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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. Plastic degrades over time when exposed to UV (turns yellow and gets brittle). To lessen the effects, it's usually coated with a UV-resistant clear coat. Unfortunately that clear coat breaks down over time, leaving an ugly, peely mess. Ideally the mfgs would go back to using glass headlight covers, but I guess it's too hard to make complex curved shapes with glass. It's also heavier, and possibly less safe.
  2. I can't remember exactly, as it's been a while since I had my brake rotors off, but I believe there's a threaded hole in the hats that you can use to put a bolt into and push the rotor away from the hub.
  3. I can't say I've heard the relay "cycle" like that; I'm guessing it's trying to engage the clutch but some other failsafe is preventing it (trinary switch, compressor rpm sensor, etc).
  4. You're probably hearing the A/C Compressor relay, which is located in the rear fuse panel area.
  5. It also helps if you have a gauge set you can hook up to see if the pressures are within spec. Without refrigerant, it won't turn on, and that would be a simple tell-tale sign that there's a leak somewhere.
  6. I also ordered a set of connectors to build a pass-through for the "roof harness 2" connector, so that the dome light wire connection is also plug-and-play. This should make the entire kit 100% reversible without any modifications to the stock harness.
  7. For my car, I just double-sided 3M VHB'd the pcb relay module to a nearby flat surface. But for the one I'm putting together for @Brendonian I plan on 3D printing a small ABS enclosure just so it looks/feels more polished. Less concern about it touching any metal if the tape fails too (not that I've ever had that happen with VHB). To be honest, I'm not sure if the dome light wire runs down the driver's side on a RHD car. I'd imagine it's a mirror of the LHD cars since your fuse panel is on the passenger side as well, unless your subwoofer is also on the driver's side, in which case there
  8. I'm about $45 in so far, but didn't source from China, which would have reduced costs by at least half, in exchange for having to wait 3 months to receive parts. If going for lowest cost, you could get either a single DPDT, or 2 SPST 12V relays. For simplicity, I went with a 2-channel 12V relay module, which is basically 2 micro SPST relays on a pcb with some screw headers.
  9. No problem. I'll update after I receive a few more pieces.
  10. Here's the prototype. Really just a simple pass-through, with a few extra leads on the pertinent pins. I wasn't sure if you were thinking of something more complete, like with relays or relay module wired in, etc. I could do that as well, so the only thing that would have to be done aside from plugging stuff in would be to run a wire to the B pillar for the dome light.
  11. I think you could also fashion the spacer out of a piece of PVC if you were so inclined.
  12. Thanks to a post by @2011 Chrome Orange over on LT, I was able to track down the necessary connectors I would need to make a plug-n-play kit. I've got a set on order and will test and let you know how it turns out.
  13. It's possible they engineered their own metal m/c and when that didn't work out, they engineered their own plastic m/c. I've not seen them cross-referenced from any other vehicle before. Contrast that with the slave cylinder, which is a nice Toyota/Aisin unit that rarely (if ever) fails. I think the importance of yearly fluid flushes is high because the brake and clutch reservoir is shared, so all that cooked fluid from those high speed stops will accelerate the wear and tear on the clutch hydraulics as well.
  14. The problem is that Lotus didn't just use a run-of-the-mill Toyota/Aisin clutch master cylinder. Had they, I doubt there'd be as many reports of failing units as there are.
  15. The 12+ inner door pull handles have thicker padding than the earlier ones. The leather also feels softer to the touch. If replacing them due to worn/brittle clip mounts, I'd take the opportunity to redesign how the handle covers are attached. Probably use some neodymium magnets on both surfaces to hold the covers on instead of those "S" clips.
  16. The offset being that most dealers here in the states want anywhere from $100-$300 just to reset the airbag light. I'd much rather have a tool I'd only use once, but could use in the future, instead of paying the dealer one time for this service. Plus you can always resell the tool at a slight loss if you really want to minimize costs or tool clutter.
  17. You can also reset the airbag light if you find a Foxwell NT 630 or similar that supports a 2009-2011 Daewoo Epica, Tosca or Gentra. There's a thread on LT about the discovery.
  18. West-of-Hethel on LT had this happen, and found out it shouldn't affect too many vehicles: And nick911 had some testing done on his after experiencing the failure: OP, I would say if you can swing the few extra k for a MY12+, then I doubt anyone's going to fault you for that. They have some nicer additions over the earlier cars, and maybe a bit more peace of mind. Not that the earlier S1s are ticking time bombs just waiting to surprise their owners, but you either put forth a few extra bills up front to get newer gears and a lower potential of a rebuild, or you save those extra
  19. Someone on LT just used some JB Weld and tacked the front corners of the cover down and then placed a weighted object on top. I think that would suffice to hold it down and would easily come undone if the airbag needed to deploy.
  20. If it's just the cable assembly that's bad, an LT member wrote up a how-to on repairing it yourself.
  21. For a more permanent fix, you guys may want to try and source a SCEET neoprene/silicone hose like these. Perfect fit if you get it in 24" length and 2" diameter, and should never crack, flake, collapse, or burst into flames.
  22. Oh, sorry CO, didn't realize that was your car in the above photo. I didn't know you had done the engine bay lighting as well.
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