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agentdr8

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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. 8 hours ago, Akajak said:

    had a replacement belt (gator type), just trying to find out possible causes of squealing on start up when car is dry and garaged. Does a pulley cause squealing ? As you say the car isn't old, I guess I was just trying to establish if the squeal is curable or is it something which you have to live with. Thanks.

    The idler pulleys have bearings in them that can sometimes lock up and cause a squeal. This is especially true with the Toyota 3.5 V6, which had a few different TSBs over the years addressing such issue (at least in the Toyota applications). 

    Not saying this is definitely the cause of your particular squeal, but it's one of the many things that can. Some others being bad water pump seal, bad A/C compressor clutch, bad alternator, bad PS pump, bad belt tensioner, or it could not be a squeal at all, and it could be a harmonic noise that's occurring due to rubbing of metal on metal. 

    I fought with a squeal for almost a year, replacing everything that turned, and I finally found that it was a broken exhaust mounting tab that was rubbing. 

  2. 41 minutes ago, LotusFella said:

    Original Alpine yes.  Doesn’t seem to want to come off.  Are you sure it’s just clipped in?

    Yep, if it's never been removed, then it should have 4x really tight spring clips holding the facia on.  Some people remove one of the clips after removing this panel the first time to make subsequent removals easier. 

    Here's some pictures of that panel, and the areas which you need to tug. 

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, Scotsdave said:

    Thanks for the replies guys, @agentdr8 no its RHD 

    3 Months to get a new master cylinder sounds fun.

    Ok thanks. There was some speculation that the master cylinder placement in relationship to the coolant lines was a contributor to failures, which seem more prevalent in LHD cars vs the RHD ones. 

    Since you're out of warranty, I strongly suggest you go with an aftermarket m/c, either Wilwood or Tilton. Either can be had in a week or so, and will outlast any replacement Lotus m/c. Plus both are rebuildable from the interior. 

  4. 18 minutes ago, Julian73 said:

    As to your original question I enclose an ECU pin out, this is found in the Lotus wiring diagram service notes, not the electrical diagnostic section.

    Lotus ECU Pin Output.docx 3.36 MB · 1 download

    I wish Lotus had created a nice pin out like that for the S1 Evoras. I'm sure most of it is still applicable though. They also didn't have a connector description list like they do on the 400s. 

  5. I would never put the OEM master cylinder back into my car, regardless of it's the original metal one, or the allegedly better-designed plastic one. They're both non-rebuildable and prone to failure. 

    Either the BOE unit Chad mentioned above (made by Tilton Engineering) or the one that GRP & MWR sells (made by Wilwood Engineering). Both mfgs are well-known and respected for making quality automotive hydraulics. 

  6. How would a different ECU have the same serial as another car?

    As long as the base options are set in the ECU (trans type, cluster arrangement, etc) and match the vehicle it's plugged into it should at least start. From what I see on the parts list, there's only a single ECU part # for both NA and S cars, but it comes uncalibrated, and requires that a proper variant code be entered in TechCentre and program file (.CRP) in order to set all the options correctly. 

    The service notes state: Care point, please also see Lotus Technical Service Bulletin TSB 2012/17 for important information relating to variant coding.

  7. 10 hours ago, Duck said:

    OK , is it a bank holiday tomorrow or something , but thanks for the note , do you think they will also be able to provide a electrical pin up diagram for the ECU .

    The service notes have some of this information, but there's no page that lists what each pin does. You have to decipher that through the wiring diagrams for each electrical system, as indicated in the graphic:

     

    ecu.PNG

  8. If it's just the LCD screen that you need, I have the ones out of my car that I'm not using. I had purchased one of those KPH units from Motorsport Auctions in order to disect for my anti-red backlight mod, and ended up swapping the LCD screens over to my cluster since they're matte instead of glossy. But to swap it out  you'd need to remove the gauge cluster and separate the halves. 

    It's also possible that the ribbon cable is just slightly misaligned, and is preventing that area from drawing pixels. But that too would require you to remove the cluster and open to inspect. 

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