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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. I think the ambient lighting is part of the Premium pack, and it's an all-or-nothing option. So if you have door lighting, you likely have dash lighting as well. There's different LED segments though, each with their own LED light source. So it's possible the one for the dash/glovebox area is out or disconnected.
  2. I think I had one of those captive nuts disappear as well when I removed a seat. It took fishing around for about an hour til I located it and was able to grab it with a flexible pickup tool. I think the seat will be fine with 3 bolts, but I'd probably fish around for it at some point, just so it isn't rattling around under the flooring. Thanks for the feedback on the kit! I wasn't sure if 10ft was going to be sufficient, as the run on LHD cars is only about 5ft, if that. Plus the spools of wire I order are nicely divided by 10. But I'll keep that in mind and make it 15ft for RHD vehicle
  3. Wow. Now I feel like I should probably pull mine to see if they need a thorough cleaning.
  4. The roof harness 2 connector should be behind the RHS rear quarter panel. But since the RHD front fuse panel area is on the LHS of the vehicle, you can choose to either run the wire along the back seat (I'd tuck it under the carpet near the leading edge of the back seat) and over to the LHS of the vehicle and go up under that sill cover, or you can remove the RHS sill cover and then somehow get the wire across the driver's footwell into the passenger's footwell. Since the RHS rear quarter panel is tucked under the RHS sill cover, that cover has to be removed either way. Whether you choos
  5. I was quite surprised how much sound deadening the rear seat bottom and back pad provide. Without them, the interior noise is pretty unbearable, especially if you have a loud exhaust like a Plack Looking good so far @Brendonian.
  6. If you've ever had the center console surround off, like for a headunit swap, it's possible the LED that drives the light strip has either rotated or is not seated properly. I don't recall ever seeing light bleed near my steering column.
  7. Probably. The ambient lighting is all driven off the same source (fuse C12), so it would be a matter of isolating just the LED connections to avoid also dimming the dome light, which shares the same source.
  8. In theory, yes. But using a pot to reduce current will incur heat, and while most pots are tolerant to some degree, it would be better to do this via PWM. Also, to update everyone on progress, I've got 2 more kits built and should have the remaining 2 done by week's end.
  9. Removing the sill panel is probably the easiest way, although you could also run the wire down the center tunnel and under the back seat. It's possible to remove the rear inside RH quarter panel without pulling the sill panel, but there's about a 2/3" of side panel that sits underneath the sill cover. Having done many car audio installs over the years, pulling panels and carpeting to hide wiring is rather second-nature for me. The ultimate goal (from my perspective and experience) is really just to hide wiring to make the install "cleaner" looking. Unfortunately there's no easy way to ac
  10. Thanks for the feedback on the bolt location. I wasn't sure if it was reversed on the RHD cars; but now that I know I can update the install guide accordingly. Great job on the install and posting the pic. If you have any questions about the second "phase" let me know and I'll do my best to help out.
  11. If you've never removed the trim, it can definitely feel like a daunting task. The great thing is the material Lotus used for the base of these trim pieces (SRIM) is extremely strong, so there should be less concern about causing damage. That said, the majority of the install can be done without removing any of the trim. In fact, if one were to choose to defer hooking up the dome light wire pass-thru harness, you'll have the first "stage" of the mod completed, in which case the mood lighting will come on with the headlights, but the dome light will as well if it's in the Auto position.
  12. Here is the install guide. Please let me know if there are any questions, or if any steps need to be more in-depth. I forgot to take a picture of the roof harness 2 pass-thru connector plugged in, but it should look exactly like the existing connector. Evora Mood Lighting Wiring Kit Install Guide.pdf
  13. Check fuses C39 and C40 in the passenger footwell fuse panel. If those are fine, check the 2 relays in the same area along the right-hand side of the relay block. Middle and bottom relays are for heated seats. If all those are present and fine, then it's possible heated seats didn't get enabled in your ECU. TechCentre is needed to turn that feature on, otherwise the EMS won't ever send the on signal. See this thread for more details.
  14. I'm not sure how large the FB group is, or how many would be interested. Since there's only one of me, building any large quantities is likely untenable in a part-time hobby capacity. Let's get through this first TLF batch and see how it goes from there. I've placed the order for 5 more sets of components and will begin assembling when I return from a business trip on Friday.
  15. Yep, I'll be posting an install guide, full of pictures. I'll probably reference the service notes for some, and other how-to articles for others, but it should be easily installable by most with just a few hand tools. And the footwell lights are not part of the mood lighting; they're driven off a different ICM input.
  16. Don't worry Dean, I haven't forgotten about PM conversation. I actually had already started on the one for you before I finished the first kit. Here's the list so far. I'll probably just place an order for parts with this quantity plus a few extras, and work on building them all as a single batch. @Techyd @Foxy? (wasn't sure if you wanted one or was just offering to distribute) @trcm @pete757
  17. Sounds good. I'll PM you details. Off to go test the kit on my car, and take some install pics while I'm at it.
  18. I'm right around $75USD including P&P to most of the UK. Hopefully that's reasonable. That would definitely lower the P&P costs significantly, as the cheapest I could find is via USPS at around $25 per. Of course there would be a delay for the entire lot, as it takes me a day or two to build a set, and a few days to a week to receive the parts. Swapping the LED color to something else wouldn't be hard, but incorporating multicolored ones might be, as there's only a single pair of wires going to the LEDs. Need at least another wire to be able to control which color is
  19. at least over here, there were regulations for the longest time around sealed beam headlights. Of course none of those squares, circles, or squircles were very elegant compared to today's modern composite headlight assemblies. While I don't have any specifics, I think the US finally got rid of mandating sealed beam headlights due to safety concerns during collisions. And after accidents, broken headlamp glass would always end up on the road, causing tire punctures, and probably even more accidents.
  20. Plastic degrades over time when exposed to UV (turns yellow and gets brittle). To lessen the effects, it's usually coated with a UV-resistant clear coat. Unfortunately that clear coat breaks down over time, leaving an ugly, peely mess. Ideally the mfgs would go back to using glass headlight covers, but I guess it's too hard to make complex curved shapes with glass. It's also heavier, and possibly less safe.
  21. I can't remember exactly, as it's been a while since I had my brake rotors off, but I believe there's a threaded hole in the hats that you can use to put a bolt into and push the rotor away from the hub.
  22. I can't say I've heard the relay "cycle" like that; I'm guessing it's trying to engage the clutch but some other failsafe is preventing it (trinary switch, compressor rpm sensor, etc).
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