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agentdr8

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Posts posted by agentdr8

  1. 4 hours ago, dalepearson said:

    I didnt see the point of spending £100+ or something I might never use.

    The offset being that most dealers here in the states want anywhere from $100-$300 just to reset the airbag light. I'd much rather have a tool I'd only use once, but could use in the future, instead of paying the dealer one time for this service. Plus you can always resell the tool at a slight loss if you really want to minimize costs or tool clutter. 

  2. 4 hours ago, sellman said:

    I thought this issue was only on models sold with the optional close ratio gearbox??? 🙄

    West-of-Hethel on LT had this happen, and found out it shouldn't affect too many vehicles:

    Quote
    Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and might not have this issue, I believe. If I'm correct about that, then it's probably only model years 2010 and 2011 that are affected. "Regular" Aisin gearboxes (the ones with the intergalactic ratios, which I think were only available in the US in 2011-12) and IPS are not at risk.

    And nick911 had some testing done on his after experiencing the failure:

    Quote

    Hi Guys,
    I've taken the guess work out of the 4th 5th gear failure, I had the dreaded failure at 34k on my 2010 N/A Evora with sport option gearbox. I replaced the box but had the original disassembled and inspected, everything in the box was perfect except the fourth gear splines had rounded off, and the gear was spinning on the shaft. Hardness testing was carried out which clearly showed the gear had been reworked after hardening, it was measured at 40 -42 HRc with the gear itself measuring a harness of 60 - 61 HRc. We strongly suspect the gear was made in error with the smaller spline of the 5th gear, then reworked to the larger 4th gear spline and not retreated.
    I personally feel pretty aggrieved at this as Lotus are denying the issue exists, in my opinion this could be a killer, when my 4th gear failed I was overtaking and lost drive, luckily I had time to react and deal with the situation, others may not have the same reactions and time to deal with this, and have a head on crash.

    OP, I would say if you can swing the few extra k for a MY12+, then I doubt anyone's going to fault you for that. They have some nicer additions over the earlier cars, and maybe a bit more peace of mind. Not that the earlier S1s are ticking time bombs just waiting to surprise their owners, but you either put forth a few extra bills up front to get newer gears and a lower potential of a rebuild, or you save those extra bills on the off-chance it happens to an earlier S1. 

  3. 52 minutes ago, Brendonian said:

    I'm afraid I still haven't tried it. I was really busy when @agentdr8 wrote his guide, then when I finally got around to looking into it, I found I didn't really quite understand it :(

    I can try and make it easier to understand and provide an up to date parts list if that'll help. It really is only a few wiring connections in the passenger fuse panel area, if you only want to do the first change. For the second part, it requires running a new wire to the passenger B-pillar from the fuse panel area. 

    1 minute ago, sellman said:

    I actually only carried out the first stage of the wiring so when I switch my headlights on the interior light comes on if in the on position. However I allways have mine swichted to off anyhow as on entry the footwell lights light the way so it doesn't bug me. 

     

    Nicely done. If you have any words of encouragement or any install notes that could help @Brendonian (and others) that would be great. 

    If there's interest, I can try and source the ICM connectors and build a pass-through harness for plug-n-play. It would make completing the first part super easy, with the 2nd part being just that wire run and pin removal. 

    • Like 2
  4. There's an access hole in the wheel well covers that you can remove and gain access to the bulbs. It's doable with the wheels in-situ, but significantly easier with the wheels off. 

    Thanks for the reminder though; it's been about 18mos since I swapped my bulbs, so I'll give the Night Breaker Ultimates a shot. They seem to get good reviews, but some seem to prefer the Philips Xenon X-treme Vision gen2s. 

  5. Make sure you're pulling the emergency release cable towards to opposite side of the vehicle, not towards the front or back of the car. 

    If that doesn't work, and your charger isn't working, there is the possibility of unbolting the hatch (hinged side) from under the vehicle if you have some long extensions. 

    The service notes have a procedure to go through the top vents near the hatch lid, but it involves cutting holes in them and then replacing them after the fact. 

  6. 5 hours ago, DrRick said:

    For my next trick, I shall be attempting to follow the instructions in THIS THREAD and making the mirrors fold / unfold on the keyfob.

    What could possibly go wrong?!?

    Not much, as a year+ later and they're still going fine.

    There is a caveat, which if I could still edit my posts I would add (I'll likely just add as a reply) though; because of how our mirrors are wired, with a common ground between multiple "functions", when you add a fold module like the one I did, it cannot differentiate between folding and trying to perform adjustment operations that share the same common ground. That results in unintended folding while adjusting the mirrors in certain directions. Of course this isn't ideal, and since I couldn't isolate the folding circuit from everything else, the next best option for me was to install a small microswitch between the folding module's output and the rest of the wiring for the "fold" operation. This allows me to break that connection and adjust mirrors without them folding, and then I put the switch back and it's in "normal" operation mode. 

    I spent a quite a bit of time thinking of alternatives that would be less "hackish", and the only thing I could come up with is a dual-timer 12V relay module, which could apply 12V to the fold/unfold circuit on door lock/unlock signal. The problem I ran into with this idea is that the wires for door lock/unlock via the fob are the same ones used by the interior CDL button, and since the relay module would be powered at all times (otherwise it would never unfold mirrors on unlock), it could fold/unfold mirrors while the vehicle's in motion. 

    So at the end of all this long-winded post, the end result is that the folding module is still in place, my microswitch "bypass" works well enough for the 0-1 times I adjust the mirrors during the year, and for the other 99.99% of the time, it works flawlessly. 

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