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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. A fellow LT member did this. @lckitty (if that's the same one). Triggered off the same D11 that the interior mood lighting uses.
  2. I can try and make it easier to understand and provide an up to date parts list if that'll help. It really is only a few wiring connections in the passenger fuse panel area, if you only want to do the first change. For the second part, it requires running a new wire to the passenger B-pillar from the fuse panel area. Nicely done. If you have any words of encouragement or any install notes that could help @Brendonian (and others) that would be great. If there's interest, I can try and source the ICM connectors and build a pass-through harness for plug-n-play. It would make comple
  3. The headlights aren't sealed to be air-tight, so a certain amount of moisture in the air will cause them to mist or show condensation. Some have been successful in reducing this effect with some small silica packets placed in the housing, behind the bulb dust cap. Just make sure they aren't in constant contact with anything that can get really hot.
  4. You may also be getting leaking through the bottom of the door card. Each of those 5 (maybe 6?) fasteners penetrate into the door shell, and is sealed by only a foam insulation tape. Over time the foam tape compresses, and allows water inside the door shell to leak into the interior.
  5. I have a 5-element Difflow on my NA. I think it looks nice, but it does occasionally scrape if you come out of driveways at the wrong angle.
  6. From what I read, they do have oil in them, pre-filled from factory, and not entirely user serviceable. A member on LT with a new 400 had the "snout seal" go bad in the SC and it sprayed oil everywhere.
  7. There's an access hole in the wheel well covers that you can remove and gain access to the bulbs. It's doable with the wheels in-situ, but significantly easier with the wheels off. Thanks for the reminder though; it's been about 18mos since I swapped my bulbs, so I'll give the Night Breaker Ultimates a shot. They seem to get good reviews, but some seem to prefer the Philips Xenon X-treme Vision gen2s.
  8. IIRC, both of those modules require full dash removal to gain access. Aside from the minimal weight, leaving them in-situ and connected doesn't seem to have any side-effects.
  9. Here's a thread and how-to from the other side of the pond.
  10. The BOE has a hose connection on the underside of the elbow, aft of the MAF, fore of the throttle body.
  11. The rear undertray. Forward of the diffuser.
  12. Make sure you're pulling the emergency release cable towards to opposite side of the vehicle, not towards the front or back of the car. If that doesn't work, and your charger isn't working, there is the possibility of unbolting the hatch (hinged side) from under the vehicle if you have some long extensions. The service notes have a procedure to go through the top vents near the hatch lid, but it involves cutting holes in them and then replacing them after the fact.
  13. Deroure seems to suggest there's at least 2 variants of face-level vent carriers. I've only ever seen the bright silver ones, so idk what the other would be.
  14. Not much, as a year+ later and they're still going fine. There is a caveat, which if I could still edit my posts I would add (I'll likely just add as a reply) though; because of how our mirrors are wired, with a common ground between multiple "functions", when you add a fold module like the one I did, it cannot differentiate between folding and trying to perform adjustment operations that share the same common ground. That results in unintended folding while adjusting the mirrors in certain directions. Of course this isn't ideal, and since I couldn't isolate the folding circuit from every
  15. Sounds like the damper is doing what it's supposed to do, but maybe not at the right time. If you haven't already flushed the brake/clutch fluid with high temp, that's a good starting place. If it continues to allow slippage, the valve inside is probably faulty and the damper needs replacing.
  16. Or go with some aftermarket carbon fibre ones. HKFEVER over on LT makes them, and I believe there's some on Elise-Shop as well.
  17. It's likely the steering wheel bushing issue. See this thread for more info.
  18. Sounds like the microswitch in the door latch. I haven't seen mention of any aftermarket parts or original OEM for that latch assembly (switch isn't a separate part #), so most end up replacing the whole thing.
  19. While resistive touchscreens are not as precise as capacitive touchscreens, they're not all crap. The majority of the current Pioneer and Kenwood lines are resistive, with only their upper echelon offerings being capacitive (usually the ones with in-built NAV). I've never experienced the JVC ones though, so I can't speak to how good (or bad) they are. I know I've had some really bad ones in the past, that would go out of alignment after sitting in the warm car for a while.
  20. Both. Most headunits boot to partial or full functionality in under 8 seconds. Android headunits that aren't in sleep mode (e.g. draining your car battery, but slowly) can take upwards of 30 seconds to boot. Some of them will offer radio output before the full boot-up is complete, but only if you leave it on that input prior to shutdown. I liked the non-mainstream stuff too, since the cost was right (about half of the common mfgs), and the flexibility in customization was there. But after all that time, I missed the build quality, mfg support (firmware updates, etc), and sound quality of
  21. Having spent a considerable amount of time using and developing for the Chinese-made Android headunits a few years ago, I can say that they do offer some of the nicest in-car features available that most could want. Unfortunately, like it's been stated above, they're not all held to the same standards as most Japanese-made aftermarket headunits, so build quality is rather hit-or-miss, and integration can be frustrating. Parrot had a good thing going with the Asteroid Smart, but it's been deprecated for some time, and stuck on Android 2.3 last I saw. Long boot-up times (compared to
  22. Center console top and sides will have to be removed. I wrote up a how-to over on LT.
  23. 1) Could be an issue with your Sirius/XM tuner box. IIRC, it's a separate unit connected to the Alpine. 2) There's a reverse cam "box" between the headunit and the camera. It's located near the subwoofer, behind the side panel trim. Might be a loose connection there.
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