agentdr8
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Posts posted by agentdr8
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8 hours ago, Akajak said:
had a replacement belt (gator type), just trying to find out possible causes of squealing on start up when car is dry and garaged. Does a pulley cause squealing ? As you say the car isn't old, I guess I was just trying to establish if the squeal is curable or is it something which you have to live with. Thanks.
The idler pulleys have bearings in them that can sometimes lock up and cause a squeal. This is especially true with the Toyota 3.5 V6, which had a few different TSBs over the years addressing such issue (at least in the Toyota applications).
Not saying this is definitely the cause of your particular squeal, but it's one of the many things that can. Some others being bad water pump seal, bad A/C compressor clutch, bad alternator, bad PS pump, bad belt tensioner, or it could not be a squeal at all, and it could be a harmonic noise that's occurring due to rubbing of metal on metal.
I fought with a squeal for almost a year, replacing everything that turned, and I finally found that it was a broken exhaust mounting tab that was rubbing.
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From what I can see in the parts diagrams, it looks like they came be removed separately from the dash.
I've never tried to remove them though, so let us know if you manage it.
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And some of those LEDs are controlled by the dimmer button on the dash, so you may want to cycle it a few times to see if that makes a difference.
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I posted this one over on LT. It's specifically on an NA, but the S is the same procedure, just with a longer belt.
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The S1s also have a clutch damper (A132Q0021F).
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41 minutes ago, LotusFella said:
Original Alpine yes. Doesn’t seem to want to come off. Are you sure it’s just clipped in?
Yep, if it's never been removed, then it should have 4x really tight spring clips holding the facia on. Some people remove one of the clips after removing this panel the first time to make subsequent removals easier.
Here's some pictures of that panel, and the areas which you need to tug.
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There's the fuel shut-off that could trip if the car was tilted too much in either direction. Not specifically an anti-jacking component, but I could see having to push the reset on that under some circumstances.
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Nope. Both can be rebuilt from the pedal-side, and both brands are highly regarded for making quality hydraulics. Comes down to availability/price, and if you have a preference.
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1 hour ago, Scotsdave said:
Thanks for the replies guys, @agentdr8 no its RHD
3 Months to get a new master cylinder sounds fun.
Ok thanks. There was some speculation that the master cylinder placement in relationship to the coolant lines was a contributor to failures, which seem more prevalent in LHD cars vs the RHD ones.
Since you're out of warranty, I strongly suggest you go with an aftermarket m/c, either Wilwood or Tilton. Either can be had in a week or so, and will outlast any replacement Lotus m/c. Plus both are rebuildable from the interior.
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Don't worry, it happens to the earlier metal master cylinders too. Replaced mine at ~27k with a Wilwood and haven't had issue since.
Curious to know, is your car a LHD by chance @Scotsdave?
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It's "other". I believe someone found a matching part for a tractor, but the cost and availability is about the same as direct from Lotus.
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The wheels are hub-centric, so you could replace one at a time without having to lift the wheels.
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Deroure is showing part # A132G0047F for the security bolt kit, so I'm assuming it comes with matching bolts.
Not sure if they're all keyed the same. I've never actually seen any Evoras with security bolts.
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18 minutes ago, Julian73 said:
As to your original question I enclose an ECU pin out, this is found in the Lotus wiring diagram service notes, not the electrical diagnostic section.
I wish Lotus had created a nice pin out like that for the S1 Evoras. I'm sure most of it is still applicable though. They also didn't have a connector description list like they do on the 400s.
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I would never put the OEM master cylinder back into my car, regardless of it's the original metal one, or the allegedly better-designed plastic one. They're both non-rebuildable and prone to failure.
Either the BOE unit Chad mentioned above (made by Tilton Engineering) or the one that GRP & MWR sells (made by Wilwood Engineering). Both mfgs are well-known and respected for making quality automotive hydraulics.
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2 hours ago, Duck said:
Dave , does the 2010 Evora have a Exhaust bypass valve .
It should not.
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9 hours ago, Duck said:
So its best not to trigger enable the cluth sensor
Sure, as long as the car is in neutral.
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1 hour ago, Duck said:
Dave , on a manual Evora , do you have to put your foot on clutch for to start .
Nope. ECU doesn't care if clutch position sensor is triggered or not when starting. At least not on my 11.
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Jump starting has been known to fry Evora ECUs before. There's a few threads over on LT about it. Here's one of them.
The end result is usually having to procure a new ECU.
Are you getting a COMMS FAILURE error on the dash screen?
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I believe so, as long as the variant code is similar enough to the options/equipment your car has.
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How would a different ECU have the same serial as another car?
As long as the base options are set in the ECU (trans type, cluster arrangement, etc) and match the vehicle it's plugged into it should at least start. From what I see on the parts list, there's only a single ECU part # for both NA and S cars, but it comes uncalibrated, and requires that a proper variant code be entered in TechCentre and program file (.CRP) in order to set all the options correctly.
The service notes state: Care point, please also see Lotus Technical Service Bulletin TSB 2012/17 for important information relating to variant coding.
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10 hours ago, Duck said:
OK , is it a bank holiday tomorrow or something , but thanks for the note , do you think they will also be able to provide a electrical pin up diagram for the ECU .
The service notes have some of this information, but there's no page that lists what each pin does. You have to decipher that through the wiring diagrams for each electrical system, as indicated in the graphic:
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If it's just the LCD screen that you need, I have the ones out of my car that I'm not using. I had purchased one of those KPH units from Motorsport Auctions in order to disect for my anti-red backlight mod, and ended up swapping the LCD screens over to my cluster since they're matte instead of glossy. But to swap it out you'd need to remove the gauge cluster and separate the halves.
It's also possible that the ribbon cable is just slightly misaligned, and is preventing that area from drawing pixels. But that too would require you to remove the cluster and open to inspect.
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Could be bad audio processor, or bad pre-outs, or bad wiring. The amp is located in the rear of the car, behind the b-pillar cover on the RHS, above the subwoofer.
Engine check light code
in Engine & Ancilliaries/Gearbox
Posted
While that aftermarket O2 sensor may work, you might have better luck using an OEM Bosch.
They're available under all these different part #s:
Bosch 0258006127
Bosch MHK 100840
Lotus A117E6007F
Denso DOX-2017
Rover MHK 1008 40L