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jevansio

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About jevansio

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday 07/03/1975

More Info

  • Name
    Jay Evans
  • Car
    Evora
  • Location
    Durham

Recent Profile Visitors

1,089 profile views
  1. It does bud, just over 80. I'mbbuilding up to writing an advert this week lol
  2. Hi Kieran I'm about to list my Lazer Blue NA (60) 2+0 Its got the sport & premium packs, full sound system upgrade and decat with lotus MY13 s/c exhaust, going up for £26.5 as soon as i draft the advert Drop me a PM if you're interested Cheers Jay
  3. I have just replaced the front ARB bushes on mine, cured the clunk, but the old ones had some sort of PU sealant on them????? My car was owned by Lotus for most of its life, was this a sticky plaster to get extra life out of them or a bone-fide thing to do, suffice to say I've never heard that this needs doing and stripped it all off when putting the new ones on
  4. I bought my Evora for 25k with 70k miles and if "decent" means "runs without fault and is a joy to drive every day" then its decent
  5. To confirm the MDF thickness I used was 18mm, it does push the woofer close to the quarter panel cover which i did end up trimming around the opening to ensure on loud movement the cone didn't touch it So the amplifier, my first choice was an Alpine M250 Mono Class D, Max 550W, RMS 150W (30 amp fuse) for £120 I ran a new phono lead from the headunit sub-out up the centre console. The original amp has a small patch lead (for power & speaker out), I cut the connectors from that to make my own (figuring to return to OEM either 1 small new harness/more soldering is required). The good thing about using the patch lead is you can remove it from the car to do your soldering on the bench, because even on the patch lead the cables ain't thin. The OEM amp is run on its own 20 amp circuit, I used this rather than running my own cables, I figured the power levels I'd be running would be nowhere near and the first thing to pop would be the cars 20 amp fuse, I was right it was totally fine. The amp was mounted under my new "parcel shelf" and the whole thing sounded epic. But... the amplifier itself made an awful screeching noise! After a tearing my hair out with "CarAudioCentre" about returning it, months later i got a refund. I decided at this point that amp was so overkill i went for the next one down in the range, PMX T320 Class A, Max 320W (from Dream Ice) which runs the same 150W RMS in bridged mode and is what Alpine recommend in the documents to power that subwoofer. It has a 25 amp fuse and although it needs the gain setting higher than the M250 its still only 2/3rds and is enough to send tingles through your ass when songs kick in, oh and no horrible noise from the amp too. I set my head unit subwoofer level to 10, then played some songs at the loudest volume i usually do and tuned the gain to that (ended up using the +6db bass boost option on the amp too), this means i still have headunit control to remove (or boost bass to +15) should I need it Visually in the rear there's no point showing any pics, it looks exactly the same as it did before, I left the old amplifier in place too. I reckon all in its been a £400 job and I am 100% confident it will blow the socks off any Evora owner hearing it, it still does to me every time I listen to it Hope its been of some help Jay
  6. After enjoying the 4 speaker setup for some months I decided to complete the job by upgrading the puny subwoofer/amp combo. Disconnecting the speakers and running the subwoofer alone, turned upto the max of 15, really showed how little effect it has in the car. First up is the woofer itself. Continuing on with the "Alpine" theme the only subwoofer option I could find is the Type-G SWG-844, its 8" and fits with minimal effort into the existing enclosure, its £50 (taking total spend to £300), rated at 400W Max, here it is beside the OEM woofer. It will need an MDF mount making as its slightly narrower than the original, the MDF was (TBC)mm thick. I used countersunk bolts in the existing 4 holes (red arrows - to allow the woofer to sit flush) as well as additional ones to really clamp the MDF to the plastic enclosure to prevent vibration noise, in hindsight i would also use some PU adhesive between the two as it took me a couple of attempts to get bolts in the right places to stop all vibrations when played at loud levels (I'll probably add the PU myself next time its out and spray it black too for aesthetics - even though it not visible lol) Amplifier coming very soon...
  7. I was charged 1 hr labour from Lotus Durham about 70 quid
  8. Name: Lotus Evora Click to view: Lotus Evora
  9. I cant believe how quickly he's done this TBH, he gets so much done in such small time scales, I'm pleased he's happy with it. I'll defo be watching the FJ vids
  10. Are these the ones from the uk based sa motorsports? did they do you the front lip too? it looks awesome
  11. For me in the turbo vs sc debate i would love a turbo for the noise alone, but if I ever boost my N/A i think it will be either the current S/C setup or a new 400 S/C for the reliability alone, I'd not want to turn a car that is reliable and can be used fast everyday into a temperamental race machine
  12. Got to be the a pillar trim, mine starts at 60mph and am gonna get a new one, i temporarily put some tape down the edge where it meets the window and the noise stopped
  13. Ive just fitted a set of there after mine crumbled away and really pleased with the quality and fitment, defo a DIY home job. I would advise to take special care when removing the apanel top bolts to check how many spacer washers each has (mine had 3 in total). When reassembling I found the best way to fit is to attach the top 2 bolts first getting the apanel to front clam gap correct, then fitting the bottom ones. Also a dab of copperslip as always should help future problems
  14. Its great to see him actually out in it, it looks awesome, love whats he's done visually. I still cant believe those front wheels wont bang up into the front clam on a heavy landing, maybe everywhere is flat over there lol
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