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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. Continental does have the Gatorback (now called the Elite) belts for the NA 2GR-FE, but not the S. They do offer their standard OE Multi-V belt in that size though (4071130). 

    From what I could find, it seems they're transitioning their Elite line back to a straight ribbed design. Not sure why, as I always thought the Veyance design was better, and one of the reasons for acquiring them. 


  2. Assuming you found the ICM, the output from C9 to RC1 on the EMS ECU seem to pass through. No indication of what level of signal is being passed. Some ICM outputs are grounds, some are +12V. Testing it with a voltmeter should be relatively safe; with the A/C switch on, if you have your black probe on a body ground, and your red probe on C9 and no voltage is shown, then it's likely a ground output. Switching to continuity test, once the A/C switch is turned it, if it's a ground output it should beep. Conversely, if it's a +12V output, you should see that indicated on the first test, and there'd be no need to test continuity. If you want to remove the trinary switch from the equation, you can just put a jumper on the harness side pins for that connector. 

    One thing to note; your green box is only half-correct. It actually should encompass the "TRINARY SW COOLING FAN" beneath it, as that's all one unit (a binary pressure switch + a unary fan switch == trinary switch). There's actually 2 separate connectors for the different "sides" of the switch within the unit. Here's a picture of one I found for our cars: 


    Since Lotus updated the part number, it looks like they may have also updated the wiring colors from what's stated in the wiring diagrams. Might have to figure out which connector is which by pulling the front right wheel well cover. 

  3. I don't think there's a troubleshooting guide in the service notes, but I would check these in this order:

    - Fuses (C28, R11)
    - Refrigerant fill/pressures (if good, issue is likely related to electronics; if bad, likely a leak)
    - If leak, refill w/ UV dye and find/fix leak(s)
    - If not leak, check compressor, clutch, trinary switch
    - Rinse/repeat until working again

    • Like 1
  4. 4 hours ago, Bibs said:

    I'm not sure that's the case. It cuts the cruise control certainly but that's pretty much all it's there for.

    The service notes indicate that the clutch sensor switch is also used to briefly cut fuel between shifts. 


    I replaced mine a few years ago when I was encountering stalling issues when slowing to a stop. Even though it wasn't throwing any clutch sensor-related codes, it seemed to clear up that issue. 

  5. 2 hours ago, Hangar 111 said:

    I've not looked at the Toyota service bulletin, but the oil cooler hoses are flexible for a reason - they go between engine and chassis, which move relative to each other.

    From what I can see on the videos, that setup is different to the Lotus, that looks like a heat exchanger setup, whereas the Lotus have an air oil cooler at the front of the vehicle.   I'd double-check what you've got, with what you've ordered there...

    I have never personally seen one fail on a Lotus (as yet).


    Apparently later in the model years, Lotus used the all-metal oil cooler feed/return pipes. In the thread I had started on LT, Julian had posted a picture of his 12S heat exchanger housing with the metal pipes. 

    The oil lines that head towards the front of the car should remain flexible (#7 and #8 below), and I believe those are the ones that were covered under a Lotus recall. I believe those are also only present on S cars. 


  6. If it's the turn signal PCB itself, then you'll have to remove the headlight assembly and open it up to determine if there's an issue.

    On the spare assembly I had purchased off ebay, I found the PCB power connector had come partially undone from its solder pads. It could be a similar failure in yours. If you plan on fixing it yourself, you'll probably want to drill out the rivets holding the heatsink to the PCB, and remove it. Then heat up the backside of the PCB (aluminum-backed) on a hot-plate or with a heat gun/hair drier, then try and repair the connector. 

    • Like 1
  7. Strange coincidence that another one of these has been reported recently. I just repaired mine in Jan, and someone on the FB group is going through it now as well. 

    Something in the early non-Inteva latch release mechanisms bind as they age, and it results in neither of the handles working to open the door. 

    You can fix this yourself if you're handy, but it requires removing the 2 door striker bolts from the inside of the car. I posted a how-to over on LT:

    Give me a few to fix it; the mods deleted the wrong duplicate post which had all the info, and I have to recreate it in the second post. 

    • Like 2
  8. Here's a thread over on LT that goes into depth on the window regulators. Unfortunately, they're fairly specific (electronics-wise) to our cars, even though the regulator/motor assembly can be found in various other vehicles. 

    The end-result is that no cross-reference parts have been found (yet), but there's the potential to make a wiring harness that would allow the regulators from Seat vehicles to work in our cars. Not sure what the progress is on that currently though.

    • Like 1
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