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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. I've never seen a cross-reference posted for the window regulators. Based on the failure rates, I doubt they're a Toyota part You could possibly replace just the motor, assuming the cable and pulleys are in working order. Of course that means pulling yours out and figuring out what motor would work as a replacement. That's my plan if/when mine give up the ghost, and I'll be sure to post any x-ref info I stumble across.
  2. And the latest beta now has Android Auto support if you have a headunit that it works with.
  3. I have a Veepeak and it works fine with my S1 and Torque.
  4. I have the one from HethelSport. It's great since the stock one was too large to allow my V1 to sit above it.
  5. The 400s I've seen in person have the newer headlights that don't have the "Lotus" name/logo embossed in the lower corner of the turn signal. I think it's fairly hard to get the original ones with the logo brand new, so you might have to look at 2nd hand options if it matters to you.
  6. Any automotive-grade butyl sealant should work, although if you don't make a huge mess when separating the lens, you shouldn't need any. Just reheat the seam and press the lens onto the housing and the existing goo should be sufficient. It would probably make sense to at least test the turn signal while you have the assembly apart. +12V to red, and one of the black wires is ground (the other is LED failure sensor).
  7. You'll want to remove the headlight assembly, and gently heat the joint where the lens meets the housing using a hair dryer or heat gun on low. Slowly separate the lens while heating and working your way around the perimeter. Once it's off, you can remove the inner fascia/divider, and you'll see the turn signal. The cable is connected from the bottom side, so you'll have to remove the turn signal board in order to work on it. This requires a torx security bit to not only remove the turn signal assembly from the housing, but also to remove the turn signal diffuser from the pcb. Keep in mi
  8. As fate would have it, I had a "need" to buy a whole headlight assembly, mostly for a less scratched lens. Found a good used one on the 'Bay, and was just going to swap it out 1:1 and then sell my original but it turns out the used one has a bad turn signal. Since I was after the lens anyhow, I opted to just swap the lens across, which leaves me with a right-side headlight assembly with a busted turn signal, a slightly scratched (but newly clear-coated!) lens, and a functioning LED disc. Removing the lens from the housing is a fairly simple and easy process, and I think it's probably the
  9. The service notes do make mention of early cars not even having a bushing, so it's possible the steering wheel adapter plate is different as well.
  10. If the battery reset doesn't fix it, it's likely a bad microswitch in your door latch. I have yet to see anyone post a good replacement for the switch itself, as most just replace the entire latch assembly.
  11. You can definitely add the dash button from the MY12+, but the wiring harness is different, so there isn't a connector there to plug in. I believe the MY12+ use this button to connect to the alarm module, which relays the button press to the ICM and then on to the boot release latch.
  12. Idk if the 400 is like the S1, but if you leave the battery disconnected for too long, you may end up with an airbag light that has to be reset by the dealer.
  13. It should be TSB # 2011/11 32.05.21-02 If anyone can produce the actual PDF of that TSB that would be greatly appreciated (I collect them for reference).
  14. Looks right. The new spacer is taller, and as such, makes the steering wheel protrude more. I have a picture of the two side-by-side on my howto. There's like a 5-7mm difference in height. And no, there are no plugs for the T30 holes.
  15. I don't see how it would just fall off since they're mounted from the backside using two bolts. And even then, the top cover snaps firmly over the washer, and has to be removed in order to extract the unit. That being said, I believe they are the same part. I don't recall any orientation-specific differences when I had my headlights out.
  16. Mine is heading to get a full frontal Xpel treatment this weekend. Retail on the bumper and clam+fenders pieces is close to $1400US. Hoping to get out of there under 2K, but we'll see.
  17. Might just be a fuse, although I'm not sure how they would have incorrectly plugged in the connectors since they're keyed and only go together one way.
  18. Or you can do like I did and modify the stock Alpine harness and convert it into a generic ISO harness, so that any future headunits would just need an ISO -> new HU brand adapter.
  19. Are you talking about the LED ring next to the headlight bulb or the turn signal LEDs? The LED rings are known to go out (there's a thread about making replacements), but it seems odd timing. I've had the headlights out in my car many times and never had issues with lights not working when it's refitted.
  20. I think the latch mechanism is wholly contained within the seat back, and isn't really designed to be worked on. I couldn't find any internal diagrams for either the Recaro or Sparco seats.
  21. Yep. Check out this how-to. The fill plug is located on the left front side of the transmission, about 6-8" above where the drain plug is.
  22. Yep, best to do them all at the same time, so it's a single programming session, and to know when to expect to have to do it again.
  23. It's either the front window guide (inside the door) or the cheater seal (triangular seal that fits over mirror mount).
  24. I thought the boot release cable/handle on the 400s was exposed. On the S1, it's under the seat bottom cushion. From the reviews I've seen on the 400s, it's still located in roughly the same location, but visible without removing the cushion. Tucked in there between the cushion and the side panel.
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