitely believe they'll last a lot longer than the OEM ones. Not that the OEMs are really soft or squishy, but the Powerflex ones are 80A hardness. I have noticed a slight increase in NVH, but I'd say it's less than 10% over OEM. I'm sure the Race ones at 95A would make for a significantly harsher ride. I had gone through 2 sets of OEM ARBs in under 3 years. Maybe a total of 15k mi.
  7. Just to clarify, there's no aux belt, just a single serpentine that drives all of the accessories (and supercharger, if so equipped). Unless the corrosion is really bad, or closer to the center bearing on the pulleys or accessories, I probably wouldn't worry too much about it.
  8. John you could probably order them from Deroure, who gets their stuff directly from Lotus too.
  9. I would think less than $15 at most online 3D printing places. Since GRP created that mount themselves, they likely wouldn't have posted it in the public domain. Probably about an hour's work to model one in Fusion or CAD to create something similar.
  10. I have one of these from GRP. It's basically a universal folding cup holder like one of these attached to a custom 3D printed mount that clamps over the seat adjustment bar.
  11. Yes, sorry for that. I was busy with a home sale, and then more travel, and this effort slipped my mind. I do still have a few completed kits ready, but based on the import duties, it makes sense to ship as many as possible all at once, rather that individual shipments. In order to do that, I'd need to know exactly how many kits to include in the shipment.
  12. Based on an import duty calculator site I found, if I set a relatively low value for the items, the duty comes out to 3.06 GBP for the whole shipment. I have no problem covering that cost for whoever would be receiving the shipment. So if everyone is in agreement with @Foxy distributing the kits locally, I would just invoice individually, with the shipping divided evenly amongst the group.
  13. So I have 2 additional kits built and ready to send out. I had contacted those next on the list, but haven't heard back. Wasn't sure if everyone was hoping for a single batch to be sent over to the UK to reduce S&P costs or if the interest had just waned. Before I spend more time on the final 2, what say everyone? I'm ok shipping them all at once, and let @Foxy sort out local distribution, or send them individually. @trcm @Bibs @pete757
  14. Maybe the parking situation over there is better, but here in the states, the spots at many places are barely wide enough for the car itself, and when you get people who park on/near the lines, there are times where you might avoid a door ding, but instead they smack the mirror when shimmying out between the cars and either fold it backwards (assuming it can fold that way) or they just break it off.
  15. I've updated the installation guide with the feedback from @Brendonian, and included his picture of the roof harness 2 location. Evora Mood Lighting Wiring Kit Install Guide_v1.2.pdf
  16. I think the ambient lighting is part of the Premium pack, and it's an all-or-nothing option. So if you have door lighting, you likely have dash lighting as well. There's different LED segments though, each with their own LED light source. So it's possible the one for the dash/glovebox area is out or disconnected.
  17. I think I had one of those captive nuts disappear as well when I removed a seat. It took fishing around for about an hour til I located it and was able to grab it with a flexible pickup tool. I think the seat will be fine with 3 bolts, but I'd probably fish around for it at some point, just so it isn't rattling around under the flooring. Thanks for the feedback on the kit! I wasn't sure if 10ft was going to be sufficient, as the run on LHD cars is only about 5ft, if that. Plus the spools of wire I order are nicely divided by 10. But I'll keep that in mind and make it 15ft for RHD vehicle
  18. Wow. Now I feel like I should probably pull mine to see if they need a thorough cleaning. 😮 😮
  19. The roof harness 2 connector should be behind the RHS rear quarter panel. But since the RHD front fuse panel area is on the LHS of the vehicle, you can choose to either run the wire along the back seat (I'd tuck it under the carpet near the leading edge of the back seat) and over to the LHS of the vehicle and go up under that sill cover, or you can remove the RHS sill cover and then somehow get the wire across the driver's footwell into the passenger's footwell. Since the RHS rear quarter panel is tucked under the RHS sill cover, that cover has to be removed either way. Whether you choos
  20. I was quite surprised how much sound deadening the rear seat bottom and back pad provide. Without them, the interior noise is pretty unbearable, especially if you have a loud exhaust like a Plack Looking good so far @Brendonian.
  21. If you've ever had the center console surround off, like for a headunit swap, it's possible the LED that drives the light strip has either rotated or is not seated properly. I don't recall ever seeing light bleed near my steering column.
  22. Probably. The ambient lighting is all driven off the same source (fuse C12), so it would be a matter of isolating just the LED connections to avoid also dimming the dome light, which shares the same source.
  23. In theory, yes. But using a pot to reduce current will incur heat, and while most pots are tolerant to some degree, it would be better to do this via PWM. Also, to update everyone on progress, I've got 2 more kits built and should have the remaining 2 done by week's end.
  24. Removing the sill panel is probably the easiest way, although you could also run the wire down the center tunnel and under the back seat. It's possible to remove the rear inside RH quarter panel without pulling the sill panel, but there's about a 2/3" of side panel that sits underneath the sill cover. Having done many car audio installs over the years, pulling panels and carpeting to hide wiring is rather second-nature for me. The ultimate goal (from my perspective and experience) is really just to hide wiring to make the install "cleaner" looking. Unfortunately there's no easy way to ac
  25. Thanks for the feedback on the bolt location. I wasn't sure if it was reversed on the RHD cars; but now that I know I can update the install guide accordingly. Great job on the install and posting the pic. If you have any questions about the second "phase" let me know and I'll do my best to help out.
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