free hit
counters
agentdr8's Content - Page 13 - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


agentdr8

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. 8 hours ago, Hedgehogfromhell said:

    I've got an issue with my cruise control turning off, which is going back into Silverstone for when i can get work to nail down time for me to actually be let off work. 

    Not to totally go OT, but I think this is usually a bad clutch position sensor, or it needs adjustment. 

    • Like 1
  2. Daniel,

    I too was concerned about reliability and cost of ownership when I picked up my 11 in March. But my researched uncovered what you're likely finding; the powertrain is solid, and rarely an issue with these cars. Maintenance items are rather average in price, and if you dig deep enough, you can find quite a few OEM parts from the vehicles they were originally designed for (Ford, Jag, Chevy, Toyota, etc) at a much better price than the Lotus-branded ones.

    I would think the most expensive items on these cars would be body-related. Even if you had to do the clutch, the parts aren't overly expensive, it's the labor for removing the rear clam and pulling the engine/trans out. If you're mechanically-inclined, it could be done solo or with a friend for a few cases of beer and some pizzas ;)

    If you're on Lotus Talk, I know there's a few members on there from the Texas area that are also Evora owners. 

  3. @bernico 19s

    I don't think there's been any mention of the transmissions not lasting over 14k miles. I'm fairly certain there's an individual on LT that has over 60k miles without any tranny issues (and original clutch too, iirc). 

    If I had to wager a guess, I'd say maybe your synchros have failed. You shouldn't need a whole new transmission, unless it some how grenaded itself from loose bits flying around. 

  4. 4 hours ago, Brendonian said:

    Has anybody replaced the front intake blanking plates on an early Evora with the proper open ducts from later cars? I expect they would help a little with brake cooling.

    Despite my steady laps at the Nurburgring last weekend, my brakes were definitely feeling the heat. Also, I've never been keen on 'fake' intakes on cars.

    I've been looking at the parts on the DeRoure site, but it's not 100% clear which parts are required to fit them on an early car. I know new wheel arch liners are required, as they include slots for air flow.

    If you have a MY10-11, they changed the duct design from the MY12+, and the whole front bumper would have to be replaced (or the MY12 ducts would have to be modified). 

    Might be easier to just switch pads/rotors to help stave off the fade. 

     

    vents.png

    vent2.png

    • Like 1
  5. 3 hours ago, gregs24 said:

    My door is not compatible - it has a rolling code so although the homelink can link to it, it can't do anything as the rolling code changes at once. Shame but that is the way it is with some doors.

    Not sure what sort of GDOs you guys have over there, but if they're like our rolling code ones that utilize Security+, Homelink has these compatibility bridges that basically take the old-school Homelink signal from your vehicle and converts it to a more modern signal for your opener. 

  6. 2 hours ago, Danelaw said:

    The second reason for my post as the last few hours of picking at my front bumper has had me looking at the panel gap between the bumper and the front clam. It looks to me like it might be better if I adjust my front bumper up just a little. It's not bad, but not perfect, and I'd like to just close the gap a little.

    I've looked at the instructions in the workshop manual for the removal of the front bumper, and they include removing the headlamp units. My question is whether a small adjustment can be achieved without that much hassle/effort? 

    I received my second-hand Evora with a slightly mis-aligned front bumper cover. Had a local body shop work with the dealer to fix it (at their cost), but it turns out the previous owner had some poor repairs done on the back-side of the cover, which caused it to sag in the middle. It was also missing the impact foam that is normally behind that part of the bumper.

    I had a chance to look at the front end while it was all taken apart, and I think the service notes are correct; if you want to adjust vertical alignment between the front edge of the clam and the top/trailing edge of the bumper, it's best to have the headlights out. It isn't that hard to remove the headlamp housings (3 bolts IIRC). Hopefully you'll have an easier time lining it up. Because of the somewhat shoddy repair, mine won't align properly, and the dealer wasn't willing to pay for a complete MY12 bumper retrofit.

    On the topic of PPFs...my factory Star Shield is starting to look faded/orange peel-ish compared to the rest of the car, so I'll likely have all of the original bits removed, and the whole front end done in Xpel. There's a local guy that specializes in it, and by doing the whole clam, it makes that hideous seam disappear. 

  7. 5 hours ago, ramjet said:

    I thought there was a topic on here about being able to make the Evora mirrors fold by the replacement of the mirror switch as all the wiring was already there?

    I have the replacement switch, which gives one manual control over the power folding. This thread is about automatic folding of the mirrors, which isn't possible with just the switch change.

    Now that I think about it, the switch doesn't even need to be swapped out to utilize the auto-fold module, but it does give you manual control over the power folding. 

  8. This post may be a bit "late to the party", but I'll be integrating a power mirror auto-fold module into my 11 Evora next week. I've already found the wires needed for this, and will likely write up a quick "how to" and post it over on LT. 

    These modules can be found on eBay/Amazon for very little coin, and basically have a few relays that provide power to either side of the mirror fold circuit (for a few seconds) depending on door lock signals. I plan on wiring mine to fold the mirrors when the doors are locked (via fob), and unfold when the ignition is hot. Having the mirrors unfold on every door unlock would unnecessarily wear the motors, but it's also an available configuration.

×
×
  • Create New...