agentdr8
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Posts posted by agentdr8
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It's likely the same part as on the S1 Evoras, which is notoriously inaccurate. I've seen temps as high as 124F during the summer, when it was barely 107F outside.
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It's held on by 3 fir tree fasteners, which the upper 2 fit into slotted holes, and the lower 1 is somewhat captive in the trim piece.
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I believe Bilstein also has a rebuild service that they will perform on most OE fitment shocks/struts.
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If the door drains are clear (the long ovalish cutouts at the rear bottom corner of the doors), then it's likely the seal at the bottom of the door that the door card fits over. The 4 or 5 plastic fasteners at the bottom of the door card go through this seal and into the door itself and can leak. I just fixed mine by removing the existing seal (looks like foam weatherstrip) and replaced it with some I had lying around. Pre-punctured the fastener holes and then reassembled and nary a drop now after a thorough all-day soaking from the rain.
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12 minutes ago, Taylor said:
Hi All,
Just wondering if anyone knows where to get black rear light bezel surrounds from?
I currently have the Chrome ones but with the black wrap I'm having done they'll look much better black.
Thanks in advance.
DeRoure has them.
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It's definitely accessible with the front clam off, but without going to that extreme, you can probably get by with just the left side wheel and arch liner. I'm not sure it would ease the job if the undertray is off, as the hose gets mounted up pretty high.
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Definitely better than the stock one, but over here, it reminds me of a clothes dryer vent hose...
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After disassembling the front end of my car to replace the clutch master cylinder, it became apparent that Lotus just wants people to believe working on these cars is somehow more complex than any other vehicle. Or maybe that's just what most people familiar with Lotus want to believe based on the book hours for most jobs.
I would have been thrilled if I could have removed a "rear clam" on my mk2 MR-2 when I had to repair/replace the crankshaft pulley and front seals. Having to stand inside a trunk and lean over a motor made for a really achy back.
If/when it's clutch changing time I'm sure it won't be a simple job compared to your standard FR car, but I'll save a boatload on labor.
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I had my starter rebuilt locally, but someone on LT wrote up a good howto.
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The endlinks for the ARB can get worn over time too. I plan on replacing mine in the spring with aftermarket ones (the stock Lotus ones are hard to come by apparently).
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11 hours ago, ajheath said:
Dave, did you manage to get them sprayed in the end and how did they turn out?
I did, but need to redo them when it's warmer. I was rather rushed in my prep, and ended up sanding too deeply into the plastic, so there's some circular scuffs that the clear didn't fill properly.
While they don't look perfect, it's definitely an improvement over the peeling look, so it's fine until the spring.
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3 hours ago, Miguel said:
Hi Mark, messaged you, but yes I have more available.
I'd be interested in a set too if you ship to the US.
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The stalling isn't overly common, but it does seem to happen to some. Try cleaning the MAF with MAF-specific cleaner, and the throttle body electrical connections with contact cleaner.
Not sure about the stuck 5th gear though. Could be mechanical issue, or possibly clutch/hydraulic related.
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I believe it was the previous episode (or maybe 2 before?). Either way, I did this work this weekend, so to describe the steps:
- Get front end of car in the air
- Remove front wheels
- Remove wheel well liners
- Unplug headlamp connector
- Unfasten headlamp bolts (3x; 1 at the very front, 2 at the rear)
- Unfasten the headlamp washer hose (has a quick-release fitting; just press in on the knurled part and pull)
- Unfasten the rear headlamp bracket (2x bolts/nuts)
- Withdraw headlamp towards rear of car, rotating as needed to extract
Unfortunately for me, the weather took a turn for the worse, and the temps and humidity were too far off to get a good application of 2k clear, so I'll probably wait until it warms up to try again.
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Check out the B is for Build videos on Youtube. Chris recently had an episode where he refurbished the headlights, and it shows the installation and removal steps, in addition to the sanding and respraying.
I'm off to get the supplies to do this as well.
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William48151623 over on LT is trying to compile this data based on Certificate of Provenance info. You should definitely look into getting yours if you're looking for info specific to your individual vehicle.
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If you plan on adjusting it at the lever end, you'll likely have to remove the center console top and side trims. I suppose you could get away with removing just one side. Either way, removing the seat(s) makes this process much easier.
It's not too hard or time-consuming to do; I wrote a quick how-to a while back.
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The ebrake cable exits near the front of rear undertray, and splits into separate directions for each rear wheel. I believe it can be adjusted there, and also at each individual wheel through an access hole.
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Yep, my 11 came with the trim broken. The replacement part # is A132V0071F. Keep in mind that it's just the plastic piece; the leather boot is clipped & glued to it from the underside.
Since the OEM leather boot is like $200, and that was the cause of the broken trim (it shrunk), I opted to take the trim to a local upholstery shop and have them replicate the boot, but with more room so a slight amount of shrinkage wouldn't result in the same damage.
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8 hours ago, PaulCP said:
I did try a search but nothing came up.
I think this is the thread I was thinking of.
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I'm positive I've seen posts here about that issue before. I think it came down to TADTS.
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4 hours ago, jevansio said:
Is it just me, I wouldnt trust myself to open up a seatbelt then put my life on it?
I'd equate it with people doing their own brake jobs. If you flub that, you're likely to get equally injured/dead.
Had he been taking apart the airbags to try and salvage/refurb them... that's something I would never consider doing.
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I'm sure any silicone or rubber hose with the same ID should suffice. Might want to make sure it's extra flexible if there's intricate bends in the normal routing.
If you're dead-set on getting a hose that looks fairly OEM, you could try Alibaba and take some measurements from the existing one. That vendor's MOQ is a single piece.
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Lol, you're right. Prior to any review videos of the US 400, nobody could answer that question for me definitively.
Don't mind me, I'm just being daft.
New steering wheel!
in Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC/Other
Posted
If you have a pre-MY12, then you likely need the updated wheel spacer. See this howto I posted over on LT.