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agentdr8

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Everything posted by agentdr8

  1. I think you can mount a front cam without having to remove the clam. Depends on how you want to route the wiring to the headunit (assuming you're using a headunit with multi-cam connectivity). I know I've seen a picture of a front cam mounted at the top of the front grill, but I can't seem to locate that thread.
  2. I've not heard of anyone adding front parking sensors to an Evora. Front camera, yes. As far as I know, there are no speed-based 12V supplies. Most worry about parking initially, until they do it a few times, and then gauge how far to park away from curbs or walls. It becomes rather second nature to park a bit further back in a stall, so I'm not sure how necessary sensors (or even a camera) would be.
  3. It's probably a worn-out detent in the seat rail. Mine does this too, but I haven't had a look at it yet. Some others have reported this on LT, and surmised it could be from the constant back and forth moving of the seat during egress/ingress.
  4. I believe there's someone on the LT forum with the same issue. He had the issue traced to some sort of ABS-related fault, but not one that can be cleared by an OBD2 reader/scanner. Likely something that needs a TechCentre.
  5. The B2 pre-cat sensor can be easily changed from the top, as long as you have an O2 sensor socket handy. It helps to stand/crouch in the boot and sort of lay across the motor.
  6. Hey ID, I have the region 2 DVD (PAL) from Duke. Hit me up on LT for some info.
  7. Just the diagram in the service notes as far as I know. The wiring diagrams are pretty helpful too.
  8. Ok I just went out and did the procedure. Here's the simplified version: First things first, the key in the ignition switch has 3.5 positions, and it makes sense to go over which one is which (as referred to below). - 1) Ignition OFF (key in the most anti-clockwise position) - 2) Accessories (key in, and turned one "click" clockwise) - 3) Ignition ON (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise) - 3.5) Start (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise, and then another half turn clockwise to start the vehicle) With that said, the only positions we're interested in are 1) Off
  9. The process isn't really that difficult. It's all about timing though; counting light flashes to indicate which number is being represented and all that. When I last programmed a fob, it took me about 25 minutes from beginning to end, and that was including starting over a few times. It actually behooves one to be proficient enough at the entry of the security PIN in case your fob dies while you're out and about. It's the only way to disarm the immobilizer so you can start the car. I could paraphrase the procedure and try to make it easier to understand. Give me a bit.
  10. Ah, you mean a replacement fob? That requires the security system PIN, which Lotus should keep on file based on the VIN. Any dealership should be able to provide that data once they've verified ownership.
  11. You can order the blanks from Deroure/B&C, either pre-cut if you supply your key code or un-cut that you can take somewhere to be cut.
  12. I wouldn't think the fuel level sending unit wiring would need to be upgraded. If your goal is to only provide more current to the fuel pump, I'd focus just on its connections.
  13. If the S1s use the same connectors as the 400s, they have an 8-pin connector at the fuel module end. Either Excel or Yazaki. I couldn't find the Excel part #, but the Yazaki shows it's rated for 20A: https://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/servlet/SubServlet_e?forward=7283-5574-10&plist=list&select=XX The fuel pump connector is a 6-pin Tyco/AMP, which can handle between 14awg and 22awg wiring, so it could handle 20A as well if you rewired it: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-184060-1.html https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=sh
  14. The wiring diagrams show 1mm (~18 awg) wiring for most of the fuel pump and inertia switch circuits, except when it goes to the alarm module. 18awg wiring has a typical max current rating of 9.5A, so if you're actually drawing much higher, you'd want to switch to 14awg or larger and use the existing wiring just to trigger a relay like you've indicated. Did you replace R19 with a 20A fuse? If so, that would make sense why the connector wiring burned out instead of popping the stock 10A fuse.
  15. That seems reasonable to tidy up the mesh grills, but I could only imagine how long it would take to actually brush the plastic ducts behind the grills. My rear ducts definitely are faded and could use some renewing, but I haven't bothered to see if they can be pulled out from the wheel wells yet. May tackle that this fall when it isn't so hot in the garage.
  16. Glad to hear you got it sorted. Crap design aside, if you ever have to replace it again, I would highly recommend one of the aftermarket solutions.
  17. The side ducts are bolted to the underside of the rear clam. There isn't a lot of room up under there, so I'm not sure if you can remove them without taking the clam off. I've seen some posts on LT where people have used very small brushes with long handles through the grills. But I can only imagine how tedious that would be.
  18. IIRC, there's a spring inside that pulls it back down. Maybe it's broken. I don't believe there's a separate part # for it, so you'd likely have to replace the whole sprayer assembly.
  19. The release fork is controlled by the release (slave) cylinder. So if it's not moving much when you press the clutch pedal, then something is weird with the hydraulics. If it's moving an appropriate amount but the clutch isn't disengaging, then it could be a bad clutch cover/pressure plate or clutch disc.
  20. Maybe I missed it, but did you change the OE master cylinder for another OE master cylinder, or did you go with one of the aftermarket options?
  21. If the slave isn't connected to the hydraulic line yet, you can push the pin into the body. If it is connected, you could also open the bleeder and lose some fluid while pushing the pin back in. Also, I wanted to mention that one of the members over here recently swapped in the CRT-085 release cylinder, and noted that the pedal pressure was increased, likely due to a smaller diameter bore. Upon more researching, it seems the Toyota Avensis that also used the BG6 transmissions call for the Aisin CRT-087 as a replacement part, which looks exactly like the 085 part externally, but there's a
  22. I only see A132E6085H in the parts diagram for both the NA and S, and it doesn't appear to have been preceded by a different variant. Could be that the early engines that Lotus got from Toyota had the original rubber hose version, and the later engines had the all-metal hoses. I'm assuming if you were to order that part from Lotus today, you'd get the all-metal one, as the parts diagram doesn't list the clamps and rubber hose pieces as separate part #s, like it does in other areas.
  23. It's the exact same part that Toyota uses on those transmissions in other vehicle configurations. When you go to pull the OEM one off, it should have AISIN embossed on the side. Aisin makes quality hydraulics; a lot of master cylinders in Toyota vehicles are theirs as well, and they usually last 100K miles easy. It's a shame Lotus didn't use them for the master; would have avoided a lot of issues that people encounter.
  24. Only 2 bolts hold the slave on, in addition to the hydraulic line. Aisin CRT-085. No need to remove engine, just the rear under tray.
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