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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. I suppose I could always leave it in the ignition to avoid the problem too, but sometimes the key has to be removed and put into my pants pocket. 

    It's definitely not ideal that it's so pricey, but I like the uniqueness of it and the amount of effort @TBD put into designing and producing it, and don't mind supporting a fellow TLF member. To put it into perspective, if this were a 911 key, it would be about $500. Granted, that has a much more finished appearance, and has electronics inside, but it likely cost them less than $20 in parts to make. 

  2. On 2/9/2017 at 03:23, Brendonian said:

    Thanks. That's fantastic. I'm just waiting to see if you can find the wires for the dome light.

    Success! I spent a few hours today installing my amp and subwoofer, and while I had it all apart, I located that dome light purple & white wire, and successfully cabled it up to my 2ch relay module. Now I have dome light fade in/fade out during ingress/egress and mood lighting when headlights are on. I took more pictures and will post them up tomorrow (err, later today); time to get some rest. 

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  3. The newer latch assembly (inteva) should work, but it does away with the door sill button, so you're left with a hole in the door card. 

    The other change is the interior door handle cable exits the latch assembly at a different (lower) point, so you'd likely have to poke a new hole in the foam access hole cover. Or upgrade to the MY12+ plastic covers. 

    And the interior door handle is different, and has a different attachment method on the end of the cable. 

  4. 11 hours ago, TheKevlarKid said:

    While there is talk of heated seating...

    I've made myself some man-cave/gaming furniture from a pair of the recaro sport racer seats. They have the heating elements still in them and I'd like to wire them in to the mains somehow so I can sit with a toasty bum. Anyone know what size of transformer I'd need to power them up? What fuse rating do they have in the car etc. Anyone know??

    12VDC most likely, and capable of providing upwards of 10A (fuse rating). There's also a relay for each seat on the front relay block, but probably not necessary if you're wiring direct using sufficient gauge. Since you're not using the ICM to control when the heaters stay on, you might want to rig some other safety system into place so that they don't get left on inadvertently and melt down your place.

  5. 28 minutes ago, Taylor said:

    AGENTDR8 - This fix you mention, whats the issue it fixes? I have a bit of play in my steering wheel.

    Clunking/popping/clicking noise/feeling in the steering wheel when pushing/pulling forward/backwards and side-to-side (not rotating it). It feels like the steering wheel has excess play and isn't "tight" on the column. 

    See this and this thread for more in-depth info. 

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