agentdr8
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Posts posted by agentdr8
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It's likely the steering wheel bushing issue. See this thread for more info.
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Sounds like the microswitch in the door latch. I haven't seen mention of any aftermarket parts or original OEM for that latch assembly (switch isn't a separate part #), so most end up replacing the whole thing.
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2 hours ago, Vulcan Grey said:
the JVC uses a resistive touch screen... Horrible feel! I often borrow a friend's truck with a JVC with a resistive screen that does MirrorLink with Andorid... can't even get it to change the song 10% of the time, and the screen is always so dusty and impossible to see.
The Pioneer Appradio4 does have a glass capacitive screen, which works very well!
While resistive touchscreens are not as precise as capacitive touchscreens, they're not all crap. The majority of the current Pioneer and Kenwood lines are resistive, with only their upper echelon offerings being capacitive (usually the ones with in-built NAV). I've never experienced the JVC ones though, so I can't speak to how good (or bad) they are. I know I've had some really bad ones in the past, that would go out of alignment after sitting in the warm car for a while.
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Both. Most headunits boot to partial or full functionality in under 8 seconds. Android headunits that aren't in sleep mode (e.g. draining your car battery, but slowly) can take upwards of 30 seconds to boot. Some of them will offer radio output before the full boot-up is complete, but only if you leave it on that input prior to shutdown.
I liked the non-mainstream stuff too, since the cost was right (about half of the common mfgs), and the flexibility in customization was there. But after all that time, I missed the build quality, mfg support (firmware updates, etc), and sound quality of the usual suspects.
If you search for the CES 2017 articles around Android Auto/CarPlay headunits, you'll see that a number of them are being released/updated this year, and some at a reasonable price point. If I didn't already have my Pioneer, I'd probably take a good look at the JVC KW-M730BT.
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Having spent a considerable amount of time using and developing for the Chinese-made Android headunits a few years ago, I can say that they do offer some of the nicest in-car features available that most could want. Unfortunately, like it's been stated above, they're not all held to the same standards as most Japanese-made aftermarket headunits, so build quality is rather hit-or-miss, and integration can be frustrating.
Parrot had a good thing going with the Asteroid Smart, but it's been deprecated for some time, and stuck on Android 2.3 last I saw.
Long boot-up times (compared to regular headunits), odd interpretations of DIN sizing, next to nil mfg support (although the XDA crowd is quite helpful), and just overall general "cheap" feel made me go back to a Pioneer. Any of the current models with Android Auto/CarPlay support will feel more polished, which I think is a good thing in an Evora. If you wait for the next generation headunits from Pioneer/Kenwood/Alpine/Sony, they should all start offering wireless AA/CP, so then there'd be no need to tether your phone to get it to display stuff. Waze works on AA (beta version for now) and while it isn't as slick as natively running on the headunit, it works well enough and offers a nice large-button interface.
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Center console top and sides will have to be removed. I wrote up a how-to over on LT.
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ARB bushings are part # 3.
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ebay or AliExpress/Alibaba
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1) Could be an issue with your Sirius/XM tuner box. IIRC, it's a separate unit connected to the Alpine.
2) There's a reverse cam "box" between the headunit and the camera. It's located near the subwoofer, behind the side panel trim. Might be a loose connection there.
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I've never seen a cross-reference posted for the window regulators. Based on the failure rates, I doubt they're a Toyota part
You could possibly replace just the motor, assuming the cable and pulleys are in working order. Of course that means pulling yours out and figuring out what motor would work as a replacement. That's my plan if/when mine give up the ghost, and I'll be sure to post any x-ref info I stumble across.
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And the latest beta now has Android Auto support if you have a headunit that it works with.
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I have a Veepeak and it works fine with my S1 and Torque.
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I have the one from HethelSport. It's great since the stock one was too large to allow my V1 to sit above it.
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4 hours ago, Local Gardener said:
Hi all
Just had cost back to replace the Headlight £8-900 and that's just the unit not including fitting it. Does anyone know if the headlights changed from series 1 to the 400 and the part numbers
The 400s I've seen in person have the newer headlights that don't have the "Lotus" name/logo embossed in the lower corner of the turn signal. I think it's fairly hard to get the original ones with the logo brand new, so you might have to look at 2nd hand options if it matters to you.
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4 hours ago, brienchia said:
Thank you so much. What sealant would you recommend to reseal after job is complete?
Oh yeah forgot to ask, do I need to test the circuitry individually with a meter or is this a known fault with a particular joint? A photo would be really helpful here. Thanks so much
Any automotive-grade butyl sealant should work, although if you don't make a huge mess when separating the lens, you shouldn't need any. Just reheat the seam and press the lens onto the housing and the existing goo should be sufficient.
It would probably make sense to at least test the turn signal while you have the assembly apart. +12V to red, and one of the black wires is ground (the other is LED failure sensor).
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6 hours ago, brienchia said:
Is there a way to diy solder the joint? I am experienced in diy electronic soldering but would hope to learn more before having the car up and starting the job
You'll want to remove the headlight assembly, and gently heat the joint where the lens meets the housing using a hair dryer or heat gun on low. Slowly separate the lens while heating and working your way around the perimeter. Once it's off, you can remove the inner fascia/divider, and you'll see the turn signal. The cable is connected from the bottom side, so you'll have to remove the turn signal board in order to work on it. This requires a torx security bit to not only remove the turn signal assembly from the housing, but also to remove the turn signal diffuser from the pcb.
Keep in mind the turn signal pcb is aluminum-backed, in addition to an aluminum heatsink that's riveted. This means heating any of the solder pads is extremely difficult unless you have a high-temp iron, as the board and heatsink will wick away heat faster than you can apply it.
I posted some interior headlight assembly pictures here. I have my spare in pieces at the moment if you have any questions or need specific images.
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As fate would have it, I had a "need" to buy a whole headlight assembly, mostly for a less scratched lens. Found a good used one on the 'Bay, and was just going to swap it out 1:1 and then sell my original but it turns out the used one has a bad turn signal. Since I was after the lens anyhow, I opted to just swap the lens across, which leaves me with a right-side headlight assembly with a busted turn signal, a slightly scratched (but newly clear-coated!) lens, and a functioning LED disc.
Removing the lens from the housing is a fairly simple and easy process, and I think it's probably the best bet for those looking to change out the LED discs and don't feel comfortable drilling a hole in the housing. I have some pretty high res photos of the disassembly here, including interior photo of the broken turn signal board (the power connector had fallen mostly off, probably from vibration over time), and the infamous led disc.
One thing I noticed about the disc is the use of older 3528 leds, which are less efficient, and have no heatsink. I'd probably recommend swapping in 2835s, and will likely do that to this one, even though the originals are fine. I've also got the board dimensions done, and am working on the schematics now. I've never worked on a round board before, so it'll be interesting to see how it comes out.
I know Silverstone is working on this for you guys, and I have no intention of competing with that effort. I'm just doing this for my own edification, and will share whatever I can with the community.
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The service notes do make mention of early cars not even having a bushing, so it's possible the steering wheel adapter plate is different as well.
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If the battery reset doesn't fix it, it's likely a bad microswitch in your door latch. I have yet to see anyone post a good replacement for the switch itself, as most just replace the entire latch assembly.
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You can definitely add the dash button from the MY12+, but the wiring harness is different, so there isn't a connector there to plug in. I believe the MY12+ use this button to connect to the alarm module, which relays the button press to the ICM and then on to the boot release latch.
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Idk if the 400 is like the S1, but if you leave the battery disconnected for too long, you may end up with an airbag light that has to be reset by the dealer.
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It should be TSB # 2011/11 32.05.21-02
If anyone can produce the actual PDF of that TSB that would be greatly appreciated (I collect them for reference).
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Looks right. The new spacer is taller, and as such, makes the steering wheel protrude more. I have a picture of the two side-by-side on my howto. There's like a 5-7mm difference in height.
And no, there are no plugs for the T30 holes.
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I don't see how it would just fall off since they're mounted from the backside using two bolts. And even then, the top cover snaps firmly over the washer, and has to be removed in order to extract the unit.
That being said, I believe they are the same part. I don't recall any orientation-specific differences when I had my headlights out.
Exterior A pillar
in Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC/Other
Posted
Or go with some aftermarket carbon fibre ones. HKFEVER over on LT makes them, and I believe there's some on Elise-Shop as well.