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agentdr8

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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. At least here in the states, there are add-on modules like these that can provide that functionality on top of the stock alarm. I don't know of any that have fitted one to the Evora specifically, but I would imagine it not being that difficult. Since it requires another channel from your remote to control the down function, you'd have to repurpose one of the buttons, like the trunk button. 

  2. As far as I know, this is pretty common across all S1 Evoras, and isn't considered an issue. The rubbing seems to mostly happen on full suspension extension, and is minimal enough that I think it would take a very long time for it to rub its way through the arm. It could have been avoided entirely had Lotus just made the cables 1cm longer, but maybe they got in the way of something else? 🤷‍♂️

  3. The cruise connector comes out the same way as the airbag connector; using a small flat blade screwdriver, press the release tab downward (towards the wires) and the connector should be able to come out. It might be somewhat lodged in the socket, so using another small flat blade screwdriver, you can try and leverage the plug out of the socket from the sides. Not a lot of room to get in there though. 

    The other option is to remove those allen bolts holding the wheel to the center mount plate, which will allow you to get a screwdriver between the wheel and mount to get more leverage on that connector from the side. 

  4. The back reservoir is the cooling system header tank. I believe the level when cold should be about 10mm below the seam, and no more than 25mm below the seam. Any more than that and there's the potential for coolant to be expelled when the system is hot, as there's no room left to expand. 

    The front reservoir is for your charge cooler, and its max level is indicated by the line on the RHS. 

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  5. 41 minutes ago, Relic222 said:

    How long ago was this? I've been told by Lotus Silverstone that Lotus currently have a large back order. I've left a message with them, hopefully they'll get back to me.

    It was a few months ago, so it's quite possible that available stock has depleted, and is currently backlogged with the factory. 

  6. There's a small plastic clip on the underside of the door pull mechanism. It rotates anti-clockwise (on LHS, or CW on RHS) if looking from the top of the card down. Rotate the clip, pull the end of the cable out of the mechanism, and then unscrew the retaining nut closest to the mechanism holding the cable onto the latch pull assembly and back the cable out of the mounting hole. 

  7. Short of rewiring the alarm module, there isn't a way to disable the immobilizer. The immobilizer itself is just a fuel and ignition cut-off, so it really shouldn't draw any real power. The microwave sensor, however, does draw a bit of juice when the alarm is set. But the alarm being set and the vehicle being immobilized are two separate states (although it can also be the same state too). 

  8. Based on the bracket, it looks like a condenser (A132E6376S). #33. There should be one per bank.

     

    image.png.00e2a3ddf6a559028e4b2d1346185766.png

     

    Here's a picture of mine on bank 2. Looks like the bolt probably came loose and that's why yours is flapping around. 

    IMG_20201106_153059.jpg.468da37cbd89fea38fa2df7368ad1904.jpg

     

    From what I found, they're noise filtering capacitors (250V, 2.2 uF) to help reduce ignition noise and/or alternator whine that is sometimes picked up by the radio/headunit. Also mentioned in the wiring diagrams as front and rear noise filters:

    condensers.png.5e76567aae09fd7a295167bb6c17f925.png

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  9. Mine also has been running for a while with P0172/P0175 codes. Also replaced all the same things you did, in addition to the pre-cat O2 sensors. Idle is fine, and I don't really notice a huge hit to fuel economy, so I haven't spent too much effort resolving it. I did take it in to my indie shop and had them update the ECU with the latest code, which resolved it temporarily, but it's come back after a few weeks. They did indicate that if the update didn't fix it, it's likely fuel pressure related (which was a bit out of spec). I went ahead and ordered both a replacement fuel rail (comes with the fuel pulse damper that you can't get separately for some reason) and the pressure regulator found at the fuel pump. Haven't had a chance yet to install either (and my next inspection isn't for another 2 years 😂), but will follow-up once I do if this resolves it. 

     

  10. It won't solve the quiescent drain issues completely, but it'll reduce it somewhat. The microwave sensor apparently draws quite a bit of juice, so by leaving the alarm disarmed (or by pressing the fob lock button twice), you at least negate that. But the ECU and other components seem to constantly draw power, so having it on a tender after about a week is probably always going to be a constant. 

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  11. It's been a while since I swapped mine, but if I remember correctly, you compress those blue tabs at the top inward and the lift tube slides upward. You'll also need to remove the ziptie that's keeping the leather boot attached on the underside. In order to do that, you'll want to pull the entire HVAC panel/trim upward. It's held on with half a dozen clips, some of which might come off and fall down into the tunnel. 

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