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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. I've not heard of anyone adding front parking sensors to an Evora. Front camera, yes. 

    As far as I know, there are no speed-based 12V supplies. Most worry about parking initially, until they do it a few times, and then gauge how far to park away from curbs or walls. It becomes rather second nature to park a bit further back in a stall, so I'm not sure how necessary sensors (or even a camera) would be. 

  2. Ok I just went out and did the procedure. Here's the simplified version:

    First things first, the key in the ignition switch has 3.5 positions, and it makes sense to go over which one is which (as referred to below). 

    - 1) Ignition OFF (key in the most anti-clockwise position)
    - 2) Accessories (key in, and turned one "click" clockwise)
    - 3) Ignition ON (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise)
    - 3.5) Start (key in, and turned two "clicks" clockwise, and then another half turn clockwise to start the vehicle)

    With that said, the only positions we're interested in are 1) Off and 3) On.

    - With immobilizer enabled (red oval in the middle of speedo will be blinking) and alarm disarmed, insert key and turn On. Then within 10 seconds, turn key Off.
    - The immobilizer LED will now be blinking faster, and you'll want to count these blinks. Each blink is equal to one digit, so if you see 5 blinks, you're at number 5. 10 blinks is a zero. See example below.
    - As soon as the first number of your PIN is counted in blinks, quickly turn the key to the On position, then back Off. 
    - The LED will continue its fast blinking, and you'll count out the blinks to the 2nd number of your PIN. Once at the 2nd number, quickly turn key to On, then back Off. 
    - Repeat the above step to completely enter your PIN. If successful, your alarm might chirp, and the immobilizer should be disabled. 
    - If programming fobs, continue to enter in 2 additional digits after your PIN using the above process. Those 2 digits should be 1, 1. Upon entering the final "1", leave the ignition in the On position.
    - Within 8 seconds, press any button on the new fob to be programmed. The immobilizer LED should pulse and you may get an alarm chirp. 
    - If programming more remotes, press any button on them within 10 seconds, and repeat. 
    - When finished, either turn ignition to Off, or wait 10 seconds with no additional button presses. 

    I drew up a quick ASCII art example of entering the number 5:



  3. The process isn't really that difficult. It's all about timing though; counting light flashes to indicate which number is being represented and all that. 

    When I last programmed a fob, it took me about 25 minutes from beginning to end, and that was including starting over a few times. 

    It actually behooves one to be proficient enough at the entry of the security PIN in case your fob dies while you're out and about. It's the only way to disarm the immobilizer so you can start the car. 

    I could paraphrase the procedure and try to make it easier to understand. Give me a bit. 

  4. If the S1s use the same connectors as the 400s, they have an 8-pin connector at the fuel module end. Either Excel or Yazaki. I couldn't find the Excel part #, but the Yazaki shows it's rated for 20A:

    The fuel pump connector is a 6-pin Tyco/AMP, which can handle between 14awg and 22awg wiring, so it could handle 20A as well if you rewired it:

    The inertia switch connector is a 3-pin Tyco/AMP Econoseal, which can handle wire sizes from .2mm to 2.0mm, so it's 20A capable as well:

    You should be able to build a relay harness using stock connectors and upgraded wiring. 

  5. The wiring diagrams show 1mm (~18 awg) wiring for most of the fuel pump and inertia switch circuits, except when it goes to the alarm module. 18awg wiring has a typical max current rating of 9.5A, so if you're actually drawing much higher, you'd want to switch to 14awg or larger and use the existing wiring just to trigger a relay like you've indicated. Did you replace R19 with a 20A fuse? If so, that would make sense why the connector wiring burned out instead of popping the stock 10A fuse. 




  6. If the slave isn't connected to the hydraulic line yet, you can push the pin into the body. If it is connected, you could also open the bleeder and lose some fluid while pushing the pin back in. 

    Also, I wanted to mention that one of the members over here recently swapped in the CRT-085 release cylinder, and noted that the pedal pressure was increased, likely due to a smaller diameter bore. Upon more researching, it seems the Toyota Avensis that also used the BG6 transmissions call for the Aisin CRT-087 as a replacement part, which looks exactly like the 085 part externally, but there's a good chance the bore is slightly increased (20.55mm on the 085, probably closer to ~22mm on the 087 I'm guessing). 

    Of course the Avensis wasn't sold here in the States, so in order to thoroughly put this replacement part hunt to bed, I've ordered one from Latvia and will compare the OE one to the 087 part once it arrives. 

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  7. I only see A132E6085H in the parts diagram for both the NA and S, and it doesn't appear to have been preceded by a different variant. Could be that the early engines that Lotus got from Toyota had the original rubber hose version, and the later engines had the all-metal hoses. 

    I'm assuming if you were to order that part from Lotus today, you'd get the all-metal one, as the parts diagram doesn't list the clamps and rubber hose pieces as separate part #s, like it does in other areas. 

  8. It's the exact same part that Toyota uses on those transmissions in other vehicle configurations. When you go to pull the OEM one off, it should have AISIN embossed on the side.

    Aisin makes quality hydraulics; a lot of master cylinders in Toyota vehicles are theirs as well, and they usually last 100K miles easy. It's a shame Lotus didn't use them for the master; would have avoided a lot of issues that people encounter. 

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