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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. 2 hours ago, jdfish said:

    Just purchased a 2012 Evora S and want to change the gearbox oil as it's never been done.

    The drain nut is obvious but I'm not so sure about the fill hole.

    Does anyone have pics of the procedure?



    Yep. Check out this how-to. The fill plug is located on the left front side of the transmission, about 6-8" above where the drain plug is. 

  2. I don't recall there being a drain hole in the underside of the clam; there probably should be, but they likely didn't put one there because it could potentially dribble water into the fresh air cabin filter. The HVAC air intake duct sits between the two radiator exhaust vent scoops:

    Here's a pic from when I took the clam off. The hinge area (and where the hole would need to be drilled) is roughly a few cm towards the front of the vehicle from where the cabin air filter is.


    And the intake duct, from Deroure:




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  3. Some have the means and the ability to do that, but others don't, and would rather opt for a drop-in solution. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be an easy way to extract the PCBs in the first place, short of either cutting a hole in the backside, or removing the lens. If/when mine fail, I'll likely just remove the lens, as it's fairly easy and I've done that before, and then just replace all the LEDs at that time. 

    And if no one has yet produced a gerber and/or replacement PCB by then, I'll try and work one out in Eagle. 



    The main problem with this is that you get furnace levels of heat and if you dial it back even a couple of notches it just turns cold.

    It's kind of disheartening (but also somewhat reassuring) to see that not much has changed in the 400's creature comforts vs. the S1. 

    Having just cold or just hot is better than having neither, and you can sort of get a warm mixture by cracking a window and regulating it that way. 

  5. The bushings should be lubricated with a synthetic grease like Superlube or similar. Nothing petroleum based though. It's pretty critical for them too, otherwise they'll make noise and/or wear out faster than they should. 

    This is mentioned in the service notes, but I don't recall it specifying a lubricant. I had to replace my bushings twice, as I didn't lube them the first time and they only lasted about 5000 miles before the clunking came back. Now anytime I have the front undertray off I reapply the Superlube. 

    • Like 1
  6. They may have been worth something back in 2009/10, but by today's standards those Alpine units aren't worth much. The door speakers have rather thin paper cones, the sub not much better. The amp though, surprisingly, is a class D. It only has a 25A fuse, so it can't put out much power. 

    If you plan on getting rid of the Evora in the future, it probably makes sense to hold onto the OEM gear, even if you don't plan on reinstalling it. 

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